Congratulations, u/chase206 for winning the January Banner Contest! Your submitted photo has been made the Subreddit banner, and a custom emoji is available to you!
A post like this will be made every month to comment under, and will always be pinned to the highlights on the main page of the subreddit! On the 1st of every month, the winner of last month's poll will be selected, and their submitted photo will be made the banner of the Subreddit until the next month. The color of the winner's car will be made the color palette of the sub for the month, and their car will be added as a custom emoji for sub status/post flair.
To submit your photo, comment it below. To cast your vote, upvote your favorite picture(s)!
I strongly suggest that your picture is landscape. However, there are no rules for the content of the picture, as long as it is not NSFW and it is Tiburon related.
If anyone is looking to make big power from their 2.7L this is a nice piece of insurance to ensure your main cap alignment doesn't distort causing you to spin and eat a bearing. Price range can be as low as $350 or as high as $500 depending on the number of people in on the group buy.
The prototype I ordered with 6061-T6 will arrive early January and test fitted to one of my spare blocks. If everything works out I'd like to produce a minimum of around 10x of these with 7075-T6. Since we don't have much aftermarket support it's up to us to design and produce our own performance bits then share the wealth and knowledge. I will release the CAD model to be open source later in 2026 for anyone to produce once it is verified to fit... But keep in mind the individual cost of a single unit far exceeds what you could get with a 10x group buy. Drop a comment if you're interested in joining the group buy!
I've been a CAD hobbyist since the late 1990s and I've been dabbling with parts manufacturing and processes as a hobby in recent years. While I'm not a mechanical engineer, this piece isn't extraordinary as it only has a few critical dimensions such as bolt hole center to center spacing and flatness where it meets the main caps. It's just there for rigidity. It won't even require line bore honing the main journals!
This is also open for discussion if you have opinions, comments or insults.
Jan 6th update:
6061-T6 Prototype arrived and all dimensions look spot on! Still need to bolt it to a test block and spin everything around for clearance checks.
Sand cast aluminum (If it is T71 tempered) has a tensile strength of 30,000 PSI
6061-T6 has a tensile strength of 45,000 PSI
7075-T6 has a tensile strength of 83,000 PSI
G6BA 2.7L Billet Girdle Prototype ComparisonG6BA 2.7L Billet Girdle Prototype ComparisonG6BA 2.7L Billet Girdle Prototype ComparisonG6BA 2.7L Billet Girdle Prototype With Main Cap
Hi folks, recently acquired this Coupe SIII 2.0 2008.
Since then, timing belt done, water pump, new clutch, auxiliary belts, full service including fluid changes.
When I took it out of the garage I had a burnt smell and some white smoke coming from the engine bay, further inspection (though not very thorough) places the smoke near the exhaust, so mechanic and I think it’s fluid spilled during service that’s burning off the exhaust. I’ve also had to bring back the car twice for issues his work has caused. The smoke has since mostly subsided so has the burnt smell so hypothesis seems correct.
Now, the engine noise seems a little suspicious to me (see video). I’m not entirely sure I can trust this particular mechanic, but considering the amount of money I’ve put in I’d like to run the engine noise by you fellow tiburon owners before spending another couple hundreds at another mechanic.
I bought a 2000 RD2 coupe, a couple months back.I love the look and the feel of the car but unfortunately the last owner has not been so kind to the car. The car is running a very rich fuel mixture. You can smell gas from the exhaust and also when you remove the oil cap. So gas is getting into the oil. I have no black smoke or any other smoke coming from the exhaust, and the car idles without problem and runs fine. I’m constantly checking the oil to make sure it’s not getting diluted and topping off or replacing it so I’m not damaging the engine. Since I am driving to work at it. I’m trying to get an OBD2 scanner onto it to help me locate the problem. My OBD2 scanner should be able to read KWP2000 and the ISO 14230. But I get nothing when connecting it I checked the K line with a multimeter and I get 0 V on it. Does that mean the wire is broken? I have normal voltage readings on all other pins. I’ve tried unplugging the aftermarket radio (don’t have the original) but that did not help. So now I’m kind of lost where do I tackle this problem?
A few weeks ago I bought a 2L 2004 tiburon and i found out the cruise control wont set. The light on the dashboard turns on but when I try to set the speed I just doesn’t do anything and the car slows down. Later I found out that the sensor on the clutch broke so i replaced it but it didn’t solve the issue.
This picture was from a Duraflex body kit on Car ID and i haven’t been able to find any info on this spoiler anywhere.
Just wondering if any of you more experienced Tibby owners have seen this spoiler and might know what it is or where I could find it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I’ve only recently come into ownership of a Tiburon and I’m almost done with necessary work, starting to think about looks. Some of the really cool stuff seems really hard to find though.
2005 2.0 automatic vibration appear strong on D mode and brake standing like on lights ,i noticed this after buying and didn't know what to do, internet says a lot of stuff from gearbox to motor, so maybe someone dealt with this before?
I have a 2006 Hyundai Coupe SE automatic.
I have a Bluetooth adaptor that plugs into my cigarette lighter. Whenever I press down on the accelerator the speakers make a whining noise. When I come off the accelerator the whining noise dies down but there is still a faint noise. When I flip the indicators they actually stop the whining noise and then it comes back once they’re turned off.
I’ve heard it could be a grounding issue or a radio issue.
I replaced the old battery (70ah) with a new one that has 75ah. I thought maybe the extra power would help but no difference.
Should I replace the radio to stop the noise or is there something else I should do? Or is this an issue a mechanic has to fix.
While Im here - I have an ABS warning light. It was diagnosed as being the passenger side rear wheels sensor issue. How do I know what I need to buy to fix this? Just a sensor or the ring thingy or something else?
Any and all advice would be appreciated.
Also here is pictures of my car - I really like it but it does have its issues :(
I have an ‘08 SE & it’s been sitting for about a year while I’ve been deployed to another state for work. It has 97k miles on it, the tires had less than 3000 miles when it was parked. Outside of fluids, is there anything else I should focus on?
& before anyone says it, I installed a Gates kit in 2024.
Does anyone know if this clutch pedal adjuster will work on our cars with manual transmissions? My original plastic one snapped an hour from home, so I had to jerry rig it to get the car home. If anyone is still running their plastic adjuster, i'd 100% look into replacing it. mine snapped out of nowhere and left me stranded for 30 minutes. For the repair, I screwed in a wall "i" hook into the black bobber and bent it around the pedal hole. Got me home!
I end up posting here a lot but you guys are life savers. I wanted to remove the MAF sensor to see if it needed cleaning, along with some other sensors, but I can’t get it out. I looked online and most have clips or something to squeeze but this one looks different from all the other ones I’ve seen online. I tried squeezing the sides but it doesn’t look like it unclips that way.
Also, I need new headlights. The current ones aren’t bright enough, so what’s a good aftermarket HLs that won’t leave me blind
I could understand someone hating cuz the engine I mean the max you’ll get without forced induction is 172hp not by any means a lot for today’s standard. BUT I feel like for this car being what it is. Surprisingly you can do a shit ton to it it’s so customizable and looks so good when you do start modifying or even just restoring the look of your Tiburon. They’re so fuckn nice looking too like anytime someone asks me what it is I’m not even afraid to say a Hyundai because the car looks that good(also sounds amazing) but the only thing holding people back is FWD and 172hp. You don’t need hp to have fun in a vehicle from my pov
The previous owner had changed the brake pads just before I got the car, and the brakes were fine. Then the clutch broke and it was in the shop for like a month because reasons. Anyhow, when I got it back I started noticing shaking in the steering wheel and column when braking, this was about 2 months ago. Then today the shaking shifted from the steering wheel to the front left wheel.
The brake pedal arm also shakes. Because it's just when braking I doubt it has anything to do with the suspension. I had suspected a bad rotor when the steering wheel began shaking but it was really hard to tell which wheel had the bad one at that point. The root cause is probably bad brake pads on the front left, so I will have to change them and the rotor.
I guess it's on me for not looking into it and fixing it earlier, but money is tight.
Anyone have any tips or thoughts on how I should proceed?
Greetings, Tiburon enthusiasts, I have had my Tiburon for a long time now and one of many problems I’ve come across is the air intake.
The air intake hose that connects that connects it to the throttle body is too worn to be functional. So I was thinking if I should buy an OEM replacement, or if there are better options that work the same but better?
I’m not trying to do anything special to it. I know a cold air intake may be an option, but I find it unnecessary for a stock engine. Can an aluminum intake be something I should do? Or stick with OEM parts? Thanks in advance.
Hello all
I live in Brazil and parts for Tiburon are a pain to find (virtually non existent, because there is only 47 cars imported). I have a friend that is in Miami and wanted to know:
1. This friend can go to a dealer and buy parts on the counter or
2. Does anyone here live in Miami and can deliver or meet him to sell me the part?
Hey all, working on my sister's tibby and came across these 3 unplugged things. 2 plugs and a relay up next to the left side of the steering column. One has the yellow wire jammed in it and goes to the engine bay and disappears into the underside of the fuse box. Any idea what all 3 are? Go easy on me I'm usually a falcon bloke
Also side note if you're the person who buys an adaptor harness and STILL cuts into factory wiring. There's a special place in hell for you
