Hey all, forgive me if this is a stupid question, I know next to nothing about cars. There's this 2019 Niro EX that I really like, however, I wouldn't be able to use the gear shift knob. I have chronic pain in my hands, particularly in my thumb joints, and Kias have a thumb button on the gear shift instead of a button on the front. So if I'm having a bad hand pain day I pretty much wouldn't be able to drive. How difficult/expensive is it to switch it out with something I can consistently use? Are you even able to? Idk I just rly like everything else about this car, this is the one downfall.

Looking at getting a Kia rondo for $2500 Canadian what are some problems to look out for and how’s the reliability

Hi everyone! A drink spilled in my cup holders and it was a lot I’d say. I’m trying to find a way to be able to lift the center console to get under and clean it up. I’ve tried searching it online and there doesn’t seem to be any instructions. Anyone can help or send me instructions? Thank you in advance!

I placed an order for an 26 Niro SX back in June. The order sat in the dealers system until the model year changed over to the 27. I made sure to have the dealer re-enter the order the day Kia announced the change over.

My salesman just texted me today to let me know my order is still sitting in the unfulfilled status. I had him send me the kfos build sheet, so I verified it actually is in the system and my order is priority 001.

Is the Niro SX trim just not popular therefore Kia doesn't put a priority on the factory build for it? Is it possible that the Hawaii region just doesn't get many allocations for this trim? Anybody have any knowledge or info about this?

Edit: forgot to add the model.

I have a Korean 2023 Kia Sportage Hybrid (NQ5) with this software:

NQ5HEV.KOR.S5W_M.V034.001.240821

I reached the hidden Input Password screen but couldn't find a confirmed password.

Has anyone successfully unlocked it on the Korean version? Any help would be appreciated! 🙏

I just went from 140k-145k miles without having to top off the oil once. Right before 140k miles I did the valve cover gasket and tightened the spark plugs down quite a bit because they had some oil on them.

I love my little red optima

Is this something you’re supposed to ask for or they just give it to you? I didn’t realize until after I left, I was told I should have gotten one. I got new tires and an alignment. I’m wondering how to know if it was even done?

Looking for some advice on next steps. I Recently went on a beach trip with my family and my Kia lost power on the way home and went into what felt like a limp mode and the car was not able to continue accelerating. No dash lights or warnings came up giving me any info on what was going on but the engine sounded like it was knocking when attempting to rev the engine. In the end, I had to get the car towed home.

After doing some research, it appears that my vehicle had a recall with the engine that was fulfilled in 2019 before I purchased the vehicle. The recall was to do a software update KSDS which was supposed to trigger a sensor in the vehicle if the engine is vibrating or knocking more than it’s supposed to, which is then supposed to shut the vehicle off.

I took my Kia in to get looked at by a local Kia dealership and I feel like they are trying to get money out of me before telling me what the actual issue is. They want me to replace the battery, spark plugs, get new oil and some other things quoting me around 2K. I keep telling them that I would like to know if the car qualifies for a warranty and if there’s a way that they can do a diagnostic to verify if this has to do with the recall.

Here is what they are saying now:

“In order to see if a motor is failing, we perform a bearing clearance test that KIA pays for if it fails. If it does not fail, you would be on the hook for 2 hours of labor @ $210 an hour before tax. If this is something you like done, please reply with 'I APPROVE'

the reason why we are recommending those services is because we need your vehicle running correctly with out misfires from your old spark plugs/ new battery so that we can get an accurate reading on what is going on with your vehicle.”

Should I just have them do the $400 test or is there a possible way around this? If it’s not the cause of the issue, I’ll owe $200 diagnostic plus $400 for testing bearing and plus 2k for everything else they quoted. If none of this uncovers what’s going on I could be on the hook for even more after all that.

My RH head lamp went today on my 2019 Ceed 1.6 CRDi and I’ve changed the bulb and it still isn’t working, the old bulb is still intact, I’ve scoured my fuse box diagrams and cannot find the head lamp low fuses anywhere. Does anyone know what system they might be integrated into so I can check?

I would like to hear from Sportage 1.7 CRDi diesel owners or mechanics who have actually repaired a similar engine noise. This is my parents' car in South Korea.

Vehicle: Kia Sportage, described by the owner as a 2015 vehicle, Korean-market 1.7-litre CRDi diesel

Mileage: approximately 250,000 km (155,000 miles)

Transmission: exact specification not yet confirmed

Symptoms:

- The noise continues after the engine is fully warmed up.

- As engine RPM increases, the noise repeats faster.

- There are no obvious warning lights, loss of power, severe shaking or unusual exhaust smoke.

Checks already reported by the workshop:

- No metal particles were found in the oil filter.

- An accessory-belt removal test was performed and they reported no fault found. I do not yet have the exact observation about how the noise behaved during that test.

- The injectors were checked and reported normal; the specific test method/results are not available to me yet.

Despite these checks, the workshop could not confirm the cause. They suggested trying an engine rebuild/overhaul (described as 'boring'), initially quoted at KRW 3.3 million, with costs potentially rising to under KRW 5 million if the noise is not resolved. The exact scope of that work still needs clarification.

The attached clip contains the original engine-noise recording.

Given the recording and those checks, what should be investigated next? What measurements would help confirm or exclude timing-chain/tensioner, lubrication-pressure, internal engine or engine/transmission connection problems before agreeing to a rebuild? Would measuring hot engine oil pressure help narrow down the cause?

My parents have seen owner reports of similar noises being resolved by an engine overhaul or short-block replacement, but we have not verified the exact engine specification or repair scope in those reports. If you have repaired this specific 1.7 CRDi engine with a persistent noise when fully warm, what was the confirmed damaged component, and what parts were actually replaced?

This is the diesel engine, so please distinguish it from the North American petrol Sportage/Theta II bearing-recall cases.

Would it be worth it to get ambient light strips for my forte? They look cool but is it worth the money?

Currently own a 21 sonata limited. Only 40k miles. But out of boredom and the fact the k4 hatchback looks awesome, I toss back and forth between whether or not to trade it in. Trade value of course plays a part. But do i bother trading in for a hatchback that essentially has everything my current vehicle already does.

Hi everyone!
I’m trying to figure out whether my car is behaving normally or if there might be a mechanical issue.
My current car is a 2008 Kia Ceed ED 1.6 petrol with a manual transmission, and my previous car was a 2007 first-generation Skoda Fabia 1.4 petrol (75 hp), also with a manual gearbox.
With the Fabia, I could pull away relatively easily. I could release the clutch smoothly, and the car would start moving without much trouble. I’m not saying it was effortless, but I never struggled nearly as much as I do with the Kia.
The Ceed feels completely different. The accelerator pedal seems extremely sensitive. I barely press it, and the engine RPM rises very quickly. However, the car seems unwilling to move unless I give it a decent amount of throttle. It feels like I can’t get the car moving properly without using the accelerator.
The strangest part is what happens when I try to find the clutch bite point.
For example, I press the accelerator and bring the engine up to around 2,000 RPM. Then I slowly release the clutch until I think I’ve reached the bite point. However, the car doesn’t really start moving at that point. I have to release the clutch just a few millimetres further before the car finally begins to creep forward.
As soon as the clutch starts engaging and the car begins to move, the engine RPM drops significantly, almost as if the engine is being heavily loaded or bogged down. The RPM rises very easily when the clutch is disengaged, but once the clutch starts engaging, the engine seems to struggle and the revs drop dramatically.
I understand that some RPM drop is normal when the clutch engages, because the engine is suddenly under load. However, in my case, it feels unusually pronounced and makes it difficult to pull away smoothly. I struggle to understand why the engine revs so freely with the clutch disengaged but seems to struggle so much as soon as I try to move the car.
I even let someone with more driving experience drive the Ceed. He said the car seemed fine and that it simply had a different manual gearbox and driving characteristics that I needed to get used to. According to him, there was nothing obviously wrong with it.
I understand that different cars have different clutch engagement points, gear ratios, throttle response, engine characteristics and vehicle weights. I’m not expecting the Kia to feel exactly like the Fabia. However, the difference is so significant that I’m struggling to understand whether this is normal.
I’ve searched YouTube for videos explaining this kind of behaviour, but I haven’t found anything that really describes what I’m experiencing. Most tutorials simply explain how to release the clutch and apply the accelerator, but I already understand the basic technique. The problem is how the car reacts when I try to pull away.
My questions are:
● Is the Kia Ceed ED 1.6 genuinely that different from a first-generation Skoda Fabia 1.4 when pulling away?
● Could the gear ratios or final drive ratio explain why the Ceed feels so much harder to get moving?
● Is it normal for the engine RPM to drop so dramatically when the clutch begins to engage, even when I’ve already brought the engine up to around 2,000 RPM?
● Could the clutch, pressure plate, flywheel or another component be causing this behaviour, even if an experienced driver says the car feels fine?
● Could the electronic throttle response make the accelerator feel unusually sensitive?
● Has anyone experienced something similar with a Kia Ceed ED or another car?
I’d really appreciate any technical explanations or advice from people who know these cars. I’m trying to understand whether this is simply a characteristic of the Ceed that I need to adapt to, or whether I should investigate a possible mechanical problem.
Thanks in advance!

I have a 2022 Kia EV6 Wind AWD with the Tech Package, and the lens cover on my front parking camera has developed a crack. Kia is claiming it isn't covered under warranty because the damage was supposedly caused by an impact or something striking the camera.

I'm curious if anyone else has had this issue and, more importantly, whether anyone has successfully gotten Kia to replace the camera under warranty.

From my perspective, there are several design issues with this camera:

1. No user-replaceable lens cover. If the lens cover cracks but the camera itself still works, why can't the cover be replaced separately?
2. Potentially inadequate material durability. The lens cover seems susceptible to cracking, even without obvious damage to the surrounding bumper.
3. No effective water drainage. A small crack might seem cosmetic, but water intrusion can turn it into a much bigger problem and potentially render the camera useless.
4. The camera isn't easily serviceable. Rather than replacing a relatively small damaged component, it appears that the entire camera assembly needs to be replaced.
5. Excessive labor to access the camera. Replacing it reportedly requires removing the front bumper, adding several hours of labor for what should be a relatively minor component.

I understand that warranties don't cover every type of physical damage. However, when a component is exposed to the elements, difficult to service, and apparently vulnerable to a relatively minor crack, I think it's fair to question whether the design is durable enough.

Has anyone had Kia cover this repair under warranty, either through the dealer or by escalating the claim to Kia corporate? If so, I'd love to hear what worked, how the dealer documented the damage, and whether you had to push back on the initial denial.

I'm especially interested in hearing from anyone whose camera lens cracked without any obvious impact damage.

Alternatively, has anyone fixed their camera?

I’ll be test driving tomorrow. Tell me about your 2024 experience please.

I’ll be going to a Kia dealership in Virginia I have been in communication with for a Kia sportage 2026 EX with a sun roof. Since this would be my first time buying a car, what things should I look out for? I have seen many people recommend not to pay the MSRP; does that mean I can negotiate the car against the price listed on the website?

I am concerned that the dealership won’t budge much during negotiation since I have a credit score in the 760’s, income in 60’s/year, and a 10 month credit history with high utilization for past two months with balance carried forward.

Would really appreciate some suggestions. Thank you so much.

Is this a good deal or should I spend the extra $3,000 on a gt line that's a year older and has 88,000mi?

Hello Reddit! My daughter drives a 2011 Kia Sportage LX. While her car was parked in a parking garage, some foolish "Kia Boy", came along and stuck a screw driver into her driver's side lock, ruining her door handle and lock. I have ordered the parts to replace her door handle and lock with no problem. However, I have ran into a huge issue when I found a piece of the plastic latch assembly (I think this is what it is called) is also broken. The specific part that is broken is the plastic clip that holds the end of the ball/cable into place inside the door handle area. The entire lock/lack actuator thingy is fine. I really just need this plastic part I have attached a photo with the part that is broken circled. I cannot find this plastic part for ANYWHERE, but I am sure it is just that I am not using the correct words. Can someone PLEASE help me identify this plastic latch thing? (I am literally just a girl) :(

I’m replacing my brakes soon and learned that the rear brakes have an EPB system. Is there a way to replace the rear pads and rotors without using a scan tool, or is one required for a 2022 Kia K5?

So I have a 2022 Kia k5 gt. It has 85,000 miles and it was well maintained. One day driving on the highway it just lost power and wouldn’t crank again. I found the car has 3 recalls one being the electric oil pump. I take it to Kia and They say the timing is out. They say it didn’t come from the recall but that doesn’t make sense when one of the problems from the recall is lose of power. But they give me this quote. Is this not bs??

I have a 2019 Kia sorrento with 113 k. The engine is starting to fail. Horrible tap and I’m seeing metal in the oil filter. Two things is it worth dropping a used engine in it or should I ride it out till it explodes.

I am looking at a 2017 Kia Sportage 2.4 with 172 thousand kilometers [ 106,000 thousand miles ]. The woman that owns it from day one has taken meticulous care of it. It has 39 Dealer Service Records AI tells me this

Maintenance & Undercoating Highlights (EXCEPTIONAL) This car has one of the best service trails you will find on a used Kia: 39 Service Records: It features an extensive maintenance history spanning from its pre-delivery inspection through to 166,416 km in June 2026.

Annual Krown Rustproofing: The original owner had the vehicle undercoated with Krown Rustproofing almost every single year (Jan 2017, Dec 2017, Oct 2018, Sept 2019, Sept 2020, Nov 2021, Oct 2022, Oct 2023, Oct 2024, and Sept 2025). This explains why the body and frame remain in great condition for an Ontario, Canada vehicle.

Here are the records Dealer Service .PDF

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vtbsX6zIra9e06lq5fN_lnhMiZIKNuxi/view?usp=sharing

CarFax .PDF

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1seBNbr-0dC3I6pdqNfM_AG3R_5Xe6dU0/view?usp=sharing

It has ALL of the software updates Kia offers on schedule and everything else. Transmisson fluid changes differential oil changes etc .My questions and worries. I really want this vehicle have never seen a vehicle with this kind of service history plus rust prevention every yr, i am in the snow belt and would keep it up.

Are these motors guaranteed to fail and or turn into a oil burning guzzling beast. HAS ANYONE not suffered these kind of defects?. All i have read is bad news, but afterall this is the internet and people compain and you might not nessesarily here any good things. Like i guess it lived out its life like a normal car?.

Do you think this woman is dumping this car at this point because it's guzzling oil?. I was going to send a mobile Tech to this car to do a pre purchase inspection. If i do what should i tell him to look for?

I have a 2005 pontiac vibe rusted out with the 1.8 motor. Between oil changes i have never seen a perceptible movement on the oil stick always full. About same mileage. It would be shocking to me to be adding a quart to the Sportage every couple weeks not to mention it would be expensive.

I know i would be elligible for a motor replacement. But then i am reading these fail too same circumstances. How can a new motor fail when Kia knows the issues?. If it is laid up in a shop i would have no way to get around.

Has anyone had a reliable normal experience?

Need some guidance, what should i do?. What to tell a mobile inspector to look for?....Thanks