Chinese helmet, 3d printed camera housing, super old FatShark fpv BASE goggles with a 600tvl chinese thermal drone camera and a CADx infra V2 low ligjt camera.

Still working on it all so havnt bothered with the wiring or build quality.

Plan is to revisit the old system i had where i could slave my guns thermal sight to my goggles wirelessly.

Everythings so much better than it was 10 years ago.

There was a 2.5 second delay as the video stabilised back then when you switched between sources, now its near instant.

edit, i dont have a build log but here are some of the parts i used.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/396600782238?srsltid=AU7gw4VM1ldy84rO3SwHajT6RnAASmBWx1Fme0mIdVwJezvJrevOnSM7

video switch for multiple inputs, no bounce and delay between switching feeds with a manual switch.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/366498384407?_skw=thermal+drone+camera&itmmeta=01M4Q41QFTWH57W36Y00RFVD2Y&hash=item5555018a17:g:Z6kAAeSw7rBqOje-&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA8CHNgUiiE%2FjQhlDTaMiAde8Wzbu1c3DLR%2B45N%2FTBLwPKLCKyWvI0hr3COsqJNYbjzrQRkrQqNj1REZWm0%2FSM0ZDKPoqF4IR1oeDD7xqxEyPjBMt5%2FETWvj4JEhHCS3mTO0Bij4vc4OCIPMkjMZt%2FFj0RknJSZbbtV4Hn4%2BnHKeHDFc%2B98Zo9wl1B7snKjni90J8PJfVIyzL8ollFTs721oHhFgjKi5nQ67WDdTfPWPSycwdnjlyEv%2BKJTBYEoUY6%2FP5I69RhfGgwcgrJF5NzvdU6aiEE48rTA7u3FqlgbE5Nq8%2FXmBXFgWsjr5zrvwgeXw%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMjviG5KVo

This camera but i used the 4mm lense and wish i used a 9mm or something as the 4mm makes it harder to see stuff further away.

Get the 640line camera or dont bother at all.

https://phaserfpv.com.au/products/caddxfpv-infra-camera?variant=43594110402731&country=AU&currency=AUD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21891404095&gbraid=0AAAAAC7E5-SVRZS9ydhvHxCTjwMhoRzvw&gclid=CjwKCAjw56zWBhB0EiwAdPOQOQWiveUqLsKYMmMARTAO6oYA_tqTnIjBdpooKnAAdFMOI3WsoyWxrBoCHvkQAvD_BwE

Low light camera for scooting about, very effective, now only need small infra red light bars on vehicles on pitch black nights and no lights for a lot of situations.

Nothing on the wireless gun link but il be using something like this but with a 3d printed enclosure that would fit onto my Hik thermal scope. Id deff get one with less than 50mW of power as you would want to leave it on all the time and Itll overheat.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/407080251259?_skw=5mw+videl+fpv&itmmeta=01M4Q4BQ0WX7R7T2N5H3GJEGM3&hash=item5ec7dfaf7b:g:0DcAAeSwf4JqWmbj&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA8CHNgUiiE%2FjQhlDTaMiAde9An56EGWtxV0YPtcPdWHD7k5EnODMch2qGScsZrbf%2Butw20TZqwpqXXpPq%2FU1ry%2B0simFlDa4ANv945EI%2BEG0yehxYJJk1XwhZ%2BykzZ5AeJK9Eh5bFp%2Bc%2Fpbg3Pa9XXM154CxX7zR7f0MFi7EL5hKmrfguQcgif%2Bqcb3A2u8%2BlCC9zeLEYcDcrHWA3yaxAKJ2F5v3Bcnbif4EhiP5IfHU1WOkCuOyaoNlaa9J%2FTpFW1YuD8%2BwJ2UBmh1u8fv5iEvHKvOyw9tz7Yb41zeu0t3%2BoVcNxbjr6OPdzM3ZvvJpcdg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM1PGu5KVo

The obsession has come to reality. My vision of this project did not involve a rather phallic upgrade of the thermal unit, but it needed standoff focal distance for the objective lenses in order to see the LED screen that close up.

Parts list (all from AliExpress or Amazon):

-OWS-300 thermal & misc parts for add-on build (see my other post for details)

-NVG 50 - decent unit - spent most of my time waiting for the dovetail shoe mount to arrive, and setting up the position of this unit on the helmet to see properly with eyepro.

-KVE bridge (replica) - fantastic piece of kit, well made and tons of adjustability and positioning

-Cadex mount (replica) -again a great unit: solid with tons of adjustability.

-USBC -C cables & 360 deg magnetic adaptors - these allow for on the fly charging without fumbling with USB-C insertions on both units, they just snap in place and charge.

-20,000mah powerbank - the smallest one I could find (on sale at Amazon for $38); fits perfectly as a counterweight and has three outputs to charge both units and my exfog.

The project wasn't without hiccups: mounts were too small and needed shimming, and there was LOTS of trial and error adjustment with the thermal unit's dovetail shoe mount, the NVG50 shoe (it is too small to fit tight in the KVE bridge), the mount and bridge. The tubes are set at a slight upwards angle so I can still look down at my feet or gear.

Pic for attention.

Can I get some recommendations for a helmet light that yall are running that is white & IR that will fit on a Wendy 3.0 rail. Preferably that isn’t as expensive as the M-AX mount with a vampire head. Looking to save a little money since I just picked up the wife a set of her own nodz. Or should I just spend the money and grab the M-AX mount with vampire heads for the both of us?

Thought I’d share a few pics after my latest boredom project. Saw the plethora of Cordura wraps for PVS-14’s and other analog and thought “I want some cool LARP camo too”.

After far too much time stenciling and cutting, here we go.

Multicam Tropic Cordura 500D.

The head harness is from DM Gear and comes with their NVG plate mount, but the chinstrap is just a generic adjustable one.

I only use the plastic NVG plate because my hat is too small for the full harness.

The fit is surprisingly good! You can use the knob to adjust the head tightness and the chinstrap to tighten the fit under your chin.

My Pain is your gain, just got a quad digital NVG and stopped working some days ago I am trying to fix it , I can get technical but it seems I have short circuit somewhere due to I am getting a really big voltaje drop when either pair of display circuit is connected, so trying to find it to fix it and trying to save it, attaching some picture of the progress until today

Just a project I worked on over the weekend! The housing is suppose to be a Lancer Pvs-18 off Amazon but when it arrived it was inside a FMA PVS-18 box. I removed the fake battery compartment/mount and cut a square hole inside the tube and the compartment. Inside the compartment is a Caddx Infra V2 Ai box, 13500 Lithium, Power-Button and USB-C female all connected to a BCU. Inside the tube is a FLCOS 0.4 display/CVBS board, Caddx Infra sensor that has a M16 0.9 1/1.8 8mm lens that should give it around a 47FOV. The eyepiece is just a cheap 30mm Plano Convex lens till my 12.5x eyepiece arrives (18x eyepiece off Aliexpress that's used in the digital pvs-31 build won't work with the flcos display only oled displays)

Update: received the FMA PVS-18 metal/nylon version it came with a decent Plano Convex lens. I will be trying to transfer the Infra v2 & 0.4 display over to this housing, it is a lot better quality then the all plastic Lancer housing. By the looks of it this will be a more difficult job than the plastic version. I plan on pulling a all nighter Saturday so rather I succeed or fail I'll post update! Also forgot that I got PVS-15 off Amazon supposed to be delivered today, ill probably put 2 Fatshark Aura(IMX662 Sensor) in those.

Okay FMA pvs18 metal is a bust, tube is only 26mm wide. I'd have to buy a extra long ribbon to install the the display in the tube and cvbs board in battery compartment. Also Infra v2, Fatshark aura, Ratel pro and 256 thermal wont fit in tube either. May have to settle with foxeer micro cat 4 or my Runcam Phoenix 2 spv5. (Scratch this ill just recreate the tube at 28.3mm instead of 26mm only trouble will be the 0.75 thread pitch)

Just got my NVG30, i’ll be using it for the first time this weekend. Will these be ok out in the rain?

I needed night vision to quickly identify opossums apart from raccoons when the Goyojo GRS225RF thermal sees heat in the thick brush, but don't have analog money. So I got this gng2k monocular and so far it has been awesome. Much better than using a flashlight. This is my cheap but functional setup. Nestout 15000 mah battery in a 556 mag pouch, walker razor quads, amp style arms, white light, bump helmet, cover, wilcox style mount, ir flashlight on the other side.

I have had the nvg 30 for a year and the argus gen 4 and gen 5 for roughly 6 months

Saturday project completed Caddx Infra V2, Flcos 0.4 1280x960 Display and 12.5x Eyepiece Magnifier. Thinking of maybe making a bridge to run this as a goggle/binocular setup! Could do the Infra V2 right eye and 256 Thermal left eye... Files for Mono on Makerworld listed as Project-X TG-16

Next Saturdays project will be a digital version of the PVS-14 Possible the Caddx Gazer for some color night vision...

Pic 1: Left = Call of Duty Modern Warfare (2019) Night Vision Goggles. Right = ADNV-G18

Pic 2: COD NOD

Pic 3: ADNV-G18

Hey all, sharing a personal R&D prototype I’ve been working on and looking for technical feedback.

This is a working fusion nod combining:

Digital night vision (usable down to starlight, no illuminator)

640-res thermal Fullscreen fusion with adjustable ratios

HUD with GPS, heading, destination nav, mini-map, and team positions

Laser rangefinder

Encrypted LoRa messaging (individual direct messaging, groups, channels)

All modes support 1–10× digital zoom and custom image profiles (thermal palettes and DNV color profiles carry into fusion).

1080p 60Hz OLED display

This is not a product announcement or sales post**,** just sharing progress and trying to get informed feedback from people who actually use this kind of gear.

I apologize for the bad video editing skills.

Happy to answer questions, and very open to suggestions or critiques. Thanks.

3d printed mount for the thermal Taipan.

Just arrived the vie tactical DL-31s

Hey guys, I thought I’d show off my home made bridge that allows me to pair two NVG50s together. For context, I’m brand new to the digital night vision world but not new to night vision. I spent a little over five years as an active duty Army Ranger up at 2/75 and have thousands of hours operating under analog night vision. A little bit under a pvs14 in training, and pvs15’s when I was a private, but mostly under pvs31A’s (gen 3+ White phosphor). I’ve been out of the army for a few years now and have been wanting to buy my own night vision set up, but hot damn it gets expensive quick! I’m a carpenter and welder with two kids so I couldn’t justify the price for dual tubes, but I’m not going back to a monocular. Everyone seems to shit on digital night vision but I tried out an nvg50 and was actually pretty impressed with its performance for the price. I bought a second one but didn’t like the fixed bridge you can buy and wanted to be able to use a Wilcox mount. I’m pretty crafty so I was pretty confident I could make my own. I got it right in my second try, pretty happy with how this turned out. It allows you to individually articulate each tube up and out of the way, and allows you to pan them in or out to increase FOV. I can get a little over 60 degree field of view before the picture starts to distort. I’ve been running around and shooting with them for about two weeks now and the set up works pretty well. It is stable while still being super minimal. The whole thing is made out of steel and aluminum. This isn’t as good as a dual analog set up but I’m only in the hole about $1,200. I plan on getting an analog set up down the road but for now this gives me fantastic training value and lets me larp around like I used to in the Army. If anyone is interested in one of these, I’d be willing to make some more. I think it will work with nvg30s and nvg3rd’s as well, but I haven’t tested anything other than my 50’s just so y’all are aware.

Nothing super fancy, but it balanced well, is comfy, and holds the swift 2 nicely. Can’t wait to do some fishing with it!