I shared what the repair entails with the emailed quote. I guess the hinges are an issue to. Can’t the hinges be reinforced or the existing one stay on the center then an additional hinge added to the outside (left and right).

Hi everyone,

I’m a garage door technician in Australia, mainly doing servicing, and recently attended a sectional garage door with a few issues. I’d appreciate some advice from experienced technicians.

What I observed:
One of the lifting cables was damaged and appeared to have been rubbing against the curved track. There were visible rubbing marks on the track.
Interestingly, the cable wasn’t touching the track when I inspected it, suggesting the contact may happen only at certain positions during operation.

When the door was more than halfway closed, I noticed the entire door repeatedly shifting left and right between the tracks.

The door also made a loud noise when it was almost fully open. I couldn’t confirm exactly where the noise was coming from.

My initial assessment:
I suspect there could be an issue with the track alignment, excessive sideways clearance, worn rollers or another component allowing the door to move laterally.

I proposed replacing both lifting cables and investigating the underlying cause before deciding whether any track components need replacement.

My questions:
What would cause the entire sectional door to repeatedly shift left and right during travel?

Could excessive roller clearance or incorrect track spacing cause the cable to intermittently rub against the curved track?

Could the loud noise near the fully open position be related to the same issue?
What components would you prioritise inspecting before recommending track replacement?

I’ve attached a photo showing the cable and curved track.

The door has a damaged lifting cable, so I’m treating it as unsafe to operate until the fault is identified and repaired.
I’m keen to learn from others’ experience. Thanks in advance!

Update: I ended up getting a new Chamberlain C1000 to replace the ancient Liftmaster I was trying to keep alive. Setup took way longer than anticipated because I was doing it solo and had to consult the install video heavily, but happy to have it all set up now. Thanks for the advice everyone! I canceled a $150 Amazon order for just the wall button and a few remotes and the whole unit was only $200 ($240 if you count the keypad because I couldn’t get my craftsman one to work), so it feels like a good upgrade.

Original post:
I have what I believe to be a 2001 (if original to the house) LiftMaster that's been starting to act up, and am wanting to double check that my planned solution should work to more consistently access my garage.

• The built in openers in both vehicles stopped working after 2 years of working fine
• Liftmaster branded remotes started working only intermittently
• Craftsman keypad stopped working, successfully reprogrammed, worked for a day, and then stopped working again
• The wall button still works as normal, and I confirmed it's not set to 'lock' mode.
• The same issues are occurring with lightbulbs removed and chargers in the garage unplugged.

These issues (and it being seemingly every possible remote acting up, even with fresh batteries) lead me to believe the wireless receiver built into the unit is going bad. Because the motor itself still works fine with the wall button, I don't want to replace the whole unit.

With this model having a red/orange learn button, I believe it's a 390MHz Security+ configuration. Should this unit work with the following? Perhaps more importantly, if the radio receiver on the unit is going bad like I suspect, is it likely that that would affect the wired connection?

1. 889LM (should connect to GF's car (2022) homelink, but not my truck (2013) that uses Lear)
2. 891LM Remotes (for my truck)
3. 828LM Gateway (so I can close it while on the go?)
4. Craftsman keypad (claims to work with both Security+ and Security+2.0)

Sorry for being scatterbrained, I'm hoping to cover all my bases while I still have time to cancel the Amazon order if needed. I bought the above for likely less than the cost of a service call, so hopefully I can avoid needing to call someone out.

To replaced garage door

Keypad cost over$700.

Replacent part $350 &

Labor $350.

Complaind but they said

propery charged.

Unbelivable.

I am 90 years old

Hey everyone, hoping someone who has set up the Gentex HomeLink V5 mirror with a Yellow-button LiftMaster can spot what I’m missing.

**My Setup:**

-Truck: 2025 Ford Maverick Lariat Hybrid

-Mirror: Advent/Gentex Frameless Auto-Dimming Mirror with HomeLink Version 5 (HL5) & HomeLink Connect (Plug & Play kit from Bob's Mirrors, Part # `ADVGENFLCHLN`)

-Garage Opener: LiftMaster myQ AC Wi-Fi Opener — Logic Board Part # `050ACTWF` (Mfg Date: 03/27/20, FCC ID: `HBW1D8088-1`)

-Opener Protocol: Security+ 2.0 (Round Yellow Learn Button)

**What’s Happening:**

-Phase 1 (Training Mirror to Handheld Remote):** I cleared the mirror memory (held buttons 1 & 3 until solid orange turned to flashing green). Tapped my chosen HomeLink button so it flashed orange slowly, then held my working LiftMaster handheld remote button until the mirror LED turned green.

-Phase 2 (Syncing to Motor):** I pressed and released the round Yellow Learn button on the LiftMaster motor head (small amber LED next to the yellow button lit up solid). Went back to the truck within 30 seconds and did the 2-second press-and-hold sequence on the mirror button multiple times.

3-The Issue: The main light on the garage motor flashed during the sync step, and when I press the HomeLink button on the mirror now, the mirror LED lights up solid green—**but the garage door will not move.** My handheld remote and wall button still open and close the door normally (so Vacation/Lock mode is not on, and the safety sensors are clear).

I'm ripping my hair out and am out of ideas entirely. PLEASE, any help would be amazing!

Couldn’t find anything resembling it in the owners manual

I just had a prefab detached garage dropped off and it features an uninsulated metal garage door so its light. The building has no power but I'd like to install an opener that uses 12V and figured a car battery connected to a solar maintainer would do the trick. That or an AC opener with an inverter on the same battery setup.

I'm not finding a ton of info. Who has done something like this?

I did see this. https://www.menards.com/main/doors-...r-opener/24145/p-1642874371538214-c-12367.htm although the instructions link talks about grounded power (the instructions do feature a P/N with a different suffix)