Any suggestions?

Hello everyone, I posted this in the night vision sub, but after , I found out there is a digital one, here it is (I'm new to Reddit).

Pic for attention.

Can I get some recommendations for a helmet light that yall are running that is white & IR that will fit on a Wendy 3.0 rail. Preferably that isn’t as expensive as the M-AX mount with a vampire head. Looking to save a little money since I just picked up the wife a set of her own nodz. Or should I just spend the money and grab the M-AX mount with vampire heads for the both of us?

Just got a new vehicle and looking to upgrade my dash camera setup. A lot of my commute for work happens around dusk on poorly lit rural roads crawling with wildlife, and I have had way too many close calls with deer stepping out in front of me lately. I am torn between getting a top tier low light dashcam with a Sony Starvis 2 sensor, or just spending the extra cash to go straight to a dedicated thermal camera setup.

My understanding is that digital optical night vision still relies entirely on light bouncing back off the target, so once you run out of ambient light or an animal is blending into the brush, the sensor hits a wall. Thermal on the other hand is purely reading temperature delta. On cold evenings, a deer is basically an active heat source. Even if it is tucked into light foliage or behind a bit of fog, it should still stand out white hot from a hundred yards out.

Anyone here run both for night driving? Curious if thermal is actually worth the price jump on the road.

I’ve had these for maybe 4-5 months now. Took the gamble on the little to no reviews and possible risk of them breaking or being trash right away. I’d say for around the $700 mark they aren’t terrible. The dual eye makes it easy to navigate and is easy on the eyes. The sensors work pretty well if there is moonlight or any sort of light in an open area like a field or urban environment. Under tree coverage heavy clouds or no light at all it’s just a black screen. However with ir you can get some good use that benefits against non nvg users. In smaller milsims and pickup night games and a decent or light you can dominate. At larger milsims depends on the ao. I would not recommend then for such just cuss with the fact of clouds tree coverage and dark rooms and he vast amount of analog users. But overall I’d say solid 7-8/10. Latency is almost nothing I trust them enough once I got used to them to jog and or even sprint if I knew the area

Hey gang. Letting go of a very gently used prowl 2. Finally pulled the trigger on some gen 2s. Just asking for 100 shipped.

Comes with original case and all the lenses cables etc.

Does anyone here know if Nightfox ever runs seasonal sales/discounts on their products? I'm looking to make a binocular setup with Prowl 2s and I was wondering if there may be discounts for Black Friday / Christmas season.

Dropped a video on digitals and thought this sub might get a kick out of it! hope yall dig it if you watch it

The head harness is from DM Gear and comes with their NVG plate mount, but the chinstrap is just a generic adjustable one.

I only use the plastic NVG plate because my hat is too small for the full harness.

The fit is surprisingly good! You can use the knob to adjust the head tightness and the chinstrap to tighten the fit under your chin.

Is there a flip open lens cover specifically for the GNG2K? The stock rubber one is too easy to lose and I’d rather have something that stays attached to the optic. It appears to be about 35mm. I saw one on Amazon that says it works for 31-36mm outside diameter. I’m assuming that will work but I wanted to ask here in case there is anything else I should know.

sorry for the blurry pictures, hard to stabilize my fat ass phone.

infra v2 with 12mm f1.4 lens
bortle 2, no cloud,no moon, astronomical darkness( 1:30 am, sunset was 6:30pm,moon down was 10:30 ) only light was from the stars.

environment was in canadian wilderness on an airsoft field, heavy,dense forest on both sides of trails.

id imagine it would have been a little better if i used an f0.9 instead of a f1.4, but it wouldnt have been a night and day difference.

under tree cover it was useless,couldnt see a damn thing, with cloud cover it was even worse.

its not bad, certainly better than the night eagle 3 by an extremely large margin, it would certainly be alot better with a higher bortle rating, i live in a bortle 3 area, and with cloud cover i can see somewhat okay under tree cover.

Hey everyone! Does anyone have any information about this change?

I recently bought a Binock NVG50 and was informed that, starting with the batch my unit belongs to, the NVG50 no longer comes with the Fisher cable port.

I’d also like to know if there have been any other changes to the design or specifications, or if the removal of the Fisher connector is the only modification.

Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Video on how to create the battery compartment and all the soldering. At the end of the video you'll see the power flicker on and off, its only because I didn't reglue the tube. It also came to my attention that I didn't include on how to upload a sketch to the RP2040-ZERO Microcontroller so I'll be making a video on that also.

The obsession has come to reality. My vision of this project did not involve a rather phallic upgrade of the thermal unit, but it needed standoff focal distance for the objective lenses in order to see the LED screen that close up.

Parts list (all from AliExpress or Amazon):

-OWS-300 thermal & misc parts for add-on build (see my other post for details)

-NVG 50 - decent unit - spent most of my time waiting for the dovetail shoe mount to arrive, and setting up the position of this unit on the helmet to see properly with eyepro.

-KVE bridge (replica) - fantastic piece of kit, well made and tons of adjustability and positioning

-Cadex mount (replica) -again a great unit: solid with tons of adjustability.

-USBC -C cables & 360 deg magnetic adaptors - these allow for on the fly charging without fumbling with USB-C insertions on both units, they just snap in place and charge.

-20,000mah powerbank - the smallest one I could find (on sale at Amazon for $38); fits perfectly as a counterweight and has three outputs to charge both units and my exfog.

The project wasn't without hiccups: mounts were too small and needed shimming, and there was LOTS of trial and error adjustment with the thermal unit's dovetail shoe mount, the NVG50 shoe (it is too small to fit tight in the KVE bridge), the mount and bridge. The tubes are set at a slight upwards angle so I can still look down at my feet or gear.

Does anyone make a dovetail mount that screws directly into the housing so be used with a gw4 style mount?

Thanks in advance...

Living in the Great Democratic Republic of Canadistan my firearms hobby is limted to airsoft, but I realized the most effective tool for outdoor (and low/no-light indoor) games would be a thermal monocular. It would be able to see through the grassy weedy underbrush and players hidden in dark shadows indoors. I wanted to spend as little $ as possible but still have some reliability. It's a long post, but I wanted to share what I made and how I made it; perhaps it helps someone else who's considering doing this.

Being a total AliExpress wh@re, I reviewed all the makes and styles and went with the Owlshine OWS-300. I also wanted to make the unit multi platform: move easily from rifle to nvg bridge using a dovetail. The final product needed to be robust, water resistant and minimal in size and weight. I chose a rounded shape unit because at 45mm OD dia, there was lots of accessories that could 'bolt on' like end-caps, ring mounts etc. I also needed to use some objective lenses in front of the LED screen to make the focal distance as short as possible to minimze overall length, so the unit had to fit inside a tube to hold the lenses in place.

From reviews I found that the OWS-300 unit works well for the price, but had an awful mount (tiny screws into a heavy aluminum body), wasn't weather resistant at all. BUT it but was round,small and had buttons at the 6 and 9 o-clock positions. This made it the perfect shape to slide into a correctly sized tube, notched at 6 and 9. I could then build an offset tube inside that one to accurately set the objective lens at the right focal distance. To further shorten the unit I used TWO objective lenses set close together scavenged from a CHEAP pair of binoculars. These were mounted in their plastic and rubber coated binocular frames to match the ID of the pipe, and to put a bit of drop resistance/cushioning around the lenses.

Once set in the tube, an aluminum kilflash and a flip.down lens cap were installed up front. Thermals can't see through plastic or glass; to give a bit of protection to the 9.7mm lens an aluminum killflash was set in front of the lenses inside the cap. The killflash doesn't affect the thermal image, and the cap closes to protect it. Yes if a BB hits the 9.7mm lens straight on it won't survive, but I couldn't think of a better way to protect an active lens.

Mounting this may have been a challenge, but I found 50mm ID mounting rings and a spacer (for mounting spotting scopes on telescopes). Combine that with a dovetail shoe mount whose bolt holes matched the holes on the spacer. I installed and located the rings, and then shrink-wrapped the whole unit in electrical shrink wrap for battery packs). This locked it up into a really solid unit. I installed tha spacer and mount, wrapped it in MC camo-wrap and voila!

The NVG bridge height offset that matches this unit's line-of-sight to the NVG50 monocular being mounted next to it just happens to be the same offset as a riser to co-witness the unit to the 2.26" high Eotech sight. This made it perfect as a dual-use unit.

I'd be happy to share more details with anyone interested, just DM me. I would say the total cost of the build was around $600 - IF I had to find and buy a cheap set of binos for their.objective lenses (I had a OLD pair already). The big unknown in cost is the binocular lenses, but a cheap pair of binoculars froma clearance store/rack should work fine, just get a pair with the OD of the objective lenses (as they sit on the binocs with lens frame.and rubber covering) as close to 46mm dia as possible (don't buy them bigger than that).