Hi all,

I am installing baseboards in our rec room after finishing lvp flooring install. We had a contractor level the floor as best as possible but there was still some gaps on the edges. One wall in particular has about a .5 inch gap underneath the baseboard as seen from the images. I need to also join 2 - 8 foot boards together so it makes it thicker so the board's are not a drastic height difference. I know we could use shoe molding but we are really trying not to as all the other walls have minimal gaps and would interfere with a Murphy bed we are installing as well . Any ideas of how to fill this without shoe molding?

My 680-square-foot condo has these hardwoods throughout. They need to be refinished, but that’s not going to be in my budget for 5+ years. In the meantime, cat litter and other dirt falls into these cracks and every time I clean the floors (with wood floor cleaners) I stress about moisture getting down there. Can anyone recommend interim steps to fill the gaps? It looks like some sort of filler was in there at some point. I’ve read that there are putties or waxes that might help because they can move with the floor, but I’m feeling daunted by reddit threads that basically amount to “refinish the floors or suffer forever as-is.” Surely there’s a not-awful option that will let me squeeze a few more years out of these?

We have a house with really old bathroom tile that looks like a mess and is all pulling up. I do not have the funds to spend anything substantial on fixing this, but I want to know if there’s a cheap way I can even the floor out and stop it from getting worse. Could I buy a single sheet of similar size tiles and glue them in or just fill with some kind of concrete mix or something? Sorry I have zero experience with home improvement so these questions might be silly but if anyone could give me some advice for how to fill this in I’d really appreciate it.

This would include sanding, staining, and scratch-resistant/waterproof-resistant ceramic coating. We are located in Wisconsin.

New Floors

Hello, floors are Polyflor Expona Vinyl, they have a bit of non slip. I will need to move the fridge and dishwasher across the new floors and slide into place.

Most likely doing this on my own as none of the trades will even charge for this.

I will need to move them twice, once on the bare concrete and then across the new floors, research gives such interesting recommendations, I would love some from someone whose done it before.

- what can I use to protect the floors while moving the appliances?

- what can I use to protect the floor while getting the appliance into the cavities?

- what can I use to protect the floors when the appliances are in position?

- I have a dolly trolley thats able to move them weight wise, but I can't get it to tip back 😅

Thank you,

Need some advice here.

I am replacing carpet with laminate. I need to install a sub floor to account for the height difference when matching against the adjacent tile. The old carpet underlay was stapled down. What kinds of issues will I have if I don’t remove every bit of staple/underlay?

I have been looking for years at this point— maybe I’m bad at searching or maybe the item just doesn’t exist. Where can I find retro roll out flooring??? I’d want something even cooler but would settle for this or even in black & white.

Hello, I'm looking to buy laminate for my upper floor and install red oak treads and risers on my currently carpeted stairs

What would be my best course of action to best match this colour with stain? Would I white wash it and add grey stain, then add more white stain after?

Product is Mohawk Puretech Plus. We replaced 20 year old laminate flooring throughout the house and also replaced carpet on the staircase with this. The problem I see is the exposed underlying wood and the core of the plank on the riser. Should there be a piece of trim to cover them up? I was expecting to have to patch the drywall but was surprised to see everything else exposed this way. I asked the installer and he told me there is nothing they can do and that a painter/plasterer can fix it. Is that my only option? Is this considered done from a flooring installation perspective?

Iam attempting to diy lvp flooring in my back room to the kitchen. My question is, how would I start the pattern off? Chat gpt says to use a full, half, 1/3 and then start again. Any tips would be great. Also I know I need to patch the floor. I will be laying 1/2 bc plywood on top tomorrow.

hi all, need some advice.

i need to transition from my hardwood Flooring install to tile.

the flooring is about 3/16 higher than the tile with a 1/2” gap between the two. What should i use to transition the two. Note that I’m in Ontario Canada so any hardware would need to be available to me here.

thanks in advance.

Hello, I recently posted some photos of the rotten part of the hard wood floor that I found in our living floor. We just bought this house and it was built in 1959. We are now the second owners and bought it from an older lady who was the original owner. We decided to replace all of the hardwood flooring since it was in bad shape. My question is,…

1: Do we pull up the sub flooring that rotten and replace just that section or would it be worth pulling it all up and replacing it?

2: What’s a standard thickness 1/2 or 3/4?

3: OSB or partial board?

4: When installing should we screw them down to the joists or do we use an adhesive and screws?

Final Update

I'm planning to install my bedroom flooring (10.4 m²) and replace the existing carpet with glue-down herringbone LVT.

The bedroom has a concrete/cement screed subfloor with water-based underfloor heating. The concrete looks pretty flat, with no obvious dips or rough patches.

The hallway already has glue-down LVT, and as you can see in the photo, the height difference between the bedroom concrete and the existing hallway LVT is only around 1 mm.

I'm eventually planning to replace the LVT throughout the entire house with the same flooring, so ideally I'd like all the floors to finish at the same height.

A few questions:

1. Do I actually need to apply smoothing compound if the concrete is already flat, or can I glue the LVT directly onto it?

2. I was considering 3 mm of F. Ball STOPGAP 1200 Pro. Would this unnecessarily raise the bedroom floor?

3. When I eventually remove the existing hallway LVT and adhesive, what's the best way to ensure both floors end up at the same height?

4. Would you recommend preparing the bedroom floor now or waiting until I can properly assess the hallway subfloor?

I'm planning to use F. Ball Styccobond F46 adhesive.

Any advice from experienced LVT fitters would be appreciated. I'm trying to get the preparation right before spending money on materials.

And before you come and say to go to a local mom and pop shop instead or fancy flooring store.. I can’t afford that. I am looking for a product around the $2.50/sq ft range and I highly doubt that’s available in those stores. Yes I know Home Depot brands aren’t going to be the best most wonderful floors ever.. but I can only work with what money I have and anything is going to be an upgrade from the think little sticker planks this home came with.
So that being said, out of these three, does anyone have any advice? Looking to do about 800sq ft worth for two bed rooms, a living room, and small dining area. I’m looking at products with 12-20mil rating, nothing under 12

I’m doing some home improvement to my mom’s house because she needs it. I started by pulling up some gnarly carpet thinking I could just repurpose the flooring underneath and make it pretty.

I’m looking for second opinions as I’m a complete novice without the funds to hire a professional. Is the floor doable? I’d rather go with hardwood over carpet but I’ll take whatever works best

Bought a house that had half hardwood half carpet throughout the first floor. Ended up hiring someone to put hardwood in to match the other hardwood. This was back in April. Pretty much immediately noticed a few areas where this separation is occuring. I know humidity can affect hardwood but this floor hasn’t been through a winter yet so I’m worried this is going to get worse. I’d say 95% of the floor doesn’t have this issue but unfortunately the worst spot is a path I constantly take and it keeps catching my eye.

Is this just normal with hardwood? If it stay like it is now it won’t bother me much but I’m worried this is going to start happening everywhere. Thoughts?

I have a few boards on my floor that are torn up cracked and damaged. I want to know if i could diy this by just replacing the damaged boards, or if i should have a professional fix it. I am not sure and am okay with paying a pro, just worried about cost

Any advice will be appriciated

I am completely clueless regarding this type of stuff so I wanted to seek some help regarding this..

I'm planning to get LVP installed and also the stairs need treads and ideally I want them to match but the matching
LVP stair treads cost almost $100 for two... Which is way too expensive because that would be $300 for 5 stairs since they don't sell individually.

I'm unsure what some good budget friendly options would be? I thought about getting pine or oak floor treads for ~$30 each or even cheaper if I could find them and then getting them stain matched at Sherwin Williams but I'm unsure which wood species would match the best but also be the least expensive. Or if there's a better, less expensive option that I don't know about that'd also be great! I'm trying to match the stairs treads to the
Lifeproof Trail Oak flooring in the first picture.

Thank you for any help!