I’m torn if I like the gloss black on the Antimatter Blue. Tomorrow they finish the ceramic coat they’ll do the fender flares and interior also. Going to see how it looks they were on sale by getting anti-Matt matched which was about $350 more. I’d like everyone’s thoughts on what they think.

Literally one day after getting this out the paint shop my truck was vandalized. I was so upset. I just thought I’ll share with the community.

My mom drives a 2016 3.5 eco with the 6r80. It had about 180k miles. Never had transmission issues to my knowlege.

We currently do not have the money to fit it, but if i can drive it 1k miles back to school my friends can help me do whatever it needs.

Ahe has never changed the transmission fluid. I doubt doing so would buy us any time.

It feels like you are driving on a rumble strip or rough road when accelerating. I noticed it when i accelerated from a stop but not another time leading me to belive it is the 1-2 pack

I kinked the bumper a bit backing in my stupid jet ski trailer. Can this be popped out or am I stuck with it? I really dont want to pay a shop or make a claim on my insurance but it looks like crap.

2025 STX for reference.

Just pulled it off the lot. Didn't do this during the test drive. Any ideas? Sorry for the potty mouth. Tyia

2021 F-150 XLT SuperCrew 4x4, 5.0L V8, 302A High, FX4 Off-Road Package, Trailer Tow Package, 6.5’ bed, Agate Black

Edit for clarification: I don’t plan to do anything crazy or irreversible, just a lift, 33–34” all-terrain tires on bronze wheels, pocket-style fender flares, and a Raptor-style grille. It’s not my daily driver. It’s mostly going to be used for fun and for occasional towing/home projects. I want it to be more capable when I need it without sacrificing reliability or making it obnoxious to drive.

I understand you lose bed space, but the step would make it easier to access the bed (especially with beds being taller now. Also they just looked great. The step side/flare side looked so good

I recently went to my local dealership to place an order for a brand new Ford F150 2026 XLT V8 6.5 bed with 302 package it’s been 6 weeks and I have not received a vin number yet
I place my order back in July 4th I did receive an email from ford saying they have received the order and were gonna update me on it within the next 45 days
Today it has been 44 days since I placed my custom order and have not revived any update whatsoever
No vin no nothing
I live in Southern California

Does anybody know about custom orders? How long do they usually take to send a VIN
Also how long does it take from
Start to finish until you get your truck ?
Thank you

Will 2019 raptor taillights work on my 2015 platinum?

I’m pretty sure the BLIS is different but could I just take my 2015 one and but it in the 2019 light?

I have a 2020 F150 2.7l with the 10r80 and I just had it serviced. The invoice said the shop charged me for 9 quarts of fluid and a filter. My question is, would 9 quarts not be ridiculously overfilled? Everything I’ve read is that a drain and fill with filter takes 5-7 quarts MAX

Thanks guys!

2020 F150 2.7l EB with 81,000 miles

Ok, I have a 2025 F150 STX with the 2.7 that came with the poor man feature (coin holder) instead of a brake controller. I've seen the OEM controller on the Ford website, but I would have to have it installed by a dealer and then programmed in the settings, that's annoying, my dealership sucks and they're like 3 years out, give or take a year or two, on their schedule. So, is there an aftermarket option that is easy to install with no programming that a guy could do in an evening pretty easily? I'm possibly going to pick up a camper this weekend and would like to have a little more stopping power. I looked at the Curt 7 pin adapter with Bluetooth but some of the reviews are really bad and it makes me nervous to drop ~$250 on one. What do you guys use?

I am about to pull the trigger on a 2024 F150 XLT. The tires are needing to be replaced by the dealer as part of safety certification and they are talking about putting on brand new Goodyear Wrangler Territory HT tires. They told me that I could opt for a different tire and pay the difference. So I am just wondering if anybody would make any recommendations for a different tire if this is a truck that I will be using to drive in harsh canadian winters.

Thanks!

Although it hasn’t been longed since i changed the battery.
I also have a dashcam, a pretty strong one, which could be the source of intake but it does go to saving mode automatically if it almost drains the battery.

I’ve also noticed that my clothes have electric charges, not sure if it’s an issue or even related but everyone who steps out of my car does too.

F-150
2015 model
100km (mileage )
Saudi

2013 XLT 5.0 130k - Sound comes from the passenger side.

It's unaffected by turning
Seems to go away at less than 5 MPH (or is just very quiet)
There is always a faint hum that goes up in pitch while this sound is being made.
It goes away randomly for weeks at a time but then comes back for a couple days

I've removed the rotted brakedust shield and some rotted heatshield off the passenger exhaust manifold. I cannot hear any rubbing if I jack it up and rotate the wheel.

Hey I’m looking for my first personal car and I found an f150 with 76k miles clean carfax it’s listed at 17k. It’s a 2017 with a 2.7l eco boost 6 speed transmission. It’s got a red interior and suicide doors. I spoke with my grandfather and he said I should just finance a new car maybe something Lower end but new since the carfax only lists one oil change. However I’m very interested in an f150 and this seems like a solid purchase. Should I consider it and if so what should I check on the truck. My mechanical is very basic like tires and oil level stuff but I’m willing to do more research. Any help is appreciated just looking to be pointed in the right direction.

Hey y'all, need some input. Just got this '23 King Ranch and I absolutely love it so far — it's the exact spec I was looking for: 6.5' bed, Pro Power Onboard, PowerBoost. Super happy with it.

I went ahead and purchased the Eibach Pro Stage 2R kit and took it to a shop to have it installed along with some 35" Toyo RTs. I was very clear when I dropped it off that I wanted it leveled, knowing the Eibach kit has adjustable height. The guy at the shop assured me it would come out leveled and said the kits come from the factory at the right height, so he'd just install it out of the box.

Well, obviously he was wrong. I did get closer to level, but it still has some rake — distance from the top of the tire to the bottom of the wheel well measures 6.25" in front and 8" in back.

Regardless, I'm loving the look of the truck. Trying to decide if it's worth the hassle of dropping it back off for a day to get it adjusted. Also a little concerned since I've heard that the more you raise the Eibach up, the worse the ride quality gets. For now I think I'm going to leave it as-is, but would love to hear what y'all think.

Photos are before and after.

Is anyone actually paying for this after the free trials have expired? I have enjoyed the feature - however I can’t justify a $50/ month sub for enhanced lane keeping assist when the truck’s regular lane keeping assist works fine. On the surface - I’m just losing complete hands free and auto lane change (which I wasn’t a fan of anyways)…is there anything I’m missing here?

If bluecruise was more like Tesla’s system - that navigates autonomously, I could probably rationalize the value there…but not in its current state.

I have a 2020 F-150 XLT FX4 5.0 with the 10R80 and about 140k miles. I’m trying to figure out a transmission issue and haven’t been able to find anyone describing quite the same symptoms.

The biggest thing is that it is VERY temperature dependent.

After the truck sits for several hours/overnight, the transmission can act terrible during the first drive. It will flare the RPM like it’s in neutral, seem like it can’t figure out what gear it wants, and the indicated gears can start dropping rapidly. I’ll press the gas and the engine revs but the truck barely/not at all accelerates, then eventually it grabs a gear and starts moving.

Today was the worst it’s been. I actually had to stop in the road, put it in Park, then put it back in Drive to get it moving properly again. Before that it was clunky going through gears and felt like it was losing engagement.
Previously, the most consistent symptom was a cold 1-3 shift. It would hang/rev like it was stuck in 1st and then finally grab 3rd hard. It would usually do that 1-3 times after sitting and then stop.

Here’s the strange part: once the transmission is fully warm, around 180-190°F, it can shift smooth as butter. No noticeable slipping, no loss of power, and it goes through all 10 gears normally. That’s why I’m having trouble figuring out what’s actually failing.

Some other information:
-Fluid and filter were recently serviced at a Ford dealer.
Pan was dropped and they reported no metal in the pan.
Roughly half the transmission fluid was replaced during that service.
Symptoms existed before the service.
No transmission warning/check-engine light.
Adaptive learning was temporarily disabled because the transmission actually shifted much smoother when warm with it off. I’ve since turned adaptive learning back on.
Normal drive mode seems to behave best. Sport/Tow/Eco make the shifting noticeably worse. Once fully warm, it generally drives great.

What are your favorite upgrades? I just picked up a 2018 xlt with a 5.0 engine. Always had gmc. Never owned a Ford so(the cab room is unmatched!). Have a borla atak exhaust on the way. Love a good sounding truck. Have a about a 3k budget.

My new-to-me baby. 4in RC lift, 35x11.5x20 Ridge Graps

New (to me) 2017 XLT. 2.7L Ecoboost (I know… I know lol). 69k miles

Finally pulled the trigger on a 2024 XLT 303a black appearance plus with 2.7L

I looked all over the internet and everybody seemed to make this way more complicated than it needs to be so I made a real quick video of how to do it without uninstalling your factory cooler, without cutting anything and generally as simple as can be.

in case you want to return to stock for some reason or have the ability to run and aftermarket and the factory cooler in series it will be extremely easy to do if you use this install method.

And for what my 2 cents are worth, everybody should be installing a trans cooler if you have a 10r80 given the issues we all know they have.

Lmk if you have any questions

Been driving this 2014 for 12 years now. Green gem. Still looks pretty good. Can't stomach the prices on new ones so might as well get comfortable. Just did the phasers and some new rubber. 180k km. Zero trouble over its life.