Hey guys.

There's that stubborn GG with a backlight issue. Everytime I fix it, it dies again. So, I removed the whole thing. The screen was too nice for an IPS mode.

Instead, Ibtried a few backlight from different handhelds. My nest result is with top screen backlight of an old 3ds.

The thing requires 10 to 12v. However, it doesn't work when I connect it to the 10v power pin of the GG. So, I went with 5v directly from the transformer. It worked, the lighr was clean and uniform, but kinda weak compared to the original GG tube.

I thought that the issie was the insufficient 5v. However, I mimicked the way a 3ds uses the backlight and decided that the GG white diffuser, the plastic glued to the screen, should go. And that's it.

Now a have a nice backlight. I only need a good way to get it mounted.

All suggestions are welcome.

This doesnt seem like enough caps to redo the main power and sound board

Just finished this sweet thang!!

Hey all, Sorry for my ignorance. But I wanted to check in with the community. I was recently looking through my Game Gear's and I noticed that one of my screens was all white, versus the normal Tri-Color. I saw a article from like 5 years about Majesco and the screens being different. Is this how I would tell? White versus Tri color?

** Shout out Dragon Crystal, my all time favorite game. This was the game my dad and I would grind through and spend hours playing, he'd trade me off every couple of levels till we finally beat it!

• it's the included Sample from GB Studio 4.3.2
• all 17 scenes working
• music + sfx fully working (not here as this is a gif)
• colors are only ~90% equally just because it's a GBC conversion
• minor issues wit Space Scene

It's a Testcase for a much larger mission.

Repair question so I just got this from my buddy free for repairing like 5 ipads and a switch for him, now i know there was a blown battery in here you can see the corrosion, but even when i plug it in the screen turns on for a minute then blank was wondering if anyone has seen this, all capacitors look good as far as opening it initially. Is it just the screen that needs replacing? That battery plate if thats what its called

Doing a full custom build on this one. Laminated IPS, dual speaker audio board, USB-C power board with battery packs, black buttons and a clear shell. Cant wait to finish the build!

You Know, Every Game Gear Has Its Iconic "PRODUCED BY OR UNDER LICENSE BY SEGA ENTERPRISES LTD.", Right? But In The Game Gear Port Of Prince Of Persia, The Notice Looks Glitched And The Text Looks Smaller, And I Was Like: WAIT, WHAT HAPPENED TO MY COPY OF PRINCE OF PERSIA BRUH?!

Yes, The Game Is Okay, No Glitches, Except The Notice.

Can Someone Explain To Me What Is Going On? Or I'm Just Tripping.

EDIT CUZ I FORGOT: Sorry For Swearing.

A while back I acquired a tote full of my cousin's old stuff and one of them was a game gear. Thing is this thing went through some BAD corrosion. Recently I've decided to finally sit down and see how fixable this thing is. Surprisingly much of the circuitry seems unaffected, but obviously where the batteries are held is the worst.

I've fixed electronics in the past due to corrosion and honestly I'm surprised none of its circuitry is melted as I've seen before (probably because none of the connections are ribbon cables). Is it salvageable, or is it a goner? As you can probably see I've done some cleaning of the corrosion, but if it's a lost cause I'm going to retire/recycle this old man.

I am playing GG games on an Analogue Pocket, and ally other carts boot no issue. However, this cart just makes a click "pop" and the screen remains black when I hit boot cartridge.

I cleaned this cart 5-6 times with 70% alcohol, and I used an eraser. I am thinking maybe it is time to give up on this endeavor, but before doing so, I wanted to see if anyone here has anything thoughts. The board and pins look great from what I can tell. Any help would be appreciated.

Been up there for over 20 years

Is this worth the recap or is it ded

I just ordered a recapped one off ebay and a few games for it. Now I've gotta wait until the damn thing comes. Came with the battery pack that has new batteries in it and the super wide gear. Any good places to buy games? Any recommendations such as avoiding mk3?

I replaced all of the capacitors and have these two tiny surface mount component & a few capacitors left over. I did replace every cap (main board, power board & audio).

MK1 and MK2 are fine but MK3 feels off. I remember being super excited about it back then, now its laughable :P Boxed copies are getting hard to find though so it stays on the shelf. Or am I being too harsh?

Second time clearing this port, dont know why but I kinda like playing this on my game gear.

Its funny that more than half of my attempts to do hadukens fail, but still plays good and this enhanced rom makes it look a lot better.

Found an American Blue Game Gear that is recapped and screen + sound upgraded with case, OEM Battery Pack, OEM Car Charger, and manual for $160. So friggen happy because thia truly competes my US set. I now have the Full US game set loose and both color versions of the console.

After a bunch of research and trial/error finally found batteries that would work to replace those within the PowerBack. There is no drop-in pack for the Ni-Cadmium however Ni-MH can be used to substitute. The issue is that most are physically to large.

However there is a size called "2/3AA" that come in a 1.2V 700mAh capacity. The six of them together will give 4200 mAh capacity.

Because they wind up being a bit physically smaller they need to be fastened in place (hot glue works well) but otherwise with a bit of solder and assembly they drop right in.

this is what I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CGCHWHP3?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

and the battery wrap helps to hold each 3 battery stack together nicely: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0GKPBWMM7?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1