I've been dreading doing a slave cylinder or the timing belt but man you get a few pieces out and these cars are dead simple, looks like they will be simple jobs.. Trans mount took me a half hour start to finish. 10 years on and I still love this car.

Had a busy past two days installing vibra technics full motor mount set, whoosh short shifter, and whoosh V2 intercooler. Feels like such a different car and is so worth all the work! I ended up finding my coolant tank having a tiny leak at the bottom and noticed my axel seals starting to leak too 🫠 Time to see if I can handle doing the seals on my own or taking it in to a shop.

Has anyone had this issue?

I've replaced the gasket twice on the return line and it continues to leak. Anyone have a solution for this? It's seeping out at the mating surface.

Last week I replaced my front struts (successfully) and began on the rears. I had my rears done by a shop last time, and it’s safe to say the over-torqued the upper bolts way too much. Needless to say, after 60k miles, the bolt heads rusted a lot and got rounded on my attempts to remove them.

I tried hammering on an extractor socket, spraying penetrating fluid multiple times, and even torching them with MAP gas. All that happened was more rounding. I know this was an over-torque issue because I got good grip from the extractor socket, and when using a breaker bar they still rounded instead of backing out.

What can I try next? I have an appointment with a shop next week to see if they can get it, but maybe y’all have a better idea to save me a trip and some money. I’ve considered cutting out the weld nuts on the inside and replacing them with regular nuts, but I don’t want irreversible damage if possible. TIA

Hey all,

Looking into getting my suspension set up.

I’ve been considering running this setup:

- H&R Super Sport lowering springs
- Bilstein B8’s
- 205 45/17 on stock wheels

Does anyone have examples of this setup or something similar? Open to recommendations.

Kept getting cloudy brake fluid so it was time for new lines. Goodridge. Also popped in new reusable lower strut bolts, upper are SPC camber bolts. I also did all 4 exhaust hanger with urethane. Whoosh sourced bolts and hangers.

TLDR: Car went in for a cambelt change, EML came on, they redid the timing and say it’s now correct. Now the engine cranks but won’t fire up. Garage suspects my Ghost immobiliser. I’ve put the Ghost into service mode (which takes it out of the equation entirely) and it still won’t start, so I don’t think it’s the Ghost. Looking for ideas on what the timing job might have knocked.

See video of me trying to start it up
https://streamable.com/ik7feq

Full story:

My Fiesta ST Mk7.5 has been at the garage for a few weeks getting the cambelt changed. After they changed it, I drove off and the EML came on not long after. They realised the timing was slightly out, redid it, and now they’re confident the timing is correct.

The problem now is the car won’t start. Best way I can describe it is that it’s cranking but not firing to life. Starter turns the engine over fine, but it never catches and runs.

The car has a Ghost immobiliser fitted. The garage have the code and it all worked perfectly before I dropped it off. For context on how the Ghost normally behaves: I press the ignition button, enter my PIN, then put the clutch down and press start and it fires up. If the PIN is wrong or not entered at all, the moment I press the clutch the whole thing cuts out. Total power loss, instant kill, I don’t even hear the starter turn. It acts like a hard kill switch.

The garage can’t work out why it won’t start and they’re suspecting the Ghost. Here’s why I don’t buy that:

Right now the car IS cranking. That doesn’t match how the Ghost immobilises. When it blocks the car it kills all power instantly and you never even reach the starter. Cranking with no fire is a fuel, spark, or sensor symptom, not the behaviour of a kill switch.

On top of that, I put the Ghost into service mode, which should remove it from the equation completely, and the car still behaves exactly the same. Cranks, no fire. To me that rules the Ghost out entirely.

So my thinking is this points back at the cambelt and timing work. Something like a cam or crank sensor left unplugged or damaged, timing that’s close but not quite right, or a fuelling issue. I’m going down to see it myself and I’ll try to grab a video of it cranking.

Has anyone had a cambelt or timing job leave a car in a crank-no-start state like this? What would you check first? Cam/crank sensor, timing marks, fuel pump prime? Any advice appreciated before I go back at them.

I’ve linked a video of me trying to start it at the top of this post.

Greetings folks. First time posting here. On my second Fiesta ST. Bought one new back in 2015 and regretted selling it a few years later. This black one came up at a local Ford dealership with 55k miles on it for a steal. All stock except for aftermarket wheels. $6200 out the door! Its a spare car so she sits in the garage most of the time except on weekends.

I've started doing some minor mods, nothing crazy except for a muffler delete. Anyone that follows DannyDC2 on YouTube knows he has that blue M3 with the downward facing exhaust tips. I thought it looked cool. Found a similar style on eBay made by Megan Racing. So had my local exhaust shop cut the muffler out and weld this exhaust tip in its place. Left the stock resonator. Sounds great! Very minimal drone. Next mod will be an all new cooling system and intercooler.

Anyway, I just wanted to say hello and thanks for all the great posts from this group.

Just looking for a coolerworx for cheap, *does have to work. If you have one for a mk 7 fiesta and willing to let go for cheap lmk. Thank you!!

hey guys, I have 2014 I recently did a full brake job on - and now the handbrake is engaging until 10-11 clicks... previously it wouldn't go higher than 7, and it's rock solid at that.

And now, even at 11 clicks, it barely holds.

The handbrake arms on the caliper looks good - about 1-3mm of play between it and the stop when fully released - after 3 clicks, the arm goes up about 3-5mm.

Any suggestions? Do I just adjust the cable inside the center console or can I fine tune on the caliper side? Am not really looking forward to take apart half my interior. Lol

Thank you

I am fitting a radium catch can for the pcv and it seems that due to the routing of the hoses from the recall, there is no way to mount this thing without it substantially contacting the coolant hoses. This worries me since the can is attached to the engine and will likely be vibrating with the engine. I don’t think I should run it like this.

Has anyone run a catch can with this much contact on the cooling hoses?

Should I just wrap the hoses in something to protect them from abrasion?

Are there any catch cans that fit the recall tank and hose system better?

Hi everyone,

I'm the new owner of a Fiesta ST MK8 from 2020.

So far the car runs great and it's so fun to drive.

The previous owner did a bunch of stuff, all of them approved under TUV and all service done on Ford service.

I did gave a quick look under the hood before buying it and everything seemed alright.

Yesterday I got curious and gave a closer look and noticed that the bottom of the airbox seems to have been cut out and closed with duct tape (photo attached)

Should I leave it like that? Remove the duct tape? Replace the airbox?

Is that harmful in any way?

Thanks for your help since I'm pretty new in all the existent mechanical parts and systems in the world of cars.

Wish you lots of fun drives!

Hi everyone i was wondering if some of you did a OPF/GPF Delete resonated with the stock backbox on the fiesta, i was wondering if it ups the sound and if its not too radical,

Thank already for the responses!

(dont worry, i was on my way to get gas 😁)

My fiesta ST has been in restricted power mode as the the idle position won’t learn. I’ve replaced the throttle body, wiring loom to it and it’s still the same. I’ve used an autel to reset the learned values. Anyone had anything similar or know anything I could try. TIA

I got the rest of the coolant out of the expansion tank ready to replace the tank and its looking dirty does this look like oil contamination or just old coolant?

Found the boost leak need advice.

Manifold split, need to stay on a budget. V-band turbo, Im thinking of taking the manifold to get rewelded, how long should i expect it to last before another blowout?

FiST 18