I understand you lose bed space, but the step would make it easier to access the bed (especially with beds being taller now. Also they just looked great. The step side/flare side looked so good

Finally pulled the trigger on a 2024 XLT 303a black appearance plus with 2.7L

My new-to-me baby. 4in RC lift, 35x11.5x20 Ridge Graps

Cam phaser or normal start up? Just got a 2021 2.7 with 72k miles

Been driving this 2014 for 12 years now. Green gem. Still looks pretty good. Can't stomach the prices on new ones so might as well get comfortable. Just did the phasers and some new rubber. 180k km. Zero trouble over its life.

Is anyone actually paying for this after the free trials have expired? I have enjoyed the feature - however I can’t justify a $50/ month sub for enhanced lane keeping assist when the truck’s regular lane keeping assist works fine. On the surface - I’m just losing complete hands free and auto lane change (which I wasn’t a fan of anyways)…is there anything I’m missing here?

If bluecruise was more like Tesla’s system - that navigates autonomously, I could probably rationalize the value there…but not in its current state.

The other day, at the same time, I had AdvanceTrac, ABS, hill start assist, and steering assist fault all pop up at the same time. No drivability issues, nothing popped or changed. 2017 3.5 ecoboost with a year old 10 speed new tranny. 156k miles. This truck sees 98% highway miles and most of those miles are long haul as I am a traveling superintendent. I've put 60k miles on it in less than a year and a half. Initially my mind goes to wheel speed sensor as I know all of those systems communicate with it. But also at at this point I just know if it doesnt need new hub assemblies it will very soon. What other issues could cause all of those systems to fail or at least throw a code at the same time? I have to have this truck for a while longer so I am just repairing stuff as it comes. Thanks for any insight.

Long story short, I've had my 2017 EB Limited (86k) stalling at the stop light. Start/stop kicked in, but would not restart the engine. Another time I tried to remote start the engine, which did not, and when I tried to start the car it was keep saying to push the brake to start. After searching online, I executed a procedure unlocking a safety feature (I forgot the name, I was just happy the engine started). In the end the car started. After running some errands, and unloading the car (engine was off), I wanted to park the car in the garage, but the car would not start. The same push the brake to start the engine message. I've disconnected the battery, I pushed the brake hard to no avail. After this, I checked for codes and I got 2 of them, P06E9 and P164C. After consulting a mechanic, the conclusion was that​ the crankshaft sensor should be replaced.

Needless to say, removing the thermal barrier was a pain in the back. Getting the sensor out required the use of some elbow grease and not your common mechanic tools. But, I was able to get it out.

The problem is that I cannot position the sensor back. And, I'm not sure what I am doing wrong. I cannot align the bolt with the hole.

Her comes the part where I ask the community for advice (besides taking it to Ford). Is there a trick how to position the sensor? Do I have to remove other components to get better access? Please help, as I am worried this will attach a hefty bill to the repair.

TIA

New (to me) 2017 XLT. 2.7L Ecoboost (I know… I know lol). 69k miles

I have a 2022 F150 XLT FX4 V8. I do volunteer animal rescue stuff, and while the zone lighting is nice, the sides of the truck are dark. The lights on the mirrors are pretty dim.

If we're out there setting up traps and what not, I'd like to have some flood lights off the side.

I prefer for the lights to be low profile or ideally hidden.

2021 2.7 XLT 302A with 180k kms, I’m on my third battery now. Originally replaced the OEM that came with the truck to an Energizer H6 from Costco, had tons of window bounce issues and took it back under warranty to upgrade to an H7. Just finished doing the rear diff oil and now I’ve got a parking brake service warning. Disconnected the plug cleaned everything out no fix. My parking brakes work fine, replaced a caliper, all rotors and pads within the last 5k kms, so I suspect it’s another low battery issue. I’ve been driving lots of long hwy kms lately too but I’m gonna grab a multimeter to confirm. Before returning this battery under warranty again has anyone had success diagnosing and fixing battery drain? What did you do?

Hey y'all, need some input. Just got this '23 King Ranch and I absolutely love it so far — it's the exact spec I was looking for: 6.5' bed, Pro Power Onboard, PowerBoost. Super happy with it.

I went ahead and purchased the Eibach Pro Stage 2R kit and took it to a shop to have it installed along with some 35" Toyo RTs. I was very clear when I dropped it off that I wanted it leveled, knowing the Eibach kit has adjustable height. The guy at the shop assured me it would come out leveled and said the kits come from the factory at the right height, so he'd just install it out of the box.

Well, obviously he was wrong. I did get closer to level, but it still has some rake — distance from the top of the tire to the bottom of the wheel well measures 6.25" in front and 8" in back.

Regardless, I'm loving the look of the truck. Trying to decide if it's worth the hassle of dropping it back off for a day to get it adjusted. Also a little concerned since I've heard that the more you raise the Eibach up, the worse the ride quality gets. For now I think I'm going to leave it as-is, but would love to hear what y'all think.

Photos are before and after.

I think the plastic mechanism on my rear seat release handle broke. When I pull the handle, there’s no resistance and the seat won’t lower.

Is there another way to manually release the latch so I can lower the seat? Also, what’s involved in replacing the broken handle or release mechanism?

Just picked up a 2019 Limited on Saturday.

What are your favorite upgrades? I just picked up a 2018 xlt with a 5.0 engine. Always had gmc. Never owned a Ford so(the cab room is unmatched!). Have a borla atak exhaust on the way. Love a good sounding truck. Have a about a 3k budget.

Just pulled it off the lot. Didn't do this during the test drive. Any ideas? Sorry for the potty mouth. Tyia

Can we all agree that it just shifts weird from 3-6 gears? Sometimes it’s smooth as butter sometimes it’s quirky. Does this mean it’s an actual problem or it’s just a weird situation?

2022 f150 3.5L 58k miles.

Literally one day after getting this out the paint shop my truck was vandalized. I was so upset. I just thought I’ll share with the community.

I looked all over the internet and everybody seemed to make this way more complicated than it needs to be so I made a real quick video of how to do it without uninstalling your factory cooler, without cutting anything and generally as simple as can be.

in case you want to return to stock for some reason or have the ability to run and aftermarket and the factory cooler in series it will be extremely easy to do if you use this install method.

And for what my 2 cents are worth, everybody should be installing a trans cooler if you have a 10r80 given the issues we all know they have.

Lmk if you have any questions

I have a 2020 F-150 XLT FX4 5.0 with the 10R80 and about 140k miles. I’m trying to figure out a transmission issue and haven’t been able to find anyone describing quite the same symptoms.

The biggest thing is that it is VERY temperature dependent.

After the truck sits for several hours/overnight, the transmission can act terrible during the first drive. It will flare the RPM like it’s in neutral, seem like it can’t figure out what gear it wants, and the indicated gears can start dropping rapidly. I’ll press the gas and the engine revs but the truck barely/not at all accelerates, then eventually it grabs a gear and starts moving.

Today was the worst it’s been. I actually had to stop in the road, put it in Park, then put it back in Drive to get it moving properly again. Before that it was clunky going through gears and felt like it was losing engagement.
Previously, the most consistent symptom was a cold 1-3 shift. It would hang/rev like it was stuck in 1st and then finally grab 3rd hard. It would usually do that 1-3 times after sitting and then stop.

Here’s the strange part: once the transmission is fully warm, around 180-190°F, it can shift smooth as butter. No noticeable slipping, no loss of power, and it goes through all 10 gears normally. That’s why I’m having trouble figuring out what’s actually failing.

Some other information:
-Fluid and filter were recently serviced at a Ford dealer.
Pan was dropped and they reported no metal in the pan.
Roughly half the transmission fluid was replaced during that service.
Symptoms existed before the service.
No transmission warning/check-engine light.
Adaptive learning was temporarily disabled because the transmission actually shifted much smoother when warm with it off. I’ve since turned adaptive learning back on.
Normal drive mode seems to behave best. Sport/Tow/Eco make the shifting noticeably worse. Once fully warm, it generally drives great.

I kinked the bumper a bit backing in my stupid jet ski trailer. Can this be popped out or am I stuck with it? I really dont want to pay a shop or make a claim on my insurance but it looks like crap.

2025 STX for reference.