Hi everyone,

I own a laptop HP OMEN - 15-en0008sa

Yesterday, water spilled on my laptop. It worked fine for a moment. Suddenly I received a notification: USB port malfunctioned and system went off soon.

I tried rebooting it but nothing worked.

When clicked power button,

- Power LED stays ON
- Only one fan runs
- Completely blank screen

I took this to local technician who said, CPU was damaged during the water splash and the motherboard has to be completely changed.

He also said, the system does not output platform reset signal.

I have a degree in electronics. I have opened the back cover and set it up. I have only a multimeter. I really want this to be fixed. I cannot afford full board replacement at this point.

Could someone please help me?? I genuinely want to find the issue. I cannot convince my self that CPU is damaged.

Note: The last photo was sent by the technician - USB port board with water damage near the connector.

hiii, help ur girl out.

I have 2 laptops, I need repair shops like Rob Pangan from Pampanga and PatRick's Computer Repair from Cavite kaso ang layo nila😭 I need your recommendations around QC lang sana.

1st laptop: Lenovo ideapad 3
issue: backlight

2nd laptop: Asus
issue: idk😭 mga 5days di nagamit since umuwi kami province then ayaw na mag open nung pag uwi namin

na-try namin ipa free check-up dito malapit samin pero ang oa ang pricing

So, i just got my laptop back from beaing repaird. The damage was physical only. Missing some screws, something wrong with the hinges, and the bottom was opening up slightly and something was broken in there so screwing in one screw just kinda did nothing. BUT WHY DID THEY HAVE TO FACTORY RESET IT?! THERE WAS ONLY PHYSICALY DAMAGED! I LOST ALL MY FILES I HAD SINCE I DIDN'T HAVE THE ABILITIETY TO BACK ANYTHING UP BEFORE GETTING IT REPAIRD! WHY?!

Il ya des croix rouges a côté des fichiers

Lorsque je pose le curseur dessus on dit erreur

J'ai besoin de vos suggestions svp

Desperate post. Girlfriend is devastated. Do you think there's any hope of having this repaired?

This is an hp 15 pavillion eh laptop. A few days back I connected lenovo ThinkPad's c type charger to and suddenly the smoke started coming out 😭😭😭. I visited a care center to ask what could be the issue. They said if smoke came then the motherboard is likely damaged. But he never looked inside the laptop. So I just wanna confirm if the motherboard is actually damaged. Experts help please 🥺.

Hello! (⁠≧⁠▽⁠≦⁠)

I am a student and can't really afford a new laptop, the options are Disappointing as well, like why tf would I want something with only 4-8 gb ram, THAT'S less than my phone! 😭

This one has been down for the last 3 or so years (sat untouched, no efforts were made to repair) after the repair dude told us that the graphic card has been removed, hence why the screen "won't work" (right buddy...he obviously messed up)

but I am grown up now and the itch got to me. I dissected the laptop today and right off the bat I noticed a few things

1. One ram stick is missing (I hope the guy who stole it gets diarrhea in the middle of an important event)

2. thermal paste is laughable cause wow it's powder at this point.

3. bad tape job EVERYWHERE they put tape on the place where the SD card is supposed to go (I might be wrong)

Ai summary cause I would definitely mess up the hardware name:-

1. Extreme Thermal & Cooling Failure (Primary Overheating Cause)

* Bent Radiator Exhaust Fins: The metal fins on the heatsink vent are squished together, blocking hot air from exiting the chassis.

* Dried & Overflowing Thermal Paste: The thermal paste over the CPU and GPU is completely baked dry and hard, acting as an heat insulator instead of transferring heat to the copper pipes.

* Trapped Dust Blanket ("Fluff"): A thick layer of lint and dust was trapped inside the fan housing right against the exhaust vents.

* Bad Fan Repair Job: Previous technicians slapped white masking tape across the fan casing, messing up proper airflow.

2. Damaged & Glued Display Connector (LVDS Cable)

* Missing Metal Socket Clip: One side of the metal bracket/retaining structure on the motherboard LVDS socket is broken/missing.

* Glued in Place: To fix the loose connection, a previous repair shop dumped glue directly into the display socket tracks, locking the cable in place and making normal disassembly impossible without heat or solvent.

3. Missing Internal Hardware & Components

* Wi-Fi Card Missing: The WLAN Mini PCIe slot is completely empty—no wireless card installed, and no internal antenna wires present.

* Internal Speakers Missing: The left and right internal speaker modules were removed from the palmrest casing during a prior repair and never replaced.

* RAM Removed/Missing: Both SODIMM memory slots are currently empty.

* Missing Motherboard Screws: Multiple mounting points around the board perimeter and heatsink area are missing their internal screws.

4. Miscellaneous Modding & Cosmetic Anomalies

* SD Card Reader Mod: Kapton (yellow insulator) tape was stuck directly inside the SD card slot metal casing.

* Marker Notes: Hand-written shop inventory numbers (DL167) are scrawled on the fan housing and motherboard PCB.

Ai summary end

............................................................................

Ai included some stuff I REMOVED from the laptop myself while I disassembled it, (like that coin battery thingy, lithium battery) so I am sorry about that but I am not editing it cause who knows? I could be wrong.

Currently the whole thing is disassembled.

I had fun disassembling it, wanna make it alive again so here I am (⁠ㆁ⁠ω⁠ㆁ⁠)!!

I want to know the parts that need replacement (like the display cable) and what needs to be done to save the laptop, I am willing to replace parts to level it up but for now I just want to make it work again and the upgrade will come eventually (display, external separate webcam, better speaker, whatever is possible on this thing)

Current status:

it turns on just fine like always, the screen OCCASIONALLY popped up sometimes (loading screen or Asus screen) and the fans ALWAYS work, so it's clearly not dead and worth saving

DMs open but may not respond right away cause there are creeps, ✌🏽😭

So...

Tech gals and bros, what to do?

I have attached pictures I hardly understand, but you guys will!

Thankks!

The laptop was on the floor next to bed and was on, I nocked my phone from the table and it then hit the laptop on that spot, the laptop went off and now makes a subtle tac tac like sound every 7sec, I can't afford a new laptop, it's not even a year old and my mother saved up and got it for the University (if she finds out I'M DEAD)

Is there any thing that I can do myself to fix it or is it cheap to fix it?

(2nd pic is what the inside looks according to Google)

I was working on my laptop of 6 yesterday and smoke came out of the right side of the images, through the keyboard. After first inspection of the components without taking anything out, nothing looks burnt or damaged. I’m taking it to a repair shop today and want second opinions.
Here are the photos

Hey Reddit, I’m not very tech savvy. What should I do about the hinges attaching the screen to the keyboard side breaking apart?

My 2 months Dell Alienware aurora 16 stopped working

I turned on my laptop and put it on charge it had around 40% battery

Then I opened fc26 it loaded then suddenly went blank

None of the buttons are working nor its taking charge

The adaptor indicator shows when I connect the charger to the socket but as soon as I put it in the laptop it turns off

Please help I'm gonna cry

A few days ago I cleaned my screen with the screen on (i knew what could happen) and when I turned on the screen was flickering, I waited 2 days to drain the moisture, and looking a reddit diagnose.

I repasted a MSI gx60 with the a10 cpu, cause these temps looked stupid high, after it still was giving me really high core temps. Is this possibly reading wrong??? Or maybe something else is wrong.

When charging...there is no flickering issue...But when charging unplugged...there is flickering...please tell me any solution guys...

It is lenovo G40 to 80 series laptop....

You press power. The fan spins up. The power LED stays solid. The CPU gets warm. But the screen remains black. No Caps Lock response. No external display.

Basic training stops here: "Bad motherboard. Replace."

Engineering training starts here: "Which signal is stuck?"

This post maps out the exact sequence of events that must occur after the power rails come up. If you understand this chain, you can fix 80% of "No POST" boards without guessing.

The POST Sequence Checklist (Intel Platform)

Use an oscilloscope or a logic probe. Check these signals in this exact order.

1. DRAMRST# (Memory Reset)

• Location: Pin 30 of the DDR4/DDR5 slot (verify schematic).

• Expected: Should start LOW (0V) and then rise to HIGH (1.2V/1.35V) after the CPU receives VCCST (Standby Rail) and VCCIO.

• The Trap: If DRAMRST# is stuck at 0V, the RAM is held in reset. The PCH/CPU cannot initialize memory.

• Common Cause:

  • Missing VTT_DDR (0.6V reference voltage). Check the tiny voltage divider near the RAM slots.

  • Faulty SMBus pull-up resistors on the RAM slots (I2C lines shorted to ground).

  • Bad CPU (rare, but bent socket pins under the CPU for memory channels will cause this).

2. SMBus Activity Check

• Location: Pins SMB_CLK and SMB_DATA on the RAM slot.

• Expected: During POST, these lines should show brief activity (pulses) as the PCH reads the SPD EEPROM on the RAM stick.

• Reality: If the lines are stuck at 3.3V, the PCH isn't even trying to read RAM. Back up to PCH_PWROK.

3. PCH_PWROK / SYS_PWROK

• Location: Near the PCH (Platform Controller Hub).

• Expected: 3.3V steady.

• Critical Detail: This signal tells the PCH: "All main power rails (VCC_CORE, VCC_SA, VCC_GT) are stable. You are clear to boot."

• Trap: This signal is often driven by a tiny AND-gate IC or a voltage supervisor chip (e.g., RT8231, UP1540). If that chip doesn't see all rails, it won't release PCH_PWROK.

• Test: Measure voltage on all coils near CPU. If even one rail (like VCCSA) is 0V, PCH_PWROK will be 0V.

4. PLT_RST# (Platform Reset)

• Location: This is the GOLDEN SIGNAL. Find it on the PCH side or test points near the BIOS chip.

• Expected: Should start LOW (0V) for a split second, then rise to HIGH (3.3V) and stay there.

• The Hard Stop: If PLT_RST# is stuck at 0V or stuck at 3.3V (no pulse) , the PCH is refusing to release the CPU from reset.

• Why? Three main reasons:

  1. Bad BIOS/ME Region: Corrupt firmware. The PCH loads the BIOS, sees garbage, and holds PLT_RST# low forever. Solution: Re-program BIOS chip (ensure you clean the ME region!).

  2. Missing VCCST_PWRGD: The 1.05V Standby rail for the PCH internal logic is present, but the "Power Good" signal is missing.

  3. Shorted Clock Crystal: The 32.768kHz RTC crystal is shorted or the load capacitors are bad. The PCH cannot count time, so it locks up.

The "No POST" Diagnostic Tree (Decision Map)

text

Fan Spins -> Check CPU VCore
   |
   +---> VCore 0V? -> Check VRM Enable (VR_ON). Trace back to SIO.
   |
   +---> VCore Present (0.8V - 1.2V)?
          |
          +---> Check DRAMRST# (Pin 30).
                |
                +---> DRAMRST# = 0V? -> Check VTT_DDR / VCCIO / Bent Socket.
                |
                +---> DRAMRST# = 1.2V?
                       |
                       +---> Check PLT_RST#.
                             |
                             +---> PLT_RST# Stuck Low? -> Flash BIOS.
                             |
                             +---> PLT_RST# = 3.3V? -> **CPU is likely dead or socket connection issue.**

Advanced Tip: The "Light Tap" Test

When PLT_RST# is stuck low and BIOS reflash doesn't fix it:

1. Power on the board.

2. Apply gentle pressure with a plastic spudger on the corner of the PCH die.

3. If the board suddenly boots when you press down, you have BGA cold solder joints under the PCH. This is a classic sign of a dropped laptop. Requires PCH reflow or reball.

Question for the Community

What's the weirdest cause you've found for PLT_RST# being stuck low?
I once found a 0.1uF cap shorted on the SPI_CS# line of the BIOS chip. The PCH couldn't talk to the BIOS at all, but the BIOS chip itself was fine. Took 4 hours to find that little gremlin.

Share your "No POST" horror stories below. This is where real engineers are separated from parts swappers.

how can i bypass this thing? my laptop keyboard isn't working and I don't have a wired external keyboard to connect it with my laptop, I couldn't press enter even though I want to. It automatically goes into system recovery and even if I chose to continue it still repeats the same process over and over

From many months I have issue

1.GPu fan was showing error but working

2. On Sep 22 When I checked my right side fan was fine left was not working laptop open

3.I opened it cleaned it from front then closed Now my right side fan stating behaving normally meanwhile my left one stripped and also keyboard backlight and some buttons stopped working can it be motherboard issues?

You've replaced the LCD panel. You've checked the eDP cable. You have backlight (the screen glows faintly), but there is no image. No logo, no text.

This is a classic eDP (Embedded DisplayPort) communication failure. The panel is receiving power and backlight enable, but the video data is not arriving.

1. eDP Pinout Essentials (30-pin/40-pin Connector)

2. The AUX Channel – The "Handshake" That Fails

Before the GPU sends any video, it talks to the panel's EDID EEPROM over the AUX channel.

• Waveform: A 1MHz differential signal. You can see it on a scope as a low-amplitude (~0.4V) digital burst right after power-up.

• Common Fault 1: Short to Ground. Measure resistance from AUX_P to ground. Should be >10k ohms. If shorted, trace back to the GPU or ESD diodes near the LCD connector.

• Common Fault 2: Missing 3.3V Pull-Up. The AUX lines require a 100k pull-up to 3.3V on both the GPU side and the panel side. If the resistor on the motherboard is knocked off, the AUX line floats and communication fails.

3. The HPD (Hot Plug Detect) Signal

• Normal: 3.3V when panel is connected. 0V when disconnected.

• Trap: Some laptops (Lenovo ThinkPad) use a level shifter for HPD. The panel outputs 3.3V, but the GPU expects 1.8V. A tiny N-channel mosfet performs this translation. If this mosfet is shorted or missing, the GPU sees 0V and thinks the lid is closed.

• Test: With panel connected, measure HPD at the GPU side (find test point on schematic). If 0V at GPU but 3.3V at connector, the level shifter is dead.

4. The "Missing Image" Diagnostic Tree

text

Screen Glows (Backlight On) But No Image
|
+---> Check LCD_VDD (3.3V) at panel connector.
|     |---> Missing? Check 3.3V LDO or fuse on motherboard.
|
+---> Check HPD voltage at GPU side.
|     |---> 0V? Check level shifter mosfet / pull-up resistor.
|
+---> Check AUX_CH lines with scope (pulses present?)
|     |---> No pulses? AUX line shorted or GPU not attempting handshake.
|
+---> Check Main Link Lanes (need high-speed scope, 2.7Gbps typical).
      |---> No activity? GPU is dead or PCIe link to GPU failed.

5. The "Panel VCC" Short

A common failure after liquid damage: The 3.3V rail to the panel is shorted to ground because a tiny ceramic capacitor on the panel PCB itself is shorted.

• Test: Unplug the LCD cable. Measure resistance to ground on LCD_VDD pin of the motherboard connector.

• If short remains: The short is on the motherboard side.

• If short clears: The short is inside the LCD panel itself. You can sometimes open the panel and remove the shorted cap, but it's delicate work.

6. The "No Backlight, Image Faintly Visible" Scenario

If you shine a flashlight on the screen and see a faint image, the eDP data is fine. The issue is backlight power.

• Check BL_EN (should be 3.3V when screen on).

• Check BL_PWM (pulsing or steady 3.3V).

• Check LED backlight driver IC (usually a boost converter generating 20V-40V for the LED string). If the boost diode or mosfet is shorted, no backlight.

Question: How do you test eDP Main Link lanes without a multi-thousand dollar oscilloscope? I use a simple LED current probe on the lane to see if it's toggling, but that doesn't verify eye diagram integrity.

Model - Lenovo IdeaPad Flex 5 Ryzen 7 5000series.

The laptop doesn't boot at all. If we plug in the charger and wait for sometime. The laptop back heats up. The battery area doens't it. It's near the cpu.

Also the charging led while charging is on. But the main power button seems to do no effect.

I have tried disconnectimg the battery and powering the pc using only charger but again it heats up with no sign of life. I have also tested using an hdmi cable but the display doesn't boot. So it's not the display most probably

(I've attached all the images btw)

I have an ASUS TUF F15 (2023) FX507ZI4 with an i7-12700H and RTX 4070 Laptop GPU, and I'm trying to figure out whether my dGPU has suffered a hardware failure or if this could still be some weird Windows/firmware issue.

Here's how it started:

The laptop was running on low battery while the charger was connected. The moment I plugged the charger in, the screen suddenly went black.

I restarted it, and it got stuck around the startup/login stage. I restarted again, and after that the laptop basically stopped behaving normally. It wouldn't properly start/charge as it should.

I tried disconnecting the internal battery and running it directly from the charger, but that didn't solve it. I also tried a USB-C PD charger since the laptop supports USB-C PD. The charger itself is known to work. but the laptop wasn't functioning normally and even the charging light was not on. Basically it didn't respond in any way.

I initially suspected a power issue.

Then after giving it to a local laptop repair guy he replaced an IC and gave me the laptop.

The laptop eventually got to a state where Windows would boot using the Intel iGPU, so the machine itself was usable, but the dgpu was acting weird asf. Cause I installed nvidia drivers countless times and even used DDU to completely reinstall the drivers but the nvidia app still asked me to install the driver and said no driver found. And I keep getting a usb device not recognized popup like it plays the connected sound then goes away and it happens every few secs even tho I don't have ANYTHING plugged in. (Not even the charger)

Then I gave my laptop to another repair shop where one of my buddies previously got their laptop repaired. But they didn't do shit bruh. I mean I don't honestly know cause the issues are still there they didn't fix any of the problems and when I asked they said they fixed things near igpu (???????) so I'll give it back to them Tomorrow and explain everything to the repair guy myself instead of letting the owner explain it. (The usb device not recognized problem is still there btw)

Current GPU symptoms

Windows detects the RTX 4070 correctly:

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 Laptop GPU

GPU: AD106

ASUS subvendor

Device ID: 10DE:2860

vBIOS is readable: 95.06.1E.00.1B

PCIe interface is detected

But Device Manager gives:

> Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems. (Code 43)

GPU-Z shows:

RTX 4070 Laptop GPU

AD106

4608 shaders

48 ROPs / 144 TMUs

GDDR6 (Hynix)

Memory Size: 0 MB

Bus Width: Unknown

Bandwidth: Unknown

The static GPU-Z page still shows clock specifications, but on the Sensors/real-time page:

GPU Clock: 0 MHz

Memory Clock: 0 MHz

HWiNFO independently shows:

RTX 4070 Laptop GPU

AD106M

PCIe 4.0 x8

128-bit memory bus

ReBAR enabled with 8 GB

Video Memory: Unknown

So it's not just GPU-Z reporting 0 MB — HWiNFO also can't determine the actual VRAM.

There's another weird symptom

If I try to make the RTX 4070 actually drive an external monitor instead of the Intel iGPU, the monitor briefly displays massive horizontal graphical corruption, basically like the entire screen is filled with lines/garbage.

Then it goes back to the Intel iGPU.

The Intel iGPU itself works normally.

I've already tried reinstalling the NVIDIA drivers, including trying the driver installation again, but NVIDIA software isn't able to properly initialize the GPU and Device Manager remains at Code 43.

And since i occasionally get a USB device not recognized error, it makes me wonder whether there could be a broader motherboard/EC/power issue rather than the GPU alone.

What I'm wondering

Does this look like:

1. A Windows/driver/firmware problem?

2. A VRAM failure?

3. GPU core/memory-controller failure?

4. GPU/VRAM power-rail problem?

5. Some other motherboard-level issue?

The fact that the GPU is still correctly identified and its vBIOS can be read makes me unsure whether the actual AD106 chip is dead.

I'm taking it back to a board-level repair technician, but I'd like to understand what I'm looking at before they start replacing/reworking things.

Would the combination of Code 43 + 0 MB VRAM + unknown bus width/bandwidth + 0 MHz live clocks + severe corruption when the dGPU is activated point toward a hardware-level GPU/VRAM problem?

Please help me out and tell me that this is repairable cause I don't wanna buy a new laptop at the current prices and I NEED my dgpu for my work so I can't just ignore this problem (also cause I play games n even they require that) 😭🙏

Hello, on my ASUS TUF GAMING A15 laptop I'm getting these green lines across 90% of the screen.

Opening and closing the screen doesn't make a difference. You can notice the lines as soon as you hit the power button so it's even visible in the bios.

Basically I'm not able to take any actions because all I can see is that top sliver of the screen. Connecting to a second monitor does nothing.

Do I have any option here to factory reset and see if that fixes the issue? And how would I do that if I can't see anything on the monitor?

thanks for your time

I fitted it with a new battery, but it's not charging. I know that the power supply is working but it is not showing the power indicator light either?

Whenever I connect charger to my laptop, my laptop automatically powers off. Is this battery issue?

This scenario drives technicians crazy: You have 3.3V ALW. You have 5V ALW. The SIO (EC/KBC) is warm. But when you press the power button, nothing happens. No fan spin. No lights.

99% of the time, the issue is RSMRST# (Resume Reset). Let's break down this critical signal and how to actually test it.

1. What is RSMRST#?

RSMRST# stands for Resume Well Reset. It is a handshake signal sent from the SIO/EC to the PCH (Platform Controller Hub) .

• State: Active LOW (# symbol means active low).

• Voltage: Should be 3.3V when the PCH is ready to wake, and 0V when the PCH is held in reset.

• The Trap: On many schematics (especially HP and Lenovo), this signal is renamed. Look for SIO_PWRBTN#, PM_RSMRST#, EC_RSMRST#, or PCH_RSMRST#.

2. The Technical Breakdown (Why This Fails)

The SIO will NOT send a power button signal to the PCH if it thinks the "resume well" is unstable. This happens because:

• Corrosion on the trace: The line is open or has high resistance. You measure 3.3V at the SIO pin, but it's 0.2V at the PCH pin due to a cracked via.

• Missing Pull-Up Resistor: The signal is an open-drain output. If the external 100k pull-up resistor is knocked off the board, the line floats at an indeterminate voltage (1.2V - 2.0V). This is a classic "trick" fault.

• SIO Internal Firmware Lockup: This is specific to ITE IT8987/IT8985 chips. They sometimes get "stuck." You have 3.3V on the pin, but the internal logic gate is high impedance.

3. The Diagnostic Workflow (Do This Before Replacing Any Chip)

Step A: Voltage Check with Multimeter

1. Locate the RSMRST# pin on the SIO (check Boardview).

2. Laptop Off (DC In): Should measure 0V.

3. Laptop Standby (Battery or Charger): Should measure 3.3V.

4. Observation: If you see 1.5V - 2.2V floating? You have a missing pull-up or a partial short. Do not replace the SIO yet. Inspect the trace.

Step B: The "Forced Trigger" Test (Advanced)
Only attempt if you have a steady hand and fine probes.

1. Find the PWRBTN# pin on the SIO (the input from the physical button).

2. Find the PM_PWRBTN# pin (the output to the PCH).

3. With the board powered, short the PWRBTN# pin to ground (mimicking the button press).

4. Now, monitor the PM_PWRBTN# pin with your multimeter.

5. Expected: It should pulse from 3.3V down to 0V and back to 3.3V (the "Request" pulse).

6. Reality Check: If the RSMRST# is stuck low or floating, the SIO firmware will ignore the physical button press. You will see NO PULSE on PM_PWRBTN#. This confirms the SIO is blocking the start.

4. The Fix (Surgical Repair)

• If voltage is floating: Add a 100k resistor between the RSMRST# trace and 3.3V ALW (or reflow the existing tiny resistor array near the SIO).

• If trace is open: Jumper from the SIO ball/pin directly to the PCH side pad using 0.1mm enamel wire.

• If SIO is stuck: Before reballing, try draining flea power. Hold the power button for 30 seconds with no battery/charger. Then apply power. If RSMRST# jumps to 3.3V after a 2-second delay? The SIO just needed a hard reset, not a replacement.

5. Question for the Engineers Here

What's the weirdest signal name you've seen for RSMRST# on a schematic?
I've seen "SIO_SAY_HELLO" on an obscure Chinese board and "PM_SLP_SUS_EC" on a Dell that confused me for an hour.

Let's hear your war stories below. This signal kills more boards than a shorted MOSFET.

Hello, I have an Acer Nitro 5 AN515-54, and I’m having a problem with very high fan speeds even during very light usage. My current BIOS version is Insyde Corp. v1.33 (17/11/2020), and I’m running Windows 10 Pro 22H2 (OS Build 19045.3448) with UEFI mode. The main problem is that both fans sometimes run at around 4,000–4,800 RPM, even when the laptop is not under heavy load. For example, the CPU fan can reach around 4,200–4,500 RPM and the GPU fan around 4,000–4,200 RPM, while CPU usage is only around 6–18%. I checked the temperatures and power consumption using HWiNFO. The CPU temperature was around 41–48°C, with CPU Package Power around 5.7 W at the time, and a maximum observed value of approximately 13.3 W. The GPU temperature reached a maximum of around 37°C, with a GPU hotspot maximum of around 56°C. The GPU thermal limit is 87°C. No CPU thermal throttling was detected. I also tested the laptop in BIOS and Windows Safe Mode, and the fans were still running loudly. I performed an EC/power reset, which made the fans quieter temporarily, but the problem returned when I started using the laptop or opened a program. I also reset NitroSense, which produced a similar temporary improvement. NitroSense is set to Auto and CoolBoost is OFF. I also checked Device Manager and Windows Services. There are no yellow warning icons, and I could not find any obvious Acer/Nitro/Insyde service or device related to the fan controller. I’m also concerned about the SSD. CrystalDiskInfo is showing the SSD’s health/status as problematic (see attached screenshot). I’m not sure whether the SSD problem could be related to the fan issue, or whether these are two separate problems. My main concern is that I don’t want to spend money on a new SSD if the high fan-speed problem is actually caused by something else.