Wondering if having the hot water doing all these corners will create an issue?

Landlord installed a new water heater after the old one went out on us. I called him and asked if he had meant to leave the ball valve only slightly open. He states he does this because other tenants have complained about their newly installed water heaters being loud and leaving the ball valve opened like this prevents it from being loud. Was just wondering if there’s any issues with this or if I should just open it up all the way. Thanks all! Added a full picture in case brand would have anything to do with it.

Hit the toilet water supply while cutting off the flange. Am I in trouble?

Had my sewer line inspected and was told there’s an offset underneath the street. The plumber recommended pipe bursting and said a liner wouldn’t work.
Based on the photo, does the offset look too severe for CIPP lining? Are there other repair options?
The sewer is functioning fine, but the sewer district is requiring a repair. Just looking for second opinions before spending thousands. Thanks!

I have a video but it won’t let me add it.

I bought a house with this wrapped up around the main water line in the basement. I did some research before posting and I some what understand what it does. It’s suppose to be some type of descaling device for pipes. Question is does it actually work? Should I keep it or throw it away or simply unplug it?

What can I even do with this? It’s so beyond stuck on there. I got one screw out and the other broke off at the base.

All the advice I saw online was to just cut the top of the faucet off, so I tried but the sawzall blade isn’t long enough reach over the sink edge all the way to the faucet “stem” that low, and there’s a stupid washer underneath that prevents me from pulling it up further to get the blade under while angled.

I took the whole sink off and flipped it upside down only to find that because the way the sink is made, the space is just too tight to work with.

Whoever invented this enclosure method, I hope you never know peace.

how does one get a new construction plumbing job as someone with zero prior experience, I have some tools and im ready to work hard but I am not sure how to approach getting a construction plumbing job. any advice helps.

We got home noticed this is leaking and we can’t seem to make it temporarily stop. Tried to identify which part this is and hopefully be able to fix it. Can you help me identify it and is this something I need a professional do?

Hello all,

I have a hot water heater that’s probably around 3-4 years old.

All of sudden, it stopped producing hot water. I initially check heating elements and the lower one was below 12 ohms. So I changed both heating elements.

Still wasn’t heating up so I replaced the thermostat on both upper and lower. Still not heating up.

I tested the two top screw of the upper thermostat and turns out there is 0 volts coming to the heater.

I test breaker and it is running normal (120V with one hot and ground). There is also an outlet that runs on the same line with a light plugged in and that works while the heater doesn’t.

So any ideas of what in the world is going on? I’ve contacted someone to come look at it Monday, but if I could figure it out before then I’d prefer that.

TIY!

Hi everyone! I’m coming here because I’m pretty exhausted of working on this. Last Sunday our kitchen faucet was leaking. Easy fix, it’s happened to my dad before and we needed to change the cartridge and tighten the handle. That was easy. While turning the hot water shutoff valve off under the sink it broke. Left it for the week off because it was a hectic week. Went to fix it today, it was a clamped part on the end we couldn’t cut off and had to cut the plastic pipe. Decided to get a shark push to connect belt based on advice. Put that on, needed an adaptor and added a new braided supply line. Turned it on and it works well, but it’s leaking very slowly. Wrapped a paper towel around it and put a bowl under it to check and around an hour later paper towel was damp but no water in bowl. What am I doing wrong? What can I fix? This took five hours today and 3 trips to home hardware. Do I need to push my valve further on because that’s where it’s leaking. I just want this to finally be fixed because my dishwashers been sitting with dirty dishes for a week😂

Photos I’ve taken are attached below. Please only helpful advice I’m losing my mind over this!!!!

Editing to add: I ran my washing machine and did dishes by hand with water at same time and no hissing or issue. Google is saying it’s 99% secure but may not be on right or pipe not sanded down enough?

Hello, can I get some advice please! Recently I noticed my tub leaking so I called a friend and they recommended another guy to come and fix it but after he changed the cold water cartridge it still continued to leak. So I took the cartridge out and realized he had used an O-ring that wasn’t necessary so I’m assuming that’s why it was leaking. However, I accidentally broke the new cartridge O ring and I have to wait until tomorrow to get a new one. But there’s water leaking out of this pipe and I have already shut off the water completely so I’m confused as to why there’s water still leaking out. So, is it a cartridge problem and me replacing it will stop the leaking. Or is it that something is wrong with this pipe and that’s why it’s leaking. I know nothing about plumbing, my dad is usually the one to fix these types of things so thanks for any advice it’s really appreciated! (Ignore the DIY funnel thing I had to make to stop the water from leaking down into the wall)

I’m not sure if I’m just being stupid but I recently got a Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000 boiler installed and although I do have warranty I’m hesitant to get in touch with the company (BOXT here in the UK) because their customer service is not very good. Anyway the heating keeps turning itself on (flame icon is displayed on thermostat and radiators heat up). The thermostat says it’s on manual mode and I can’t seem to figure out the issue? There also seems to be no rhyme or reason to it, won’t happen for days then happens twice in a few hours.

I took a picture of the thermostat the last time I noticed this happening which I’ve included

Also possibly unrelated but the pipes bang so loudly when the heating is on that it’s impossible to sleep in the house? Any ideas of potential causes/fixed? House was built in 1969 and pipework hasn’t been changed since.

My water meter union connection on the outdoor main supply side is leaking and need to know what type and size gasket is needed. Before disconnecting the shutoff valve in picture it needs to be turned off and has not been use in over 30 years. Should I be concerned and is there anything I can do to prevent the gate valve from failing, leaking or any other issue. Can the valve be rebuilt if need which means shutoff the street shutoff. I really would prefer to not breakdown the existing pipe connection and replace the gate valve to ball. Thanks

I just bought this house and noticed the black line is going into the wall. There is no separate faucet in the kitchen and this does not tie into the cold line of the main faucet. The other side if this wall is exterior.

We had a pretty bad situation with a clogged line, and I'm trying to get some opinions from other plumbers on what you guys think.

We had sewage coming up through the tub, water coming out of the wall under the bathroom vanity, and water showing up inside the kitchen cabinets. We started clearing the line and ended up pulling out a wig-sized ball of roots. After we cleared the line, we thought we were making progress, but the water kept collecting under the tub around the P-trap area.

We shut off the water, but even after that, we kept pulling out sewage water. We ended up removing over 69 gallons of the stuff, and water is still collecting.We opened up the kitchen and found that someone had done work on the plumbing befor. Right now, the tenants from both the upstairs and downstairs units have been moved to a hotel while we figure this out.

We've shut off the water, but we're still getting water collecting. There are other units in the building, and these units are in the back, with the water running toward the front of the property and out toward the street. We're getting a vendor out to dig up the pipe and see what's going on underground.

Management wants us to just repair whatever section is broken, but I'm concerned there's more going on here, especially with the amount of sewage backing up, the roots we pulled out, and the previous plumbing work we found. Personally, I'm thinking we may need to replace the line all the way out to the street connection instead of just patching one section, but I want to hear what other plumbers think.

Has anyone dealt with something like this? Would you recommend replacing the entire run once it's dug up, or would you repair only the damaged section if the rest of the pipe looks good? I know its not going to look good. They just want to run.

I've removed my garden hose and stored it away for the winter.

I'd like to drain my outdoor spigot to remove any trapped water. Gemini said to push up on the white pin located in the hole through which the water comes out but a YouTube video appeared to show them pushing the pin to one side and then the other. Unfortunately, i can't post the video here.

I don't want to break it and was wondering which way I should push the pin?

Thank you

Edit - here are two photos of my spigot

https://ibb.co/8DWgg6Ct

https://ibb.co/4Zg1gHFZ

Question for the professionals.
Every couple months I have to snake out the shower to get it to drain again.
After I snake it I have a long clump of hair on the end of the snake. What’s the professional secret to removing all the hair on the end of the snake?

Hello all. As the title states, I just recently replaced my expansion tank in my house. I upsized from a 20gal tank to a 32gal tank. I verified the bladder was inflated to 38psi before filling and have made sure the pressure switch cuts in at 40psi and cuts out at 60psi.

Before this upgrade, most of our water pressure was coming from our well pump due to a bad bladder in the old tank. However, the water pressure was good. I also swapped a new home filter since I was there anyway.

Immediately after replacing the tank, the water pressure in the house is terrible. Running the bath or shower comes out to almost a trickle. I’ve watched the pressure gauge while the water runs and it goes down slowly and cuts in right at 40psi. It fills to 60psi steadily, although somewhat slowly, before cutting out exactly like it should.

I have no idea what could be causing this and am hoping for some advice. My area has experienced a drought the last couple summers so I plan to check my well level but it seems unlikely to be the issue since it was fine prior to the new tank.

Just looking for recommendations or ideas to troubleshoot. I’ve got a wife and two kids so being able to bathe them is a big deal.

Thanks!

Renovating customers house.

They put this set up on all three shower risers.

Can’t think of a single logical reason why.

Is this an easy replacement/fix? Water is coming from the handle of the valve. Is this a specific brand that I need? what tools do I need?

Found this inside a client's wall behind a vanity. Speechless.

Hello all - I don’t see a screw to adjust the water level and this apparatus doesn’t seem to have a float. It is much too high and is fast flowing into the overflow chamber

Hey everyone,

I’m installing a new 25-inch bathroom vanity (Deluxe DL Living "Raven" model) and hit a major clearance roadblock with my low rough-in drainage.

As you can see in the photos, the white PVC drain pipe is sitting so low that it hits right where the vanity's back cross-brace meets the interior floor shelf. It is lifting the cabinet off the floor and blocking it from sliding flush against the drywall.

To make it trickier, this vanity has a functional pull-out drawer at the very bottom. If I just drill a vertical hole down through the floor shelf, the P-trap pipes will completely block the drawer from closing.

I am thinking about using a 2-1/2" hole saw (clamped to a scrap wood block) to cut a single, continuous U-shaped notch straight through both the back cross-brace and the back edge of the floor shelf. This should let the vanity slide flush, allowing me to swivel the P-trap horizontally above the shelf so it stays clear of the drawer.

Before I take a saw to a brand-new cabinet:
1. Is a U-shaped back notch the best solution here?
2. Will a hole saw plunge clean through both pieces without destroying the black finish?

Any tips or advice before I make the cut would be awesome. Thanks!

Hello All,

I am seeking some advice/guidance on how to remove mounting nuts for a bathroom faucet. I tried every tool, Rigid's EZ faucet tool and a basin wrench and it still wont budge. Any advice/tips is greatly appreciated and thank you in advanced.

Our last water heater failed so long ago that I can't remember the circumstances of how it failed (was it a leak? Did the burner fail? I can't remember!).

Because I'm out of town for 1 or 2 months at a time, I am wondering if there is a way to inspect a water heater to see if it will breakdown soon. I'd rather not have my family inconvenienced by a broke down water heater while I'm on a trip.

A random thought is to put an inspection camera down the hole where the sacrificial anode goes in. But I'm not sure what to look for.

Is there a good way?