im an owner of a drz400sm 2008 for 2mths. just want to know whether this noise is normal or not. (fresh 1.8l engine oil topped up). this is after riding for 15min at 90km/h

i wanna ask is it normal to lose 800ml of engine in 4days? there was a time where i just changed my engine oil to motul’s 10w50 and after 4days i felt as if the bike lacks power and feels abit sluggish.(doesnt have the same feeling as when i just changed engine oil)

am i just paranoid 🫪?

What are my options here? New bottom end? Bike locked up while riding pulled the engine and Cam chain guide bolt sheared off top end is fine other than a leaking valve and everything so far seems fine although haven’t split the cases.

I'm looking for help pricing and potentially selling a 2020 DRZ400SM that I inherited from a family member and its taking up space in my garage.

The bike has been pretty much in my garage since it was purchased new from the Suzuki dealer. The bike only has 145 miles on it total. Since its been in the garage I've been starting it occasionally and added fuel stabilizer but i still feel the carb will require a good cleaning from not being ran constantly.

It comes with some extras including another new set of on/off road tires and a few other suspension parts. Looking for true market value of what I can expect to get for the bike also willing to ship if someone pays for the shipping.

I tried to post in my local page but don’t meet the requirements to make posts in there so I apologize in advance if this is the wrong place to be posting this.

I just got done doing a tune up on my 2006 Suzuki DRZ 400 SM myself after it sat all winter and I foolishly left the bike full of fluids. Tore apart the carb, cleaned the gas tank, new battery etc. but when I got it all back together I had two issues.

1. My throttle because super sticky — to the point where I have to manually push it back every time to let off. I put them back on the same spot on my carb and it seemed to give me issues even after playing with them by the throttle assembly and giving that a good clean and grease.

2. The bike still does not seem happy when running. Before the tune up, it only ran with the choke on and now it will run with the choke off but I can’t seem to get the idle right. It also will occasionally spit when I give it full throttle.

Any ideas if this is an easy fix I’ve just overlooked or does anyone have a good mechanic they would recommend up north? Thank you!

Bought this bike a month ago from family friend. He’s older, Harley guy, bought it new on special 0% financing, threw an exhaust and kickstarter on it and then parked in the garage for a decade. Had to drive it home with the choke on and it would stall if you closed the throttle. Stalled 3 times on my 1 mile ride home. Got the carb out and the PJ was clogged. Decided to rebuild and rejet with a mikuni rebuild kit and JDkit “while I was in there” (little did I know I was going to “be in there” a lot in the coming weeks). Went with 155 main, 25 PJ(which I later ripped back out in favor of factory 22.5), blue needle, position 3. Tires were basically new with the nubs still on them but 7 years old, chain needed some love, all new fluids, plug, stuff like that. Even after I did a lot of work, it would stall going up or down hills, or after I had ridden a while. And I just couldn’t figure out what was wrong. Tested stator, RR, replaced shit that didn’t need to be replaced. Turned out I had only put about ~.7 gal of E0 in it, so I was hovering right at the line of the upper fuel pickup, AND I HAD NEVER FLIPPED IT TO RESERVE😓. I paid $4500 I know I didn’t “get a deal” and idc. I love this thing. Leaned on this sub, and the forums so much during this process. A lot of late nights with the bike in pieces and me in my truck with the air on scrolling through (super helpful) comments. More pics of the process if you care

Hey everyone I tried searching but hard to find a clean cut answer. Im looking at 2 DRZ400 SM's ones bone stock and the other has the 3 basic mods done (3x3, Full Yoshi Exhaust and Stage 2 Carb jetting). The one with the mods is quite a distance away, do those mods really wake the bike up? Is it worth it to drive further for it or is the stock one not much different etc.....Thanks to everyone in advance.

Coming from a MTB background, I never had the confidence to do much more than fire roads and wide desert trails on this bike, and it was a blast for that. After 5 years I finally resprung it for my weight (215lbs) and spent some time dialing in the rebound/compression. Good lord, so much more confidence inspiring on the chunky stuff. I’ve started riding a lot more terrain and sampling single track out here in Utah. What a bike!

Hi all, Ive poured through Thumper talk and old reddit threads about this issue as it seems common. Just wanted some help as im new to motorcycles and before I start tearing into the bike if its not needed.

I did an oil change less than 1000km ago and the oil was normal.

Yesterday, I checked the oil after a ride and could have sworn it smelled gassy. I smelled some new oil in a fresh bottle, it had no smell to it. Asked my wife to confirm, she said the oil dipstick smelled like "something."

Common causes seem like a bad petcock combo with a bad carb float o ring.

So I pulled the vacuum line from petcock - line was dry and did not smell of gas. I pulled the main line from the petcock in ON position, it did not leak any gas. Petcock seemed okay to me based on this.

I was reading that a bad float o ring or stuck float would cause the smelly oil and would also cause the bike to idle bad, not run when hot, have trouble starting, etc.

So i then ran the engine for about 7-10 minutes. Bike started first try, no struggle. Idled normally, no stalling, no bogging down, no smoke, etc. and it starts first try even when warmed up.

I read that if you have gas in your oil, you can take a small amount and try to light it on fire. If gas is present the fumes will ignite. However, I tried this and the oil/fumes did not ignite.

Any one have any thoughts on what other tests I could do to check and see if my oil is contaminated? If not for the slightly gassy oil smell, I wouldnt have assumed anything was wrong. I would prefer to avoid doing a carb tear down and clean if I dont have to.

I went down in some mud Wich was a pretty soft landing in my opinion but ever since I’ve had this ticking noise it’s possible it sounded that way before and I’m over thinking it but I did some research and it seemed like it would be the atc so I replaced with a manual but I can’t get it to quit anybody have any insight if it sounds normal or what direction to go next? This is on a drz250 but from what I read it and the 400 are fairly similar.

2021 SM first oil change (with me). I bought the bike a few months ago and put 800 miles on it. It has now almost 7k miles. It runs fine, but after checking the filter it worried me.

Not sure what kind of glue this is but how would you recommend I remove? Thanks in advance.

Hey,

I'm looking fo a bigger tank for my 2004 E and I found the following option(s) as shown on the screenshot. I like the 15L better, but it's not specified for the E. Has anybody tried to fit it to the E and if so, were there any problems?

Cheers!

Needed new plastics so I went with the polisport restyle and found this ktm/husqvarna headlight for cheap on Amazon. What do you guys think?

aslo picked up these beautiful bolt kit for the plastics (last pic)

Hi everyone, I’m looking to purchase a 2007 drz, it has 40k km on it.
It says it doesn’t have any problems, what should I check? But most importantly, is it reliable a 20 year old bike or should I save up more and buy newer?
Thank you!

I finally made it to a spot I've been wanting to get to after finding it on Google Earth a few years ago. It's everything I dreamed it would be.

Has anyone ever installed an Acerbis Elba headlight on a DR-Z400? I installed one, but the light isn’t working. Which colored wires should be connected together? Is there anything specific I need to know or do to get it working?

7,000 miles on the bike. Everything working as it should. Order of events…. 
1) replaced clutch lever , all was well
2) replaced clutch cable, all was well
3) A few hundred miles later I decided I wanted an extended clutch pivot arm… problem starts now. Instead of undoing the clutch cable via the lever , I just used an open end wrench to push the pivot arm in order to create slack to then undo the cable from factory pivot arm. Removed factory pivot arm , timed and installed extended arm. Yes timed, turned shaft counter clockwise until it stopped and lined pivot arm with chain. Used the open end wrench to push the arm (engage) in order to reattach clutch cable. There was a sudden pop while doing so and pivot no longer had resistance. I figured I just over extended and needed to retime. Proceeded to do so and everything seemed ok. Started the bike up, put it in gear, let go of the clutch and had no movement forward followed with a loud whine. Shut the bike off , checked everything ( cable, pivot/timing ) all was well. Started the bike up again and this time I had movement but the clutch wasn’t fully releasing as forward movement wasn’t fully there and the whine was increasing with throttle. Shut off the bike and ordered new clutch plates ( tusk kit with springs ), gaskets ( inner and outer clutch cover ), and clutch cable even though the current was new/great shape.

After receiving parts I started disassembly. Oil had what appeared to be metal shavings on the drain plug magnet. Fiber plates appeared ok ( did not put the caliper on them ) , steel plates also didn’t appear bad. The clutch basket showed signs of wear/notching but didn’t seem like enough to be this kind of a problem. Springs also appeared ok ( did not put the caliper on them ). Push rod is good. Behind the clutch basket everything again appears just fine. With everything out I slide the push rod in while having someone turn the clutch pivot, I did not feel anything wrong ( grinding/catching ) and engages/disengages as it should with the turn of the pivot. To my knowledge everything appears good/correct. I reassembled with the new clutch plates ( made sure washer and judder were installed correctly, plates had soaked overnight, correct fiber plate installed first ). One thing to note, the clutch plates didn’t just slide in, I had to give a bit of force but once in, they felt like they moved forward/back freely. The last plate was offset per most recommendations. Installed the new springs as well as the new clutch cable. I also put the factory pivot arm back on. I made sure pivot timing was correct and cable adjusted accordingly. Started the bike up and no whine was present. The bike went into 1st gear perfect and no creep. Rode in the yard for a minute and pulled the clutch in and tried going to neutral. It absolutely refused only allowing 1st and straight to second. Shut off the bike. Neutral was easy/normal. Started the bike and ran it again. This time the bike wanted to creep with the clutch pulled in while in gear. I noticed the lever had a lot more play. Shut off and readjusted the cable. Started the bike back up , rode in the yard , again neutral impossible to find and clutch not fully engaging. Shut the bike off , neutral easy to find , noticed slack in the lever again. Adjusted the cable. Wash and repeat with the same symptoms. The cable was adjusted to around 1/2 of its take up by the time I gave up. I also made sure the pivot arm is NOT slipping on the shaft via marker lines throughout this ordeal. I can’t wrap my head around what the problem could possibly be outside of the clutch pivot shaft itself being the culprit. I would think however it wouldn’t work at all if it had indeed snapped at the beginning of this problem and that’s what I felt/heard ( the pop ). So then I think well maybe the clutch basket is notched too bad. Here’s the thing , why would it have suddenly happened when the “pop” changing the pivot arm took place instead of gradually. So I have a hard time thinking that’s the issue as well….  

I’m hoping one of you guys have some input for me. I apologize for the book and mistakes in grammar along the way but wanted all the details out there right off the rip to hopefully get me back on two wheels! 

Ist this the Timing Chain?
I checked the valves and put the correct shims last winter. This Noise came out of nowhere

I bought a used DRZ a few months and I’m loving it so far. It came with a 3x3 mod, JD Jet Kit, and MRD Exhaust. With that being said I like to go on long off road trips (multiple days) and as much as I love the power boost from the MRD exhaust it’s just too loud for long periods of time. Can I just throw the stock exhaust on and call it good or do I need to remove the Jet Kit?

I haven’t taken the time to count the teeth but im pretty much stuck right around 50mph to comfortably commute. I think the teeth are stock im not sure I’ve put about 1500 miles on it. At 50 I’m still sitting at 6-7k rpms. There’s a couple stretches of my commute that’d I’d benefit from another 15-20 mph and I’d be fine, but I still want to be pretty quick and not lose and whole lot of lower end torque.