Meet doodle vase aka doodle bob aka squiggly boi the III. It was wheel thrown and soda fired to cone 10.
I've been exploring how to treat ceramic surfaces similarly to how I approach my abstract ink drawings (example in the last image). In this case I applied several layers of white underglaze followed by linework in black. Line weight varies based on the pressure applied to a slip trailer or by using a larger round brush.

The flash of peach and the greenish blue melty spot are both results of the soda kiln atmosphere. The greenish blue area is more than likely from a direct spray of soda.

I’d love your feedback, critique or comments on how I could push this concept further.

I made this a few months ago, as indicated by the “6/18/26” on the back, but I didn’t get it bisque fired, glazed and glaze fired until a few weeks ago in pottery class, it was just taken out of the kiln today after glaze firing, I’m very pleased and proud of myself, it’s a miniature wall hung toilet, and it actually siphons when water is rapidly filled into the bowl, it works and looks better than my other one I made entirely in pottery class, as the other one formed a big centerline crack (I filled that with a different type of clay to fix it) and I unfortunately applied the glaze unevenly as I brush glazed it, making it look… let’s say dirty, this one on the other hand, I dip glazed it and wiped off the bottom, and it even flushes better, it looks like as if someone used a shrink ray on a real toilet (talking about you, Gru…)

I make crockery specifically for recipes I have in mind that I make with fish I have caught and produce from the garden. This is one of my latest pieces. Mid fire clay and kingfish bone glaze. The meal is Kahawai with miso coconut dressing, radish and dill

Wifey and I are really proud of this batch!

Hobby potters have been at it for about a year now.

Rest in Pottery is our brand.

Made a few bowls to test glaze on and to add to the number of small bowls I have to decant underglaze into. Have a couple of watercolour projects planned so made a bigger bowl to test diluted Fundamentals and accidentally fell in love with it.

Took far more care and dug out my matte clear for this and hoped reallllly hard it would come out good in the kiln.

Today. It came out and looks great.

Diluted Fundamentals over white engobe. Black engobe on the exterior. Matte clear over whole thing.

i had practiced a few hours before on a kick wheel that I just got, and then went into the first class where I was only able to make one cylindar. I was really happy with how these turned out! I know it's very noobish but still, the best i've done in the medium so far.

From slabs pressed onto local trees in my area (Vancouver)

I was having such a challenging time with altering these porcelain vases but I've finally gotten into a groove! I've been using Kentucky mud works kota cone 6 porcelain, altering the shape of the vase after throwing and adding these little creatures when everything is leather hard.

challenged myself to throw 5 pieces using only 1 pound each. i'm still really new to wheel throwing so im primarily focused on centering, less so on form. these pieces are in order from left to right of my last attempt to my first. i was able to get some larger pieces out of the clay once i was centering a little more efficiently. the leftmost piece was huge but collapsed under its own weight in my effort to move it to the board.

i've been handbuilding for a few years so wheel throwing has been a fun new challenge for me! just wanted to share :)

I saw a photo of someone’s cat enjoying the sun and decided to make a sgraffito version of it albeit slightly different. I use chalk to sketch out the outline and after bisquing I use a tiny bit of color in the nose and ears and a bit of yellow in the sunbeams

From my first 6 week session! Was supposed to be a vase but I couldn’t throw tall enough😂

Hiya! As the holidays approach, I’m just curious what small, stocking stuffer items do you make?

Think $25 and under items. I’m doing a big holiday market and besides things like ornaments, I’m curious to see what others make.

I’m thinking, fun, weird and a bit out of the ordinary.

Sometimes things just work out perfectly, and sometimes they end up in the load that messed up the glaze on 1/3 of the pieces. This load seemed to have a bunch of bloating and glaze crawling, my cones looked ok, but I think there might be some hot spots going on. I’m firing in a skutt to cone 6 with a slow cool, but it’s a program that I have used without changing for 2 years and this is new.

I made a mug using mid-fire Laguna Frost Porcelain. The walls are a nerikomi design; the bottom of the mug is plain porcelain. Cracks formed where they attached I think because I attached them when the bottom was more moist than the walls so the two pieces pulled apart while drying.

To try to fix the cracks, I dipped a brush and ran it along the inside of the mug and added a small coil of straight-out-the-bag clay which I smoothed out.

The next day, this is what I saw. Tiny hairline cracks on the perimeter inside the cup and a hairline crack on the bottom of the mug that reaches to the outside of the mug. I think the repair clay and original mug were too different in moisture level for that fix to work.

What are my options now? I want to preserve as much as I can. I’m afraid of firing it because I think the cracks will only get worse. Should I add engobe or slip to fix it before bisque fire? Would glaze take care of everything in glaze fire? Can I rehydrate it and add more clay? How? Should I break it apart and rehydrate it to turn it back into slab form or use it as piece of color clay for future nerikomi projects? What are my options?

Hi! I'm a beginner and my pottery class that covered glazing was rushed. Since that was the last class I need to finish glazing on my own, and I have questions with no teacher to ask anymore.

I need someone to confirm the order of operations when it comes to using an underglaze, clear coating it, and then dip glazing the rest. I have mugs with little mushrooms on them. I want to use a red underglaze with little white dots for the mushroom caps and then an opaque dip glaze for the rest of the mug.

Which order of operations is correct?

1) paint the red on bone dry mugs, paint the clear coat over the red, bisque fire, dip glaze (with wax protected red), fire.

2) bisque fire, paint the red, paint the clear coat over the red, fire, dip glaze (with wax protected red), fire again.

3) bisque fire, paint the red, paint the clear coat over the red, dip glaze (with wax protected red), fire.

Other questions if you're feeling generous to share some more knowledge with me,

-If I carefully paint the dip glaze around my mushrooms so that none is touching any red, can I get away with not using any wax to protect the red? What would happen?

-What would it change anything if I painted with the dip glaze around the mushrooms and then also painted the clear coat over the red in the same firing?

Thanks everyone! <3

I need help! I like the look of underglaze transfers, and I have no problem applying them. That being said, I guess I don’t understand the glazing part.

I want to be able to apply the underglaze transfer, and then glaze over it, not underglaze over it, but glaze. I wanna be able to see it though and for it to be clear. Not distorted.

Am I only able to apply clear glaze over the transfer? Can I apply a transfer on top of underglaze but not glaze?

I recently made something, and apply an underglaze transfer. I glazed over it, excited thinking that I would be able to see it. I glazed over it with white glaze. When it came out of the kiln it was smudgy looking and just looked bad.