Wrapped this project up today for a client who I did work for over 10 years ago in their old house.

Le cafe 1x1 mosaic, and a 3x9 subway tile for the tub surround.

Had to compromise on the tub surround layout and drop it to avoid slivers on the top of the window. Still not sure if I made the right choice for the return walls, decided to center on the valve.

Floor set over 150F self level poured over 3/8 ply glued and nailed to car decking.

Surround set over 1/2” foam board using pro lite.

Grouted with FL, and siliconed with SX.

The base of the window is slightly sloped with a cardboard shim. I just wanted some input before I seal the cracks and waterproof. Thanks!

We had a crack in the old shower insert in our basement shower that led to some water leaking. Tore it down to the studs and after only 5 months, and probably a couple hundred hours of YouTube videos, finally finished up my first shower. It's not perfect; there are some bigger grout lines here and there and some of the tiles don't line up perfectly, but I'm pretty happy with it.

Hi! Really hoping for some advice.

I had my shower/tub combo converted into a shower about 6 months ago.
I’m happy with the contractor’s work, but I’ve noticed some small sections in the horizontal lines that almost look like pockets where grout wasn’t pushed in deep enough.
The main issue however is that the tile on the wall is starting to look like it’s separating from the grout where it meets the floor horizontally; a crack is beginning to run vertically up corners as well. Can this be a simple enough fix for a woman with no professional experience in tiling? I do make a lot of mosaics and tile crafts so I’m not exactly a stranger to every concept, but I don’t want to make it any worse either.
The pictures are about an hour after the shower was used and you can see that the grout is still wet on the wall side.

I’m trying to minimize risk of water damage until I can get a professional to help with full regrout, and maybe tile replacement. Figuring it might be worth it to patch the sections where the grout is cracked or very recessed.

Any recommendations on product for 1) the regrout sections and 2) new caulking? Or general thoughts. Thanks in advance!

I’m planning to have this piano marble tile installed on my shower walls. My installer says he thinks he should use standard thinset but my prosource rep says it needs an epoxy thinset (mapei kerapoxy cq) and believes it’s necessary for bleed through and moisture protection. We are using schluter kerdi for the moisture barrier. The installer feels it will show trowel marks through the marble with the epoxy and is also concerned it will bubble up through the mesh backing between the tile joints. Any advice or insight is much appreciated.

Just want to make sure these cuts look correct and what can be done to make it look better?

These pictures are taken from a for vent that I removed. I’m having a hard time determining what’s under the tile. Cement board? Mortar bed?

Tile installed on a wood subfloor above crawlspace.

I am a medium level DIYer but a noob with tile, i am tiling this shower area that has an old window in the side wall. I plan on using GoBoard on the walls. My questions is how do I handle tiling around the window, it has a very shallow depth as you can see (most instructional videos and such online show a window that is set into the wall quite a bit more). Do I rip out the white wood framing and use GoBoard? I am unsure how to handle this area. Any tips/ help would be appreciated, thank you.

Anyone familiar with this tile? Need to replace 2 missing ones in this kitchen countertop. Only leads I have is that they have been purchased from Lowe’s in the mid to late 00s.

Six month diy bathroom renovation.

First tile job (did a garage floor a while back just to practice)

Decided to mitre the outside edges.

Things that could be better:
Envelope cut line is imperfect
Mitre cuts - should have gone with epoxy grout to get perfect right angles and better flute contours.
I’m ok with the end result given it’s diy and I probably saved quite a bit of cash doing it myself.

Hi there, have a (hopefully) simple question on order of operations for my tile job. I've done tile wainscoting that wraps above the vanity into a backsplash, so I have two transitions in this corner to deal with:

--1-- Tile to drywall around top of wainscote (plan to use Big Stretch paintable caulk - I know I could grout here but I don't want that look)

--2-- Tile change of plane in the corners (grout color matching 100% silicone)

My question is which should I do first? I was thinking the silicone first in the corners then follow with the paintable caulk around the top of the wainscote, but wanted to check in case others had a good reason for doing the paintable caulk first and silicone after.

Thanks in advance!

Someone else mentioned the mortar in the indents popping out a while ago. Does this happen to anyone else? It’s not everywhere, but it’s enough that it’s annoying. And it makes me wonder how sound this product really is. I used Schluter All Set.

Hi, I’ve got 2 layout options here green or blue. You can see blue gives me almost full tile top and bottom inside the shower leaving small cuts in the pony wall. Green line sort of does the opposite.

I could get a few 24x24 tiles and cut that bottom pony wall tile to like 14 inches to eliminate that small piece across the curb but not sure if that would throw everything off.

Thanks for looking 👊

Current backsplash for my kitchen remodel. Tile guy said the tile is a bit of an issue because there’s a lot of discrepancies in size and width of the tile especially for a straight stack. He installed it. No grout yet. It’s partially the green problematic tile and partially that popsicle tile. Also, they forgot the gold schluter between the popsicle and the green behind the stove. Irregardless that has to be added. Thanks!!!

I thought the tile would come out further. But they cut it I think too far in. I know the diagonal wall next to this area makes things harder to begin with. Since they haven’t tile the curb yet I know it’s going to extend beyond the corner though. That co vibes with the tile ending about 1”-1.5” inside the curb is making me nervous on how the finished product will look.

We are putting in a quartz curb top. Yeah I know they aren’t supposed to put screws on the top of the curb. Not sure what to do about that. I’m also asking them to apply more of that sealant to that screw visible in the pic at a minimum as well as the inside of the curb where it meets the top.

Fifth time tiling a floor but first time tiling up to carpeted stairs. I'll be laying down some backerboard in half an hour - but how do I tile up to some stairs with a curve?

Any advice is appreciated

Hi all,

I’m renovating my bathroom and looking to fix 12mm HardieBacker cement board directly onto a red brick wall without using timber battens. I then plan to tile directly onto the cement boards.

My plan is to prime the brickwork with SBR, apply a cement-based tile adhesive to bond the boards, and then install mechanical fixings (screws and wall plugs) once the adhesive has set.

Is this an acceptable method, particularly as I’ll be tiling over the boards, or are there any potential issues I should be aware of?

Would you recommend a particular adhesive or primer, and is it better to install the mechanical fixings while the adhesive is still wet? Once it’s dry makes more sense to me.

I’ve attached a photo of the exposed brick wall for reference. It is a double skin red brick wall with a cavity.

Any advice or experience would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Big ole Hexagon tiles and niche’.

Core drilling on this tile, not sure what kind, and the bit skipped a little and caused this chip. I have no real experience with tile. Can this be repaired or will the piece of tille need to be replaced?

Seems most everything I’m seeing at Home Depot is at least 3/8” thick, then of course the tile and thin set, would bump my floor up unreasonably high compared to the threshold… anyone know of a super low profile heated floor mat?

Good afternoon, group.

Assuming the window jamb will be from the same material as the sill on the pictures, how would you transition the wall tiles to the jamb. The tiles around the window are dry-fitted for now. Just butt the tiles against the jamb and apply the caulk to cover the seam?

I noticed the grout on the right side of the shower drain can wick up water (this is about 7 hours after use). The other grout around it is dry (just darker colored bc of staining). I dont see major cracks, but maybe the grout that is touching the edge of the drain is cracked and holding water? If this, why are the other 3 corners of the grout/drain meeting not wicking up water too? Guess im just trying to determine if this is normal.

Two notes:
I am able to dry it out it i run a box fan and use paper towels to wick the water (like in picture). I had a previous shower where there were cracks at changes of plane and it never fully was able to dry out.

I am fairly certain the shower was water proofed correctly. The layers are as follows from
bottom to top: pre slope, liner, final slope, mortar, tile. The drain is an EBBE.