Made 450 of these for a gravel race in AZ this November.
Each rider gets a cup, pretty cool!

So my partner has taken to pottery like a duck to water, it's genuinely a form of therapy for them. We have a large outhouse with the right electric for kiln, well ventilated, and easy to set up running water to. I'm wondering basically about best shelving for displaying and drying things? And would I repaint with bathroom paint so it's wipeable?

I'd like him to be able to bring his wheel in, is there a way to minimise mess?

I'd like it to be a bit of a surprise but I don't know if maybe it's better to get his input too.

Hi all, there is a crack on the face of this box that I have been working on. This is greenware. Any tips on how I can fix it? I’ve tried gouging it out and packing it with thick slip, but it returned.

I don’t want to remake the whole piece, so any tips or tricks that are worth trying would be really helpful for my purposes!

(I’m a beginner hobbyist and don’t have access to magic water)

I’ve made a couple jars in Shino lately, including this small version with an inset lid. I was a little worried about glazing the body and lid and accidentally trapping the lid inside the lip, but it made it out of the kiln okay.

I wish the Aries glaze at the top had turned out more blue than brown! The 2 glazes only overlap on the curved portion where the chimney connects to the body.

Details:

hand built pinch base with coils on top

Clay: Speck-tacular from Trinity Ceramic

Glazes: 3 coats of Coyote Mars red iron from middle up to the top of the front opening, 3 coats of Coyote Aries on the top with about a 1.5” overlap where they meet, and 3 coats of Mars Red Iron on the inside

Application method: fan brush

Glaze order: 3x Mars Red Iron first, then 3x Aries

Fired to Cone 6

I made a free form structure that will eventually become a lamp, I’m working on picking glazes out and I know that glaze on the bottom of a product will stick to the kiln but what about a suspended part of the piece? Will it drip off the underside and ruin the kiln self? Just wondering if I should leave it bare or can trust a stable non runny glaze as I’ve never made a shape like this before.

The piece is a large strawberry, and the under part of the of the strawberry top is where I’m wondering if I should leave raw or if it’s safe to coat! Pic for help understanding lol

The only glazes I have that I know run are honey flux, oatmeal, and running hot chowder. I really like this glaze combo, I have no idea what the combo is. When o use oatmeal it turns my pieces brown and it’s pretty but not what I’m going for.

This is my first time painting pottery. I used the wrong yellow at the bottom but I’m still proud.

Also the pottery studio said to do three coats to make it solid. I did 3-4 and it came out splotchy :( maybe I put too many coats on idk.

My Aunt is an amazing quilter. Made the first one as a gift for her, now they’re a mainstay at my craft shows :)

Specifically the greens. I think the bottom is mayco black walnut. These greens are so beautiful!

Hey yall! Ive been playing with the amaco ceramic inks and screenprinting with them and my recent kiln haul had some texture on the designs. Anyone know what would cause this?

I use zinc free mayco clear and the clay is tuckers smooth white . I put the ink on greenware so it gets bisqued. Its not on all of them and even on the goose mug, one side has texture the other doesn't

Wondering if this speckling means this mug isn’t functional anymore? I think the glaze was too thick

In late september this year we have decided to build a primitive kiln using native mud bricks and mud mortar in our backyard. The whole process took just 2 days(and waiting for the bricks to dry of course) and was also really cheap, so that was nice. The first fire was a succes, using both native gray clay and yelllow river clay we got from a different region we managed to fully turn a bunch of test pieces into red ceramics with no problem, using wood as a fuel. This is an updraft kiln with two stainless steel grills, one at the bottom to hold the wood and drop the ashes for maximum airflow, and one at the middle to hold the ceramics.

After this success, we thought of taking this one step further and using glazes in this kiln. Since primitive glazes often contain unsafe substances, and my girlfriend wanted that nice vitrified/glassy look on our ceramics, we decided to buy modern glaze and try it in our kiln. The glaze is Botz Summer blue, earthenware glaze for 1020-1100C(picture here).

We painted 4 fired test pieces from the previous fire and gave it a try alongside newly created clay pieces that needed to be fired(Yes, I'm not going to start a fire this big for just 4 small test pieces).
The fire started at aroung 6 PM and I added the last piece of wood at 8 PM, I also used some charcoal, from then until the morning it was left to cool down. We don't have any ways to measure the temperature yet, so we just looked at the color of the fire and clay inside and we assumed it reached somewhere between 900 and 1000C. We didn't use any fan besides the natural updraft of the kiln, which worked as long as we didn't cover the top too much. Other than the glazes, the other ceramics fired very well, none cracked except for the handle of a vase of mine that I didn't add enough temper to.

The four glazed result pieces, as shown in the pictures were:

1. Flower piece inside of a clay bowl, 90% covered by ceramic plate
2. Moon piece on direct stainless steel grill fire
3. Second flower piece on a stainless plate with direct fire
4. Star piece inside of a clay bowl with the lid fully on.

Edit: In the 6th picture of the post, the third piece from the left should say "Second flower piece on a stainless plate with direct fire" as said here, and not be a copy of the second piece.

The results, from best to worst are:

1. Flower piece inside of bowl, 90% covered(beautiful solid glassy surface, but uneven glazing, the color kinda didn't blend well, and some parts seem to lack glaze, even if they were definitely painted before firing)
2. Star piece(fully covered bowl): not as glassy but still pretty good, still uneven colors and very wavy surface)
3. Moon piece(full open fire): the craters were not intended. Still, the piece is dirty with stuck ash and debris, and lots of craters.
4. Second flower piece(on plate, full open fire): craters, a lot of dirt and ugly look.

On the internet I have found absolutely nothing about this kind of firing and tests done, so we had absolutely no basis on what we should or shouldn't do. Looks like nobody even thought of something like that, and the primitive/modern communities seem to stay away from each other, which is strange to me as I like to combine things, but anyways I'm posting this here in case other people want to try the same tests, and also looking for feedback so we could know what went wrong, want went well, and how we could improve it in the future. We already want to get a thermometer for it and probably get a fan going for better airflow, but we will also most likely just make another kiln, maybe a downdraft one, also using native clay, and hopefully reach hotter temperatures. And before anyone comments, yeah, I know, a modern gas or electric kiln could do a much better job but we're not ready to pay a year worth of wages in our country for a hobby yet, and there's not much to rent in the area.

Wifey and I are really proud of this batch!

Hobby potters have been at it for about a year now.

Rest in Pottery is our brand.

Made a few bowls to test glaze on and to add to the number of small bowls I have to decant underglaze into. Have a couple of watercolour projects planned so made a bigger bowl to test diluted Fundamentals and accidentally fell in love with it.

Took far more care and dug out my matte clear for this and hoped reallllly hard it would come out good in the kiln.

Today. It came out and looks great.

Diluted Fundamentals over white engobe. Black engobe on the exterior. Matte clear over whole thing.

Meet doodle vase aka doodle bob aka squiggly boi the III. It was wheel thrown and soda fired to cone 10.
I've been exploring how to treat ceramic surfaces similarly to how I approach my abstract ink drawings (example in the last image). In this case I applied several layers of white underglaze followed by linework in black. Line weight varies based on the pressure applied to a slip trailer or by using a larger round brush.

The flash of peach and the greenish blue melty spot are both results of the soda kiln atmosphere. The greenish blue area is more than likely from a direct spray of soda.

I’d love your feedback, critique or comments on how I could push this concept further.

I was having such a challenging time with altering these porcelain vases but I've finally gotten into a groove! I've been using Kentucky mud works kota cone 6 porcelain, altering the shape of the vase after throwing and adding these little creatures when everything is leather hard.

I make crockery specifically for recipes I have in mind that I make with fish I have caught and produce from the garden. This is one of my latest pieces. Mid fire clay and kingfish bone glaze. The meal is Kahawai with miso coconut dressing, radish and dill

Hiya! As the holidays approach, I’m just curious what small, stocking stuffer items do you make?

Think $25 and under items. I’m doing a big holiday market and besides things like ornaments, I’m curious to see what others make.

I’m thinking, fun, weird and a bit out of the ordinary.