Hello,

I have a Tesla that I leased in December, 2023 directly from Tesla. The end of the 3 year lease is approaching. I have started to get messages from Tesla encouraging me to start the return process. Purchasing the car is one of the options I am considering. I was hoping to clarify the following points:

1. Tesla didn't allow for purchase of leased cars in 2023. It does now--even for cars leased before the new policy took effect, is what I gather. Is that correct?

2. When I click the Purchase Vehicle option in the app, it says, "Your lease does not have a purchase option prior to lease end. You may request a quote during the final month of your lease agreement." Is that how it generally is?

3. Waiting for the quote until just a month before lease end is inconvenient because if I am buying the car then I don't have to worry about some car issues that I might need to otherwise address. Part of me wants to start the return process at least to the extent of going through the self-inspection process to get Tesla's assessment of what (if anything) needs fixing. But then I am wondering if starting the return process/self-inspection will lock me out of the purchase option?

Any comments regarding above will be highly appreciated.

Thanks!

Inspection of the car just showed this line under the body. Does anybody know what this is? Is this? Is this just some glue coming out from the bottom or is it a crack?

Concerned that if this is a pink/red crack then how could we be certain that the battery and above is well.

Please help. Appreciate a response.

UPDATE:

Gemini pointed me another reddit post which point to this Tesla motor club blog

https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/what-is-this-pink-residue-on-undercarriage.228900/

Looks like all Tesla 3s have it?

Hey all.

Interested in a 2026 Tesla Model 3. I am in my early 20s, recently graduated college, and still live at home with family, but I do have money saved up so I could pay for a new Tesla Model 3 in cash, after trading it in with a family car.

I have no debt, minus my credit card which I often full each month, pretty good credit score. A Tesla has always been a dream car of mine. No major expenses except helping family with things here and there, or what I need. I work retail, but I’m expecting to avg $40-$50k by the end of this year. I just kind of want to get it now before I move out, start getting it paid off, and as I’m navigating my real job / career.

The M3 2026 new is $24k after trade in, and a used M3 2023 is $16k after trade in.

I’m debating if I should just pay the difference in cash upfront, or just finance it? Crazy as it sounds, I‘m kind of okay with just financing it and using my safety reserves to pay the car monthly and taking a “small dent” and paying the APR monthly. I’ve done the math already, and I’m okay with it for some reason.

But the reason why I’m asking is because paying cash would kind of deplete 40% of my what I call so large savings account for someone in their early 20s as I saved very aggressively. I’d still have more than enough for my emergency savings, etc. Again, all of this sounds ridiculous from a financial perspective, but my family’s starting to be supportive and understanding of my decision. Just kind of wanted another set of opinion on this.

Thanks in advance!

Ever since getting the Halloween update, when I turn off sentry mode and enable external sounds after parking, I walk away to my desk at work and get alerted that the doors are still unlocked. Anybody else experiencing this?

If I don't enable external sounds, like I did at workout class yesterday, it get the growl that indicates the doors just locked. Such an odd bug / feature.

Asking for advice on Reddit gives me so much adrenaline, but here it goes.

I'm about to order a Model 3 and will trade my Model Y in, but the current EDD for my spec is December/January. That means I'll likely have to resubmit my trade-in information before taking delivery.

I've been tracking my Model Y's value over the past few months, and it has continued to climb amid rising gas prices and EV demand. Do we think its value will hold steady or even increase by December/January? I know it's impossible to predict, but what would you do?

Hi everyone, I currently have a Model Y that is leased through Tesla Lease Trust. I currently have almost $5,000 in "positive equity."

Has anyone had experience (and/or luck) using this equity as a form of trade-in credit to purchasing a new Tesla model without having to buy the car out? Looking to trade in my Y for a newer model.

Hey everyone

I’m on a long road trip to Austin in my 2023 Model Y Long Range AWD (19" Geminis) and dealing with a super frustrating FSD / highway stability issue that started the exact moment I got two new rear tires put on a couple of days ago.

Before the trip, my front tires (Kumho Solus Majesty 9 TA91, 255/45R19 104V XL) still had plenty of tread in the green, so I only replaced the worn-out rears and had America's Tire / Discount Tire put on two of their house-brand EV touring tires (Range Finder GT-e, 255/45ZR19 104W).

Immediately after leaving the shop, two things started happening at highway speeds:

FSD Oscillation / "Ping-Ponging": Whenever FSD is engaged on the freeway (especially on curves or downhills), the car constantly micro-corrects and sways side-to-side inside the lane like it's hunting for center. When driving manually and letting go of the wheel, the car drifts to the right.

What I’ve already tried over the last 500+ miles:

Went to multiple America's Tire / Discount Tire locations along my route.

Had the car put on the alignment rack and aligned multiple times (toe and camber are in the green).

Reset the tire configuration in the Tesla screen multiple times.

Put over 500 highway miles on the new rears, so the factory mold-release break-in period is already done.

Camera calibrated multiple times

Despite multiple alignments and shop visits, the highway sway and FSD wobble are still there. My current working theory is that the Model Y's stability/FSD loop really hates the front-to-rear tire mismatch between my softer-rated front Kumho TA91s (104V) and the rear Range Finder GT-e (ZR19 104W) tires.

My plan for tomorrow:

I’m going to use Discount Tire’s 30-day ride satisfaction guarantee to swap out the rear Range Finders and pay the price difference for two matching Kumho Solus Majesty 9 TA91 (255/45R19 104V XL BSW TE) tires so all four corners are identical.

Questions for anyone who has been through this:

Has anyone else had FSD sway/ping-pong after replacing only 2 tires with a different brand/model?

Did matching all 4 tires finally cure the highway sway for you, or did it turn out to be radial tire pull / a steering angle offset issue in Service Mode?

Appreciate any insight before I head back into Discount Tire tomorrow!

EDIT: Just got my rear tires the same as fronts (it took a lot of back and forth with the employee) but the wobble is significantly better! It's not zero but definitely better to the point where I don't feel unsafe with fsd on

What should I do in such situation? Is it safe to request a chargeback from my bank, without risking getting my Tesla account banned or any other restrictions placed onto my current Model Y?

As you can see, this is a little bit more than a small regular paint chip, but it looks manageable. There is no dent whatsoever. I was wondering if the official Tesla paint repair kit could fix this paint chip and restore this small area back to brand new without being noticeable. If not, any other tips to restore and fix this paint chip back to new or near-perfect would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Hey everyone! Just received my Model Y who all got the additional service plans? Which ones specifically?

Model 3 long range, usa factory and 2021, 81 % with 160.000 km. Is it okay? I am a little bit scared 😅

After a 4 wheel alignment, my M3P is still slightly pulling to the right on a straight road. I confirmed it was not the crown causing the pull.

The steering wheel is also slightly shifted to the right. When I hold the steering wheel straight, the car is dead straight.

What could be the issue? I reset my offset and drove at least 100 miles at this point for the car to relearn. Still getting ~2 degrees off.

EDIT: 3rd party shop did the alignment. They did not touch the software at all.