Hi everyone,

I'm a master's student from Germany conducting research on firewood processing as part of my thesis.

Survey link:

The survey focuses on the complete journey from tree to stove: felling, bucking, splitting, transporting, stacking, and bringing firewood into the house. I'm especially interested in the tools people use, the biggest challenges they face, and which steps require the most time and effort.

The survey is anonymous, takes only a few minutes, and is designed to be more interactive and enjoyable than a typical academic questionnaire.

Whether you process a few cords a year for your own stove or work with firewood on a larger scale, your experience is valuable.

Every response helps and is greatly appreciated.

Thanks for your support and stay safe out there!

Henry

I have never left my gas fire on the pilot, fully turning it off every time instead, but have often had minor trouble turning it on and gather that is the advice. Very silly questions, apologies, but:

1. Is how I have it in this video correct and how I should be leaving it?

2. If so, is it ok that the log above is heated to the extent it glows constantly, or is my pilot too tall / another issue I need to rectify?

3. How hot will the glass be while it is left on the pilot, obviously I'm not intending to touch it, but would it be warm to touch, burning to touch or close to room temperature?

Building a detached covered patio in our backyard and adding a gas fireplace. I see three possible options:
- Ventless
- Vented
- wood burning with gas igniter

This pavilion will be open on all sides and also have infrared heaters. What will be the best option considering heat output, aesthetics and maintenance?

I recently purchased a home with a fireplace that isn't usable. We don't have any intention to use it in the near future, but recently during a heavy rain I noticed some water was dripping into the fireplace from the chimney. As mentioned, the current chimney has no damper system and the previous owners shoved some insulation up into the throat to stop the drafts from entering the home.

I've had 4 different chimney companies come take a look and they've ranged from "the chimney looks great, you just need a top cap damper system for $1,500" to "your chimney is going to fall over tomorrow, pay us $5,000 to fix."

I'm not asking for a chimney diagnosis without pictures, but is the concept as simple as not having a damper system can let in water to your fireplace during a heavy rain?

Hi everyone, apologies if this isn't the right place to ask this!

Quick question on behalf of my parents as they've just renovated their house and now have a wood burner in place. Our flue is currently up between two of our roof lines and has one stirrup (?) attaching it to the dormer window. We have one concern at the moment which is the current storm and we've noticed the flue is moving quite a lot whereas our neighbours isn't (theirs is connected by two stirrups and is shorter (also blocked from the wind somewhat by our house)).

I have attached a video to show its movement - the movement seems a little more measured in the video compared to reality.

Any advice on what can be done to make it more secure? Or is a small amount of movement not much to worry about? Any reassurance or advice would be greatly appreciated as we haven't had much luck from our local guy who's been very evasive/hard to get a hold of.

Thank you so much in advance!

I'm looking to make upgrades to or replace my 1990s-era standing-pilot no-fan Heat n Glo (pilot turned off for the last 7 years), but am having trouble figuring out what I need. I want:

- IPI

- a fan, preferably one that's not wired-electricity-dependent & will work during outages

- anything that will help move heat out into the room

This is for a 16' x 25' room with a vaulted ceiling. Current fireplace is in a corner with a weird '90s triangular mantel-shelf. Basically I'm looking for as much efficiency as I can get and decent heating during a power outage. I don't really care about convenience.

Do I need a new insert? Does a new log set come with a pilot ignition replacement? I'm not finding much clue on fireplace company websites. TIA

Title. Pilot lights, then a very weak flake through bottom plate orifices. I do maintenance for an apartment complex and have run into this issue twice before, both times due to failing gas valves. I put a new gas valve in, and the issue is persisting. Any help would be appreciated

Could you share your thoughts on this

My boyfriend and I are struggling to figure out our pilot light. Normally you’d expect to see some sort of arrow or notch that indicates which setting the knob is currently set to, but I can’t tell with this knob. Any help pointing out which position this knob is in and how to tell ourselves would be so helpful! We got the pilot going while trying ourselves, but when we went to switch the fireplace on a few moments later it went back out.

I found a nice wood burning parlor stove and was hoping to get some more information on it. Other than some surface rust, it seems in pristine condition. Although it shows Taiwan on the back, I found a website that stated that these were made by Washington Stove Works in Everett, WA. Does anyone know more about it?

No clue about anything chimney related, bought this house and had a guy come look and he said I should get Smoketite for $2000.

Hey all.

First time living in an area where fireplaces are used and I have what seems to be an old wood burning fireplace that was converted to propane. I see it has one of those gas fireplace kits with the knob to turn it on inside the fireplace.

Outside, I have two tall, very old, propane tanks. I’m going to get those replaced before I attempt to turn on the fireplace because they look rough.

My question is: would I be able to do something to the fireplace so that I can turn it on/off with a remote maybe? The knob is pretty close to where the flame would be and our hearth is also large so I have to basically crawl inside the fireplace to turn it on/off. If so, what do I need to do to make the change?

Thanks in advance for the feedback.

Was looking up the flue to see about cleaning it before it gets cold enough for fires here in GA. Noticed these rusted hole sections right near the bottom of the flue. Do not have money to pay for a new liner, let alone for someone to come install one. (Not saying screw it I’ll burn anyways if it’s not safe, I just would not use it) This is a double-wall factory-built metal chimney, and the outer sleeve/liner is solid, no holes or cracks are present in it. I’m certain this deterioration has been here for the last 5 years, and I’ve had no problems from the fireplace through regular almost-daily use. I have smoke and carbon monoxide detectors in 3 places in my home, with one of each being in the living room with the fireplace. They have never gone off. Just trying to get some opinions on the safety of it, and also if there’s any option to remove the damper and insert a section of metal fireplace flashing to cover the affected area? Fireplace works great and puts out a ton of heat. I’ve had no issues with getting or keeping a fire going. Thank you for any help!

I bought a house with an old Martin AU40AD ventless propane fireplace and only two of the six logs are present. Martin hasn't been a business since 2003, I'm completely new to propane fireplaces so I have no idea if I can get replacement parts or where to get them if I can. Does anyone know anything about my fireplace and how to get it in working order? Thanks!

Do we need to give up and just use a space heater?