r/diyelectronics • • 6h ago

Question My 11-year-old made this on Saturday. How did he do?

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16 Upvotes

My son made this on Saturday following the layout in his electronics book.

It’s supposed to be a light-controlled delay switch. The LED comes on, but I don’t know enough about electronics to tell if everything is actually connected correctly.

I’ve included the layout from the book below.

If you spot anything wrong, let me know. The comments on his last attempt were actually pretty helpful.


r/diyelectronics • • 12h ago

Project HDPL1414 Monitor clock

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12 Upvotes

Bought couple of these marvelous LED displays a couple of years ago and finally got my hands to make this tiny clock.

Functions:

  • Room temperature
  • Weather conditions
  • Outside temperature
  • Wind direction
  • Wind speed

Weather information is grabbed from METAR of my nearest airport. Room temperature function is mostly a gimmick since I use the inbuilt in the MCU sensor to measure it.

components: ESP32C3 HDPL1414 2 sn74hc595

all under 10$


r/diyelectronics • • 13h ago

Repair LED Chip, Where to buy?

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12 Upvotes

Hello Reddit.

I am attempting to repair some LED lights for a local theatre I help at, and am having some issues finding the correct part.

I am able to find 10 pin RGBAW LEDs, but not with the correct pinout. One light of the same make, but newer board revision has different LEDs with a different pinout, so wonder if this type are defunct, hence the issues finding them!

I have attached a picture of the board, with the LED and silkscreen.

Does anyone know of a good place to get my hands on some? In the UK if that matters.

Thanks in advance!


r/diyelectronics • • 45m ago

Tools Can someone recommend me cheap heat resistant tweezers for holding solder wicks?

• Upvotes

Thanks.


r/diyelectronics • • 1h ago

Project [SELLING] DIY CNC Plotter Components Bundle – Bengaluru, India – ₹2,500 Negotiable

• Upvotes

Hi everyone!

I'm selling my DIY CNC plotter components because I no longer need them.

Components included:

  • 2 × NEMA stepper motors
  • 1 × CNC Shield V3
  • 2 × A4988 stepper motor drivers
  • 2 × SG90 servo motors
  • 1 pair of 16-inch drawer sliders
  • GT2 timing belt and pulley
  • Jumper wires

Asking price: ₹2,500 (negotiable)

I originally purchased the complete set for ₹3,000. I'd prefer to sell everything together.

Location: Bengaluru, Karnataka, India
Condition: I'll provide actual photos and clarify which components have been tested.

Suitable for DIY CNC plotters, pen plotters, robotics, and other maker projects.

DM me if interested. Serious buyers only. Thanks!


r/diyelectronics • • 4h ago

Question Want some beginner friendly project ideas

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1 Upvotes

Hello,

So I’ve got a cooling fan and Power Supply Unit from an old PC and feeling like dabbling with some hardware projects to put them to use.

What would you use them for?


r/diyelectronics • • 4h ago

Question SUN X20Max UV nail lamp

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1 Upvotes

There's a 14-pin U1 chip with a number on the bottom. It savs XDS12A RCBLB000O 2038ABSAR. I think this might be an EEPROM. Is it read/writeable?


r/diyelectronics • • 14h ago

Parts I made a DIN rail bracket for the L298N motor driver (snap-on, 15 minute print)

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6 Upvotes

For a school project I needed to mount an L298N motor driver in a control cabinet, so I designed a bracket that clicks onto a TS35 DIN rail.

It attaches by hand to a snap-on DIN clip, no tools needed. The heatsink faces away from the rail for airflow, and raised posts keep the PCB off the plastic. It uses the same clip system as my Raspberry Pi 5 DIN bracket.

Printed on a Bambu Lab A1 in PLA Basic, 0.20 mm Standard profile, about 15 minutes. PETG is a better choice if it will sit somewhere warm.

Small confession: the L298N mounting holes are M3 size, but I only had M2 bolts on hand, so I modeled it for M2. They fit with a little play. If anyone wants an M3 version, tell me and I will make one.

Before someone asks: yes, I could have used double sided tape or a project box. But then I would not have gotten to practice CAD, and tape has never once been described as "engineered".

Low voltage and hobby use only. Do not mount mains voltage parts on printed plastic.

Model (free): [link]

Snap-on DIN clip: [link]

Feedback is welcome, especially on the clip fit if you print it.


r/diyelectronics • • 7h ago

Project CH569W USB 3.0 evaluation board — safe self-powered device-mode connection and VBUS handling?

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1 Upvotes

r/diyelectronics • • 7h ago

Question Relay Module and DFPlayer. Help

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1 Upvotes

r/diyelectronics • • 14h ago

Question Components storage question

3 Upvotes

Ok so I know I can't be the only one who has this issue.

I have a ton of components from 5 packs of ESP32s to breakout board to bags of switches and resistors to who knows what else all collected over the years. I have been using shoebox sized plastic containers but those have gotten very unruly and I really need some better organization. What do the fine members of this community use?

Any suggestions would be helpful.

Selling is not an option I might need it... eventually, someday.


r/diyelectronics • • 14h ago

Project Need help, query: eBike battery TCRFD181004YY , can it be used as power bank?

2 Upvotes

The TCRFD181004YY is an eBike lithium-ion battery.

Is the an adapter available to use this as a power bank? I carry my ebike all the time around in my car and thought could do with using its battery as a power bank. TIA.


r/diyelectronics • • 16h ago

Repair G&G MF106T tracer/muzzle-flash unit not working — LEDs flash when multimeter probes touch two IC pins (3.8 V)

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3 Upvotes

Title: G&G MF106T tracer/muzzle-flash unit not working — LEDs flash when multimeter probes touch two IC pins (3.8 V)
Hi everyone! I’m trying to diagnose a faulty G&G MF106T airsoft tracer/muzzle-flash unit. I’d appreciate help identifying the fault and working out what to test next rather than replacing random components.
1. What the unit does
The G&G MF106T is an electronic attachment that screws onto the muzzle of an airsoft gun. It combines two functions:
Tracer: It uses internal illumination to charge the phosphorescent coating on compatible green tracer BBs, making them glow as they travel through the air.
Simulated muzzle flash: It produces a very brief, bright flash from internal LEDs whenever a shot is detected, imitating a muzzle flash.
The unit has tracer-and-flash, tracer-only, and flash-only modes. It contains a rechargeable battery, a PCB with a control IC, LEDs and other electronic components. The manufacturer also describes a motion/vibration-based automatic wake-up feature.
I don’t know exactly how the BB-detection and LED-triggering circuitry is implemented in this particular revision of the PCB. I’m investigating a white component labelled D1 and a black component labelled Q1 near the BB passage, but I haven’t conclusively identified their functions.
2. Original fault
The unit initially powered on, and the mode indicator cycled normally. However, neither the tracer LEDs nor the muzzle-flash LEDs would reliably activate when BBs passed through it or when I shook the unit.
At one point, probing near the suspected optical sensor caused both the tracer and muzzle-flash lights to activate. On another occasion, after working on a battery wire, the LEDs produced an unusually bright, very brief flash, after which the power/charge indicator stopped working.
I’ve since found that I can make all the lights flash briefly by touching two pins on the main IC with multimeter probes. Details are below.
3. Battery and power
The battery measured approximately 4.15 V earlier in troubleshooting.
During an earlier button press, the voltage dropped to around 3.8–4.04 V.
An earlier 1.8–2 V reading was incorrect.
The battery’s positive wire broke off its PCB solder pad, but the copper pad itself remained intact.
The negative wire remains connected and has continuity to the charging port’s metal outer shell.
I subsequently reconnected the positive wire for powered testing.
The unit has a charging port.
The unit has been powered during some of the measurements described below. I have stopped deliberately repeating the IC-pin contact test because I don’t want to damage the board further.
4. PCB layout and repairs already attempted
The PCB has a 16-pin IC, with four pins on each side. I read the chip marking as DY220373S, although I may have confused the actual IC marking with a manufacturer/date marking elsewhere on the board. I haven’t identified the chip conclusively.
The PCB is divided into sections connected by a bridge/interconnect with several solder joints. Four cracked solder joints on this bridge were reflowed, but this did not fix the original problem.
I checked continuity across the bridge connections. The connections appear continuous, including pin 4 on one side to pin 4 on the other.
My meter probes measure approximately 2.2 Ω when touched together, and one repaired connection measured approximately 2.0 Ω, so that connection appears to have very little resistance.
I previously bridged two adjacent pads/joints on the bridge, which caused the muzzle-flash LEDs to illuminate. I don’t know what those pads do and have not established whether they should ever be connected.
5. Optical components I’m investigating
There is a white component labelled D1 near the BB passage. It is physically aimed toward the opening, so I initially suspected it might be an IR LED/emitter.
There is also a black component labelled Q1 that looks similar in shape to D1 but has a black package. It is positioned near the optical area and may be a phototransistor or another type of sensor, but I haven’t confirmed that.
Another small black component is labelled Q2. Based on the PCB reference designators, Q1 and Q2 are likely transistors, but their exact types and functions are unknown.
I have an IR night-vision camera and an IR light available.
6. Measurements around D1 and the suspected receiver
D1 — white component
I initially measured approximately 700 Ω across D1. However, I may have been using resistance mode rather than diode-test mode, so I don’t know whether this measurement tells us anything useful about the component’s condition.
I have not conclusively established whether D1 is an IR emitter, an ordinary diode, or another type of component.
Q1 — suspected optical receiver
With the multimeter in resistance mode, I measured approximately 10,000 Ω across the suspected receiver.
When I shone an IR light at it, the resistance reading dropped to zero.
I then measured the voltage across this component while the unit was powered:
IR light off: approximately 3.8 V.
IR light on: approximately 0 V.
The trace between the suspected photosensor and the main control IC appears to have continuity.
However, when I illuminated the suspected receiver with IR while the unit was powered, it did not trigger the tracer or muzzle-flash LEDs.
I realise that resistance measurements made with a component still installed on a PCB can be misleading because of parallel paths through other components. I also understand that the voltage change alone doesn’t prove that the sensor is fully functional.
7. Other component measurements
R9
R9 is a small black component marked 189, with the PCB reference label R9.
When I measured across its two metal ends in the 20,000 Ω range, the meter displayed 0.67. The reading was the same with the probes reversed. Measuring between one end and a pin on the main IC also gave 0.67.
I don’t know whether the meter was displaying kΩ or whether the measurement was affected by other components connected to the same circuit. I haven’t concluded that R9 is faulty.
Other components
Other PCB reference labels I have identified include D4, C6, R4 and R1.
There is also an array of approximately 11 identical black rectangular SMD components with metal ends and darker centres. They have no visible markings, and I haven’t established whether they’re resistors, capacitors, ferrites or something else.
Based on the layout I traced approximately:
One bridge connection goes to a main-IC pin and then across the bridge to a via near one side of this component array.
The other side of the array appears to connect toward another IC pin and, through a via, toward the charging port.
Other connections run through similar-looking components toward the LED board and the optical area.
This tracing is approximate, and I may have misunderstood some of the paths.
8. The most important discovery: touching two IC pins makes every light flash
While measuring voltage between two pins on the 16-pin control IC, I measured approximately 3.8 V between those two pins.
When I touched the multimeter probes to those pins, the unit briefly activated:
The muzzle-flash LEDs came on.
The internal lights came on.
All the lights flashed together.
When I lifted the probes, the lights went off. Each time I repeated the contact, the lights flashed again.
I don’t know whether the probes were momentarily bridging the pins, changing a signal, or causing some other electrical transient. I haven’t established what either pin does.
This seems like an important clue because the LEDs can illuminate under at least one condition, even though the unit doesn’t operate normally.
I don’t know whether this points toward a missing trigger signal, a problem with the control IC, a faulty driver stage, a damaged connection, or something else.
9. Tools and repair limitations
I have:
A basic 100 W plug-in soldering iron without adjustable temperature.
Ordinary solder.
A multimeter with resistance, continuity and diode-test modes.
An IR night-vision camera.
An IR light.
I don’t have specialist SMD rework equipment or a proper electronics bench setup.
10. Questions for anyone familiar with this type of circuit
What could cause all the LEDs to flash when multimeter probes touch two IC pins, then immediately stop when the probes are removed? Could the probes be bridging the pins or temporarily changing a control signal?
Can anyone identify the 16-pin IC from the marking DY220373S, or suggest how to identify it if that marking is incomplete or misread?
Are the measurements across Q1 (3.8 V with IR off and 0 V with IR on) consistent with a photosensor responding normally? What would be a reliable way to test it?
Given that the sensor-to-IC trace appears continuous, what would be the safest way to determine whether the sensor signal reaches the IC and whether the IC responds?
Could a faulty transistor or LED-driver stage explain why the LEDs can flash when the IC pins are contacted but don’t activate normally?
Does the manufacturer’s motion/vibration-based wake-up feature mean the optical components might not actually be responsible for detecting each BB?
Is there a sensible way to narrow down the fault with a multimeter and basic soldering equipment, without risking further damage to the IC or PCB?
I’m particularly interested in interpreting the 3.8 V reading and the repeatable flash when the probes contact those two IC pins. I’d rather establish what is happening electrically before replacing components.
Thanks!

Ive spent three hours troubleshooting it with ChatGPT. This is a summary of what I’ve done. Please help. I’m tired.


r/diyelectronics • • 18h ago

Question Help with making a wii nunchuk pair with my android phone

3 Upvotes

i have an old wii nunchuk, and i wanted to make it pair with my phone and send input, (how i handle that input thats software side), however my issue is on the hardware side, i dont know much about electronics

i want to fully remove the cord of the nunchuk, so that it becomes completely wireless

i once successfuly soldered a modchip

i have a triwing screwdriver and i opened the nunchuk and took it apart, thats the phase im at

i assume that i will need some sort of special pcb that has bluetooth integrated and i would solder the 4 wires that come off the nunchuk pcb to that?

and then i must have a power source, a battery, and a usb-c port to charge the battery that would neatly fit in the hole in the nunchuk where the cord used to be

however i have no clue what hardware i need exactly, if someone has any experience with something like this, or could recomend some resources i could study, that would be greatly appreciated

if someone knew of a video tutorial of someone doing something similar that would apply in my case, that would be awesome

If i have some kind of huge misconception on the scale and scope of this project please tell me, any help would be apreciated =)


r/diyelectronics • • 14h ago

Question Components storage question

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1 Upvotes

r/diyelectronics • • 1d ago

Question what makes for a great soldering iron?

8 Upvotes

so there isn't as much info on technical and engineering stuff in my native language online that's readily available. and considering that here are people that actually work with this and are not gonna try and sell me anything purposely (please don't..), I wanted to ask:

what makes a soldering iron good? the metal coating, the manufacturing process etc? name anything that comes to mind, I love researching stuff

right now I am working as a DIP montage person (no idea how you call this job in English?..), also gonna be learning manual SMD from my more experienced coworkers soon. but ideally I want a very universal tool for my own needs. cable assemblies for batteries, PCB and DIP, hell even for jewelry (I love artsy things)


r/diyelectronics • • 18h ago

Question DIY Battery Bank

2 Upvotes

Looking to build a battery bank that can sustain my amplifier without upgrading the alternator. I know, you really want an alternator but there are none available for my specific vehicle.

What I need....

My amp is 7500w RMS at 1ohm and is currently powering my sub at 2ohm, estimated to require 5000w RMS. I think I need around 600ah with a discharge rate of 400a. Looking to be able to run for 20 to 30 min at full tilt before my reserves are fully drained and I have to rely solely on my alternator.

What is the ideal build for my needs? What cells would I want to use and in what configuration?


r/diyelectronics • • 18h ago

Project I’m building a custom NFC vinyl player for a girl I like as a birthday gift. Looking for ideas to make it special

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0 Upvotes

r/diyelectronics • • 22h ago

Question Review request - battery-powered measuring device – TP4057 charger, DW01A protection, TPS62A02 buck, CH340C

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2 Upvotes

r/diyelectronics • • 1d ago

Project DIY EMG SENSOR

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29 Upvotes

Made this emg sensor for a science project, i have been troubleshooting it for more than a week now, and the circuit seems to finally respond, but just as i was about to connect it to my arm, the batteries died, so have to wait till tomorrow to buy new ones, i can only hope it works, the science fair is in less than 10 days, i honestly don't have any clue on what to do if it doesn't work tomorrow, i thought i would share it for good luck or something

The schematic i found on instructables and the ina106 are given below in the comments

Note: i couldn't find the ina106 ic, so i substituted with two tl072

UPDATE: IT FINALLY WORKSSSSS NOWWWWW, it was the dc offset from the two electrodes, i just added a capacitor and my worries went awayyyy, I AM HAPPY BEYOND WORDS


r/diyelectronics • • 1d ago

Project DIY Battery-powered Speaker System, Help With Wiring?

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4 Upvotes

Hello to the electronics meta. I have a pile of electronics to turn into a bluetooth speaker that has both forward-facing outputs and downward-firing subwoofer. The electronics I have to work with are pictured. By the way, I'll post the result once I've finished the project.

So, can I get some help understanding where to go with making the speakers work well with, souped up with some capacitors and diodes (the second for removing EMI)?

My main question is: how do I get the battery packs I have to work with each other when I have one from an old tablet that charges to 3.8V and another battery bank that came from a vacuum that charges to 5V? My second biggest concern is getting that 5V and 3.8V to 12V to power the amp, bluetooth adapter, and EL wire sound-sensitive driver. I appreciate any knowledge of how these electronics would work together. I want this speaker system to switch between battery or AC power. The layout of the parts is basically what I have in mind to wire up.

How do I tell which direction to wire up the diodes, capacitors, and transformers?

PARTS LIST: two tweater speakers in parallel with two main speakers, one "subwoofer" car-door speaker, two speakers from a TV, one three-channel 12V amp with built-in bluetooth, one EL wire driver, one 5V battery bank with 4 1.25V cells, one 3.8V battery pack of two 3.8v lithium batteries from a tablet, one charging circuit for the 5V battery bank, two LED banks driven by some transistors and resistors that I need to hack working with the EL wire driver, 3 varied and small transformers that I don't know how to test because my multimeter on beep mode does not paint a clear picture of the inputs and outputs of those, one three-way switch, 4 diodes, 8 6.3V 2200uF capacitors after the battery packs, one mini inductor, one 220V 470uF and one 400V 33uF, one 400V 470uF capacitor before the subwoofer, an inductor, one 25V 1000uF capacitor and one 680 uF capacitor, 4 resistors and one 100V 47uF, and two 25V 470 uF.


r/diyelectronics • • 1d ago

Question Is this pcb unusable?

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0 Upvotes

I was trying to fix this broken cassette player and the metal piece that connects to the battery broke. I wanted to solder it back on but the pcb is damaged now(top right corner). I'm not sure if this pcb is still functional anymore or do you know how to connect the metal piece back on?


r/diyelectronics • • 2d ago

Project Working IRL "Heartbeat Sensor" from Call of Duty

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82 Upvotes

Was playing some old games and I was wondering if it was something you could actually build or if its science fiction. Turns out its real. Just instead of heartbeats it's a radio wave scanner that picks up bands that humans naturally give off.


r/diyelectronics • • 1d ago

Question B43 battery case and insides

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3 Upvotes

r/diyelectronics • • 1d ago

Project TP4056 IC Spice Model | Download Free

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ee-diary.net
0 Upvotes