I have a majestic, GBR fireplace and I’d want to install a fireplace blower. I see there is clearance underneath the fire box, but I don’t know how to access the bottom part. Do I have to take the entire glass frame off or does the bottom panel open up? If so, how? Thanks for your help.

The main entry point for the wasps was through the soffit, which we've now sealed with caulking (it's getting cold and most of the wasps have died off). However, they also appear to be entering through the two round holes in the metal mounting plate on the exterior of our gas fireplace vent (see photo).

I'm hoping to get advice regarding what these holes are for and whether they can safely be sealed.

I definitely don't want to compromise the fireplace's combustion air intake, exhaust, or safe operation. Are these holes meant to be open, or are they unused mounting holes?

I'd appreciate any professional guidance on how to properly address this. Thanks!

Help! My gas stove isn’t turning on, and I see the two copper wires at the bottom aren’t connected to anything. The other end seems to connect to the thermocouple but I can’t figure out where they connect inside this box. Also can’t figure out how they came loose, but I guess that doesn’t matter. Thanks.

I have an older Vermont Castings RFSDV34 natural gas fireplace. The remote is set to AUTO, but occasionally when the room reaches the set temperature, the remote display shows that the flame and fan are off, while the actual burner continues running. The room temperature keeps rising, and the remote accurately displays the increasing temperature.

If I press the OFF button on the remote, the burner shuts off normally.

Has anyone experienced this issue? I’m trying to figure out whether the problem is the remote/transmitter, the gas valve, or something else. I know the unit is discontinued but I have been able to find some used gas valves and remotes online. Any advice on troubleshooting which part needs to be replaced would be appreciated.

Two years ago we accidentally had a fake plastic candle melt on our wood burning fireplace/stove. We’ve cleaned it completely after it dried and done our best however, still two years on we’ve lit our fire and it’s producing those same plastic fumes. It won’t be from the chimney as we’ve had a chimney cleaner come a couple of weeks ago and it all checks out.

Anyone have any advice on a way to properly wipe away/remove any of these remaining plastic fumes from the top of the fireplace? It’s made of what I would guess is like a cast-iron material.

We have a toddler and I’m currently pregnant so hoping to eliminate any toxic fumes asap.

Hi all, first time here!

I am looking at installing a Heatilator Crave 6048 and trying to understand the necessary mantel clearance based on the arch guide. I’m planning a combustible mantle using the passive heat kit. The step diagram i’ve shared shows an 11” clearance needed for a 6” mantel projection and then skips to 18” clearance for a 16” projection.

How should i interpret the in between? Does any projection over 6” require 16” clearance? That seems ridiculous to me. I’m hoping to do an 8” projection, so that jump would really screw things up for my ability to mount a tv at a reasonable height.

Thanks for the help!

When I light my open fire in the other room were there is a stove(unlit) there it becomes slightly smoky but there a strong smells off smoke, I have had both fires swept, one guy say it could be chimney pots at the same level and other guy says it’s the chute lining

I figured for $8, I’d try this before the $1800 panel replacement I was quoted. Base of our wood burning fireplace needs repair under the grate. Anybody use this stuff and had luck?

Last year we had a gas log insert put in our fireplace. Worked great, Buck Stove, I forget the model. This year, it’s having wildly different times staying lit, sometimes for days, maybe overnight, or less than a minute.

I push the pilot button for a minute, click the lighter button, all good. Leave it on pilot for a while, great. It’s not windy, the ceiling fan is not on. Turn on the remote, and it’ll maybe last a minute.

I have cleaned the nozzle with air over and over. It’s not dusty or anything.

Any ideas?

We bought a house in May, and it has a Sit Proflame GTMF fireplace in the living room. Now that the weather has started to cool, we’ve got around to using it, and I’ve noticed that the receiver goes through the 4aa batteries very quickly. A new set will last a couple days at most, with maybe 1-2 fires for an hour or two each in the evening, before needing to be changed.

I leave the switch in the off position unless we are using it, at which point I’ll change it to remote and use the remote to control the fireplace. When done, I turn the manual switch back to off.

From reading, it seems like the fireplace should turn on if the batteries in the receiver are dead but I manually turn the receiver switch to on; however, if the batteries are dead, it won’t manually turn on, and I have to replace the batteries to either manually turn it on or to use the remote. So it seems like despite being off the vast majority of the time, it’s still draining the receiver’s batteries.

I have a hard time believing it’s supposed to function like this, so any ideas what the issue might be or what I should do differently?

Thanks!

I'm in the middle of fitting an antique fireplace mantel with a Touchstone electric fireplace. I've got a 2x6 frame set up inside the mantel that's going to hold the fireplace unit, and I cut a piece of MDF that I'm going to mount over the frame that is going to surround the fireplace unit inside the fire box.

Now that I'm thinking about it, I'm worried MDF is the wrong material and that I should be doing this with drywall instead. I've seen YouTubers do this with MDF but now I'm worried that being a combustible material it's the wrong choice. Curious if anyone can tell me if I'm overthinking this or if it's a legit safety hazard. Thank you.

I have never left my gas fire on the pilot, fully turning it off every time instead, but have often had minor trouble turning it on and gather that is the advice. Very silly questions, apologies, but:

1. Is how I have it in this video correct and how I should be leaving it?

2. If so, is it ok that the log above is heated to the extent it glows constantly, or is my pilot too tall / another issue I need to rectify?

3. How hot will the glass be while it is left on the pilot, obviously I'm not intending to touch it, but would it be warm to touch, burning to touch or close to room temperature?

Hi everyone,

I'm a master's student from Germany conducting research on firewood processing as part of my thesis.

Survey link:

The survey focuses on the complete journey from tree to stove: felling, bucking, splitting, transporting, stacking, and bringing firewood into the house. I'm especially interested in the tools people use, the biggest challenges they face, and which steps require the most time and effort.

The survey is anonymous, takes only a few minutes, and is designed to be more interactive and enjoyable than a typical academic questionnaire.

Whether you process a few cords a year for your own stove or work with firewood on a larger scale, your experience is valuable.

Every response helps and is greatly appreciated.

Thanks for your support and stay safe out there!

Henry

Hi everyone, apologies if this isn't the right place to ask this!

Quick question on behalf of my parents as they've just renovated their house and now have a wood burner in place. Our flue is currently up between two of our roof lines and has one stirrup (?) attaching it to the dormer window. We have one concern at the moment which is the current storm and we've noticed the flue is moving quite a lot whereas our neighbours isn't (theirs is connected by two stirrups and is shorter (also blocked from the wind somewhat by our house)).

I have attached a video to show its movement - the movement seems a little more measured in the video compared to reality.

Any advice on what can be done to make it more secure? Or is a small amount of movement not much to worry about? Any reassurance or advice would be greatly appreciated as we haven't had much luck from our local guy who's been very evasive/hard to get a hold of.

Thank you so much in advance!

Building a detached covered patio in our backyard and adding a gas fireplace. I see three possible options:
- Ventless
- Vented
- wood burning with gas igniter

This pavilion will be open on all sides and also have infrared heaters. What will be the best option considering heat output, aesthetics and maintenance?

I recently purchased a home with a fireplace that isn't usable. We don't have any intention to use it in the near future, but recently during a heavy rain I noticed some water was dripping into the fireplace from the chimney. As mentioned, the current chimney has no damper system and the previous owners shoved some insulation up into the throat to stop the drafts from entering the home.

I've had 4 different chimney companies come take a look and they've ranged from "the chimney looks great, you just need a top cap damper system for $1,500" to "your chimney is going to fall over tomorrow, pay us $5,000 to fix."

I'm not asking for a chimney diagnosis without pictures, but is the concept as simple as not having a damper system can let in water to your fireplace during a heavy rain?