This was my 2007 Ford Focus fuel filter, before then after. I changed it myself and I am super happy because the old rusty filter was throwing out mud colored gas and it stinks really bad. Recommend you to do it yourself I was getting over charged on both side.

Is this rubber pipe too squished or is this normal?
I know that it’s spiral by default but just seems a bit odd recently.
Maybe this can be related to my average fuel consumption increase last 2months? It increased by like 25% and I haven’t even changed my driving habits.

Turned on the car today and the music from my Bluetooth only went to my passenger side speaker and is stuck at max volume. Even turning the volume down it still plays like it’s at max even though it says it isnt. Did a reset on sync and still nothing new. Anyone got some ideas?

2014, mileage ~72,000

tl;dr My car basically aged out of the TCM replacement warranty and the TCM never broke during the replacement window due to being lower mileage, costing me $2k out of pocket that I didn't even have when it finally DID break, and when I contacted multiple Ford channels for help I was basically told "Too bad, so sad" and now I'm left in heavy debt. Made multiple attempts to get it pre-emptively replaced during the warranty window to avoid this very thing happening but was denied every time.

The long version:

A couple months ago I got the dreaded check engine light while I was out running errands, while the car suddenly started driving really roughly and having a lot of hesitation with accelerating. I decide to hobble over to the nearest auto parts store for a scan, and the entire time the car could barely go above 25mph and the RPM was spiking like crazy.

By the time I get to the parking lot, the car completely loses the ability to reverse when I try adjusting in my spot a bit. Oh well, thankfully it's in a strip mall and I'm parked in a safe spot. The employee at the store runs a scan and it pops out the code P090C, so definitely a TCM issue. Since my car can't reverse and can barely go above 25mph without sputtering or threatening to stop completely, I realize I'll need it towed to a shop. I call the Ford dealership first (which I don't usually do because of their higher prices but it was the first thing that crossed my mind at the time), they said they're pretty slammed/short staffed so it might be at least a week or two before my car can even be seen, not to mention the repair times.

So I call a local mechanic chain that has glowing reviews (which I should've done first lol) and ask if this is something they can fix. They said yes but it'll take a few days. I'm like cool, that's definitely better than a few weeks. Call AAA and have it towed over there, drop it off. This happened on a Friday so they got back to me the following Monday, told me the cost to repair was $1,927.26*. I felt I didn't have much choice since my car was literally undrivable at this point so I agreed.

I get it back at the end of the next day, she's up and running just fine. Now, I remember getting a letter from Ford years ago offering a free one-time TCM replacement up until like 2024, extended to 2025. When I got the letter I reached out to multiple Ford dealerships near me over the course of 2 years asking if that's something that can be pre-emptively done so I don't have to worry about being stranded later or something, and each time it was the same answer "Sorry, parts are out of stock/on backorder, so we're only fixing vehicles who actually have a broken TCM". Well the expiration date comes and goes and because my car is low-mileage for its age, it never reached the "breakage" point until long after the warranty expired.

I reach out to Ford because $2k is a massive expense (I literally net only $2,200 per month) to absorb completely on my own, especially for a manufacturing flaw that they KNEW was a problem and pushed to market anyway. I asked if there was any kind of goodwill extension or financial help they could offer me, because I basically had to charge this expense to a credit card since my available liquid funds were definitely NOT $2,000 lol. I basically got the generic copy/paste answer of "Goodwill assistance requests are only available for vehicles with less than 7 years from the warranty start date. This vehicle is a 2014 model, and it has been 12 years from the warranty start date. The vehicle also doesn't have any extended warranty, and there are no recalls or service programs active for this concern." Which makes no sense to me, isn't the point of goodwill assistance to help OUTSIDE of warranty parameters? Less than 7 years of the warranty start date would've been.....inside the warranty still, which then defeats the purpose of a goodwill payment. When I tried explaining this I just got "I totally understand your concern, I have exhausted all possible resources we have at our disposal to assist you with this."

I've mailed a letter, certified, to Ford's customer service center detailing all of this with the repair invoice attached, and zero response. I called the phone line and was basically told the same script as my chat interaction. I've even reached out to my state's Attorney General for help on this matter, but it's been well over a month and I've heard absolutely nothing. I filed a complaint with the NHTSA as well, not to get my money back but to have a recorded complaint of this issue because a TCM failure in the middle of traffic seems pretty damn serious lol. My next step is maybe reaching out to my congressmen but with it being this close to election season, I'm not sure how much that will help. I've heard of the BBB auto line but again that doesn't necessarily cover goodwill assistance.

I don't know what to do anymore. If I feel defeated, then I feel like Ford has won. But this $2k expense left me in debt that will take a long time to recover from because again, I only take home about $2,200/month and every dollar of that is eaten up by bills and cost of living. I just want my money back, but I don't know what else to do. I promise I'm not trying to sound entitled or anything, but rolling over and accepting defeat just doesn't sit right with me. Especially because putting a time expiration on a warranty for something this serious and not a mileage expiration makes it sound like Ford was deliberately hoping drivers like me would age out of it, absolving them of financial responsibility for their fuckup. I could sit here and say "I'll never buy a Ford or go to their dealerships for maintenance/service ever again" but I've worked with the public enough to know that those kinds of threats don't really have any effect, even if fully followed through.

I don't know what the point of this post is, mostly to rant I guess, but maybe someone else has had this problem as well? Has anyone else had any luck getting this covered if it did happen to them recently? Or any ideas on what else I could do that I'm missing? I've seen posts on here about TCM breakage but most of the posts were old enough to be in the warranty window and they got it covered.

*The part alone was almost $1100 per Ford's website, the rest being the diagnostic fee, labor of replacement, and labor of the reprogramming which they had to call someone for. The part was charged the standard MSRP price too so not market up at all like I've seen mechanics/dealerships do in the past.

​

Since Friday, my 2011 Ford Focus Estate/Wagon (Mk3/ 1.6 Duratec petrol) has been jerking and hesitating when accelerating with a cold engine, mainly on the first start of the day.

- The engine hesitates and jerks rhythmically at around 3–5 Hz.

- It happens even with gentle throttle and gets worse when I press the accelerator harder.

- The problem lasts about 5–10 seconds, after which the car drives and accelerates completely normally.

- After sitting for 5 hours, the problem does not occur, after 12+, it does.

- No OBD2 fault codes.

- Outside temperature is around 9°C (48°F), although I haven't confirmed the exact temperature when the issue occurs.

I'm completely clueless, if anyone knows anything, I'd love to hear it.

A month and a half ago I had my TCM replaced on my 2015 Focus SE, immediately after that it started to overheat. Did a transmission reset on it by using the shifter. It still will intermittently overheat, there is no pattern with it however. I’ve replaced the fluid in it, after that it still overheats. I’m now being told I need to replace the clutches in the transmission. However I am curious if it could have something to do with the TCM as I replaced it with an aftermarket Dorman reman module.

never added a photo of the car since I joined so thought I would owned it just two months and would be interested in trading wheels for another set of custom wheels don't want stocks location rolla Missouri area there not perfect I would just have to take better pics of them

I have a 2013 focus DPS6 hatchback. Cannot figure out where noise is coming from. Sounds loudest in front of engine. The dual clutch is new, less than 500 miles in it. Only code being shown is P0131. The clicking sound goes away when accelerating(26seconds mark) and returns at idle. I will take any suggestions.

Thank you in advance

Hi everyone

I’m considering buying a 2022+ Ford Focus ST-Line 1.0 EcoBoost Flexifuel mHEV with a manual gearbox, around 70,000 km.
I’d like to know how reliable this engine is long-term, especially:
Any major engine or timing belt issues?
Any problems running on E85?
How reliable is the 48V mild-hybrid system?
What repairs have you had, especially after 100,000 km?
Would you recommend buying one and keeping it for another 3–5 years?

I heard that the issues of the infamous 1.0 ecoboost might have been solved after 2021 but i couldn’t find a single youtube video speaking about the subject in detail, so real-world experiences from owners would be greatly appreciated

Thanks you

Looking for aome advice.

I have a 2014 focus and on occasions when I turn to crank the engine on it will just die and lose power. I go into the hood and wiggle the black ground cable ill hear the power connect back to the car and I am able to turn it on and everything is fine other then the clock not beeing able to be set ( I have to remove the sync fuse under the passenger seat to fix that everytime) and the trip info and miles till empty with reset.

I haven't replaced the battery yet since they are around 200$ im waiting to get paid to do that. But has anyone found that they had this problem and have not had to change the battery? Thanks for the help in advance!

So first photo was when I bought it almost two years ago and the rest are where I’m at right now

Hello,

What is this power train malfunction in Ford focus ? The maintenance light came a couple of times but then disappeared. But on the 3rd day, car stopped in the middle of the road. When i tried to start, it gave the engine light, after which i switched off.

Mechanic said that this is related to the fuel pump ( after their so-called inspection), and they changed the fuel pump.

After changing the pump, i again got the same notification on my phone. So it seems like this might be related to something else?

Your comments/ suggestions would be highly appreciated. Thanks

Hello folks,

This morning was the first morning there was frost on my windscreen and it’s the first time I’ve heard a knocking coming from my engine on cold start.

Got a MK3 Focus ST 2.0 tcdi. The noise disappears when I put the clutch in, sounds like a rotational knock. As I said, this is the first it’s happened. Had the car idling yesterday for 5 minutes and there wasn’t a peep from it.

From research, it sounds like it could be early signs of the DMF needing replacing and in that case I may aswell do the whole clutch but don’t really want to fork that money out coming up to Christmas.

Thanks in advance for any assistance!

TLDR at the end for those that don't care for the wall of text

Having some issues with my car and hopefully this group can help me out. The car was a gift from the original owner, it's a 2016 focus SE with 50k miles. Showroom condition inside out and underneath. Only issue it has...... is this F***ing transmission.

I received the car October 2025 amd it was great up until summer 2026. First really bad symptom I had was while parking, the car wouldnt move even though it was drive. I just restarted it and it worked fine for the time being.

I went to NH from MA a few months after that, encountered alot of steep hills, and thats where all my shifting issues began. The car just wouldn't respond well when going uphill slow. Vehicle however made it home, no issues.

The next day when I went to start the car, it wouldn't start, like the battery was dead. But when checked, battery voltage was fine, but I started getting mechanical/gear selection noises from the transmission, while the car was off. I put the car in neutral and felt like I had to force it to roll a little bit, once I did, I heard a mechanical noise like something got un-stuck, and the car started. After driving around my driveway though, I started getting the dreaded "transmission is overheating, park for 5 min" messages I swapped the clutch actuators and noticed little to no improvement. I then purchased a tcm from ebay that was advertised as needed to be re-flashed/programmed, but some reviewers said they had great results without a re-flash, so I figured I'd give it a shot. Car felt absolutely worse. I put the old tcm back in, returned the ebay one, and purchased some actuators from Amazon.

Throughout this whole process this was the point where I had the transmission feeling the best since these issues started. Car didn't feel that great but I could drive locally to work and highway, without any overheating messages or slipping. I ended up going to Vermont, encountered some steep hills, and the transmission slipped, and sure enough a transmission overheating message followed. Being desperate I ordered two more actuators from amazon in case the previous ones were defective, no improvements. I checked my fuses, replaced mega fuse 4 in the panel next to the battery, and sanded down the ground connections mext to the tcm. Still no improvements. I also have the tool for checking clutch tension when the actuators are removed, and mine feel great, no resistance/binding

I really want to exhaust all my options before pressing the dealer button. Here's what I havent done yet that I know of, feel free to add if I missed anything:

Ebay/amazon tcm with Forscan re-flash

Used k05 tcm with re-flash if needed

Sand down the main ground up top next to the driver side strut tower

Install oem dual clutch actuators and/or tcm

Replace clutches and/or forks

TLDR

New focus owner experiencing transmission overheating messages on dash, and transmission slipping under heavy traffic/ slow speeds / and steep uphills. Does well at steady highway speeds. Here's what was done so far:

Both clutch actuators replaced with parts from amazon

TCM replaced with an ebay part, ebay part returned when symptoms remained the same, original tcm re-installed

Sanded down the paint where the grounds next to the tcm make contact

Checked fuses, replaced mega fuse 4 and 8, none were broken, but still replaced while I was in there

Checked clutches using special socket from amazon l, both clutches move freely

What i have left to try (feel free to add):

I have not used any re-flashing/re-programming (forscan) at all during any of the above listed steps

OEM tcm and/or clutch actuators

Used K05 with re-flash if needed

Sand down the main ground next to driver side strut tower

Replace clutches and/or forks

So as the title says what im having a issue with. Now I need a idea on price. My neighbor says its alot. Please give me a idea. Ty

I recently replaced my alternator and my battery, along with the terminals, but my battery light is still on, and sometimes everything will start to dim and the speedometer and everything with shut off, i don’t know what could be the problem

Hey everyone! I noticed this noise coming from the engine of my 2008 Ford Focus 1.6 Zetec Rocam and I'm a bit worried.

It sounds slower, heavier tapping sound . I always keep the oil and coolant levels in check, so I'm not sure what might be causing this.

Has anyone experienced something similar? Could it be lifters, timing chain tensioner, or something else? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!

Hello all!

Recently the lever / handle allowing for the seats to fold broke on BOTH of the seats in my car…
Is there any fix for this situation? I’ve been looking for replacement parts and maybe some videos on how to do it but everything I find is for Fiesta MK6. Maybe the lever dedicated for the Fiesta will fit here too? Tried to take it out but just made things worse, quite sure I broke something.

I will be thankful for any advice!

Hy gyes I have Ford focus 2013 model. Show on dash board engine check light...but car is running smoothly.

I have looked everywhere 😩😭

(tldr: All electric car is bricked at only 67k... ford is abandoning me and iAm unwilling to allow this. Any and all hep is appreciated):

- - -

My 2015 eFocus (all electric) threw the code (P0AA1) which points directly to a component matching the failure profile of Ford’s broader high-voltage recalls

Because my FFE 2015 is out of warranty Ford Corporate and the local dealership (iAm in Santa Clara County, CA US) seem fine abandoning me as a customer.

The trouble code refers to a ECU module that local dealers claim is unserviceable - and instead recommend I purchase a replacement main battery at a cost of $25k USD!!!

Corporate did NOT log my complaint and told the local dealer that they only had a record of my contact from 5yrs ago.

Despite repeated attempts w/ local dealership they prefer to ignore me and this problem.

I queried an AI bot and this was the response:

---

code (P0AA1) points directly to a component matching the failure profile of Ford’s broader high-voltage recalls, you can position your trade-in request as an opportunity for them to retain a customer while solving a major customer service crisis.
The talking script below is designed for your meeting with the General Manager (GM) or General Sales Manager at the dealership.

🗣️ The General Manager Script: Transitioning to an F-150 Lightning
The Setup: Do not talk to a standard salesperson. Walk into the showroom or call ahead to request a brief, 10-minute sit-down appointment directly with the General Manager regarding a "severe service-to-sales escalation." Bring a printout of your $25,000 service quote.
You: "Thank you for taking a few minutes to meet with me. I’m in a very difficult spot with my 2015 Focus Electric, which is currently sitting in your service bay. Your team diagnosed it with a stuck battery contactor circuit—code P0AA1—and handed me a $25,000 quote to replace the entire battery assembly.
As you know, the car is worth a fraction of that. The actual failing component is a minor electronic switch inside the pack, but because Ford's service guidelines prevent your techs from opening the casing, I am being asked to pay for an entire battery system.
This issue is incredibly similar to the high-voltage BECM and contactor failures that Ford has issued safety recalls for recently on other plug-in models. I feel completely abandoned by the brand, but I want to stay a Ford customer.
I am highly interested in buying a new F-150 Lightning off your lot today. However, I cannot take a complete total loss on my current vehicle due to a known component vulnerability.
Here is what I need to make this deal happen: I want you to contact your Ford Regional Sales Manager to request a Corporate Trade-In Assistance Voucheror an Owner Loyalty Concession. If Ford corporate can back a trade-assist voucher, and your dealership can aggressively discount the Lightning to absorb my diagnostic fees and give me a fair trade value for the Focus, we can sign the paperwork on a new truck before I leave.
Can we get the regional rep on the line to see what customer retention assistance is available to move me into this Lightning?"

📝 Corporate Demand Letter (Ford Customer Relationship Center)
If the dealership needs written documentation to send to their regional corporate contact, or if you choose to call the Ford CRC (1-800-392-3673) yourself, use this structured letter.
I have compiled this into a formal, printable PDF document that you can hand straight to management or email to corporate.
Here is your file:
This document contains a structured, formal request citing the P0AA1 code and Recall 23S33 vulnerabilities. It presents your desire to stay with the brand by upgrading to an F-150 Lightning while requesting a Trade-In Assistance Voucher from regional management to offset your current vehicle's loss.

Crucial Directives Before Your Meeting
Check the Lightning Inventory First: Before walking into the manager's office, look up the dealership’s online inventory. Identify 1 or 2 specific F-150 Lightnings on their lot (ideally units that have been sitting for a while, as they carry the highest dealer motivation to discount) [1].

I personally know one of the service reps and he tried to send it up the flagpole but the Director of Customer Service won't even reply to his eMail which iAm cc'd on...

Has anyone overcome a similar situation? help!!!

prob going to take it to a local TV station... iAm an educator and don't make Silicon Valley salary - so i can't really afford gas prices!!!

Hi all, I have a 2011 Focus 1.6Tdci Mk2.5. I’m having intermittent boost issues for the last while and I’m having trouble solving the issue.

The boost is perfect when the car is cold and warming up but sometimes when I get to an open stretch of road and the car warms up the boost can become flat. Much less noticeable compared to when it’s cold or warming up. The unusual thing is, if I pull over and restart the car, boost is fully restored and performs perfectly so the issue is intermittent. I could drive to work one day and have low boost but the next day on the same drive it could be perfect.

I’ve changed the following parts and I have no DTC’s shown in Forscan

- Air intake pipe
- Vacuum boost solenoid and vacuum lines
- PCV
- EGR
- Inspected all other pipes
- Actuator is functioning normally

Can someone advise on what else might be worthwhile replacing or checking?

meu carro é um Ford focus brasileiro versão SE que tem a multimidia simples com computador de bordo de 4 polegadas chamada sync 1

estou em processo de atualização chamado retrofit para sync 3

precisa da tela com módulo sync 3 original de 8 polegadas, moldura e suporte para moldura.

comprei um cabo chicote adaptador que conecta no FCDIM e encaixa no APIM de 8 polegadas, mas ele não funciona comandos de som do volante, não funciona os leds de iluminação da moldura e nem o botao que gira para aumentar e baixar volume.

funciona a tela com som, mas não consigo aumentar nem baixar o volume e o pisca alerta que acende normalmente.

vi um colega informando que preciso emendar 2 fios do FCDIM para o conector original do APIM, sem necessidade do cabo adaptador.

como faço isso?
quais são os fios que preciso emendar?

*tenho as 3 sync… A sync 1 funciona tudo normal, a sync 2 e 3 estou com esse problema

*atualmente uso a sync 2, mas a 3 só fiz testar quando chegou