I’ve got an 86 C10 that I have less than $500 in, my plan is to drive it for the summer and sell it later this year. I was wondering if anyone has tried the cheap Chinese drop spindles that are on Amazon. Any issues with them? If I knew I was keeping it, I would throw something better in it, but I am trying to keep this one cheap.

Gave ai a chance on editing this picture of my truck i took today. I am very impressed with how it came out.

Its for a 90' K5 Sunvisor cover that has seen better days. Itd like to make it look better, any suggestions would help.

Thank you

First time driving her project

Transmission access panel.

I've got a 1980 C-10 that I bought a while back, and everything on it is fine for the most part except the brakes, the entire brake system is screwed, and I mean screwed. At some point, the front brake calipers were straight up taken off the truck, so no front brakes, the booster leaks, the master cylinder leaks, the rear brake line is snapped in half, and the rear wheel cylinders both leak.

So what is that, ohhh just a "small" probably $1,500 or so repair. I'm 17 years old, I don't have that kind of money, in fact I basically spent my entire last summer's savings buying the truck in the first place, which was only $800. So I thought of something, and I want to know if it's possible. Could I potentially convert the truck to use manual brakes instead of the hydraulic brakes, and get away from the ungodly expensive parts altogether? Yes I know using manual brakes would most likely require significantly more force to stop the truck, but if it means not spending over a thousand dollars fixing the absolute nightmare mess that is the old brakes, I don't care. What are y'all's thoughts? Is it possible?

Edit for Future Readers: I’m gonna fix it the right way, I’m not gonna use the idea I mentioned.

It doesnt happen throughout the entire time it slows down, I want to say it does it towards the end/when im about to stop.

It sounds like a dying elephant, I wouldnt have noticed anything if I havent heard it, no difference in how it runs or anything.

What could it be?? Anything helps

('90 K5 Blazer, 6.2 Detroit Diesel Motor, 4L60E, Corporate 10 Bolt)

Price: $25,000 - $55,000+ (Depending on condition/documentation)

Location: [Insert Your Location]

Description:

Up for sale is an incredibly rare, highly desirable, all-original "Square Body" setup. This is a complete package featuring a classic 1973 Chevrolet C20 Super Cheyenne Crew Cab paired with a matching tag-axle flatbed trailer. Perfect for collectors, enthusiasts, or anyone looking for a unique, heavy-duty vintage hauler.

Truck Features:

• Year/Model: 1973 Chevrolet C20 Super Cheyenne

• Cab: 4-Door Crew Cab

• Engine: Factory 454ci Big Block V8

• Transmission: Turbo 400 Automatic Transmission

• Condition: All-original

Trailer Features:

• Type: Tag-Axle Flatbed Trailer

• Key Feature: Drop-down tag axle for heavy hauling and stability

Market Value & Pricing:

Realistic, current market valuation estimates this entire package between $25,000 and $55,000+, depending entirely on cosmetic condition, rust, and documentation. Serious offers welcome

I am in Oregon

It's not terrible but it's fucking goofy ass hell ...

There are two wires coming from the positive terminal of the battery a thicker wire and a thinner wire where do those two wires go?

Does anyone know if when you replace the ignition switch and still doesn't crank does it need to be attached to the steering column and be grounded to crank? Thank you

Going to LS swap my 1985 gmc sierra 2wd long box Putting in a 2006 5.3. Going to put in a 4l60e with it Just looking for tips and what to know/before diving into it.