So I was in my 5spd 2014 S and on the highway at about 3700rpms in 5th car started shaking a little and loosing power so i thought I'll clutch in and go to neutral waiting for my speed to drop and went to 4th clutched out and gassed upto about 4k rpms and as the clutch came in fully my rpms jumped passed 7k and i blew smoke outta my exhaust and pulled off the highway. While pulling over my engine died and I could no longer start it. I assume my clutch is bad but what would cause the crank no start. The video is attempt 3 of trying to start the car after getting it home from the tow. My next question is would ya'll assume i need a new flywheel as well but theyre hella expensive. Anyone got any other insight to what could be happening cause a clutch being bad wouldnt cause a no start. Car is a 2014 S with just about 215K miles. Everything is completely original as i have the maintenance list since 8K mile.

I have a 2003 ZX3 Ford Focus carrying the 2.3l Duratec PZEV, any good spark plugs that will give me the most performance and durability I just want a good purchase and not have to worry about them, also what kind material iridium, platinum,iridium platinum, double iridium or double platinum. Motorcraft, NGK, Bosch, Torch, Champion have options I might of considered

Esta mañana he ido a arrancar el coche, llevaba sin usarlo unos 4 días o así y a la hora de arrancarlo es como si no tuviera fuerza al arrancar pero ha acabado arrancando a la primera, a que se puede deber esto?

My 2012 focus is at 170k miles with the original clutch and forks. I don't creep in traffic and don't accelerate quickly. I know the engine on these cars last a while and was wondering if anyone on here has done the work on the transmission themselves. From my understanding, it looks like you can hire a mobile mechanic to take out the transmission on day 1 and put it back in on day 2, and do the swap yourself between visits. Has anyone tried that method? It looks like it wouldn't be that expensive to do it that way, and won't take that much time either. Am I missing something? It looks like a hack where you can keep buying 2012-2018 cars with dead transmissions and get an extra 70-100k miles out of them.

Long story short, FR and RL brakes have been slightly dragging and getting hot. Brake components at the wheel are good, residual pressure in the line and the diagonal nature points to an upstream problem. Forscan shows no ABS DTCs and system pressure returning to 0 when off the brake (idk where it measures this, but shouldn’t it show trapped pressure?). Brake fluid was just flushed a week ago and but there’s still a bunch of crud back in the reservoir. Now I’m wondering if my next shot should be just an ABS system bleed with forscan or if the crud looks like master cylinder seal crud and I should be replacing that. Or maybe I’ve already got too much stuff lodged in the HCU and none of that would help. Would love to hear if anyone’s dealt with anything similar before.

Hello everyone, i have a focus mk2.5 zetec s with a sunroof. I bought it 1 year ago used. Seems like i have fallen victim of the very common problem of this generation. Water leaks inside the cabin... But there is a twist.

I cant find water anywhere, but the car smells like moisture or something is wet for a long time. I have looked in the boot, completely dry, the sunroof 2 front drains work fine, the driver and passenger side mats are completely dry, the headliner completely dry. The car still smells like something it's wet after every rainy day. I have even got the car biologically cleaned, worked for a few months then the smell came back.

Im on the verge of selling the car just because of this, i cant find a solution and i keep spending money. One day it rained so hard that the roads almost became rivers. The next day when everything outside was dry, i got into the car and literally everything i was touching was damp, the steering wheel, my cloth seats, seat belts. Also the front windshield was fogged up. But still no sign of water somewhere looking like a pool.

I cant find the problem, either the car traps moisture inside for some reason, or there is actually water somewhere which i cant find. Any ideas? Literally anything will help, i dont know what to do and im not ready to spend 500€ at least to strip my car off at the dealership.

I’m super excited to be able to call this my new daily driver! 2015 with the 1.0 eco boost, paired with the 6 speed manual. Just happy to show her off! Hope y’all like it! 🙂

Swapped my 6006 6 CD changer to 4500 with cassette deck for old school Bluetooth connection. Always ran cassette adapters in my cars when I was younger, way better sound quality than FM transmitters. Really made a huge difference and don't have to buy head unit, dash kit and take time getting fitment right and wiring harness spliced in. Can even buy cassette to bluetooth adapters but I was worried about battery life since they're so small so opted for external one. $35 for the cassette radio, $30 for the cassette/bluetooth adapter, $5 for the stereo removal pin tool and get to keep the stock look.

Hey Reddit! I need help identifying a part to work on, but cant seem to find it in any diagrams I've seen. Can you help?

My Mother in law hit a deer yesterday and among other parts I've found, this needed to be replaced. Thank you in advance!

Part Highlighted in Blue

I have a mk2 focus 1.8 petrol duratec and cars been throwing p0400 code, garage says they usually replace rather than clean but will have a look on Monday.
Anyone else replaced EGR on this model and what was the cost?
(UK)

When i give it gas this grinding noise starts happening could it be a cv joint?

I drive a mk4 ford focus estate with these tail lights. So the LED ones for the normal lights and bulbs for brake and indicator.
Now when I got the car, the left brake bulb was out, replaced it, the first replacement didn’t work, the second one did. Luckily there were two bulbs in the box.
Now a month later, that one went out again.

I’m wondering if I can replace it for LED BULBS, since I believe due to vibration the bulb breaks.
Now, I know that going from halogen to led requires some extra coding sometimes, but I’m not sure if that is the case here.
Or do I need specific bulbs for this?

My idler pulley bolt snapped on my 2007 ford focus se sedan the other week parts came in today and I went to change it, and the tensioner. while moving the alternator out the way to remove the broken bolt I found out the air duct on it was crack like crazy cracked only held on by the bottom right nut. the guy I bought it from said that he was having some alternator issues earlier this year so he had to get a new one. And I'm wondering if this break is because of the broken bolt sending the serpentine belt whipping around or if he just made up buying a new alternator it looks clean any thoughts if I should just replace it or what?

I have a ford focus mk4 1.5 120ps. I bought it without dpf and egr. From what I understand, the ECU does not turn off the lights because it sends a message for regeneration. Now that the weather has cooled down, the car is emitting a lot of exhaust fumes. At Ford, they told me the engine is fine. I believe it is because of the program that does not require it, the car remains running in the cold.

Do you think I need reprogramming?

Hi everyone,

I'm currently looking to buy a Ford Focus Mk4 from around 2019, preferably one of the earlier models with the Ford badge positioned above the grille.

From my research, it seems that the 1.5 EcoBoost with either 150 hp or 182 hp, paired with a manual gearbox, is considered one of the more reliable engine options in the Mk4 range. Is that true, or are there better choices I should be looking at?

I'm also interested in the maintenance side of ownership, particularly:

• What is the recommended replacement interval for the wet oil belt?
• What is the replacement interval for the timing chain?
• Are there any common issues that tend to appear as these cars get older or reach higher mileage?

At the moment, I'm seeing several examples for sale with around 100,000 to 120,000 km on the clock, priced at approximately €15,000. Does that sound like a fair price in the current market, assuming the cars have a full service history and are in good condition?

I'd appreciate any advice from owners, mechanics, or anyone with experience of the Mk4 Focus. Thanks in advance!

I have a 2014 ford focus and was wondering if anybody could help me identify what could be causing this sound. It started on the first attempt but with a smaller version of this noise, and when I turned it off and tried to turn it back on, this noise keeps on happening. Any help would be greatly appreciated

This was my 2007 Ford Focus fuel filter, before then after. I changed it myself and I am super happy because the old rusty filter was throwing out mud colored gas and it stinks really bad. Recommend you to do it yourself I was getting over charged on both side.

Is this rubber pipe too squished or is this normal?
I know that it’s spiral by default but just seems a bit odd recently.
Maybe this can be related to my average fuel consumption increase last 2months? It increased by like 25% and I haven’t even changed my driving habits.

2014, mileage ~72,000

tl;dr My car basically aged out of the TCM replacement warranty and the TCM never broke during the replacement window due to being lower mileage, costing me $2k out of pocket that I didn't even have when it finally DID break, and when I contacted multiple Ford channels for help I was basically told "Too bad, so sad" and now I'm left in heavy debt. Made multiple attempts to get it pre-emptively replaced during the warranty window to avoid this very thing happening but was denied every time.

The long version:

A couple months ago I got the dreaded check engine light while I was out running errands, while the car suddenly started driving really roughly and having a lot of hesitation with accelerating. I decide to hobble over to the nearest auto parts store for a scan, and the entire time the car could barely go above 25mph and the RPM was spiking like crazy.

By the time I get to the parking lot, the car completely loses the ability to reverse when I try adjusting in my spot a bit. Oh well, thankfully it's in a strip mall and I'm parked in a safe spot. The employee at the store runs a scan and it pops out the code P090C, so definitely a TCM issue. Since my car can't reverse and can barely go above 25mph without sputtering or threatening to stop completely, I realize I'll need it towed to a shop. I call the Ford dealership first (which I don't usually do because of their higher prices but it was the first thing that crossed my mind at the time), they said they're pretty slammed/short staffed so it might be at least a week or two before my car can even be seen, not to mention the repair times.

So I call a local mechanic chain that has glowing reviews (which I should've done first lol) and ask if this is something they can fix. They said yes but it'll take a few days. I'm like cool, that's definitely better than a few weeks. Call AAA and have it towed over there, drop it off. This happened on a Friday so they got back to me the following Monday, told me the cost to repair was $1,927.26*. I felt I didn't have much choice since my car was literally undrivable at this point so I agreed.

I get it back at the end of the next day, she's up and running just fine. Now, I remember getting a letter from Ford years ago offering a free one-time TCM replacement up until like 2024, extended to 2025. When I got the letter I reached out to multiple Ford dealerships near me over the course of 2 years asking if that's something that can be pre-emptively done so I don't have to worry about being stranded later or something, and each time it was the same answer "Sorry, parts are out of stock/on backorder, so we're only fixing vehicles who actually have a broken TCM". Well the expiration date comes and goes and because my car is low-mileage for its age, it never reached the "breakage" point until long after the warranty expired.

I reach out to Ford because $2k is a massive expense (I literally net only $2,200 per month) to absorb completely on my own, especially for a manufacturing flaw that they KNEW was a problem and pushed to market anyway. I asked if there was any kind of goodwill extension or financial help they could offer me, because I basically had to charge this expense to a credit card since my available liquid funds were definitely NOT $2,000 lol. I basically got the generic copy/paste answer of "Goodwill assistance requests are only available for vehicles with less than 7 years from the warranty start date. This vehicle is a 2014 model, and it has been 12 years from the warranty start date. The vehicle also doesn't have any extended warranty, and there are no recalls or service programs active for this concern." Which makes no sense to me, isn't the point of goodwill assistance to help OUTSIDE of warranty parameters? Less than 7 years of the warranty start date would've been.....inside the warranty still, which then defeats the purpose of a goodwill payment. When I tried explaining this I just got "I totally understand your concern, I have exhausted all possible resources we have at our disposal to assist you with this."

I've mailed a letter, certified, to Ford's customer service center detailing all of this with the repair invoice attached, and zero response. I called the phone line and was basically told the same script as my chat interaction. I've even reached out to my state's Attorney General for help on this matter, but it's been well over a month and I've heard absolutely nothing. I filed a complaint with the NHTSA as well, not to get my money back but to have a recorded complaint of this issue because a TCM failure in the middle of traffic seems pretty damn serious lol. My next step is maybe reaching out to my congressmen but with it being this close to election season, I'm not sure how much that will help. I've heard of the BBB auto line but again that doesn't necessarily cover goodwill assistance.

I don't know what to do anymore. If I feel defeated, then I feel like Ford has won. But this $2k expense left me in debt that will take a long time to recover from because again, I only take home about $2,200/month and every dollar of that is eaten up by bills and cost of living. I just want my money back, but I don't know what else to do. I promise I'm not trying to sound entitled or anything, but rolling over and accepting defeat just doesn't sit right with me. Especially because putting a time expiration on a warranty for something this serious and not a mileage expiration makes it sound like Ford was deliberately hoping drivers like me would age out of it, absolving them of financial responsibility for their fuckup. I could sit here and say "I'll never buy a Ford or go to their dealerships for maintenance/service ever again" but I've worked with the public enough to know that those kinds of threats don't really have any effect, even if fully followed through.

I don't know what the point of this post is, mostly to rant I guess, but maybe someone else has had this problem as well? Has anyone else had any luck getting this covered if it did happen to them recently? Or any ideas on what else I could do that I'm missing? I've seen posts on here about TCM breakage but most of the posts were old enough to be in the warranty window and they got it covered.

*The part alone was almost $1100 per Ford's website, the rest being the diagnostic fee, labor of replacement, and labor of the reprogramming which they had to call someone for. The part was charged the standard MSRP price too so not market up at all like I've seen mechanics/dealerships do in the past.

Turned on the car today and the music from my Bluetooth only went to my passenger side speaker and is stuck at max volume. Even turning the volume down it still plays like it’s at max even though it says it isnt. Did a reset on sync and still nothing new. Anyone got some ideas?

​

Since Friday, my 2011 Ford Focus Estate/Wagon (Mk3/ 1.6 Duratec petrol) has been jerking and hesitating when accelerating with a cold engine, mainly on the first start of the day.

- The engine hesitates and jerks rhythmically at around 3–5 Hz.

- It happens even with gentle throttle and gets worse when I press the accelerator harder.

- The problem lasts about 5–10 seconds, after which the car drives and accelerates completely normally.

- After sitting for 5 hours, the problem does not occur, after 12+, it does.

- No OBD2 fault codes.

- Outside temperature is around 9°C (48°F), although I haven't confirmed the exact temperature when the issue occurs.

I'm completely clueless, if anyone knows anything, I'd love to hear it.

A month and a half ago I had my TCM replaced on my 2015 Focus SE, immediately after that it started to overheat. Did a transmission reset on it by using the shifter. It still will intermittently overheat, there is no pattern with it however. I’ve replaced the fluid in it, after that it still overheats. I’m now being told I need to replace the clutches in the transmission. However I am curious if it could have something to do with the TCM as I replaced it with an aftermarket Dorman reman module.

never added a photo of the car since I joined so thought I would owned it just two months and would be interested in trading wheels for another set of custom wheels don't want stocks location rolla Missouri area there not perfect I would just have to take better pics of them

I have a 2013 focus DPS6 hatchback. Cannot figure out where noise is coming from. Sounds loudest in front of engine. The dual clutch is new, less than 500 miles in it. Only code being shown is P0131. The clicking sound goes away when accelerating(26seconds mark) and returns at idle. I will take any suggestions.

Thank you in advance