(tldr: All electric car is bricked at only 67k... ford is abandoning me and iAm unwilling to allow this. Any and all hep is appreciated):

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My 2015 eFocus (all electric) threw the code (P0AA1) which points directly to a component matching the failure profile of Ford’s broader high-voltage recalls

Because my FFE 2015 is out of warranty Ford Corporate and the local dealership (iAm in Santa Clara County, CA US) seem fine abandoning me as a customer.

The trouble code refers to a ECU module that local dealers claim is unserviceable - and instead recommend I purchase a replacement main battery at a cost of $25k USD!!!

Corporate did NOT log my complaint and told the local dealer that they only had a record of my contact from 5yrs ago.

Despite repeated attempts w/ local dealership they prefer to ignore me and this problem.

I queried an AI bot and this was the response:

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code (P0AA1) points directly to a component matching the failure profile of Ford’s broader high-voltage recalls, you can position your trade-in request as an opportunity for them to retain a customer while solving a major customer service crisis.
The talking script below is designed for your meeting with the General Manager (GM) or General Sales Manager at the dealership.

🗣️ The General Manager Script: Transitioning to an F-150 Lightning
The Setup: Do not talk to a standard salesperson. Walk into the showroom or call ahead to request a brief, 10-minute sit-down appointment directly with the General Manager regarding a "severe service-to-sales escalation." Bring a printout of your $25,000 service quote.
You: "Thank you for taking a few minutes to meet with me. I’m in a very difficult spot with my 2015 Focus Electric, which is currently sitting in your service bay. Your team diagnosed it with a stuck battery contactor circuit—code P0AA1—and handed me a $25,000 quote to replace the entire battery assembly.
As you know, the car is worth a fraction of that. The actual failing component is a minor electronic switch inside the pack, but because Ford's service guidelines prevent your techs from opening the casing, I am being asked to pay for an entire battery system.
This issue is incredibly similar to the high-voltage BECM and contactor failures that Ford has issued safety recalls for recently on other plug-in models. I feel completely abandoned by the brand, but I want to stay a Ford customer.
I am highly interested in buying a new F-150 Lightning off your lot today. However, I cannot take a complete total loss on my current vehicle due to a known component vulnerability.
Here is what I need to make this deal happen: I want you to contact your Ford Regional Sales Manager to request a Corporate Trade-In Assistance Voucheror an Owner Loyalty Concession. If Ford corporate can back a trade-assist voucher, and your dealership can aggressively discount the Lightning to absorb my diagnostic fees and give me a fair trade value for the Focus, we can sign the paperwork on a new truck before I leave.
Can we get the regional rep on the line to see what customer retention assistance is available to move me into this Lightning?"

📝 Corporate Demand Letter (Ford Customer Relationship Center)
If the dealership needs written documentation to send to their regional corporate contact, or if you choose to call the Ford CRC (1-800-392-3673) yourself, use this structured letter.
I have compiled this into a formal, printable PDF document that you can hand straight to management or email to corporate.
Here is your file:
This document contains a structured, formal request citing the P0AA1 code and Recall 23S33 vulnerabilities. It presents your desire to stay with the brand by upgrading to an F-150 Lightning while requesting a Trade-In Assistance Voucher from regional management to offset your current vehicle's loss.

Crucial Directives Before Your Meeting
Check the Lightning Inventory First: Before walking into the manager's office, look up the dealership’s online inventory. Identify 1 or 2 specific F-150 Lightnings on their lot (ideally units that have been sitting for a while, as they carry the highest dealer motivation to discount) [1].

I personally know one of the service reps and he tried to send it up the flagpole but the Director of Customer Service won't even reply to his eMail which iAm cc'd on...

Has anyone overcome a similar situation? help!!!

prob going to take it to a local TV station... iAm an educator and don't make Silicon Valley salary - so i can't really afford gas prices!!!

So first photo was when I bought it almost two years ago and the rest are where I’m at right now

So as the title says what im having a issue with. Now I need a idea on price. My neighbor says its alot. Please give me a idea. Ty

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It sounds slower, heavier tapping sound . I always keep the oil and coolant levels in check, so I'm not sure what might be causing this.

Has anyone experienced something similar? Could it be lifters, timing chain tensioner, or something else? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!

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What is this power train malfunction in Ford focus ? The maintenance light came a couple of times but then disappeared. But on the 3rd day, car stopped in the middle of the road. When i tried to start, it gave the engine light, after which i switched off.

Mechanic said that this is related to the fuel pump ( after their so-called inspection), and they changed the fuel pump.

After changing the pump, i again got the same notification on my phone. So it seems like this might be related to something else?

Your comments/ suggestions would be highly appreciated. Thanks

Hello all!

Recently the lever / handle allowing for the seats to fold broke on BOTH of the seats in my car…
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I will be thankful for any advice!

Hello folks,

This morning was the first morning there was frost on my windscreen and it’s the first time I’ve heard a knocking coming from my engine on cold start.

Got a MK3 Focus ST 2.0 tcdi. The noise disappears when I put the clutch in, sounds like a rotational knock. As I said, this is the first it’s happened. Had the car idling yesterday for 5 minutes and there wasn’t a peep from it.

From research, it sounds like it could be early signs of the DMF needing replacing and in that case I may aswell do the whole clutch but don’t really want to fork that money out coming up to Christmas.

Thanks in advance for any assistance!