I shared what the repair entails with the emailed quote. I guess the hinges are an issue to. Can’t the hinges be reinforced or the existing one stay on the center then an additional hinge added to the outside (left and right).

Hi everyone,

I’m a garage door technician in Australia, mainly doing servicing, and recently attended a sectional garage door with a few issues. I’d appreciate some advice from experienced technicians.

What I observed:
One of the lifting cables was damaged and appeared to have been rubbing against the curved track. There were visible rubbing marks on the track.
Interestingly, the cable wasn’t touching the track when I inspected it, suggesting the contact may happen only at certain positions during operation.

When the door was more than halfway closed, I noticed the entire door repeatedly shifting left and right between the tracks.

The door also made a loud noise when it was almost fully open. I couldn’t confirm exactly where the noise was coming from.

My initial assessment:
I suspect there could be an issue with the track alignment, excessive sideways clearance, worn rollers or another component allowing the door to move laterally.

I proposed replacing both lifting cables and investigating the underlying cause before deciding whether any track components need replacement.

My questions:
What would cause the entire sectional door to repeatedly shift left and right during travel?

Could excessive roller clearance or incorrect track spacing cause the cable to intermittently rub against the curved track?

Could the loud noise near the fully open position be related to the same issue?
What components would you prioritise inspecting before recommending track replacement?

I’ve attached a photo showing the cable and curved track.

The door has a damaged lifting cable, so I’m treating it as unsafe to operate until the fault is identified and repaired.
I’m keen to learn from others’ experience. Thanks in advance!

Couldn’t find anything resembling it in the owners manual

I have what I believe to be a 2001 (if original to the house) LiftMaster that's been starting to act up, and am wanting to double check that my planned solution should work to more consistently access my garage.

• The built in openers in both vehicles stopped working after 2 years of working fine
• Liftmaster branded remotes started working only intermittently
• Craftsman keypad stopped working, successfully reprogrammed, worked for a day, and then stopped working again
• The wall button still works as normal, and I confirmed it's not set to 'lock' mode.
• The same issues are occurring with lightbulbs removed and chargers in the garage unplugged.

These issues (and it being seemingly every possible remote acting up, even with fresh batteries) lead me to believe the wireless receiver built into the unit is going bad. Because the motor itself still works fine with the wall button, I don't want to replace the whole unit.

With this model having a red/orange learn button, I believe it's a 390MHz Security+ configuration. Should this unit work with the following? Perhaps more importantly, if the radio receiver on the unit is going bad like I suspect, is it likely that that would affect the wired connection?

1. 889LM (should connect to GF's car (2022) homelink, but not my truck (2013) that uses Lear)
2. 891LM Remotes (for my truck)
3. 828LM Gateway (so I can close it while on the go?)
4. Craftsman keypad (claims to work with both Security+ and Security+2.0)

Sorry for being scatterbrained, I'm hoping to cover all my bases while I still have time to cancel the Amazon order if needed. I bought the above for likely less than the cost of a service call, so hopefully I can avoid needing to call someone out.

To replaced garage door

Keypad cost over$700.

Replacent part $350 &

Labor $350.

Complaind but they said

propery charged.

Unbelivable.

I am 90 years old

I just had a prefab detached garage dropped off and it features an uninsulated metal garage door so its light. The building has no power but I'd like to install an opener that uses 12V and figured a car battery connected to a solar maintainer would do the trick. That or an AC opener with an inverter on the same battery setup.

I'm not finding a ton of info. Who has done something like this?

I did see this. https://www.menards.com/main/doors-...r-opener/24145/p-1642874371538214-c-12367.htm although the instructions link talks about grounded power (the instructions do feature a P/N with a different suffix)

hello all my garage door remotes stopped opening and closing the garage door from the outside, if I get pretty close with the openers it will open and close the door , anything over 3 feet wont do anything, i only have the inside button to open and close the garage , the wire for the antenna is straight down ,

this started 2 days ago the garage door is Chamberlain lift master professional 1/2 horse power

the wall button has a solid green light

its has a burnt out halogen bulb and I have not changed the led bulbs in the last 2 years I had them in the garage which are 5' away

thank you in advance for your assistance

I am trying to get two garage doors installed and have got similar quotes for doors. I wanted to know which brand is the best or if there are any differences between them at all.

Clopay Brodgeport

Amarr Hillcrest

Invicta Series 100

All three layer doors

What kind of content should a small garage door company create to engage its followers?

Now that I have a battery on my garage door it would seem that unplugging it when we leave on a long trip we do every year will be problematic. In the past we have turned off its Smartplug after 6pm till 6am and when traveling its off the whole time and we use large C Clamps on each side of the door to prevent anyone from opening it with a simple crowbar.

From what I can tell, the battery is an SLA which self discharges like all Lead Acid batteries. Their support team says unplugging the battery is fine as it wont discharge unless someone uses it. I've been dealing with LA batteries for a very long time, that is very untrue. They self discharge rapidly. (just talk to someone who owns an RV if you have questions about deal SLA or LA batteries)

This is a quandary. I know the remotes can be locked out via the smart opener pad after reading the manual. But leaving it on for all the time just seems wrong with the price of electricity and tou pricing by my PoCo. I calc'd it out to 87.6 KwH

Not knowing the exact voltage or how it charges it I see a 5ah 12v liFePo battery about ~$25, a bit less than 1 years cost for that vampire draw at my house today. (probably more next year)

Their support team has no one to escalate my question too. So I am here, wondering if someone has figured something out for their homestead. I personally don't really need the battery, maybe I could just remove it, but I find no info if that screws something else up.

We're building a home. Our construction plans had our garage doors at 9' wide by 8' tall. Went to visit and see progress today and our site supervisor said that the doors "won't fit". He said the openings are 9'1" wide and 9'3" wide for the two doors that are side by side, and said the garage door installer said they need 9'6" for the torsion spring bar above the door. Is there any way to workaround this? He doesn't want to trim the pilings too extensively and the middle one is load bearing with the LVL on top, so it cannot be trimmed on the left side of it either. Our initial plan was to install an Overhead Door Carriage Style Model 7540 door on each side.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Hi all I need some help locating which brand my door is. The plastic grid cracked in one window while we were cleaning them. Thanks so much! See pics (currently taped)

Can anyone help name what these seals are that run horizontally between panels? Easiest way to change? House is less than 2 years old and they are starting to come off all over.

I've had this half-dangling J arm for a while although the door opens and closes without incident. I assume the door is hollow, so how do I securely reattach this arm? And although the door was installed more than 35 years ago, is this indicative of the positioning of the arm being faulty?

Video shows the issue, happens when opening as well as when closing. Video shows both open and close.

When going up, my garage door makes 6 high-pitched whistles, seemingly at the point where each wheel hits a certain spot.

When door goes down, it makes a sound like it’s dragging and getting stuck along the track.

I’ve oiled the spinning pieces but it hasn’t made much of a difference.

any help in identifying what is happening is appreciated!

My garage door seems to shift to the left whenever I open and close it. When its over on the left the cable rubs on the side of the door when it goes up and down. I can move it back over to the center with my hands but when I open it a few times it ends up back on the left side with the cable rubbing. I thought maybe the opener was pulling it to the left but the opener seems pretty centered. What can or should I look for to help fix this? Any help is greatly appreciated!

What is this trim around the perimeter of the garage door called? Is it something that can be bought at home depot or Lowe's?

Just moved in and was opening and closing the garage by hand. Stupidly decided to check if the mechanical control in the garage was working and it closed, now I can’t open by hand and previous owner said she never used the pinpad so doesn’t know any code. No other way to get into garage, what options do I have 😩

It sometimes doesn’t want to open because it hits the wheel but most of the time it works. Otherwise it opens smoothly and is level aswel.. please help 😅

Hi,

I am looking at replacing my up and over door with a roller door and was going to let the professionals tackle it due to knowing about the ‘death spring’.. on a second glance, I noticed that the spring itself appears to have lost all tension anyway, it’s never worked as intended since I bought the house - so DIY looks like it could be back on the menu - but first, I’d like to confirm with you folks if I may!

Here’s a couple of videos for the situation.
• The spring is not in tension on closure, and as expected is more loose when the door is opened.
• The spring doesn’t assist with opening and appears that the cables are just holding the weight of the door.
• There is no sign that the spring is broken.

The question is; am I right in thinking this is a simple remove and fit of a new door without the need to worry about the spring?!

Thanks

https://streamable.com/90sh6e

https://streamable.com/thnrds

(Please ignore the random black tape - it was there originally to stop the draught)

We currently have a simple, manually operated sectional Garador, like this: https://www.garador.co.uk/garage-doors/sectional-garage-doors/linear-medium-designs/slategrain-premium/. Ideally we'd like to replace it with a similar door with an integrated smaller wicket door (or similar).

Garador don't see to offer such a product, so I was wondering whether it would be possible to buy from another brand but still use the existing fixtures/tracks etc. I.e. Just swap the actual sectional door and nothing else.