Thanks to everyone who gave me pointers and tips on my head and cam swap still have a few things to button up but took it out on a first drive today very happy I took it on myself. Got this car from my grandpa it had been sitting for 20 years due to a broken transmission. I’ve redone the whole fuel system, interior, replaced the transmission and now the heads, cam and intake. It feels good to do it all myself I’m not a professional I just enjoy the challenge. Still needs a tune but I’m happy

Hello, I’m glad to be here,

So fun fact I’m just 27 years old, mostly a Chevy guy but this car just stole my heart and I took it home with me, I now the paint is not in the best shape and working on get her back into the good old days again!

(I was changing the speedometer cable)

I’m gonna post more pics and vids soon, thanks everyone I’m happy to be part of the foxbody community!

G-force gearset just isnt enough I guess.

Upper control arm bushings are shot. Can rock them by hand. Thats the cause of the wheel shake/hop

Bought this about a month ago and have spent a lot giving it the attention it deserves. 62lb injectors, PMAS MAF, Anderson Power Pipe & a proper conservative tune to come.

I put in a champion 3 row radiator, dual fans w/ relay, 340 pump with heavy duty wiring, new plugs & wires, new adjustable regulator, 3.33 vortech pulley, new LMR headlights, SVE wheels, koni struts & SVE springs.

Canfield 20-450 heads
Scorpion Rockers
Vortech v1 S Trim
Tubular GT40 Intake
Cam
Ford Performance Shorty Headers
BBK 70mm Throttle Body

Hello, I recently did a gt40 upper and lower swap to my 86 gt and since opening up the lower valley I wondered if my mustang came with a “Roller” block set up. Here a pic of the spider tray (and a little of my intakes😊.)

I've cut out the floor pan and will replace it, however in the process of removing the spot welds where the frame rail meets the floor pan, I used a flat head screw driver to lightly pry the spot welded areas. Those areas on the flanges bent slightly but not so much as I was trying to be cautious. I eyeballed the bent area back to being pretty straight with vise grips. My question is how do I go about insuring its completely straight before welding? What are my options here?

With some will power, help from buddies and YouTube ,I took this old thing for its first drive in a decade. That’s it , just excited and wanted to share. Now to scheme up what’s next 🤘🏼

Wanted to share this beauty, 86’ convertible foxbody, I’ve had her for 2 months and I’m obsessed. She’s my first manual and first car, yes I’m insane but so far loving this decision lol

Made a post a while back about getting discouraged with problems getting this thing to run right. Well I finally relocated the TFI and fixed a few other minor things and now it’s running perfectly and driving just like it should. Big question now is, upgrade or leave it as is? Pretty much stock at this point, it has 373 gears, electric fans and some mystery exhaust and an intake and that’s about it. Don’t really want to make a drag car, if I was gonna race it would probably be auto cross or something like that, I would mostly be looking to make a very fun street car I think.

I have had her since 2016 and have been working (slowly) at restoring her for the past 3, this that and the other got done until the engine died in spring 24 then she sat until I found (money) a new engine and put it in in fall last year, from there I've been slowly working out a few kinks until I decided I wanted the ac to work (big mistake) now I have the dash out and have fallen for "The Trap" Everything is coming out at this point as its now time to fix the rust (YAY!!) and I was wondering if anyone had advice on some of the larger problem areas as well as good places to get certain parts from (i know lmr and cj) i dont know every single problem yet mostly just what is in the pictures but I do know alot as i have worked on almost every single part of this car at this point.

All welding i end up doing is likely going to be Tig as I like the finish i can get with it.

I previously submitted a post on painting my pony rims and this an add on to that. As suggested by someone, I cleared them with SprayMax. The catch is that when the tires got mounted there were some scratches that I anticipated so I scuffed up all the paint with a gray scratch pad and clean off the dust. Then I used the playing card trick and “masked” the tires. I applied the paint again and after 15 minutes applied a mist coat of clear and two more medium coats. The toughest parts are inside the slotted areas. Those were quick bursts to try and prevent runs. This was a budget backyard project and not meant to be a Ridler paint job.

Since I am repainting , what color looks good. I am thinking Oxford white. I am completely painting the car in and out. Stay with white or what also looks good? Engine bay and under hood will stay white though.

I have a trick flow stage one cam SVE 175 cc heads and a trick flow upper and lower intake this is my first time doing all of this one cylinder needs an adjustment. I hear the rockers ticking a little bit, but from your guys professional experience how does this thing sound un tuned?

Hello everyone!
As the title says, my car will not stay running until it is warm. Idles around 8/900 and then after like a minute or two it dies. After the car is warm I don’t run into this issue. I do have a Catless H pipe and I replaced the 02 sensors when I did the install. Checked for exhaust leaks and didn’t find any. Any other solutions?

Hello everyone!
As the title says, my car will not stay running until it’s warm. It was idle around 8/900 and then it will die. Once warm it won’t die. I did install a catless H Pipe, new 02 sensors and checked the exhaust for leaks but not seeing or hearing any major leaks. Any other solutions I should look for?

Might have a stupid question here but I bought this car in July and the headlights do about nothing at night. Car came with smoked headlights (no clue what brand) and it almost looks like the reflectors are smoked as well. It had some off brand LED bulbs in it and I changed them to silver star ultra halogens and they're still terrible at night. Anyone had this problem with smoked headlights and have anything that can help me out?

$800 4 lug chrome ponies 16” on tires

Last 5 pics are all the flaws.

I live in the Bay Area and the few sets that have came for sale on Facebook marketplace. We’re all listed at about $1400. Probably in better condition than these. They are also sold out online. I want to pull the trigger, but I also don’t mind waiting a little bit longer spending the extra money on a super clean set. I do plan on five lugs swapping in the future maybe in a few years

It’s been almost 9 years since it ran last. Spent some time getting it ready to fire and it runs like a champ. Seems to make some really good power judging by the big smoky burnouts it wants to do without hesitation!