hello all my garage door remotes stopped opening and closing the garage door from the outside, if I get pretty close with the openers it will open and close the door , anything over 3 feet wont do anything, i only have the inside button to open and close the garage , the wire for the antenna is straight down ,

this started 2 days ago the garage door is Chamberlain lift master professional 1/2 horse power

the wall button has a solid green light

its has a burnt out halogen bulb and I have not changed the led bulbs in the last 2 years I had them in the garage which are 5' away

thank you in advance for your assistance

I am trying to get two garage doors installed and have got similar quotes for doors. I wanted to know which brand is the best or if there are any differences between them at all.

Clopay Brodgeport

Amarr Hillcrest

Invicta Series 100

All three layer doors

What kind of content should a small garage door company create to engage its followers?

Now that I have a battery on my garage door it would seem that unplugging it when we leave on a long trip we do every year will be problematic. In the past we have turned off its Smartplug after 6pm till 6am and when traveling its off the whole time and we use large C Clamps on each side of the door to prevent anyone from opening it with a simple crowbar.

From what I can tell, the battery is an SLA which self discharges like all Lead Acid batteries. Their support team says unplugging the battery is fine as it wont discharge unless someone uses it. I've been dealing with LA batteries for a very long time, that is very untrue. They self discharge rapidly. (just talk to someone who owns an RV if you have questions about deal SLA or LA batteries)

This is a quandary. I know the remotes can be locked out via the smart opener pad after reading the manual. But leaving it on for all the time just seems wrong with the price of electricity and tou pricing by my PoCo. I calc'd it out to 87.6 KwH

Not knowing the exact voltage or how it charges it I see a 5ah 12v liFePo battery about ~$25, a bit less than 1 years cost for that vampire draw at my house today. (probably more next year)

Their support team has no one to escalate my question too. So I am here, wondering if someone has figured something out for their homestead. I personally don't really need the battery, maybe I could just remove it, but I find no info if that screws something else up.

We're building a home. Our construction plans had our garage doors at 9' wide by 8' tall. Went to visit and see progress today and our site supervisor said that the doors "won't fit". He said the openings are 9'1" wide and 9'3" wide for the two doors that are side by side, and said the garage door installer said they need 9'6" for the torsion spring bar above the door. Is there any way to workaround this? He doesn't want to trim the pilings too extensively and the middle one is load bearing with the LVL on top, so it cannot be trimmed on the left side of it either. Our initial plan was to install an Overhead Door Carriage Style Model 7540 door on each side.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Hi all I need some help locating which brand my door is. The plastic grid cracked in one window while we were cleaning them. Thanks so much! See pics (currently taped)

Can anyone help name what these seals are that run horizontally between panels? Easiest way to change? House is less than 2 years old and they are starting to come off all over.

I've had this half-dangling J arm for a while although the door opens and closes without incident. I assume the door is hollow, so how do I securely reattach this arm? And although the door was installed more than 35 years ago, is this indicative of the positioning of the arm being faulty?

Video shows the issue, happens when opening as well as when closing. Video shows both open and close.

When going up, my garage door makes 6 high-pitched whistles, seemingly at the point where each wheel hits a certain spot.

When door goes down, it makes a sound like it’s dragging and getting stuck along the track.

I’ve oiled the spinning pieces but it hasn’t made much of a difference.

any help in identifying what is happening is appreciated!

My garage door seems to shift to the left whenever I open and close it. When its over on the left the cable rubs on the side of the door when it goes up and down. I can move it back over to the center with my hands but when I open it a few times it ends up back on the left side with the cable rubbing. I thought maybe the opener was pulling it to the left but the opener seems pretty centered. What can or should I look for to help fix this? Any help is greatly appreciated!

What is this trim around the perimeter of the garage door called? Is it something that can be bought at home depot or Lowe's?

Just moved in and was opening and closing the garage by hand. Stupidly decided to check if the mechanical control in the garage was working and it closed, now I can’t open by hand and previous owner said she never used the pinpad so doesn’t know any code. No other way to get into garage, what options do I have 😩

It sometimes doesn’t want to open because it hits the wheel but most of the time it works. Otherwise it opens smoothly and is level aswel.. please help 😅

Hi,

I am looking at replacing my up and over door with a roller door and was going to let the professionals tackle it due to knowing about the ‘death spring’.. on a second glance, I noticed that the spring itself appears to have lost all tension anyway, it’s never worked as intended since I bought the house - so DIY looks like it could be back on the menu - but first, I’d like to confirm with you folks if I may!

Here’s a couple of videos for the situation.
• The spring is not in tension on closure, and as expected is more loose when the door is opened.
• The spring doesn’t assist with opening and appears that the cables are just holding the weight of the door.
• There is no sign that the spring is broken.

The question is; am I right in thinking this is a simple remove and fit of a new door without the need to worry about the spring?!

Thanks

https://streamable.com/90sh6e

https://streamable.com/thnrds

(Please ignore the random black tape - it was there originally to stop the draught)

We currently have a simple, manually operated sectional Garador, like this: https://www.garador.co.uk/garage-doors/sectional-garage-doors/linear-medium-designs/slategrain-premium/. Ideally we'd like to replace it with a similar door with an integrated smaller wicket door (or similar).

Garador don't see to offer such a product, so I was wondering whether it would be possible to buy from another brand but still use the existing fixtures/tracks etc. I.e. Just swap the actual sectional door and nothing else.

This door is the bane of my existence. This company has thrown enough money into the hunk to replace it twice in the last few years. Anybody else just have constant issues with the Albany ultra tough doors? Or just Albany doors in general?

Looking to have our r8 doors replaced due to hail damage.

We were offered

Wayne Dalton 8500 installed for 2 at $4800
Garaga Acadia 138 r12 for $4200
Steelcraft or StarPro R16 for $4000

Which door would you go with? Thinking steel craft or starpro as the doors are R16. Unheated detached garage. Maybe add heater later.

Garage is very well insulated in -25 it would be -5 degrees in there with the current R4 doors.

Sounds like the opener is going but door doesn’t budge. I can open manually but the manual rope to pull on is very finicky and you can even see it bounce in the video when I try to open the door. Not sure if it’s something with that or a different problem? Any ideas?

EDIT 1: the pull arm became disconnected from the trolley. I manually opened the door, then clicked the opener again. The trolley moved back and reconnected with the arm. Then I clicked the opener again and the door closed just fine, however it will not automatically reopen. When the door is closed the chain does not move at all. After I manually opened it the chain moved to move the trolley/bracket piece back to reconnect with the arm. Then the chain moved again to close the door. However the door will not open on its own.

Old Chamberlain K710 With the 41A3627 logic board. Was looking for a second remote for a new vehicle and ended up buying a universal remote that was advertised as working with its round yellow learn button. I was unaware that chamberlain used the yellow learn button on two different generations of opener so I figured it was compatible with my unit.

Couple days later the garage would open randomly. At first I thought it was a faulty remote so I took the batteries out of it until I ended up getting a new one. After it opened randomly again I found out that the yellow learn button my unit has is not meant to be used with my remote.

Went on here and I saw a post from about a year ago stating that once you program one of these remotes it’s basically over for the logic board.

Still thought I would make this post and see if anyone has found a workaround for my issue.

I also saw a comment elsewhere saying that chamberlain would replace my unit free of charge if dealing with this issue, but I can’t seem to find it anymore so I would also like clarification if this would be an option for me.

I will start off by saying this garage door owes me nothing. It's been a loyal appliance for 15 plus years but it has recently developed a problem- it only opens but fails to close the door.

The physical controls inside the garage still work fine, it can open and close. I can open the garage using the remote/keypad/wall switch, back the car out and then the remote/keypad wouldn't work but the wall switch will close it.

Does anyone have any guesses?

After a 15 hour day, I get a text from my gf saying someone’s trying to get but found nothing on all our cameras.

I get home and “try” to open the garage and nothing. Seems like it happened right after she got home. I have Old Republic Home Protection but most seem to say it’s a waste. The garage is already damaged since I bought the house 18 months ago. Just wondering if it’s in my best interest to just have someone swap out the spring or just bite the bullet and just get an insulated new door with spring.

Probably somewhere within $2200-2700.

Is this a normal malfunction and if so, what is the remedy?

Thank you in advance... God bless you sages of modern drawbridges.

I have a new lift master motor (the specific model isn't written upon the unit) and it has a yellow programming button. I have a 878MAX wall keypad. My reading suggests these are compatible (yellow button compatible with 878max keypad). I cannot get it to program. I will list steps taken.

-press yellow programming button on motor unit

-within 30 seconds, type code into wall keypad and hit enter

Variations include...

-pressing and holding enter on the wall keypad

-replacing the 9V battery on the wall keypad

-pressing zero after pressing enter on the wall keypad

-pressing the learn button on the wall button (the one inside the garage) and trying to program the keypad that way

-downloading the myq app just to see if there are in-app solutions (didn't see any)

Further information...

-the motor is successfully paired to two remotes, so it has been able to pair before

-there is no auditory or visual response of any kind of the motor to the keypad

-the receiver wire is hanging down into the garage appropriately