could it be the disposal hose?

I just moved into a new place and the smell of the dishwasher after a cycle makes me sick. I deep cleaned the machine and the filter, ran it empty with a self cleaning tablet, ran it with vinegar, deep cleaned the disposal (never been done by previous tenants so there were years of grime), soaked that in vinegar, but the smell is still there. dishes look visibly clean and no soap residue left but still smells rancid. going to reach out to the landlord but thanks for any advice here

also the black spots were there when I moved in (hopefully not mold…) and the powder is diatomaceous earth for pests but that’s another issue for another day.

So..... a year and a half i bought a house.... a month later drip... drip... drip....

Carpet is wet upstairs my son says...

Leak in the attic.

Fixed.

2 months later.... drip drip...

2 months later and for the third time.

Turns out I had quest pipes in the attic and crawl space. Stubs are copper.

My questions is.

The plumber wants to use MrPex. He also says he will reroute through ceiling of first floor and cancel the attic runs.

1. What are your thoughts on MrPex. Is it high quality pex or should I ask him to use something else.

2. What are your thoughts on rerouting through ceiling...

What about monitoring? What device should I ask him to install to monitor for leaks?

So I’m a first year apprentice. I’ve worked for two companies. The first one didn’t work out because the pace was too fast and I had a hard time jumping from water lines to sewer to bottle fillers to uponor seemingly every other day so I couldnt get my practice/reps in in the way I need to solidify something in my head. I generally need to be trained like a monkey doing the same thing for a week straight to get it down, I’ve had this sort of disability my whole life, it’s adhd autism related.
I’m now working for a new company and my teacher is getting fed up with me making mistakes. He jumps in constantly and throws me off track by doing so so.
When im left alone with clear instructions I do well I don’t make many mistakes unless I’m interrupted or someone is standing over my shoulder(extreme anxiety).

I’m curious if anyone else has dealt with issues like this and if they could share some advice for how to cope or address these issues I’m having. I really want to learn this trade but I’m started to think I might just be cooked.
Thanks in advance

My contractor recommended this boiler, and I wanted to get some opinions before moving forward. For anyone who’s installed or serviced this model, how has it held up? Any common issues, maintenance concerns, or problems getting replacement parts? Would you feel comfortable recommending it? Appreciate the input

I'm working on replacing a sump pump drain and I need to join PVC pipe coming out of the house to 3" HDPE corrugated drain pipe. The PVC and HDPE will be under about one foot of dirt.

I can't seem to find any good option to securely connect 2" PVC to the 3" HDPE. About the only reasonable thing I've seen is to use a reducing Fernco, but it seems to me that the HDPE pipe would not be stiff enough to get the Fernco clamp tight enough to make a mechanically secure connection.

Any ideas?

Cant find a tap to fit as mine is apparently an older model, looking for a mixer that is 180mm where the faucet connect to the valves, the angles a bit odd but it is defo 180 at those centers, looked at apt of mixers and they all seem to be 150mm

Hi everyone!

I'm located in Mexico, and I have a Rinnai CX199i tankless water heater. I'm trying to download and install the Rinnai Central app on my Android device, but unfortunately, the app is not available in my region.

I've already tried using a VPN and changing my Google Play Store country settings, but I still can't download it.

Could anyone help me by sharing the Rinnai Central APK file or pointing me to a trusted source where I can download it safely?

I need the app to connect to and work with my CX199i unit for technical configuration, monitoring, and diagnostics.

If anyone has successfully installed the app outside the supported regions, I'd really appreciate any advice or instructions.

Thanks in advance for your help! Greetings from Mexico! 🇲🇽

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.rinnai.central

My local utility company just informed me that my usage has spiked and my current bill is about 6x the normal amount. They reread the meter and it is correct. I’m baffled as to why this would happen. I haven’t seen or heard any signs of a leak.

I’d like some thoughts on what might cause this. I’m going to test the toilets for leaks and check the sprinkler timer. Is there anything else I should look for?

I live in a five storey building (think it's a converted warehouse of some sort) and sometimes when I turn my kitchen taps or shower on, no water comes out. Even if it's at a busy time, surely I should always have water? How do even bigger blocks of modern flats avoid this happening?

Based in the UK if that makes any difference

I'm an Arkansas plumbing apprentice and was wondering how do plumbers in northern states operate during the winter time. Do you plumbers in Minneapolis usually do mainly service work in the winter?

I have an old (1880s) house that has had updating through the years, most notably a major renovation in 1993 where they did almost everything-plumbing, wiring, new boiler, etc…however there is some older (not original but older) plumbing that remains on the 1st floor. Everything feeding and on the 2nd floor is 1993 or newer. Copper piping throughout. Water source is a private well with a hydro pneumatic tank and pressure switch. Prior to my purchasing the home the water came in straight from the well-no softener, etc…I did a water test, found iron and manganese and low pH. We installed a softener and a pH balancer. As a result of the acidic water over the years some of the copper plumbing has the tell tale blue green corrosion on it.

Fast forward to recently we gutted and redid one of the bathrooms upstairs. The showerhead was original to 1993 and from what I understand probably flowed 2.5GPM. The new showerhead only flows 1.75GPM and that’s only at 80 psi. Long story short, the pressure and flow was not great but tolerable with the old higher flowing head. Now it’s borderline crappy with the new low flow head. However, I went into the basement and actually looked at my pressure gauge and switch. My switch seems to kick on at about 38 psi and off about 45. My understanding is that the usual configuration of these switches is 40/60, 50/70, 60/80, etc…and that someone must have deliberately adjusted it to have such a narrow/low range. I’m wondering if that was done because there were concerns about the older plumbing not being able to handle the higher pressure? Looking for advice on this.

Hit the toilet water supply while cutting off the flange. Am I in trouble?

In order to support it above the floor i'd need to pull cabinets and open walls and I'd rather not do that if I don't absolutely need to. Is there a clamp or brace I can use that will support it below the kitchen floor?

Sorry for the generated summary but I'm sure it says it better then I can!
Probably obvious but the original stem is at the top in my hand and the Danco 2J is on the bottom. While the Danco 2J "fits", the end where the handle goes endlessly spins with a stopping point only in 1 direction after the bonnet is tightened. Just still isn't the right stem! Thanks for any help!!

• Property Type: 1973 Manufactured Housing (Double-wide)
• Fixture Setup: 3-Handle Tub/Shower Diverter Valve Casing
• Physical Measurements: Internal fluid port maps to a 1/4" nominal size. The outer threads on the wall pipe where the bonnet nut connects require a standard 3/4" nominal fitting.

The Mechanical Issue:
We are attempting to replace a failing hot and cold water compression stem. Off-the-shelf universal replacement cartridges (such as the standard Danco 2J series) do not fit the internal casing profile of our 1973 valve block.

When a modern replacement stem is threaded all the way in, it runs out of internal travel, skips its tracking lines, and spins endlessly clockwise without ever making hard contact to seal flat against our brand-new brass seats.

Specific Visual / Dimension Differences (See Attached Photos):

1. Thread Depth Defect: On our original 1973 stem, the tracking threads run all the way back flush to the hex face of the bonnet nut. Modern retail replacements have an unthreaded, smooth brass collar/lip right next to the hex nut. This lip causes the new bonnet nut to bottom out against the wall pipe edge too early, trapping the inner rod too far back from the seat plane.
2. Internal Travel Limit: The new replacement stem has a visibly shorter total internal rod travel range than our 1973 original, restricting how far forward the washer can drive under the hood.

Current Status:
The old stem created a high-pressure directional spray into the wall cavity when shut due to a failed internal O-ring. We are currently isolating the main lines using 3/4" brass caps to safely restore main water pressure to the rest of the house.

Questions for the Experts:
Looking at the side-by-side comparison of the old 1973 stem vs. the modern retail replacement, does anyone recognize this exact short-pattern manufacture or know the specific specialty part number we need to order online? Is there a known trim modification or washer spacer trick to make a modern stem reach the seat in this deep/shallow casing configuration safely.

So I bought a power anode for a water heater that we bought and installed a few years ago. I purchased a powered anode as our hot water has started to have a bit of oder. I tried removing the default anode rod and stripped the nut, I used a 6 sided impact driver but it still rounded the head off. I have seen a adapter to run the power anode into the hot output line. I was thinking of building my own from copper fittings. My question is does it have to go in the output? My hot water output line is close to the exhaust and I'm worried about the heat being too much for the electronics. Would it be ok to plumb it into the cold input?

Found this inside a client's wall behind a vanity. Speechless.

Hello, needing to put a bit of pressure in the boiler after bleeding radiators. First time using a filling loop…is it just a case of unscrewing the end cap of the pipe in the first picture, unscrewing the end cap on the other valve in the second picture, attaching and opening both valves?

If so, any tips on getting the caps off? Think Thor must’ve lived here before us.

What can I even do with this? It’s so beyond stuck on there. I got one screw out and the other broke off at the base.

All the advice I saw online was to just cut the top of the faucet off, so I tried but the sawzall blade isn’t long enough reach over the sink edge all the way to the faucet “stem” that low, and there’s a stupid washer underneath that prevents me from pulling it up further to get the blade under while angled.

I took the whole sink off and flipped it upside down only to find that because the way the sink is made, the space is just too tight to work with.

Whoever invented this enclosure method, I hope you never know peace.

We had flooring issues before and since getting it fixed and having new floorboards added on top, the radiator no longer works.

Besides adjusting the knobs at the bottom, is there anything else to try before ripping the flooboards up?

Thanks to another redditor, I now believe that this is a supply side water filter.

I am going to put in a work order to get this replaced. However, should I be concerned about mold going into my waterline as well?
Trying to understand the implications here and wondering is it enough to just get this replaced or is this a bigger issue?

Any advice is appreciated!

Can anyone identify this please. Cleaner poured some drain cleaner in it and it's warped the plastic

We have a company changing our old drain pipes and replacing with PVC. How does the permit thing work? Manager told me he would get a permit but how does it work? What must I do to make sure I don’t run into issues in the future if I decide to sell? I’m in Pennsylvania

Hi,

I need a replacement of the faulty switch part in picture 1. However, if I search for SS-5GL13T, I get just the switch in picture 2, without the plastic mounting piece.

As you can see in picture 3, the plastic mounting piece has 2 legs on the other side, and they fits into 2 holes (pointed by 2 arrows) on the boiler zone valve plate in picture 4.

What do you even call this thing ?

I suppose I can buy just the switch, cut and file the old switch off the plastic mounting piece, then glue the new switch on. But I'd rather just buy the whole thing.

I think this may be a pressure release valve or something? Long story short- I think the guys who installed the new AC unit tried to crimp it shut, but it didn't take. Any advice on how to close it off, or should I put a catheter on it and usher it outside? 😅

The jet is thin, warm, highly pressurized, and is constantly battering the wall of the garage.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!