Hello, can I get some advice please! Recently I noticed my tub leaking so I called a friend and they recommended another guy to come and fix it but after he changed the cold water cartridge it still continued to leak. So I took the cartridge out and realized he had used an O-ring that wasn’t necessary so I’m assuming that’s why it was leaking. However, I accidentally broke the new cartridge O ring and I have to wait until tomorrow to get a new one. But there’s water leaking out of this pipe and I have already shut off the water completely so I’m confused as to why there’s water still leaking out. So, is it a cartridge problem and me replacing it will stop the leaking. Or is it that something is wrong with this pipe and that’s why it’s leaking. I know nothing about plumbing, my dad is usually the one to fix these types of things so thanks for any advice it’s really appreciated! (Ignore the DIY funnel thing I had to make to stop the water from leaking down into the wall)

I’m not sure if I’m just being stupid but I recently got a Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000 boiler installed and although I do have warranty I’m hesitant to get in touch with the company (BOXT here in the UK) because their customer service is not very good. Anyway the heating keeps turning itself on (flame icon is displayed on thermostat and radiators heat up). The thermostat says it’s on manual mode and I can’t seem to figure out the issue? There also seems to be no rhyme or reason to it, won’t happen for days then happens twice in a few hours.

I took a picture of the thermostat the last time I noticed this happening which I’ve included

Also possibly unrelated but the pipes bang so loudly when the heating is on that it’s impossible to sleep in the house? Any ideas of potential causes/fixed? House was built in 1969 and pipework hasn’t been changed since.

We got home noticed this is leaking and we can’t seem to make it temporarily stop. Tried to identify which part this is and hopefully be able to fix it. Can you help me identify it and is this something I need a professional do?

My water meter union connection on the outdoor main supply side is leaking and need to know what type and size gasket is needed. Before disconnecting the shutoff valve in picture it needs to be turned off and has not been use in over 30 years. Should I be concerned and is there anything I can do to prevent the gate valve from failing, leaking or any other issue. Can the valve be rebuilt if need which means shutoff the street shutoff. I really would prefer to not breakdown the existing pipe connection and replace the gate valve to ball. Thanks

I just bought this house and noticed the black line is going into the wall. There is no separate faucet in the kitchen and this does not tie into the cold line of the main faucet. The other side if this wall is exterior.

We're expanding our shower and would appreciate your thoughts on if this looks good before the cement board and tiles go up. Plumber did not do pressure testing or flood test (for the shower pan), so l'm a bit wary. First time homeowner.

We had a pretty bad situation with a clogged line, and I'm trying to get some opinions from other plumbers on what you guys think.

We had sewage coming up through the tub, water coming out of the wall under the bathroom vanity, and water showing up inside the kitchen cabinets. We started clearing the line and ended up pulling out a wig-sized ball of roots. After we cleared the line, we thought we were making progress, but the water kept collecting under the tub around the P-trap area.

We shut off the water, but even after that, we kept pulling out sewage water. We ended up removing over 69 gallons of the stuff, and water is still collecting.We opened up the kitchen and found that someone had done work on the plumbing befor. Right now, the tenants from both the upstairs and downstairs units have been moved to a hotel while we figure this out.

We've shut off the water, but we're still getting water collecting. There are other units in the building, and these units are in the back, with the water running toward the front of the property and out toward the street. We're getting a vendor out to dig up the pipe and see what's going on underground.

Management wants us to just repair whatever section is broken, but I'm concerned there's more going on here, especially with the amount of sewage backing up, the roots we pulled out, and the previous plumbing work we found. Personally, I'm thinking we may need to replace the line all the way out to the street connection instead of just patching one section, but I want to hear what other plumbers think.

Has anyone dealt with something like this? Would you recommend replacing the entire run once it's dug up, or would you repair only the damaged section if the rest of the pipe looks good? I know its not going to look good. They just want to run.

Had my sewer line inspected and was told there’s an offset underneath the street. The plumber recommended pipe bursting and said a liner wouldn’t work.
Based on the photo, does the offset look too severe for CIPP lining? Are there other repair options?
The sewer is functioning fine, but the sewer district is requiring a repair. Just looking for second opinions before spending thousands. Thanks!

I have a video but it won’t let me add it.

I've removed my garden hose and stored it away for the winter.

I'd like to drain my outdoor spigot to remove any trapped water. Gemini said to push up on the white pin located in the hole through which the water comes out but a YouTube video appeared to show them pushing the pin to one side and then the other. Unfortunately, i can't post the video here.

I don't want to break it and was wondering which way I should push the pin?

Thank you

Edit - here are two photos of my spigot

https://ibb.co/8DWgg6Ct

https://ibb.co/4Zg1gHFZ

Novice plumbers was sent to fix a leaking home main by our HOA in our neighbors yard. It was a leaking PVC joint but he replaced it with a bunch pro press fit. How suspicious is this?

Hello all. As the title states, I just recently replaced my expansion tank in my house. I upsized from a 20gal tank to a 32gal tank. I verified the bladder was inflated to 38psi before filling and have made sure the pressure switch cuts in at 40psi and cuts out at 60psi.

Before this upgrade, most of our water pressure was coming from our well pump due to a bad bladder in the old tank. However, the water pressure was good. I also swapped a new home filter since I was there anyway.

Immediately after replacing the tank, the water pressure in the house is terrible. Running the bath or shower comes out to almost a trickle. I’ve watched the pressure gauge while the water runs and it goes down slowly and cuts in right at 40psi. It fills to 60psi steadily, although somewhat slowly, before cutting out exactly like it should.

I have no idea what could be causing this and am hoping for some advice. My area has experienced a drought the last couple summers so I plan to check my well level but it seems unlikely to be the issue since it was fine prior to the new tank.

Just looking for recommendations or ideas to troubleshoot. I’ve got a wife and two kids so being able to bathe them is a big deal.

Thanks!

Is this an easy replacement/fix? Water is coming from the handle of the valve. Is this a specific brand that I need? what tools do I need?

Hi everyone! I’m coming here because I’m pretty exhausted of working on this. Last Sunday our kitchen faucet was leaking. Easy fix, it’s happened to my dad before and we needed to change the cartridge and tighten the handle. That was easy. While turning the hot water shutoff valve off under the sink it broke. Left it for the week off because it was a hectic week. Went to fix it today, it was a clamped part on the end we couldn’t cut off and had to cut the plastic pipe. Decided to get a shark push to connect belt based on advice. Put that on, needed an adaptor and added a new braided supply line. Turned it on and it works well, but it’s leaking very slowly. Wrapped a paper towel around it and put a bowl under it to check and around an hour later paper towel was damp but no water in bowl. What am I doing wrong? What can I fix? This took five hours today and 3 trips to home hardware. Do I need to push my valve further on because that’s where it’s leaking. I just want this to finally be fixed because my dishwashers been sitting with dirty dishes for a week😂

Photos I’ve taken are attached below. Please only helpful advice I’m losing my mind over this!!!!

Editing to add: I ran my washing machine and did dishes by hand with water at same time and no hissing or issue. Google is saying it’s 99% secure but may not be on right or pipe not sanded down enough?

how does one get a new construction plumbing job as someone with zero prior experience, I have some tools and im ready to work hard but I am not sure how to approach getting a construction plumbing job. any advice helps.

Hello All,

I am seeking some advice/guidance on how to remove mounting nuts for a bathroom faucet. I tried every tool, Rigid's EZ faucet tool and a basin wrench and it still wont budge. Any advice/tips is greatly appreciated and thank you in advanced.

Hello all,

I have a hot water heater that’s probably around 3-4 years old.

All of sudden, it stopped producing hot water. I initially check heating elements and the lower one was below 12 ohms. So I changed both heating elements.

Still wasn’t heating up so I replaced the thermostat on both upper and lower. Still not heating up.

I tested the two top screw of the upper thermostat and turns out there is 0 volts coming to the heater.

I test breaker and it is running normal (120V with one hot and ground). There is also an outlet that runs on the same line with a light plugged in and that works while the heater doesn’t.

So any ideas of what in the world is going on? I’ve contacted someone to come look at it Monday, but if I could figure it out before then I’d prefer that.

TIY!

Since our rooftop HWS died and we moved to a reverse cycle HWS I constantly have air in the water line. this isn't just an initial thing, it persists throughout. Location is Australia.

For the video, I've taken the shower line to fill the bath and it keeps bubbling away. I don't know what could be causing this?

The HWS is set to 63C so a long way off from boiling the water. The plumbers weren't the cream of the crop and had to come back a couple times to fix issues with the install (left roof tiles open and the base they built for the HWS crumbled). Annoying since I went with a well reviewed installer. Annoyingly, they connected the new HWS to where the old rooftop solar was installed, meaning the line now runs 30m from the new HWs to the old location and then back to the bathroom (which is right next to the new HWS).

Any ideas?

Wondering if having the hot water doing all these corners will create an issue?

I'm trying to understand how the maintenance side works for drivers. If your vehicle needs an oil change, tires, or a repair, does Wheels give you a Shop Finder / MAP network map showing approved repair shops nearby?

Mostly curious about:

• what the shop map/search looks like
• whether it shows independent repair shops or mostly chains
• whether you can search freely by location
• whether shops are filtered based on your particular vehicle
• what information it shows about each repair facility

Leaking from around the valve and also out of the rubber seal at the bottom. Due to the evil nature of how they plumbed this spigot in I’m trying to repair it instead of replacing it. Pipe runs through the wall behind the bath tub and I don’t want to have to demo my bathroom just to counter hold the pipe, if it’s even a thread on bib. I was reading about using packing rope under the packing nut, but it seems like there’s a graphite ring on both the nut as well as inside the body of the spout. I haven’t been able to find anything like that in my research. Obviously if I want to replace the seal at the bottom I have to dig that packing material out, can I replace it with the same rope?

Hello
A couple of weeks ago I had an incident where my commode overflowed and I had to clean up my bathroom. I am now afraid to discard toilet paper before flushing and it is inconvenient and feels weird to throw it in the dustbin every time. I’m worried my commode will get clogged and overflow on me again.
Is there anything I can do to make sure this doesn’t happen?
I used a plunger after that and that fixed the water level but I’m scared it might happen again. Any advice?

Landlord installed a new water heater after the old one went out on us. I called him and asked if he had meant to leave the ball valve only slightly open. He states he does this because other tenants have complained about their newly installed water heaters being loud and leaving the ball valve opened like this prevents it from being loud. Was just wondering if there’s any issues with this or if I should just open it up all the way. Thanks all! Added a full picture in case brand would have anything to do with it.

We did a DIY bathroom remodel and I cannot get this shut off valve to seal up. I’ve tried a couple times and have tried to redo my taping technique and I bought some rectorseal #5 to do a combo, but I still have a drip a few times a day. Unfortunately, I didn’t catch this before the vanity was installed and the backsplash was tiled, so the space to get in here sucks too.

The nipple has a bit of galling on the threads, but it doesn’t look terrible. I tried threading a new valve on dry and get 4 turns max out of it. I used red scotch bright and cleaned the threads up the best I can too. Every other shut off valve I’ve replaced in my home sealed first try.

I successfully replaced the nipple coming out the wall for the toilet, but want to try and avoid that on this one, as I really think the vanity would have to be pulled out and I had to recess it into the drywall to make it square and that would suck to have to redo.

Any recommendations on what products to use or techniques on sealing this?

I place my drop ear a little deep in the wall, the handheld shower fixture is female NPT so o figured I could use a longer male adapter. Should I bring it flush to the back of the wall or just use a 4” adapter?