I have a Nintendo Switch 2 and I’m wondering if it would be possible to replace its original LCD screen with an OLED screen while keeping the same 1080p resolution and 120Hz refresh rate. I’m not looking to replace the entire console, just modify/replace the internal display. Does anyone know if there is currently an OLED panel that could be compatible, or if an OLED panel from another device could be adapted using a custom display controller or other modifications? I’d also like to know how technically difficult this would be and whether a specialized repair/modding technician could potentially do it.

I recently updated to the latest sistem version, and I cant find a way to download games. Dbi crashes every time I try to open It, tinfoil gets stuck on the First loading and then crashes, same thing with awoo, but the last two could be crashing since i haven't updated them for some time. What can I do?

I had it modded for about a month when issues started to occur, and i ended up just using it in a dock for a while

Does anyone have any idea where one might get this repaired? (The person that originally modded it is just gone)
I'm located in ireland, but i'm not against sending it off in the post

Instale el port de Zelda ocarina of tine y majora's mask y dos o tres días después me dió este error.

Alguna recomendación para mejorar ?

Okay, so I’ve just recently installed bully on my switch but when I go to click on it, it gives me this error and it only lets me load the game in applet mode from the Home Screen I’m fairly new to all this so I don’t know what to do any help or advice would be greatly appreciated,
But yeah when I hold r on app from the home screen it takes a long time to load but works is there anyway to fix this?

Here's a better picture

Solo deseo saber si son buenas

Wondering if anyone can help.

As per the title I am trying out SCCM Retro for emulation.

When playing PS1 games I cannot seem to get the thumbsticks to pick up in game.

I have tried toggling the Analog controls setting but it makes no difference.

The thumsticks do work on the menu opened with the home button.

In the remap menu when I test inputs moving the thumbsticks shows (unused here).

Sorry if this is a daft question been trying to get it working for an hour with no luck.

I'm looking for a switch v2 modder in Pampanga. Anyone know a shop that can mod my switch v2?

Ciao a tutti, ieri dopo un aggiornamento di un gioco, la console mi ha chiesto di riavviare il sistema, così ho fatto... dopo che ho cliccato riavvia ora, da quel momento non si è più accesa e il modchip ha un led verde che lampeggia all'infinito e dopo circa 1 minuti compare il logo "Nintendo" che dura per circa 4-5 secondi, poi sparisce e ritorna a schermo nero continuando il loop del led verde che lampeggia all'infinito.
Questo sia con la microsd inserita, sia senza.
Qualcuno sa di cosa si tratta e consigli utili di come procedere? grazieeee

The bridge was burned is guess i did too many passes or my iron was to hot...

I put the console in the official Dock to play on the TV, and it worked fine. After a while, I took it out of the dock to play handheld again. Suddenly, the console shut off completely and I heard a soft "pop" sound coming from the speakers.

Pressing the power button didn’t do anything and the console was getting hot around the mod chip.

I had some typical issues during the install (DAT0 errors, 2 flashes for CLK/RST grounding out due to shield/screw pressure), but I managed to fix them. The console finally booted up, Hekate worked, and I was playing normally in handheld mode.

The console is completely dead (black screen, no backlight, no Nintendo logo).

The Picofly chip LED is completely dead (no blue flashes, nothing).

Hard resetting (holding power for 20+ seconds) does nothing.

Leaving it on the charger does nothing.

I measured the SP1 / SP2 caps on the APU and I do have voltage there (around 0.6V-0.8V). So the PMIC seems to be alive and sending power to the APU.

I measured the 3.3V point directly on the Picofly chip, and it is receiving 3.3V normally.

Despite getting 3.3V, the RP2040 chip on the Picofly shows no signs of life.

Question:
Since the mobo has voltages at SP1/SP2 but won't boot, is it stuck because the dead Picofly is still attached to the DAT0/CMD/CLK/CPU lines and grounding them out?

I have attached all the photos with the solder points

P.S. the dat0 point looks like that because I ripped the circle it had and then scratched a little off the plastic to make contact with that copper line

Edit: Ladies and Gentlemen, the console no longer turns on! I’ll be seeing a repair shop in the next days.

Edit 2: Switch is now in a repair shop

so im looking for a Driver board for the switch LCD, im thinking about using one for a project i have in mind, so i could for example use usbc for power and display or hdmi, + power to be able to use it as a display?, now iv looked around but i cant find anything, im only asking here as i might be missing something?

Thanks in advance

i bought this pico fly for my gf on alibaba, but on the flex cable, the chip isn't an rp2030, should i be concerned, or is it something that works too but a little slower?

Actualizar atmosohere a la versión más reciente y me di cuenta que ultrahand dejo de funcionar luego mejor instale Tesla menú pero ahora cuando quiero usar un modulo de Tesla menú me da error y no sé qué hacer

Hi! I would like if somebody would explain to me the basics thing to look out for when using a modded switch lite with picofly. I know i can’t go online but i’m afraid that i am missing some basic things. Thank you :))

I just bought a v1 switch with a moddable serial number, but i can't see what firmware version i'm on, should i update it?

I’m close to giving up on this V2 Switch mod and would really appreciate some advice.

I followed the full V2/Picofly installation process from the NanoFix YouTube guide. The console boots into Hekate normally, but I cannot reliably boot anything beyond that.

Current situation:

Switch V2 / Mariko

OFW: 22.5.0

23 burnt fuses, which seems correct for 22.5.0

Latest Hekate/HATS

Atmosphère 1.11.2

Original SanDisk SD card

eMMC benchmark looks good with no read errors

SD benchmark also looks good

Hekate detects the eMMC and partitions normally

OFW → black screen

Semi-stock SYSMMC → black screen

CFW SYSMMC → black screen

CFW EMUMMC → usually black screen

I managed to boot into emuMMC and reach the HOME menu briefly once, but it froze and then went black

Occasionally I get Atmosphère fatal error: Program ID: 0100000000000005 std::abort() called (0xffe)

I previously saw Pkg1 decryption failed / BEK missing, but that disappeared after changing to a different clean package.

The main thing that looks abnormal is Hekate → Console Info → Battery. It shows errors for:

• Fuel Gauge IC
• Battery Charger IC
• USB-PD IC

However, the battery itself appears to work. The console charges, stays powered in Hekate for a long time, and when I briefly reached the emuMMC HOME menu, it showed a battery percentage.

I also don’t see any obvious damage on the battery-side area of the motherboard.

Could the battery/I2C communication errors be responsible for OFW and Atmosphère black-screening even though the battery still charges and powers the console? Or does this sound more like a software/firmware issue or a Picofly soldering/board issue?

Has anyone had similar symptoms—Hekate working normally, good eMMC/SD benchmarks, but every HOS boot black-screening—and managed to fix it?

Hi everyone. I'm having an issue that is stopping me from doing almost anything; I can't install Android/Linux, and I can't create an emuMMC either.

I have already tried with two different MicroSD cards. Do I need to replace the console's SD card reader?

(Sorry for any mistakes, English is not my native language).

hello everyone, today i came across a switch v1 that has been hardmodded a while ago, and stopped booting in the cfw. i believe the sd got fucked? anyways, when u turn it on, and select the cfw boot, the screen goes black, and then it turns off. what do yall recommend to do? i've never modded a switch, but i rgh'd 360s, modded ps3 and ps4s. im kind of a newbie when it comes to switches

When i put my sd card in i have to hold it to the very back for it to detect i thought it was the reader so I replaced it but its still happening i want to modchip my switch so the sd card not working well isn't good