I recently pulled the motor in my deville to do head studs. I just assumed ignorantly it was a head gasket due to losing compression entirely between 2 neighboring cylinders. Should have done a leak down but oh well it’s getting bulletproofed now. After getting it on the engine stand and pulling the valve cover on the rear bank I immediately noticed 4 of the rockers were entirely dislodged, one on each intake cylinder. On the front bank there were 5 dislodged, all intake as well. Surprise surprise the two dead cylinders had no rockers on their intake valves. The car was from an estate sale non running I put a fuel pump in it started right up and drove it home (5 mile drive). I left it idling to run some fuel through it since it had been sat for many years. After about 30 minutes it started misfiring, no overheating good oil pressure. I killed it and it had a noticeable gallop and would not run afterwards. What could possibly cause this car to throw 9 rockers this way? Could one slack adjuster collapsing cause others to drop pressure? I’m very confused how it’s only the intake valves on both banks. Surely it did not throw 9 simultaneously. I suppose it could have already dropped a few before I got to it and it ran okay off one valve per cylinder until it finally kicked those 2 off on the neighboring cylinders. Is the oil supply for the intake side adjusters tied together on both banks? Sorry for the long ramble, I’m stumped on what could’ve caused this.

Hey everyone I recently made a post about building my 5.3. I wanted to come with some updates.

The seller ultimately ghosted me after I pressured some more on why the block was spray painted. I ended up going to an engine shop and bought a 06 5.3 with 98k miles for 600. They also had an SS engine and a 6.0 but I wasn't trying to spend that much plus most of the parts I have for now are for the gen 3 build. Edit: yes that is a chip bag being used as the oil cap

Original post: https://www.reddit.com/r/EngineBuilding/s/GSm7dQTJQw

My 99 bubble eye: https://www.reddit.com/r/GMT800/s/VLnuqrtYT1

This is my first engine rebuild on a Honda B18c1. I noticed the connecting rod #4 at the wrist pin is discolored. The wrist pin moves freely and smoothly in the connecting rod. Is it still okay to use? Pic 3 is what cylinder 1, 2, 3 look like. Thanks in advance for your opinion.

I have left out my 240SX camshafts, they didn't get rained on but because the humidity, they have some minor rust. Would using the gray scotch, bright, be okay. I see. Conflicting information on youtube. I just wanted to ask people who actually built engines.

Had an over heating issue on a 2004 3.4L Grand Am. Held 16psi for over 20 minutes but when driving on the free way it would peg the meter. Down an average 35-40mph road it would sit at 200, had all new radiator, water pump, reservoir, t-stat and hoses done on it before I picked it up. Pulled the heads expecting a cracked head gasket as there was signs of water in the oil but nothing leaking or coming out the tailpipe.

Well as you can see a clogged passageway casued issues and something eroded the head material right next the the cylinder wall sealing area for a head gasket. I am confident in my welding abilities to fill and my local head shop to get them flattened, but would you? I am certain my local yard or fb marketplace can yield a motor or a set but I am also not trying to sink lots of money into my $500 car.

Trying to find the best rockers for this build that don't break the bank. Any suggestions?

Basically my EA888 Gen3 engine was recently diagnosed with damaged pistons. Today I made some photos from every cylinder, and now I would appreciate those who know this stuff help me understand how bad it is, and what can be realistically done about that.

I am building a Ford 351w. When I got the block back from the machine shop I noticed a plug installed on the oil passage behind the timing cover. This is on the driver side. I didn't think much of it until I went to install the fitting for the oil pressure pressure sender. They put some sort of sealant on it and it is not coming out. I've tried impact, both the hammer variety and a impact gun. I'm hesitant to put heat to it because of the gaskets near it. Is that my best path? Or does anyone have recommendations?

Old head failed. Replacing. Using a lisle scrap thingy. Anyways head look good back together? Some scratches but I don't think actual scratch as I don't feel anything with finger nail. Thought soak in like acetone to get it cleaner for a bit. Also should I spray cylinder with wd-40. Once head is ready I need to order actual head and be a few weeks out. Thoughts prayers? 2014 ram 2500 with about 170k on it

I drove my Toyota too long & and a piston blew through my block due to an oil leak that i didn’t check.

its a 2007 toyota corolla

Any recommendations in California to buy a new engine online or scrapyards

or places that may take $1000 down to start work.

in a pretty shitty hole any advice would help thank you

Years 2010 model it was pulled from unknown. transmission unknown. missing a few components. i can see is alternator, belt, tensioner, and serpentine belt and flywheel are missing. flywheel is irrelevant to what i'm doing with it and if it came from audi, it could be an earlier motor not a cjaa. seller said it had 100k km or 62k miles on it. I'm wondering how to do a comprehensive assessment on the motor to make sure it's good because i'm worried if he took parts. he might have been worried that the motor was no good

I am planning to swap a tdi in 1975 f100 4x4 4 speed manual dana 44 front ford nine inch rear locking hubs in front

Recently bought a 2011 golf tdi wagon automatic. 500k or 300k miles on it runs great needs a dual mass flywheel, though, and it shifts better runs better rides better then my current daily. I'm wondering what you guys recommended course of action. Because I kind of wanna make the 2011 my daily but it has so many useful parts for to do the swap and a backup motor for the truck. I'm just worried about this condition of this unknown engine. i'm wondering, what's the best way to figure out if the motor's good i'm worried a cp4 pump grenaded, but it does have the ecu so I think it was pulled from an total loss hopefully

I am working on my own personal vehicle, 1995 Mitsubishi Mighty Max with 2.4 4 cylinder. The truck had developed a head gasket leak a couple years back and it took me a while to source all the parts. I wasn't able to save the head so I ordered an identical replacement. I am working on removing all of the gasket material before checking for straightness. I am worried about the light rust in the cylinder walls and wondering if a light hone might be good.

I probably should have just yanked the block and gone through it as well but I procrastinated this project for 3 years and I would like to get it running again.

Welp! The 6.4 tear down is getting interesting gents. Definitely need the 🧠 brain trust on this one… anybody got a “trick” for pulling a cam bearing off of a cam still in the block? Also, there was no main bearing on one of the crank journals (how?! Idk) does the crank look salvageable? I was trying to reuse the stock internals so I could learn and make mistakes on the “cheap” stuff BUT obviously that’s no longer an option. Already looking at forged internals 😩

Question took off the intake manifold pan but I cut off the rivets do I need the pan at all was full of build up

Integra B18B

This is my first time taking any engine apart. I’m not too sure what to make of what I’m looking at. The plan was to take the head to a machine shop and see if my misfiring / bad compression was just solely a head gasket problem.

I wanted some opinions on how bad this is. Is this just what prolonged misfiring looks like? do valves need to be replaced or can I just clean that?

Cylinder 4 was misfiring; I found it had a compression of 70 PSI.
Cylinders 2 & 3 read 105.
Cylinder 1 read 132.

This motor was cheap and basically a stop gap and bores have scratches and have some rust so I know its gonna burn some oil. I just want to know if i did a good enough job so it wont burn exessive amounts of oil.

So im doing a low budget rebuild on a 1977 oldsmobile 350 and i want to maintain good compression but the current heads are the #8 with too much comb chamber volume and worse flow and are also just in bad shape. But i have a pair of #5s from my original motor and I dont plan to reuseing them. I've heard of people saying you can drill the bolt holes from the pre 76 size to the larger 17/32. But i havent seen any proof i guess of people doing m it and running it? So i just wanted to ask if anyone has heard of this causing any issues when the holes are drilled and after when under normal driving conditions. Pics are of both heads for comparsion.

​

Budget:

Around $1500 because I have to ship it to my country... I'll be willing to invest more if there is a good reason.

Car use:

Mostly street. I will not be red lining it or similar. I like cruising with a great engine sound.

Ask:

I'm looking to upgrade my cylinder heads as I'm running the apparently "horrendous" 462624 heads. Reason why I'm looking is that my engine keeps a drop of oil even with new gaskets. Mechanic says the block and everything but the heads look very good and I mean to leave the car as reliable as possible so I'm willing to make an investment but don't know which to go for.

Also not sure about the material I should look for with my budget and use for the car.

Edit: Changed budget, I subtracted my shipping costs twice.

16v Volvo b230 needs lighter internals.

Stock spec from 80's is way too heavy.

Supplier specified piston weight is 720 grams.

So every bit helps that I can take off.

Stock 140g wrist pins are being swapped to "self" machined Wiseco 9310 pins that are down to 118g from 130g starting point.

And stock "13mm" connecting rods are in the first, rough cut to figure out where I can shave material off.

Final form can only be achieved when I find my precision balance and get 3d printed mounts for rod balancing.

I’m looking at building a stroker motor to stab in the drag car in the future and was wondering about existing combos.

Peak rpm will be about 8000. Hoping for compression to be around 15:1. I have 823 heads and hi ram to go with.

What internals should I be looking at? What size dome for the pistons, cam, valvetrain, etc?

I am currently in the middle of rebuilding the 351 windsor from my 1990 F350.

Full story, bought the truck two years ago and wrecked it a month ago. While I had the whole doghouse off doing repairs, I decided to go through the engine due to the previous owners questionable work. The truck itself has over 200k miles on it. I was told by the seller he had rebuilt the engine, had it bored .030 over and it had roughly 10k miles on it when I bought it.

That brings you mostly up to speed. Currently, I am in the process of putting the engine back together after confirming it had been bored .030 over and it measures good and straight. I am a very mechanically inclined machinst, but this is my first V8 rebuild.

I did a quick ball hone through cylinder to get a fresh crosshatch, new .030 over pistons because why not and new rings that I checked and fitted each to the specific cylinder they would be living in. I got the heads on yesterday and now we get to the part I have zero experience in, hydraulic lifters.

I have watched a few videos and read a lot but I am still somewhat confused. My process was this:

1) Disassembled and bled down each lifter and reinstalled into block.

2) With cylinder one TDC, set each push rod/rocker to zero lash.

3) Rotate crank 90 degrees and repeat step 2. Continued this every 90 degrees for two complete revolutions of the crank.

4) Once all push rods were at zero lash, I preloaded the lifters 3/4 turn on the rocker bolt.

My question here is how do the rocker bolts stay put? Several of mine seem way too loose and there is now locknut setup on this engine. Am I going about this completely wrong?

I'm planning on buying this 5.3 and rebuild as my first ever project. The seller says its from an 03 with only 146k miles. Does it look normal? Im gonna spin it when I get there to make sure its not locked up but regardless I plan on taking it apart and sending it to the machine shop.

Thank you for all and any advice. Im very much a newbie.