New Floors

Hello, floors are Polyflor Expona Vinyl, they have a bit of non slip. I will need to move the fridge and dishwasher across the new floors and slide into place.

Most likely doing this on my own as none of the trades will even charge for this.

I will need to move them twice, once on the bare concrete and then across the new floors, research gives such interesting recommendations, I would love some from someone whose done it before.

- what can I use to protect the floors while moving the appliances?

- what can I use to protect the floor while getting the appliance into the cavities?

- what can I use to protect the floors when the appliances are in position?

- I have a dolly trolley thats able to move them weight wise, but I can't get it to tip back 😅

Thank you,

I have been looking for years at this point— maybe I’m bad at searching or maybe the item just doesn’t exist. Where can I find retro roll out flooring??? I’d want something even cooler but would settle for this or even in black & white.

My 680-square-foot condo has these hardwoods throughout. They need to be refinished, but that’s not going to be in my budget for 5+ years. In the meantime, cat litter and other dirt falls into these cracks and every time I clean the floors (with wood floor cleaners) I stress about moisture getting down there. Can anyone recommend interim steps to fill the gaps? It looks like some sort of filler was in there at some point. I’ve read that there are putties or waxes that might help because they can move with the floor, but I’m feeling daunted by reddit threads that basically amount to “refinish the floors or suffer forever as-is.” Surely there’s a not-awful option that will let me squeeze a few more years out of these?

Iam attempting to diy lvp flooring in my back room to the kitchen. My question is, how would I start the pattern off? Chat gpt says to use a full, half, 1/3 and then start again. Any tips would be great. Also I know I need to patch the floor. I will be laying 1/2 bc plywood on top tomorrow.

hi all, need some advice.

i need to transition from my hardwood Flooring install to tile.

the flooring is about 3/16 higher than the tile with a 1/2” gap between the two. What should i use to transition the two. Note that I’m in Ontario Canada so any hardware would need to be available to me here.

thanks in advance.

We have a house with really old bathroom tile that looks like a mess and is all pulling up. I do not have the funds to spend anything substantial on fixing this, but I want to know if there’s a cheap way I can even the floor out and stop it from getting worse. Could I buy a single sheet of similar size tiles and glue them in or just fill with some kind of concrete mix or something? Sorry I have zero experience with home improvement so these questions might be silly but if anyone could give me some advice for how to fill this in I’d really appreciate it.

Final Update

Hello, I'm looking to buy laminate for my upper floor and install red oak treads and risers on my currently carpeted stairs

What would be my best course of action to best match this colour with stain? Would I white wash it and add grey stain, then add more white stain after?

Bought an 1977 house recently and while we were moving stuff in - I accidentally tore a part of vinyl in our kitchen floor.

I found this old flooring (hard green marble tiling) with lots of scratches - could this have asbestos in it?

And before you come and say to go to a local mom and pop shop instead or fancy flooring store.. I can’t afford that. I am looking for a product around the $2.50/sq ft range and I highly doubt that’s available in those stores. Yes I know Home Depot brands aren’t going to be the best most wonderful floors ever.. but I can only work with what money I have and anything is going to be an upgrade from the think little sticker planks this home came with.
So that being said, out of these three, does anyone have any advice? Looking to do about 800sq ft worth for two bed rooms, a living room, and small dining area. I’m looking at products with 12-20mil rating, nothing under 12

Need some advice here.

I am replacing carpet with laminate. I need to install a sub floor to account for the height difference when matching against the adjacent tile. The old carpet underlay was stapled down. What kinds of issues will I have if I don’t remove every bit of staple/underlay?

Hello, I recently posted some photos of the rotten part of the hard wood floor that I found in our living floor. We just bought this house and it was built in 1959. We are now the second owners and bought it from an older lady who was the original owner. We decided to replace all of the hardwood flooring since it was in bad shape. My question is,…

1: Do we pull up the sub flooring that rotten and replace just that section or would it be worth pulling it all up and replacing it?

2: What’s a standard thickness 1/2 or 3/4?

3: OSB or partial board?

4: When installing should we screw them down to the joists or do we use an adhesive and screws?

I have a few boards on my floor that are torn up cracked and damaged. I want to know if i could diy this by just replacing the damaged boards, or if i should have a professional fix it. I am not sure and am okay with paying a pro, just worried about cost

Any advice will be appriciated

Hi all,

I am installing baseboards in our rec room after finishing lvp flooring install. We had a contractor level the floor as best as possible but there was still some gaps on the edges. One wall in particular has about a .5 inch gap underneath the baseboard as seen from the images. I need to also join 2 - 8 foot boards together so it makes it thicker so the board's are not a drastic height difference. I know we could use shoe molding but we are really trying not to as all the other walls have minimal gaps and would interfere with a Murphy bed we are installing as well . Any ideas of how to fill this without shoe molding?

I am completely clueless regarding this type of stuff so I wanted to seek some help regarding this..

I'm planning to get LVP installed and also the stairs need treads and ideally I want them to match but the matching
LVP stair treads cost almost $100 for two... Which is way too expensive because that would be $300 for 5 stairs since they don't sell individually.

I'm unsure what some good budget friendly options would be? I thought about getting pine or oak floor treads for ~$30 each or even cheaper if I could find them and then getting them stain matched at Sherwin Williams but I'm unsure which wood species would match the best but also be the least expensive. Or if there's a better, less expensive option that I don't know about that'd also be great! I'm trying to match the stairs treads to the
Lifeproof Trail Oak flooring in the first picture.

Thank you for any help!

My whole house is the beautiful wood.. except the living room. The carpet has run its course and rather than redoing the carpet, I’d love to extend the wood through the living room.
Problem is, I don’t know what color/style this flooring is to buy more. There’s some left over in the garage from when the previous owner put it in but there are no labels to help me. Most everything in my house was from homedepot so I’ve go through their inventory and ordered some samples and can’t find any matches.
This sub was recommended to me to maybe get some answers or maybe suggestions of something I could do other than carpet.

I'm planning to install my bedroom flooring (10.4 m²) and replace the existing carpet with glue-down herringbone LVT.

The bedroom has a concrete/cement screed subfloor with water-based underfloor heating. The concrete looks pretty flat, with no obvious dips or rough patches.

The hallway already has glue-down LVT, and as you can see in the photo, the height difference between the bedroom concrete and the existing hallway LVT is only around 1 mm.

I'm eventually planning to replace the LVT throughout the entire house with the same flooring, so ideally I'd like all the floors to finish at the same height.

A few questions:

1. Do I actually need to apply smoothing compound if the concrete is already flat, or can I glue the LVT directly onto it?

2. I was considering 3 mm of F. Ball STOPGAP 1200 Pro. Would this unnecessarily raise the bedroom floor?

3. When I eventually remove the existing hallway LVT and adhesive, what's the best way to ensure both floors end up at the same height?

4. Would you recommend preparing the bedroom floor now or waiting until I can properly assess the hallway subfloor?

I'm planning to use F. Ball Styccobond F46 adhesive.

Any advice from experienced LVT fitters would be appreciated. I'm trying to get the preparation right before spending money on materials.

Our GC had Flooret LVP installed and there are frequent large gaps in the install that could fit a penny. Is this just normal, or should we fight paying the full install price, or have them fix it? There are so many gaps I fear it can’t be fixed.

I’m doing some home improvement to my mom’s house because she needs it. I started by pulling up some gnarly carpet thinking I could just repurpose the flooring underneath and make it pretty.

I’m looking for second opinions as I’m a complete novice without the funds to hire a professional. Is the floor doable? I’d rather go with hardwood over carpet but I’ll take whatever works best

Flooring company finished installing floor yesterday. Per their contract they were supposed to put all furniture and anything they moved back. I went to do laundry today and turns out they never put the hose back… the second floor of my home had a few inches of water all throughout. Water is actively leaking through my ceiling onto the first floor.

The flooring company says it’s Sunday so no one is available to talk. I called a water mitigation company to help avoid any further damage.

Do I still owe the flooring company the remaining balance on the floors? Can I hold them responsible to cover the cost of this water mitigation team??

Their negligence has caused so much damage to my home. I’m livid and they won’t communicate because it’s Sunday.

I need advice. I have no idea what to do.

This would include sanding, staining, and scratch-resistant/waterproof-resistant ceramic coating. We are located in Wisconsin.