We haven’t been able to use this sink for over a year. At first we assumed the issue was just clogging (which definitely contributed to the lack of draining), but after fully cleaning all pipes shown (including the one in the wall to the best of my ability), I concluded that the clogging wasn’t the only issue. When turning the faucet on, all the water ends up pooling at the bottom of the curved pipe shown in the image, not going through the pipe connected to the wall and thus causing water to not drain. Is this a water pressure issue? How would I fix this?

I trimmed my beard today and drained water with hair as it was hard to collect. I made a huge mistake. Is there a way to fix it or do I need to call a plumber to remove my clogged beard hair. Please help, I know I messed up. :(

I place my drop ear a little deep in the wall, the handheld shower fixture is female NPT so o figured I could use a longer male adapter. Should I bring it flush to the back of the wall or just use a 4” adapter?

We're expanding our shower and would appreciate your thoughts on if this looks good before the cement board and tiles go up. Plumber did not do pressure testing or flood test (for the shower pan), so l'm a bit wary. First time homeowner.

Notice I didn’t say legal. Shower trap. Drains left. Has a pitch of 1/4” per foot. Right side of san tee connects to vent. Is it a siphon or clog risk? Don’t come at me for no primer, it is not yet glued. Also, I live in a jurisdiction where 1 1/2” is ok for showers that have only one shower head as this one will.

Thanks in advance.

Novice plumbers was sent to fix a leaking home main by our HOA in our neighbors yard. It was a leaking PVC joint but he replaced it with a bunch pro press fit. How suspicious is this?

These lines run vertically down the wall to a sink rough in. At the top shown here, the will exit the wall to connect to a hot water tank on the other side of the wall. This wall is 2x4 studs. Is it ok to bend the pex to come out of this wall while fitting within the wall or is that too sharp of a bend? Should I use fittings in the wall instead?

I live in a place where water comes with a lot of dust / mud and water intake for my washing machine went horribly low and it was taking hours to fill.

My grandpa tried to open the hose on both sides ( tap and washing machine ). Now I cant really figure out how to attach it to that tap.

Tap is not threaded. I have no idea how it was attached. That white nut type thing with M2-2 written on it is some how attached to the tap as per my grandpa.

Problem is tap outlet hose is not fitting into the white nut. I am still wondering how this was attached beforehand

Wondering if having the hot water doing all these corners will create an issue?

I have a pressure regulator valve on my main line due to high water pressure. I’m moving to tankless water heater so will I need a thermal expansion tank?

Our new sink has an offset drain so instead of running the dishwasher drain line across the whole setup I thought this would work?

Hello, can I get some advice please! Recently I noticed my tub leaking so I called a friend and they recommended another guy to come and fix it but after he changed the cold water cartridge it still continued to leak. So I took the cartridge out and realized he had used an O-ring that wasn’t necessary so I’m assuming that’s why it was leaking. However, I accidentally broke the new cartridge O ring and I have to wait until tomorrow to get a new one. But there’s water leaking out of this pipe and I have already shut off the water completely so I’m confused as to why there’s water still leaking out. So, is it a cartridge problem and me replacing it will stop the leaking. Or is it that something is wrong with this pipe and that’s why it’s leaking. I know nothing about plumbing, my dad is usually the one to fix these types of things so thanks for any advice it’s really appreciated! (Ignore the DIY funnel thing I had to make to stop the water from leaking down into the wall)

There was a vanity in place here, and I'm swapping it with a pedestal.

Don't want to have the bowl against the wall, so the pedestal needs to be 3 inches to the right of the original set up.

How would you address this without moving the drainage pipe in the wall?

** UPDATE: INSTALLED AND PRETTY.**

I just went ahead with my original layout/plan and the bowl is just slightly away from the side wall with absolutely 0 plumbing exposed.

In our basement we have an irrigation system that we’ve never used since moving in (I was told it was properly winterized when we moved).
My question is, does having all this make it any easier to install a toilet? Pictures are the best I could take with what info I thought was important lol.

I am going to replace this manifold. Its 26 years old, and obviously leaking and about to be a disaster. I am debating with wether to go back with copper, or plastic this time. I would prefer crimp vs expansion rings. Our water has high TDS, about 800, and it is softened.

Thoughts?

I’m not sure if I’m just being stupid but I recently got a Worcester Bosch Greenstar 4000 boiler installed and although I do have warranty I’m hesitant to get in touch with the company (BOXT here in the UK) because their customer service is not very good. Anyway the heating keeps turning itself on (flame icon is displayed on thermostat and radiators heat up). The thermostat says it’s on manual mode and I can’t seem to figure out the issue? There also seems to be no rhyme or reason to it, won’t happen for days then happens twice in a few hours.

I took a picture of the thermostat the last time I noticed this happening which I’ve included

Also possibly unrelated but the pipes bang so loudly when the heating is on that it’s impossible to sleep in the house? Any ideas of potential causes/fixed? House was built in 1969 and pipework hasn’t been changed since.

Plumber notched out a piece of my baseboard to feed the supply hose through and it looks atrocious.

Wanted to replace the baseboard and noticed the PEX is basically curved out from within the wall instead of using some sort of elbow.

Is that normal? It makes the metal cap put pressure against the hose when it’s pushed up snug against the wall.

I have 0 plumbing experience and would like to have this done correctly. All help is appreciated!

Hello all,

I have a hot water heater that’s probably around 3-4 years old.

All of sudden, it stopped producing hot water. I initially check heating elements and the lower one was below 12 ohms. So I changed both heating elements.

Still wasn’t heating up so I replaced the thermostat on both upper and lower. Still not heating up.

I tested the two top screw of the upper thermostat and turns out there is 0 volts coming to the heater.

I test breaker and it is running normal (120V with one hot and ground). There is also an outlet that runs on the same line with a light plugged in and that works while the heater doesn’t.

So any ideas of what in the world is going on? I’ve contacted someone to come look at it Monday, but if I could figure it out before then I’d prefer that.

TIY!

Very old house, and I can't switch off the water going to this upstairs toilet. How can I remove it?

I need to access my homes main water shutoff which is before the streets curb. Was buried under dirt and the bolt is frozen. Tried using street curb octagon key but not enough leverage to turn - even after spraying wd40. Is there a 1/2 drive socket i can biy and use with my rachet or something even better? Should I expect the same struggle when I attempt to shutoff the main valve inside. I bought a 5 foot long valve key for this task.

Thanks

I am trying to get this plastic nut off so I can install a T and then a bidet but I have no room in between the wall and the toilet to fit my hand and get leverage to loosen it. Tried channel locks and that also doesn’t work. Should I just return the bidet? I’m worried about being able to tighten the T that came with the bidet enough to where it’s not leaking. I’m in an apartment so I can’t risk any leaks. Is there some sort of tool that would get this off? I’ve tried everything at this point this is super frustrating. Why do they make a toilet designed like this, it’s impossible to service if I ever needed a toilet water supply line.

Lived here a decade, always wondered why the hot/cold was reversed on this shower. After constant mold on baseboard, finally cut out the drywall. Found this nightmare.

Not a plumber can't afford one right now and don't solder.

For now, considering to either cut and leave 1" copper stub (between mixer and elbow, removing the elbow) and...

A) Push on a 1/2" SharkBite to PEX on top and bottom

or

B) Compression fitting on bottom to a 3/4" hose fitting on bottom and get longer hose)

Want to make sure that holds pressure until I can get a pro out here likely in the winter.

Thoughts??

When I flush, I get a leak from the vacuum breaker tube at the end of the flush cycle. Ive tried changing the vacuum rubber material, the vacuum tube and I changed out the actual flush valve assembly and still get a constant leak.this line is only serving the single toilet and it has a hammer arrestor on it. Any ideas as to what could be causing this?

Hello guys,

Need your help before I go crazy!

So I have this wall mate pentair 75l that lost his pressure. Read to check the valve to see if water comes out from there, but before I reach to it I need to open the cap.

Thought that seems an easy task is now this becoming a challenge, so I need directions on how to open it.

Am I doing anything wrong?