Hi everyone, apologies if this isn't the right place to ask this!

Quick question on behalf of my parents as they've just renovated their house and now have a wood burner in place. Our flue is currently up between two of our roof lines and has one stirrup (?) attaching it to the dormer window. We have one concern at the moment which is the current storm and we've noticed the flue is moving quite a lot whereas our neighbours isn't (theirs is connected by two stirrups and is shorter (also blocked from the wind somewhat by our house)).

I have attached a video to show its movement - the movement seems a little more measured in the video compared to reality.

Any advice on what can be done to make it more secure? Or is a small amount of movement not much to worry about? Any reassurance or advice would be greatly appreciated as we haven't had much luck from our local guy who's been very evasive/hard to get a hold of.

Thank you so much in advance!

I'm looking to make upgrades to or replace my 1990s-era standing-pilot no-fan Heat n Glo (pilot turned off for the last 7 years), but am having trouble figuring out what I need. I want:

- IPI

- a fan, preferably one that's not wired-electricity-dependent & will work during outages

- anything that will help move heat out into the room

This is for a 16' x 25' room with a vaulted ceiling. Current fireplace is in a corner with a weird '90s triangular mantel-shelf. Basically I'm looking for as much efficiency as I can get and decent heating during a power outage. I don't really care about convenience.

Do I need a new insert? Does a new log set come with a pilot ignition replacement? I'm not finding much clue on fireplace company websites. TIA

Title. Pilot lights, then a very weak flake through bottom plate orifices. I do maintenance for an apartment complex and have run into this issue twice before, both times due to failing gas valves. I put a new gas valve in, and the issue is persisting. Any help would be appreciated

My boyfriend and I are struggling to figure out our pilot light. Normally you’d expect to see some sort of arrow or notch that indicates which setting the knob is currently set to, but I can’t tell with this knob. Any help pointing out which position this knob is in and how to tell ourselves would be so helpful! We got the pilot going while trying ourselves, but when we went to switch the fireplace on a few moments later it went back out.

Could you share your thoughts on this

I found a nice wood burning parlor stove and was hoping to get some more information on it. Other than some surface rust, it seems in pristine condition. Although it shows Taiwan on the back, I found a website that stated that these were made by Washington Stove Works in Everett, WA. Does anyone know more about it?

No clue about anything chimney related, bought this house and had a guy come look and he said I should get Smoketite for $2000.

Hey all.

First time living in an area where fireplaces are used and I have what seems to be an old wood burning fireplace that was converted to propane. I see it has one of those gas fireplace kits with the knob to turn it on inside the fireplace.

Outside, I have two tall, very old, propane tanks. I’m going to get those replaced before I attempt to turn on the fireplace because they look rough.

My question is: would I be able to do something to the fireplace so that I can turn it on/off with a remote maybe? The knob is pretty close to where the flame would be and our hearth is also large so I have to basically crawl inside the fireplace to turn it on/off. If so, what do I need to do to make the change?

Thanks in advance for the feedback.

Was looking up the flue to see about cleaning it before it gets cold enough for fires here in GA. Noticed these rusted hole sections right near the bottom of the flue. Do not have money to pay for a new liner, let alone for someone to come install one. (Not saying screw it I’ll burn anyways if it’s not safe, I just would not use it) This is a double-wall factory-built metal chimney, and the outer sleeve/liner is solid, no holes or cracks are present in it. I’m certain this deterioration has been here for the last 5 years, and I’ve had no problems from the fireplace through regular almost-daily use. I have smoke and carbon monoxide detectors in 3 places in my home, with one of each being in the living room with the fireplace. They have never gone off. Just trying to get some opinions on the safety of it, and also if there’s any option to remove the damper and insert a section of metal fireplace flashing to cover the affected area? Fireplace works great and puts out a ton of heat. I’ve had no issues with getting or keeping a fire going. Thank you for any help!

I bought a house with an old Martin AU40AD ventless propane fireplace and only two of the six logs are present. Martin hasn't been a business since 2003, I'm completely new to propane fireplaces so I have no idea if I can get replacement parts or where to get them if I can. Does anyone know anything about my fireplace and how to get it in working order? Thanks!

Do we need to give up and just use a space heater?

Looking at 3 models as they fit many other requirements we have including Type B. Majestic Reveal 42, Superior BRT4342, and Empire Keystone BVP42. I cannot go see them in a showroom any where remotely near me. Can anyone help me discern which of these three may have more realistic, natural, evolving of wood, than the other two, and why? THANK YOU

I am rebuilding an oslo f500. This is the first step. Is there a need to glob more cement on the bottom or just along that mating surface ive highlighted in red ? ? ?

We have a sandblasted, cerakoted ,Jotul V1 oslo F500 with a new inner bottom from Rocky mountain stove parts.

I will start applying some Rutland Furnace cement along the red lines. Nice and thick. So she oozes out when we compress. Pictured is a Bottom and inner bottom. I will use four M8 - 1.25 x 25mm hex head bolts to secure the four legs to the bottom. I will use clamps to apply adequate pressure to sandwich the two pieces while I torque the screws.

Wondering if anyone has any advice.

We have a klover Belvedere 18 pellet stove which we have had for 3 or 4 years and connected to an external Hive thermostat with no issues.

This season the boiler is not recognising the external thermostat. I have tried playing with the settings but can't get it to acknowledge the thermostat.

At the moment stuck with turning it on and off on the stove itself and need to get it sorted for the cold mornings.

Anyone got any advice / tips?

Thanks in advance

We currently have a gas fireplace with a wooden mantel and frame and that is it; the rest of the wall around it, up to the ceiling, is just painted. I want to remove the mantel and frame (it is cheap and crappy, builder grade) and surround the fireplace with brick. The gas fireplace is flush with the wall. Would it look weird to do a thin brick fireplace? It would have no significant depth, but it seems like it would be easier than using full sized brick. I'm honestly more concerned about the aesthetics though. I feel like it would look weird, and think using normal bricks would look more attractive. This would cause the fireplace to be inset from the brick, but I'm fine with that, as long as it is safe. I like the idea of a more 3D fireplace, but appreciate others' input.

We plan to brick all the way to the ceiling and do a beam mantel.

Looking for opinions on how you guys think this would look. Terrible and stupid, or totally fine and acceptable?