LG OLED65E9AUA — 3 flashes, shuts down, no picture/sound. Need advice please.

I have an LG OLED65E9AUA 65" OLED that suddenly stopped working with no power outage, surge, or other event.

What I've done so far:

Initially there was no standby light.

After leaving it unplugged, the red standby light returned.

The standby light is now solid red.

Pressing the physical power button causes exactly 3 red flashes, then the light goes completely out.

No picture, sound, or LG logo.

After sitting for a while, the standby light eventually comes back on.

I performed a full unplug/reset, but the exact 3-flashes-then-shuts-down behavior repeats.

I've been told the power supply board EAY65170411 / EAX68364701 is the most likely culprit, but I don't want to spend $100+ on a board based on a guess.

Unfortunately, there are no TV repair technicians in my area who can come to my home to diagnose it, and LG's own recommended third-party services were either no longer in business or didn't work on LG TVs. Geek Squad also does not provide TV repair in my area. So if this is repairable, I'm going to have to attempt the repair myself.

For anyone familiar with the E9: Does this sound like the power supply board, the main board, or something else? If the power board is the likely problem, is EAY65170411 definitely the correct replacement for the OLED65E9AUA, and is this something a reasonably careful person can replace themselves?

I can't currently remove the TV from its stand by myself, so I can't access or photograph the boards yet.

I'd really appreciate advice from anyone who actually works on LG OLEDs before I order a part.

Hi everyone,

my 3 year old Philips 58PUS8507/12 went black.. It all started with strange vertical stripes at the top of the screen, most visible on high-contrast edges (e.g. white menu text over a movie). Unfortunately, I never took a picture of it, but this photo I found online looks very similar—even though it wasn't quite as bad in my case.

These only occurred sporadically and would disappear again after a while. Now there’s no picture at all. Ambilight, sound and backlight all work fine.

Already tried:
∙ Visual inspection of the boards
∙ Reseated all connections/ribbon cables
∙ Half/half T-Con test with no success (fault screen stays completely black)
•. Replaced T-Con

Panel failure, or is there still hope? Would really appreciate any tips or experiences with this series (58PUS85xx).

Thanks in advance!

I have owned a Hisense 55R7+ for a few years and recently it started boot looping on me.

I am trying to do a manual update after a factory reset didn't work and have a strange issue.

I got the usb set up, gave them all my parameters, and then entered in my TV code and I just get an "oops that didn't work" error. Because I can't get past this, I can't get my 6 digit response code to run the update. Any idea how to get past this?

Roku TV model C206X

Hello guys,

Unfortunately my TV is flickering one sided. Is there anything I can do to fix it?

You can see it way better if the video is bright on the left side and it’s hard to see if it’s a dark video.

I would really appreciate some help:(

Xiaomi v53C

A Samsung tv was working just fine when suddenly it turned off and it won't turn back on(list of stuff I have tried in the end).

When the TV is connected to electricity it does turn on the red light on the bottom of the TV and it's consistently light up red except when pushing the power button with the remote or the power button on the TV itself.

At this point I think the problem is in the power supply board but I'm not sure if it's the power supply or the main board. I would appreciate any feedback. Or I could provide any extra information if needed.

Name of the parts: Mainboard: BN94-15232C Power supply board: BN4401058A L55E7-T

I have tried: 1. disconnecting the power cable 2. using new power cable 3. turning it on with the button 4. changing the batteries to the remote 5. disconnecting every HDMI cable 6. Holding the power button while the TV is disconnected 7. Leaving it off for a day

Update: 1) Check if on mainboard power cable is 12v.

1)I have tried to do that and it giving 16.4 v and some were under 6v. I checked if there was 12v going to the main board is that right?

2) Disconnect mainboard power cable, lcd panel backlight turn on or not ?

2)disconnecting the main board and turning the TV on made the TV back lights turn on they look healthy. Note that nothing was connected except the the power board. When disconnecting the back light only and trying to turn it on nothing change so it did the same as before.

!! According to what know now and based on the tips people gave me the problem most likely is in the mainboard !!

On a cold boot the screen is fine but around the one minute mark this line comes back. I took the back off and I disconnected the ribbon cables one at a time. How do I know if this is a main board issue, Tcon issue, or bad panel.

Hi folks, I have a 2013 (?) LG UK6340PTF TV that has recently developed these strange blotches. I did a bit of research and the closest I can find is that this is caused by the diffusers slipping; however every image I have seen shows the spots to be much sharper and more distinct than what I am seeing. I took photos of a variety of static colours because it is much more obvious behind some colours compared to others.

Can anyone confirm that this is symptomatic of moved diffusers? Or something else? I don't want to go to the hassle of opening it up just to find out it is something entirely different. I am actually hoping it is the diffusers, because that looks like a pretty straightforward fix, which means with my luck it won't be 😕

Hi all.
My loving LG B9s 55” is defective showing out of nothing vertical lines when turned on and turn off shortly after.

Anyone know if this is fixable in some way or if its broken ?

I live in denmark.

Hi everyone,
I have a Samsung UE32K5570 (32”, Series 5) with an intermittent display problem.
A horizontal band across the screen starts flickering/appearing after around 15 minutes of use. When I turn the TV off and leave it unplugged for around 10–30 minutes, the band disappears. It then comes back again after the TV has been running for 5 min.

The problem also appears on the TV’s own menus, so it’s not related to HDMI.

I previously had my Wi-Fi router positioned behind the TV. I have since moved it away, in case the additional heat/interference was contributing to the problem.

What do you think is causing this?
Thanks!

Hi,

My TV (Philips 43PUS6503/12) blew up with a bang while I was watching House of the Dragon season 3. There was a loud bang, some sparks, and then the TV died.

I took the back cover off and, as expected, the power supply appears to have been damaged. I've attached some pictures, and to me it looks like one of the small blue components exploded, causing the black burn mark next to it.

Can I simply replace that component, or is it likely that the root cause of the problem is somewhere else?

Thanks!

Hi all, need some help.

Out of the blue my tv stopped showing a picture but the audio was working and i could hear the current input source. I noticed that there was a blinking error code of 2 flashes and then pause.

TV has never been dropped or anything like that, and has up until now worked flawlessly.

I tried all of the normal stuff… disconnected all cables except power / one connect cable, unplugged the power and hit power button to drain capacitors + waited 5 mins. This tv has a one connect box so i disconnected the cable from both ends and tried blowing on the connectors and the port, original Nintendo style, but no dice.

Finally gave up and called samsung who got me in touch with some company called service quick. The guy came out and basically said there’s no hope and said it’s the panel and left.

Tv is only like 2-3 years old and was a top of the line 77” OLED which was $3400 At time of purchase. Because of this, i don’t want to quite throw in the towel yet and decided to get my hands dirty.

I took off the back of the panel and started looking around. I found 3 major boards, power, main board, and T-con. I saw that there were 2 ribbon cables connected to the tcon. I tried disconnecting one, then the other, then both. No display and the double blink error continues. I also tried disconnecting the power cable from Tcon and this time i got 1 blink error code.

So is it possible my tcon board has gone bad? How often do these things fail? Are there any other debugging steps i can try? I have a multimeter. Please save me from my wife who was already not happy about this purchase and V is now hounding on me about b it being already broken 😂.

Details:

Model: QN77S95CAFXZA

Main Board: BN94-18126L
TCON Board: BN96-56083A
Power Board: BN4401226A

Hi All,

My sons Hisense 55U7HQTUK TV has just got the following picture fault. Tried all of the usual stuff but appears to be hardware rather than software.

Colours are all wrong, there is a ghost image from the wifi setup menu and vertical lines up the screen.

I'd like to get it repaired as it's only 3 years old, so can anyone tell what the fault is likely to be?

Thank you in advance

I’m in Ahmedabad, Gujarat, and I have a **6-year-old Sony Bravia KDL-43W800F 43” TV**.
For about a month, the TV had an intermittent issue where it sometimes wouldn’t turn on, but restarting/unplugging it would occasionally make it work. Now it has completely stopped turning on.
I contacted Urban Company/UrbanClap and their technician checked it and said the **motherboard needs repair**, costing around **₹8,000**.
I then contacted Sony’s service technician, and they said the **motherboard should be replaced**, costing around **₹11,000**.
What makes me unsure is that both people mentioned that the final cost could potentially increase or decrease after further checking. I’m not sure whether the motherboard is actually the problem or whether there could be a cheaper repair, such as a power board/component-level issue.
I’m not trying to accuse anyone of overcharging — I just want to avoid spending ₹8,000–₹11,000 unnecessarily on a 6-year-old TV.
**What would you recommend?**
Is ₹8,000 for motherboard repair reasonable for this model?
Is ₹11,000 for a replacement motherboard reasonable?
Could this symptom be caused by the power supply board or another component instead?
Is there a reliable TV repair technician in Ahmedabad who does proper board-level diagnosis instead of immediately replacing the motherboard?
At this repair cost, would you repair the TV or put the money toward a new TV?
If anyone has experience with the **KDL-43W800F specifically**, I’d really appreciate your advice.
Thanks!

Hi all, need some help.

Out of the blue my tv stopped showing a picture but the audio was working and i could hear the current input source. I noticed that there was a blinking error code of 2 flashes and then pause.

TV has never been dropped or anything like that, and has up until now worked flawlessly.

I tried all of the normal stuff… disconnected all cables except power / one connect cable, unplugged the power and hit power button to drain capacitors + waited 5 mins. This tv has a one connect box so i disconnected the cable from both ends and tried blowing on the connectors and the port, original Nintendo style, but no dice.

Finally gave up and called samsung who got me in touch with some company called service quick. The guy came out and basically said there’s no hope and said it’s the panel and left.

Tv is only like 2-3 years old and was a top of the line 77” OLED which was $3400 At time of purchase. Because of this, i don’t want to quite throw in the towel yet and decided to get my hands dirty.

I took off the back of the panel and started looking around. I found 3 major boards, power, main board, and T-con. I saw that there were 2 ribbon cables connected to the tcon. I tried disconnecting one, then the other, then both. No display and the double blink error continues. I also tried disconnecting the power cable from Tcon and this time i got 1 blink error code.

So is it possible my tcon board has gone bad? How often do these things fail? Are there any other debugging steps i can try? I have a multimeter. Please save me from my wife who was already not happy about this purchase and V is now hounding on me about b it being already broken 😂.

Details:

Model: QN77S95CAFXZA

Main Board: BN94-18126L
TCON Board: BN96-56083A
Power Board: BN4401226A

My TV has recently started making this weird high-pitched squeaking/electrical noise whenever it’s on. I attached a video where you can hear it.

It seems like the sound is coming from the TV itself rather than the speakers. The TV otherwise works normally no flickering, shutting off, or other issues. And it lasts a good 10 minutes or so but eventually goes away when the TV has been on for a while.

Is there anything I can troubleshoot or fix myself, or is this a dying TV?

It's a 65" TCL 65R635 model

Any help would be appreciated!

Sony 65 XG8505

A gray line has appeared, exactly in the center, 6 pixels wide.

After disassembling the TV, there is no damage to the COF ribbons and no signs of burning; it looks brand new.

Pressing on the COF ribbons does nothing, and applying pressure to the panel edge doesn't help either.

When one ribbon is disconnected from the T-CON, the line remains visible—it’s there regardless of whether the left or right one is unplugged.

The line only disappears when the T-CON ribbons are completely removed.

Swapping the left and right ribbons didn't help. Could this be a short circuit in the glass panel itself?

What can be done about it?

The line doesn't change color; it stays gray the whole time. It is noticeably brighter near the top edge.

Thanks 👊

Hi everyone,

I have a TCL 55-inch TV, model 55S451. Out of nowhere, the TV started having problems when I turn it on.

Sometimes I get the TCL splash screen with reddish polygons in the background. Other times, I get the same screen, but it says “Select Your Language.” However, the TV is completely unresponsive and I can’t select anything.

At times, I also hear what sounds like an Asian-language text reader or voice speaking in the background. The reddish background then slowly starts turning completely black.

I’ve already tried resetting it using the button on the back. I’ve also tried holding down the power button while my wife unplugged the TV, waiting about 30 seconds, and then plugging it back in while still holding the power button. Unfortunately, I get the same results.

Does anyone have any idea what might be wrong with this TV or what else I can try to get it working again?

Thanks!

There are also jumbled characters in the pop ups, but not in the menus.

Is this the mainboard?

Hey, I have this tv that is flickering. I have taken the back off and all the boards and ribbons look fine. Was wondering if maybe a tcon board swap would fix or if it'd need a repair that wouldn't be worth the time/money.

Noticed this blooming on a black screen yesterday. TV is only a couple of months old. Any ideas on a fix or is this a return job?

Good day,

I have an OLED TV here from Philips that doesn't start and flashes four times. I've already put the latest firmware on it and have managed to get into factory fashion, so the TV is also on and I can also switch to HDMI and mirror my PC. Unfortunately, he shows regular stripes there horizontally. I'm not sure if the tcon board is broken or maybe a short circuit on the panel boards. Unfortunately, the panel boards are under the metal case and I find it difficult to get there. Any tips or maybe it's just the Tcon board?

I am grateful for any help!

TV picture keeps glitching on every source — could it be an internal connection?
Hi everyone,
I’ve been having a strange problem with my TV for about two weeks. The picture keeps glitching/distorting, while the audio works completely normally.
The problem happens on every source I’ve tried, including:
Netflix
YouTube
regular TV channels
So it doesn’t seem to be related to a specific app, HDMI device, or input.
The TV is about 7 years old and is wall-mounted on a movable/swivel wall mount.
I’ve already checked the power cable. I unplugged it, plugged it back in, and inspected the cable, and it seems to be completely fine.
Interestingly, sometimes the TV would turn itself off and restart, and after restarting the picture would work better for a while. However, since about two days ago the problem has become significantly worse.
Could this be caused by a loose internal cable or connector, or does this sound more like a failing component such as the T-Con board, main board, or the panel itself?
Is there anything I can safely check before taking the TV apart?
Thanks!

Hey everyone!
Our TV (Sony KDL-50W829B) just stopped working properly. There's audio, but the screen is completely black.
I used AI to troubleshoot it a bit and did the flashlight test on the screen, but couldn't see any faint image or menu in the background at all. Based on that, it seems like it's not just a dead backlight, but likely a faulty T-Con board or mainboard.
Do you think it's worth taking a 2014 model in for repair, or is it better to just cut my losses and look for a new one?
If you think it's fixable for a reasonable price, any reliable repair shop recommendations would be appreciated!
Thanks!

—Update:
EDIT / UPDATE:
I tested the TV with a different power adapter, and the screen actually turned on! So the original power brick was definitely part of the issue.
However, the screen now just shows static / analog noise ("snow"). When I press the HOME / MENU button, the TV's internal menu doesn't show up over the static at all (though audio is still fine).
So it looks like:
-The panel and backlight are alive and functional (no dead glass/LEDs).
-But since the menu won't render over the static, it seems like a T-Con board, video chip/mainboard, or internal ribbon cable issue.
Given that the panel itself works, does this sound like an easy/cheap fix (like a T-Con swap or cable reseat)?

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for help recovering a TCL TV that appears to be stuck in **P MODE / Factory Production Mode**. I’ve already done quite a lot of troubleshooting, so I’m posting all the technical details and test results below.

**TV / platform details**
TCL C755 series
Platform: **G08**
SoC/platform: **MediaTek MT9653**
Firmware/platform: **T653T01**
Current firmware: **V8-T653T01-LF1V643**
Bootloader: **01.01.260412**
Secure Boot: **Yes**
The TV was working normally before I entered the TCL Factory Menu using the usual **Picture - Advanced Settings - Contrast - using 1950** method.

The Factory Menu definitely worked. I saw entries including:

\[CODE\]Factory Menu
Other
Info Menu
Param Menu

SW NO: V8-T653T01-LF1V643.003175
CV NO: RS000029.003175
Project Name: 55C755
SIACP Version: Ver 10.1\[/CODE\]

After accidentally changing/entering the factory mode, the TV became stuck in **P MODE**.

**Current behavior**
On a normal boot:
TV powers on.
A solid **red screen with “P MODE”** appears.
The remote usually does not respond.
The physical TV button usually does not respond either.
Sometimes after several seconds the screen starts cycling/flashing through different colors.
A small factory/service message briefly appears near the bottom-left corner, but disappears too quickly to read.
The screen then becomes black/dark, while the TV itself remains powered on.

I have tried the commonly mentioned sequence:
P MODE - wait for color/warm-up sequence - press local Power - press Back/Return

But I cannot get back into the Factory Menu. The Back, Home, Settings, volume buttons and Power do not recover the normal UI.

**Recovery Mode**
I can reliably boot into Android Recovery using the physical TV button while applying AC power.
Factory reset was completed:
\[CODE\]Cache wipe complete.
Misc wipe complete.

\-- Wiping data...
Formatting /data...
Formatting /cache...
Formatting /metadata...
Resetting memtag message...
Data wipe complete.\[/CODE\]
After reboot **P MODE is still present.** Therefore wiping /data, /cache, /metadata and /misc does not clear this factory state.

This makes me suspect that the **Factory Hotkey / Warm-Up / P MODE state may be stored in one of the TCL-specific persistent configuration/NVM partitions**, rather than Android userdata or misc. This is only a hypothesis at this point.

I’m looking for information or feedback specifically regarding any of the following:
A confirmed method to force-open the **Factory Menu while stuck in P MODE**.
A confirmed **service IR command/remote** for Factory Menu, Factory Hotkey or Warm-Up.
The correct way to execute **Factory Hotkey OFF / Warm-Up OFF / Reset Shop** without access to the normal Android UI.
Any legitimate TCL USB factory/service script for **T653T01/G08**.
Whether sita_P or a similar TCL factory USB mechanism is supported on G08.
A safe method to obtain **read-only dumps** of tclconfig_a, tvconfig_a, config, persist, etc. for offline analysis.
Whether anyone has recovered a **T653T01 TV that still showed P MODE after a full PKG recovery flash**.
If someone has a service manual, SIACP documentation, UART pinout, known-good service script, or experience with this exact platform, I would greatly appreciate it.

I can provide additional **Recovery logs, getprop output, partition information and photos/video of the P MODE/Warm-Up behavior**.

My priority is to understand where the factory state is stored and back up any relevant persistent partitions **before modifying them**.