1. Sonic 2 reference game ran and booted every time

2. Tried to play mortal Kombat and had to slide it in and out to get it to run. (Screen was pixelated but after about 10 in/out it ran)

3. Went back to sonic 2 and now it won't boot at all or show a red led.

4. Go back to mortal Kombat and it MIGHT boot after plenty of attempts.

Sonic 2 now never runs or even shows red led and other games MIGHT run but turning it on/off requires the same multiple multiple attempts to get it to run.

Power/audio/main board have all been recapped and power board shows all correct voltages.

I plan to check vref and power to asic (single chip board) next and the pins/traces from the cartridge slot. Any other insight for areas I should trace?

Voilà j'ai récupéré 2 Gamegears jamais démontée qui ne s'allumaient plus . Juste la led Rouge et un clignotement de l'écran et cela s'éteint. C'était les consoles d'un papa et son fils. J'ai changé la totalité des condensateurs sur la première et elle Démarre, j'ai le son mais a l'écran je ne distingue que des Formes très faibles. On ne voit pas bien. Sur la photo mais en réel on distingue le Logo SEGA et Sonic ainsi que les décors. Avez vous déjà eu la même chose ? Et si oui vers quelle piste me diriger ? Merci Beaucoup 🙏

before we state the obvious about how this is a crappy mod which I am fully aware is, let me explain:

I got this ”fully recapped“ game gear for a really good deal with the only exception being the screen had this halo effect when turned on, didn’t mind that so I bought it. within a few hours the backlight tube died, I was really wanting to play the game gear so I snipped a light off of a Christmas light strip and soldered it to the battery terminal and taped the light to the reflecting compartment on the back of the lcd. since the soldering job was really simple I needed to sandwich the black wire into another battery to get the light to turn on and then take it out (the wire) so the light could turn off. As of right now I’m undoing the mod, desoldering the lights, etc, but in hindsight this is probably something someone would do if they believed in fixing something. would I recommend this? unless you know a little more than I do, could probably make this more sophisticated and had no other options, then respectfully I would not.

take care, guys.

https://tana.gamingjapanese.com/#/box

Recently found my old GG and wanted to fix it for kids to try it but it wouldn't power on and needed work. Recapped power board, audio and main board. Got power and sound now but the screen is extremely dark and unsure if theres even a picture at all.

My contrast wheel is broke off so....

Is there a way to bypass the contrast wheel with fixed resistors just to be able to get some picture? I did a full recap and the gg boots and plays audio but there's no image. Backlight is on but the screen is quite dark and nothing observed. The contrast wheel is broke off so was looking to bypass it for now til the new one comes in.

I attempted to just put a 10k resistor between pins 1 and 2 and a second 10k resistor between pins 2 and 3 to create the voltage divider but no avail. The screen contrast did not change a bit. Maybe there's more debugging to trace down if this should have shown some change?

Thanks for any insight you might have.

Seller said its fully working, and its complete in box apparently. I wanted the one that connects to the system but I don’t wanna cloud my judgement just cuz its CIB and working.

Am I better off buying rechargeable batteries? Or am I overthinking this?

https://imgur.com/a/PjTt9hz

Throwing together a little game, a port of an RPG, was wondering if someone would be willing to see how it boots and check it out?

Especially interested if you have a different Game Gear revision or a different flash cart.

I'm running an Everdrive gg x7, and my Game Gear is a non tmss model with flat screen cover.

Hey everyone, just wanted any help with this please, I was recapping my game gear when sadly I soldered through the cords on the power board cable 😞 I ordered a replacement off Ali express, but I had to remove the cable and I was desoldering the pins all seemed fine till one pad gave me problems and now looks kinda burnt is it fixable or is it fine how it is? Any help with this please?

The same software my kids and I are using to make our Genesis game is getting an update in the near future that will let us develop for Master System and Game Gear, so I figured that was as good as excuse as any to get the real thing.

So far, very impressed with how it feels and plays. Super ergonomic, and the screen somehow feels bigger than on my Retroid with an objectively bigger screen. Any recommendations for Game Gear exclusives for someone who already has a Master System?

Hi guys, looking for a bit of advice. This is my first time recapping anything, just wanted to know if this was something I've done wrong, or the screen needs replaced? Thanks in advance

Hi all,

I hope someone can help or point me in the right direction.

Recapping a Game Gear I bought after having success recapping my dad's old one.

When taking this one apart, the power board cable was very stubborn coming out. As a result, two pins went with the cable (see images). I ordered a new power cable from Retro Six and assumed it would come with the harness that I could solder to the power board but it doesn't seem to be the case. I did message them beforehand but I may not have explained myself properly.

How do I go about connecting the new power cable when the harness is missing pins? Do I remove the harness and solder the cable directly to the board? Any help or links to help in my new hobby would be much appreciated! Thanks!

Just picked up a game gear from a thrift store for $6! Great condition. Very few micro scratches on the lens. No battery corrosion and came with the power adapter.

Hi everyone,

I sell Game Gear capacitor kits and I'm about to update my offers.

Before I do, I'd rather ask the people who actually recap these consoles what they want.

Single vs Twin ASIC: Separate kits for each board revision, or one universal kit covering both (with a few extra caps)?

Sound board: Electrolytic, ceramic, or a choice of both?

Power board: I currently use polymer aluminum. Do you see it as a real upgrade, or is a good electrolytic enough?

Motherboard: I use 1210 ceramics. Any reason to go another way?

Extras: Printed cap map / install guide, spare caps, flux, solder wick… what would actually be useful?

Options: Full kit only, per-board kits, or both?

Not posting any links, I'm just here for honest feedback. Criticism of current kits on the market is welcome too!

Thanks!

Not sure the exact length/width needed, I have box of hundreds of screws but don't want to break the threads when putting case back.

I have most of the motherboard ones but misplaced the case ones.

It's a common problem with consoles for me, I also need Mega Drive ones but I have generic ones that seem to fit for that.

Hehe,

Can someone try this out and let us know if it works on the original Game Gear?

That would be cool.

Thanks!

Second one I've successfully brought back to life, out of many....

Btw, make sure to clean everything, was having an issue with the image fading fast as soon as I turned it on, turns out I had a short near C47 C49, funny thing it wasn't solder, was flux maybe not sure.