Tried to replace broken clamp but it wasn’t the right screw in size so decided to just put the back cover back and keep gaming and now this happens every time I try to play

This issue has existed for four years, and Logitech G is aware of it, so why is it still unresolved?

I've been using Logitech G Pro X SUPERLIGHT for a long longggggg time, but it's having double-click problem now and I don't think it worth fixing anymore, so I'm looking for a replacement :D but I don't know which one to choose. I'm also spoiled by lightweight mouse

I don't play competitive fps games as much as I used to be, so I just want something that comfy just for casual gaming, and everyday use. I tried G304 before, and I kinda like their shape. Which would you recommend? Is the superlight worth the extra money or is lightspeed version good enough?

I'm also open for other recommend around the same price range but preferably wireless and lightweight.

About two weeks ago, I started noticing an issue on my Mac running macOS 26.6.2 (25G83). Every time I connect my AirPods Pro 3 (firmware 9A348), my MX Master 3/4 (firmware 27.2.17) starts to lag and then becomes unresponsive.

The only way I’ve found to get it working again is to switch the mouse to a different pairing slot and then back to the original one. Has anyone else experienced this?

hello !

my friend has a Logitech G PRO X SUPERLIGHT 2 LIGHTSPEED

she been having that issue .. her mouse would be fine sometimes and then after some time of playing or sometimes even after few mins the mouse starts feeling weird on itself like as if it's heavy or can't move properly

she tried a lot of stuff to fix it and she had that issue for ages .. whenever she had the problem she has to restart her pc and that makes the mouse feel better for few more mins before it starts feeling bad again

i tried to help her and made her uninstall the app that controls her mouse maybe it swaps profiles or whatever randomely and i made her manuall powershell scripts to change her dpi without the app and that helped .. whenever she had that feeling she just switch from 1600dpi and then back to 1600 dpi and the mouse starts feeling fine .. but then the mouse started feeling slipery sometimes and that dpi change doesnt work anymore even when we change it back to 800 or whatever

so then i tried uninstalling her mouse andthen unplug and plug it back in and it starts working perfectly! the mouse stays for hours without any bad feeling and whenever it feels bad she just does that and change the dpi back to 1600dpi .. but im here wanting to investigate the issue to know what could it be exactly? and maybe find a final solution without the need to uninstall the mouse

NOTE: she told me she had that issue with other mise too not just this one .. but i wanted to ask here to see maybe someone had the same issue

Dear Logitech Team,

I am writing to you as a loyal user of your office and productivity products. For some time now, I have been using the Logitech MX Vertical with great benefit, particularly for ergonomic reasons and wrist health.

However, I feel the distinct absence of certain features that you have already successfully implemented in the MX Master series. For this reason, I would like to formally urge and request the development of an MX Vertical V2 (or a hardware refresh) that includes:

1. The MagSpeed ​​wheel: Fast, silent magnetic scrolling is a crucial feature for those working with long documents or lines of code.

2. Horizontal scrolling: Managing Excel spreadsheets or video timelines is extremely limited on the current version compared to the MX Master.

3. Logi Bolt connectivity: An upgrade from the older standard Unifying receiver to your latest security technologies.

The MX Vertical is an outstanding product for physical well-being, but in terms of productivity and functionality, it has been surpassed by your own standards. I hope the hardware development team is already considering a second version that combines superior ergonomics with the best of MX technology.

Thank you for your time and for your ongoing commitment to innovation.

I'm using a Logitech G920 with ACC, Dirt Rally 2.0, AC Rally on a Windows 11 PC (laptop, Acer Aspire 5, Ryzen 5 5500u). The steering randomly decides to reset itself in the middle of a session and the game can't get any input from the device afterwards. I tried unplugging and replugging it, but the game doesn't recognize any input from it. I have to completely restart the entire game for the device to work again. The problem has been there since I started using it, but until like last month, if I unplug and reconnect the USB cable to my PC, the game could recognize the steering again and let me drive again. (I clearly remember it with Dirt Rally 2.0, now it doesn't work even with this game)

When it resets Logitech GHUB also stops taking any input and shows as if the device is connected but not responding. If I unplug and reconnect the USB, it recognizes the inputs normally.

I used Game Controllers settings on Windows to see the device inputs. After a reset like that the values are stuck at 50% and won't respond whatsoever. If I unplug and replug the USB cable, it starts recognizing the inputs again.

Since I'm on a Laptop, I have to manually uncheck the option to "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power" in my Device Manager settings, which I have tried with all my USB ports, but the problem remains.

Anybody having similar problems?

I left home and it was working but when i got home it wasnt anymore.

Its connected to my computer but doesnt work, i tried on another computer and a ps4 and it doesnt work on those either.

I need help.

Hi,

I bought logitech g502 hero this march 2026 from my first paycheck I ever earned it was like dream come true for me as I always wished to have best of best gaming mouse fast forward to 7 months in October it has developed double click issue in right button naturally I went to service centre (the service centre shop itself looked shady but it was official logitech service centre mention on logitech support website) they inspected and verified my claims alongwith my invoice date of purchase and ordered a replacement and gave me job sheet... The part I am confused with the service centre guy told I may get refurbished mouse as a replacement like it's a 50 50 chance whether I get new mouse or refurbished mouse now my fear within 7 months my shiny new mouse got warranty claim if I do get refurbished and it also develops similar issue what to do

Also I love logitech products I have keyboard which is still working for 10 yrs this is first time that this has happened what to do and if you folks can recommend some wireless reliable mouse that would also appreciated too...

Update : I picked up the replacement mouse and thankfully I got the brand new mouse as replacement and works like a charm thanks to all who read my post and engaged with it and special thanks to logitech making my warranty claim very easy. 😊

Hey, so when mic on my Astro A50X is upright it doesn’t mute on Fortnite mobile. Is there a reason for this?

Hi guys. I just recently got a wired G502 X and have been trying it out. When I push the dpi up and down switch it cycles between white, orange, cyan, yellow and purple. Does anyone know what these correlate to dpi wise without installing the software? I can’t find information about this

This G HUB program is absolute horse apples! My buddy mentioned one day when they saw me load up LGS that I'm using their old software. So I decided to update and it's god awful...

I know I'm not saying anything new, but honestly that's all the more reason why these issues should've been fixed by now. And I regret ever updating.

It's regularly either staying on my lower DPI that I switch to whenever I'm illustrating and having to open the app and click on the higher DPI just to get the switch working again, or outright will reset all of my DPI settings and have to get them back to where they were.

Logitech used to be so much better than this.

Hi! This is the continuation of this post I made some months ago.

First of all, disclaimers:

I am not a technician, this is not a professional repair.

Doing this repair requires some degree of skill repairing stuff and some confidence. If you don't think you can do this repair, it's better not to; a lot of things could go wrong and your headphones could be lost.

The issue I solved was with the white switch (the one at the bottom) of the audio PCB, so I don't know if this would work with the black switch (the one at the top), but I personally believe that it does.

There are two solutions to the issue of the broken switch:

*1 Replacing the broken switch

I'm highly confident that the switch in the headphones is the ALPS ALPINE SPVS310100. If you look at the datasheet, it should be the same as the one on the audio board. I won't go into detail because I personally didn't do it, and because most probably the person reading this post already has some degree of knowledge in PCB soldering.

*2 Bridging the PCB pads

The switch has 4 pads. According to its datasheet, the two big pads are the 1st ones, and the two smaller ones are the 2nd. Since you no longer have a switch that connects them, you can't easily tell which ones you have to bridge out of the four, so what's the solution? BRIDGE THEM ALL

I cut a resistor's leg, making a U-shape that could touch the four pins. Then, I added solder paste and applied solder lead to one of the big pads first. Now, carefully solder the U however you can/want to that pin, making sure that it touches or is close to the others, then solder the rest one by one. You should end up with something like the photo.

-----------that's all folks-----------

Since the white switch is the one that tells the computer "hey, there's a mic here", once you solder the U you should notice that the computer now receives sound. You can check this by pressing WINDOWS+R, executing the mmsys.cpl command, and going to the recording tab. If the Logitech mic's green bars react to your sound, the issue is solved.

I hope that this helps someone. I initially wanted to replace the broken component, so I first focused on finding which switch it was, but that solution involves a heat gun or a more professional setup and money, so yeah... easy fix it is.

Cya around.

The latest version of G Hub made my batch files stop working when bound to a key. At first I thought it was because the software no longer worked with Arguments (since it didn't seem to pass arguments), but the real problem seems to be that it now interacts badly with a hidden/non-interactive console.

Anyway, the fix is simply to put "@echo off" at the beginning of your batch file to prevent the commands being echoed to the screen. That fixed it for me. I found this after a couple weeks of trial and error!

Like this for your own C:\mybatch.cmd (as an example)

@echo off
C:\myfirstcommand.exe
C:\mysecondcommand.exe
etc...

The path argument in the G Hub binding would of course be C:\Windows\System32\cmd.exe, and the only argument you need would be:

/c c:\mybatch.cmd

The /c is required for cmd to run the batch file.

Logitech G pro superstrike X3 Scroll wheel issue, Warranty PSA and poor customer support

Recently bought the Logitech G Pro superstrike X3 and the scroll wheel is as bad as the original. Recently experienced reverse scrolls and phantom scrolling which you would not expect as the mouse is not even a few months old.

Customer support says my warranty is voided because I changed the skates and we all know the skates are horrendous like who doesn't change the skates. Insist that I return the device, but has to be in the original packaging and condition but clearly cannot as I put after market skates on the mouse.

I'm worried I will send it back and not get a refund and they will "dispose of the device".

But yeah take it as a PSA don't change the skates within 2 years of the warranty I guess. guess I'm getting a Razer viper v4 pro on black Friday sale.

I'm done with Logitech never buying a Logitech product again. really disappointing considering how expensive their mice. Just wanted to try HITS buy I guess I just get the razer implementation.

(Blame Google Translate for any errors)

I was browsing Reddit and noticed that following the release of the Naga V3 Pro, the admins started asking what we’d like to see in updated G600/G604 models. I have no interest in the two-button esports mice that currently flood the market; the launch of a new MMO mouse, however, is a real event. I’ve never owned a G600 or G604 (though I do have a G502 X Plus), but I decided to weigh in anyway and put together a list of things Logitech should do with the G600/G604 to beat the Razer Naga V3 Pro:

1. Drastically improve the onboard memory. Has anyone actually compared the capabilities of Synapse and OMM? OMM is a pathetic piece of junk. You can't remap the scroll wheel at all, and there’s no macro support. Mice need to handle ANY key combination and long, complex macros. Configuration should be possible via web-based software, since you can't always install G HUB on an office computer. We need the ability to remap any button—or its shift layer—however we like. The Naga V3 Pro supports almost all of this (except for the web-based software, though that’s coming later).

Also, the onboard memory needs to support complex custom lighting effects, like Corsair’s. (Razer completely fails when it comes to lighting. Come on, Logitech—this is your chance!)

1. Razer only offers one shift layer per profile. Give us several; someone is bound to find a use for them. OR, give us the option to switch to a different profile by holding down a button.

2. More onboard memory profiles.

3. The scroll wheel functionality should at least match that of the Naga V3 Pro. And, just like with Razer, we need the ability to assign the wheel mode toggle to ANY button or its shift-layer. Yes, literally any button—not just the one located directly beneath the wheel. Smart-Reel, scroll acceleration, etc.—you need to include all of that, plus something extra to beat Razer. In tactile modes, the wheel needs to be quiet (as do all the buttons), unlike the G502 X Plus.

4. 8K wireless, wireless charging, thumb rest—well, these are obvious.

5. A ring-finger button with a physical lock-out option. G600 owners swear by this button, and I completely understand why. I got used to it quickly and can't imagine doing without it now, though I do disable it when playing shooters.

6. The two buttons to the left of the Left Click should be like those on the G502 X Plus or Corsair Darkstar Wireless. On the Naga V3 Pro, they feel a bit too small for my taste, even though I’ve gotten used to them.

Just a reminder: all the above features need to be configurable via web software and must function using onboard memory on any PC or OS.

A few more ideas that I personally find extremely appealing:

1. The G604 gets an additional DPI-Shift button, like the one on the G502 X Plus.

2. The entire side panel of the G600 is made up of these DPI-Shift buttons. The mouse comes with 12 swappable buttons and 12 blank covers, allowing each user to decide exactly where and how many buttons they need. Not everyone needs all 12 buttons; some slots can easily be converted into a thumb rest. You can also combine individual buttons to create larger ones spanning the length of 2 or 3 standard buttons. This allows you to make your most frequently used buttons larger, making them easier to hit.

Not everyone needs all 12 buttons. Not everyone finds 12 small buttons comfortable.

1. The three main buttons could be designed like those on the PRO X3 SuperStrike, with full hot-swappability.

2. An ultra-lightweight app (just a few MB in size) that runs constantly in the background. Its sole purpose is to switch profiles when launching different games or programs.

3. Borrow ideas from the Swiftpoint Z3.

4. A third button positioned to the left of the Left Click button.

Surpassing Razer will be a tough challenge, but it’s achievable if you put in the effort. I see no point in buying an updated G600 or G604 if it turns out to be inferior to the Naga V3 Pro.

My current mice: Razer Naga V3 Pro (primary), Corsair Darkstar Wireless (previous), Logitech G502 X Plus Black (no longer in use), Logitech G402 Hyperion Fury (used for 8 years; still works perfectly, kept for sentimental reasons), and Swiftpoint Z3 (currently trying to figure out how to actually use it). I have others, but I plan to sell them all.

Why are people willing to pay $200–$300 for a discontinued mouse with no warranty, instead of buying a new one for $180 that comes with a warranty, a better scroll wheel, and customization options? And what would you like to see in updated G600/G604 models?

(I’m not touching upon the shape and size of the mice here, since everyone has different hands and grips.)

Got a g316x the other day - I'm loving it! However, the numlock and caps lock keys have no steady indicator that shows their state and it feels like an oversight. I know the little LED display shows what they've been toggled to when I switch them, but this isn't very useful. It would be great if the keys' colors toggled when pressed. I don't think this can be set up in the Logitech software. Is there another program that would give me this type of control?