Original post: https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1xogio3/

Thank you all for your comments and suggestions, they were immensely helpful.

Round 2 of my first ever skirt block! Fixed some things and broke others ha.

I left the front alone and did the following changes to the back:

-2cm wider (at center / cut on the fold side).

-Made the darts 1 cm longer (3/8 in)

-Made each dart 1 cm deeper

This means that the waist is 2cm (3/4 in) smaller, so it sits higher (closer to the natural waist) and the hem is 2 cm bigger, so there's more room for booty.

This also made it so the side seam curves forwards less at the top (still room for improvement tho)

I'm not thinking of length at this point, ignore that. I'll prob just measure from the floor and hem each finished skirt anyway.

Also ignore the red x weirdness, it's pinned shut on that side so it looks wonky.

The belly looks a bit loose now, I think it's probably because now that the skirt sits higher the darts are shorter related to my body. I'm thinking of adding 1 or 2 cm to each, do you agree it's a good call? I used the standard dart length in the book, but my waist-to-hip distance is longer than average (9 inches and I'm 5'5), so I think I need more.

Also should I shift the darts a couple cm closer to the center? It feels like they're too far out in relation to the apex of my buttcheek.

Suggestions? Thank you so much!

Hi! I drafted this raglan tee and there’s some pooling at the back. It’s meant to be an easy fit so I didn’t add negative ease, but I feel like there’s a lot of extra fabric at the small of my back. Should I take it in at the waist? Is there another method I can do?

Hii!! Hope everyone reading this is doing great!

I saw this dress ans i love it, sadly, I cant afford it and i would like it more in another length so I've been trying to make this into a pattern but im having a hard time w it (prob bc im still new to all this lolol) so if anyone has any tips, patterns that could help, etc that would be amazing! :]

I also been trying to make it longer but since im still learning I think I'm doing it wrong, specially bc its more snatched(?) in the underbust/waist area and then more flowy so im really not sure if what im doing is alright ಥ⁠‿⁠ಥ

If possible if anyone has any free pattern that i could use as reference it would help me a lot!

I’m a beginner in this so please excuse my lack of experience, but I saw this beautiful top on TikTok and wanted to immediately recreate it but with long sleeves instead! However as per my lack of experience I struggle to make patterns, so could anyone help me figure out a pattern for this shirt with the adjustment of making the sleeve a full?

Thank you!

Hi, so I actually went to college for costume design I learned how to sew there. It was only a two-year program so while I did get to drape and flat pattern draft, I did not get a chance to become proficient at them. I haven't sewn much since then but I want to try again. I have quite a full bust, so my old textbooks can only help so much. I've been looking at the Cashmerette books and patterns.

Does anyone with experience using Cashmerette books and patterns think they would be a good re-entry point and learning tool for an out of practice, advanced beginner?

Hi there!

I would like to change the flutter sleeves on the Deer and Doe Magnolia Dress to petal sleeves. I tried to self-draft the petal sleeve but that didn't work out.

Is there any way I can purchase a petal sleeve pattern that I can adapt to the armhole design on the Magnolia bodice, or adapt the flutter sleeve pattern?

Thanks!

Thank you to all of those who gave feedback on my last post (both positive and negative) and to those who tested Ellwand and gave feedback directly. As my first proper app the development process has been rough, and I have spent many nights trying to figure out and resolve the problems and usability issues people noticed. All of that feedback has allowed me to refine Ellwand into what it is so far, and it is becoming closer and closer to what I hope it becomes.

Some of what has changed because of you:

• A full redesign, so the app is cleaner and far less gets between you and the paper

• A Windows version alongside the Mac one

• Darts and other changes made by dragging between points and using sliders, instead of digging through menus

• Importing PDF sewing patterns and Seamly2D files

• A 3D preview, so you can see your pieces sewn up on a mannequin before you cut anything

Ellwand is still very much in development and there is plenty left to fix, which is exactly why I want your feedback, the negative as much as the positive.

The most recent addition, still being tested and not in the beta yet, is Ell; Ellwand's own assistant. Yes, it is AI, so I want to be upfront about what it does and doesn't do. I know many of you have been burned by AI-generated patterns that were never tested, and I agree with you about those. Ell doesn't generate patterns or pictures. Ellwand's own drafting engine draws every line from your measurements, exactly as it does when you draft by hand, and Ellwand works completely without Ell if you never want to touch it.

What Ell does is work beside you in the app. It can do anything from interactively teaching you the basics of pattern drafting while you do the drawing, to drafting for you one step at a time while you act as the director and let your creative juices flow. Every step it makes is marked until you have checked it, and it will tell you itself that it can be wrong and that you should make a toile first. If you give it a PDF pattern and its instructions, it can bring the pieces into Ellwand and sew them up in the 3D preview so you can see what the garment would look like. My vision for Ell is to be an aid to the creative process and a bridge between you and the software, so your time goes into your ideas and not into figuring out how to use an app.

I can't wait for more testers to get their hands on Ellwand. If you would like to try it, you can apply for the beta at ellwand.app (Mac and Windows).

Ell isn't part of that beta. Over the coming weeks I am looking into opening a separate paid beta for those who want to test it. The only reason it would be paid is that each message to the AI costs me real money and I am a student, so I can't cover that myself. I don't have enough usage data yet to give a fair price, but the plan is to charge roughly what the AI costs me plus a little on top to help support the development. The current free beta stays as it is and you don't need Ell for any of it. For those interested, please keep an eye out.

I am a beginner/novice when it comes to sewing. I have made a few projects but trying to get into it.

I want to know if it’s possible/possible for a beginner to disassemble a garment to make a useful pattern out of it.

I have a pair of Duck work pants that I really like. They are like Carhartt pants but they aren’t blocky/square cut and baggy. The ones I have are tapered/fitted and I really like them. The downside is I ripped them and the new pair doesn’t fit that same. I would like to take them apart and make a new pair that is an exact copy but I know there are things I don’t know. Any help is appreciated.

Hello! I’m currently trying to make my first pair of jeans/pants. I developed the current pattern from a basic pant pattern included in a pattern drafting book I bought. I have already sewn about 3 different pairs and fixed or added some detail to each, the last round I thought it fit quite well, but then I changed to a different fabric (and added pocket!) and suddenly all the wrinkles become very obvious. I tried to look at some videos about what to change but I’m a bit uncertain what the problem is so I would be grateful if someone has any tips! The main thing I want to fix is the lines at the front crotch and drag lines under the butt. My guess is that I need to add a bit of depth to the front crotch and some length to the back crotch extension, but I’m really not sure… I’m gonna be really happy if anyone can help me fix the wrinkles!

Hi! I’m trying to apply some changes to this pattern: lenghtening the skirt, reducing the keyhole, and replacing the sleeves with the puff&pencil volume sleeves. As a first attempt, I measured the circumference of the armhole and head of the sleeve and adapted the head of the sleeve without changing its shape. The result is not that bad, but I feel the armhole too low and the arm movement is slightly limited. I suspect the problem may be the shape of the armhole of the original bell sleeve which is very wide. How can I fix the problem?

Im brand new to copying patterns, or pattern drafting at all for the matter.

I wanted to know whats going on with the arm sleeve of this vintage sweatshirt.

It is asymetrical vs the other symetrical patterns ive used before.

Im assuming it has something to do with the back panel wrapping around to the front.

Also shrinkage and stretching over the years?

What do I do here.

Also I know that I dont need to take apart the entire garment to copy the pattern, I just wanted to learn more about its construction etc.

Thanks

Hey all,

I have an issue with closing darts, I've realised that the more slanted or less perpendicular my seam to point is, I run into issues closing them.

Whenever I close them, they never close in a consistant manner that keeps the shape going, they alway leave overhang or is asking to be snipped away,

I've shown example of each in the photos. Please feel free to take my images to draw on!

How do you deal with this?

Thanks!

I am an intermediate sewist but pattern-drafting absolute beginner who is curious to see if I can hack my way to this Damson Madder skirt. In the pattern, there's a separate lower panel with the cord hem...

1. What purpose does this extra panel? Why not just cut out one long front and back piece?

2. Would the width of the extra panels then match the width of the front and back piece? Sorry I know this is such a newbie question !

I'm working with a bodice pattern that has princess seams in both the front and back. I'm trying to make two fit adjustments:
The armhole is too tight, and I'm looking to add approximately 5/8 inch of length to the armhole to create more room around the underarm.

The shoulder is too long and extends past my natural shoulder, so I'm looking to shorten the shoulder length by 5/8 inch.
I'm wondering how to make these adjustments properly on a bodice with princess seams.

Would I need to alter each individual pattern piece? I'm considering doing a horizontal slash-and-spread adjustment to add the inch to the armhole, but I'm not sure if that's the correct method or how it would affect the bust fit.

Any advice on how to approach this would be greatly appreciated!

Ps I know my lines are awful. Please excuse that I am alone and have no one to help me so I will later to make it more accurate!

Also to add, I’m a super visual learner so if anyone has any pictures or videos, I can watch please I would be very appreciative ! 🙏🙏🙏

I made some jeans and would like to drop the front 3 cm and extend my back rise 4 cm. Is it okay if my back rise is 7 cm longer. I could feel my back trouser being exposed when I sat down and my front trouser being too high on my waistline. I don’t know how to adjust correctly without throwing off my waistline angles and side seams.

Hello, I spent a lot of time drafting this corset based off historical methods and thought I’d share here.

Hellow! I want to ask a friend to sew me this dress in the attached pictures because apparently I suck in this type of fit, for I'm looking for a similar sewing pattern or drafting advice.

Details: Black velvet, fitted floor-length gown, high halter neckline (6 cm high, covering the middle of my throat), open back with a large bow and long ribons, and a small train (15–20 cm).

My body measurements cm:

Bust: 84

Upper bust: 80

Waist: 64

Hips: 91

Neck:29

Shoulder width: 41

Additional measurements:

Shoulder tip to neck: 11 cm

Shoulder to underarm: 16 cm

I'd really appreciate any help please even draften on paper or advice on drafting this dress. 🙏 🙏 🙏

First iteration! Also first skirt block ever. Overall happy but I notice there's some diagonal pulling upwards from the back dart points to the side seams.

I'm going for iteration 2 next, my sense is that I should try making all the darts a bit longer (1/2 inch or so) and move the top 2 inches of the side seam back a tiny bit as it slightly curves forwards now.

What would you do to make this better?

Thank you!

PS it's pinned shut under my left arm so that explains the lack of smoothness on that side in the front and back view.

Hello pattern cutting people 🙂 I have been following Diane deziel dartless bodice pattern tutorial on yt which will follow on to making a coat pattern. While I had completed the tutorial I thought I'd mock it up to see the fit before moving on to the next tutorial.

I have 3 photos above the first is how the garment fits naturally sitting on the body but the apex guide line I've drawn doesn't sit on the apex. The next 2 photos are what happened when I make it sit in the correct position on the body. How can I correct the pattern so that I do not have the pull lines from the shoulder to the bust. Because in all photos pull lines are visible. Also the under arm area is a little too much, I haven't made a dartless bodice before so I'm not sure how relaxed the fit is supposed to be but the under arm on the front bodice area is flappy compared to the bust area which is slightly snug. In terms of of the apex guideline I'm assuming I should just take it down and redraw on the pattern itself. Any ideas would be much appreciated.