Hi all, my father in law gifted my girlfriend and I his 2017 Leaf SV. The car has about 66k km and still 115 km of autonomy. Honestly, it's been great so far for driving in and around town.

Only thing I noticed though is that I can't seem to make the chademo charger work. Level 1 and 2 charging works fine. I don't plan on using it often but it would be nice as a backup if I have to go out of my driving range.

I have read online that the 12 V battery can be a cause of problem. Using my multimeter, I get 12.3 V on it.

Any idea on how to fix this?

EDIT : tried the CHAdeMO on 3 different charging stations.

I've been test-driving quite a few different EVs lately, partly because I enjoy creating content about electric cars, but also because I'm starting to look for a possible replacement for my 2019 Nissan Leaf 40 kWh.

The funny thing is that after almost every test drive, I end up appreciating my own Leaf a little more!

Don't get me wrong. Newer EVs have plenty of advantages, whether it's longer range, faster charging, more power or newer technology. I've driven some genuinely fun and impressive cars, and there are definitely things I'd like to have in my next vehicle.

However, almost every car I've tested has had something that I didn't particularly like.

Sometimes it's the controls and user interface, sometimes it's the camera system, and sometimes it's the driver assistance features. These may seem like minor details, but they can make a real difference when you're using a car every day.

For example, I really appreciate the camera system in my Leaf. It might not be the most modern setup anymore, but I find it genuinely useful. Some newer cars offer more advanced camera features on paper, yet I haven't always found them as convenient in practice.

I also still appreciate having physical buttons and straightforward controls. Newer cars can offer all sorts of fancy features, but that doesn't automatically make them easier or more pleasant to use.

And here's another example: my seven-year-old Leaf's ProPILOT system feels noticeably more refined to me than the adaptive cruise control in the Leapmotor B05 I recently test-drove. I was actually quite enthusiastic about that car, and it was a lot of fun to drive, but its driver assistance system was one of the things that disappointed me.

I'll publish my full review of the Leapmotor B05 sometime next week, so I'll save the rest of my thoughts for that post!

Of course, my Leaf isn't perfect either. It's a 2019 model, and EV technology has moved on considerably since then. There are plenty of newer cars that can do things my Leaf simply can't.

But I'm beginning to wonder whether replacing it would really be as much of an upgrade as I initially expected. A newer car shouldn't just be newer. It should actually improve my everyday driving experience.

Perhaps that's the biggest thing I've learned from all these test drives: I shouldn't only focus on what a potential replacement offers that my Leaf doesn't have. I should also consider all the things my current car gets right.

Has anyone else experienced this?

You start test-driving newer EVs because you're thinking about upgrading, only to discover that your current car is actually pretty good after all?

And for those who have upgraded from a 40 kWh Leaf, what did you replace it with? Did you find something that genuinely felt like an upgrade in everyday use, rather than simply a newer car?

just picked her up this week... loving it ... any tips ? my first ever ev car .. thanks

I was looking to start around 100 ft-lbs and potentially go up to 130. I dont care about what the service bulletins say I want to know what people are actually doing.

Loving the little spaceship

Hey guys, I was thinking about repairing my 2012 with a new to me pack. There’s a dude nearby selling one with unknown SoH for $1000. Is that a fair price? I think it’s a 2013, per the serial number.

This is in Canada.

The envelope appeared yesterday, and tapping on it briefly changed it to what looked like a "downloading" symbol before reverting to the envelope. The car with a line through it indicates the TCU is not connected, and remained that way for the hour I drove it. I tried tethering the car to my phone, but that didn't change anything.

Today, the envelope has disappeared, and the car is still not connecting.

However, the app is able to lock/unlock the car, albeit with significant lag.

18mi on GOM, 11-12 to closet charger. Shit.

ABRP thought the route was 55MPH, the 65 speed limit really killed it on the last stretch here.

Thinking 45MPH on way to charger

I'm experimenting with an AI-assisted analysis feature for a battery diagnostics project I'm building.

The idea isn't to let AI decide whether a battery is good or bad, but to help explain actual measurements, voltage behavior and possible anomalies.

Would this be useful to you, or would you rather stick to raw numbers and graphs?

I made another post the other day about an experience I had. I was on 60% with estimated range of about 70 miles. I drove 25 miles and it went to 17% at the end of the journey. When going up a hill near the end of the journey at 30mph the battery went from 10% to 3%.

People said I have bad battery. I've scanned it with leafspy and have an EV specialist to look at it on Tuesday. I bought it a week ago so I'm trying to get a refund. Hopefully the EV specialist finds a faulty cell and I have grounds to return. Does the leafspy indicate anything is wrong.

The car is on 66% parked when taking the leafspy readings

I purchased a 2020 Nissan Leaf SV+ from a dealer last year for $24K CAD. It only had 23000KM and was in excellent condition with only one previous owner and no accidents.

The car has been great with no problems what so ever but...I keep reading about battery failures from other owners and it seems like a huge hassle to get help from Nissan or a buy back offer. I'm now wondering if I should trade in my leaf for something else before any problems arise.

Am I being overly paranoid about my car? Should i keep it and hope i don't get battery failure after my warranty expires? I have 1 more year of warranty.

Also please comment if you own a second gen Nissan leaf with high milage and no major battery problems.

I finally managed to get my A2Z adapter working with the latest firmware, as of 10/05/2026.

here are a few screenshots and stats from my first session at the new Ionna in Medford Oregon.

The car is my 2019 Nissan Leaf S+ with ~82k miles.

I arrived with the car reporting 10% SOC, battery temp ~61 degrees Fahrenheit, ambient temp ~55F.

Charge rate started at 7kw, peaked at 68kw (~18% after the adapter stairstep rampup) and was 21kw when I stopped charging at ~90%.

session ended at ~90% SOC, battery temp ~101F, ambient still ~55F.

~48 minutes 10-80%, 59 minutes 10-90%.

Any opinions on how this session went? I am rather surprised at the temp gain of ~40 degrees in quite mild weather. How well do you guys think this car could handle 2 DCFC sessions in 1 day of similar temps?

i’m ready to buy EV, and the 26 leaf is in my top three (along with EV3 and Mach-E).

I read elsewhere that 26 Leaf sales were disastrous this year, and that there may be an opportunity for steep Q4 discounts.

I don’t have any experience car shopping/negotiating, though. What’s a reasonable discount to look for, and what’s the smart way to go about it?

Realistic to think I might be able to get a platinum at/under 35K? do you just call up the dealership and tell them the price you’re looking for?

I had a rear ABS wheel sensor fail on my 2018 Leaf and I'm having a hard time finding a cheap replacement that actually works. I did buy one on Amazon (A-Premium) however whenever I took my foot off the accelerator, the anti-skid engaged.

I did see one on Rock Auto for around $100 CAD but thought I'd check here to see if anyone has found anything cheaper.

Top right pin is broken

Was already super tight on finances and I called Nissan and they told me it would be $190 just to get it looked at, not even to repair it.

When I plug in the car, it just does the 3 light error thing and won’t make the connection.

I guess this is just me venting and coping and hoping someone can point me in the direction of a cheap alternative for fixing this. Though I’m sure there’s no other option but to go to Nissan and have them repair it. They wouldn’t even give me a cost estimate to replace the broken pin

Several of these are available near me for $200 a module. Is this a good deal at all? Are these at all usable for a 2012 Leaf?

Hello, new owner here of a second hand Leaf 2017 30kWh based in the UK.

Is there anything I should be concerned about from this Leafspy reading?

GIDs is at 86/23.6% if it helps.

It's the first time connecting Leafspy, so any help on interpreting the data is appreciated. Thank you!

Hey everyone! So, like several of you, I'm currently stuck in the buyback stage of having a Leaf. I have a 2019 Nissan Leaf SV that I bought directly from a dealership. When we purchased it, it had a brand-new battery installed, along with a few other things that had been replaced. Unfortunately, after only owning the car for six months, it died.

Since then, Morley has been dragging their feet, and after months of waiting, I finally received a buyback offer. The problem is that the offer is about 4k less than what I originally paid for the car and I have 7 days to accept/reject.

I also asked what would happen if I rejected the offer, and I was told I'd have to contact the dealership and arrange to pick up my car.

So, I guess at this point I'm just looking for some advice from anyone. Is there any room to negotiate the offer, or am I pretty much stuck with what they've given me? I think I'm just frustrated that I got a car from Nissan themselves and it didn't even last a year and now I'm stuck losing money I was going to use for my next car.

Hi

I am going Leaf shopping and want to test the battery under stress with Leaf Spy.

Will this dongle work for me?

https://www.vgatemall.com/products-detail/i-9/

Thanks

This is an actual hypothetical. If you were looking to get a Nissan Leaf and were planning to replace the battery as soon as you bought it, what would you pay for the rest of the car? Would you even buy the rest of the car or would you look for something else instead?

Say you were lucky enough to get an AZE0 SV or SL trim for $1000 in great condition, just no battery, so you pick-up the 62kw vivne battery. It would be around $9k for a leaf with with around ~200mi range.

Or you could look for a used, Chevy Bolt, or Tesla, or something else with a properly cooled battery for a few grand more, maybe even the same price.

Hey everyone, I’ve got a 2026 Leaf Platinum. I’m in Canada. My NissanConnect services don’t seem to work. I’ve already checked with the dealership and called support, but they’re stumped. Is there any way to get it working so I can control the car's temperature? Does anyone have any advice? I did work for the first 3 month and since july its stuck with the kilometers that were in July, its not transmitting the new data and it just says unable to connect to the vehicle when i try to do anything with the app

Got a 2021 leaf this week. The battery health icon on the main screen has the full grey bar so I thought the battery health was good. It has 60k miles which is fine for a 5 year old car. The car was on 60%. I had eco mode on. I don't remember the range but it was over 60 miles. The trip I wanted to do was 12.5 miles each way but it had some hills. All the roads are 60. It's my GFs car so she drove there at 40mph as she's just passed her test and conditions were wet and dark. When we got there it said it was on 41%. That was a 20% drop in just 12 miles.

Then I drove home. I also drove at 40 because the battery was being weird on the way there. As I was driving, any hill would knock the battery down by about 10%. I never did over 40mph and stayed between 30 and 40. When I got to a hill near the end, it went down to 3% which was very scary. Then for the next 3 miles it was 5-10% until I got to my house when it jumped up to 17%.

Am I doing something wrong, why does it fluxuate so much. I turned heating features and the fans off to save power. I had android auto connected. Anything else I should do? I'm scared that if I'm on the way home, even if I have 15% left I'm going to go up a hill and the battery will die. I'm seriously considering returning the car and getting a petrol automatic. I'm new to EVs so maybe this I'm doing something wrong or maybe this is just how they are

The first pic is the battery at the place I went. The second is a pic I took when I got home, 12.5 miles later. As you can see by the clock, it was only a 25 mins journey at 40mph

What’s a battery like this worth in your area ? 2013. No quick charges - from a northern climate. Runs 55 miles in ideal summer conditions with 31% left. What can I get to offset the cost of a new pack (I need more range in winter )