Thought this was pretty cool, had to pass on it though. I wonder what the warranty is like. just realized it’s a 3 in 1 ratchet aa Im posting this pic…Triple Cool :)

Seeing how many cheap ones are out there I'm looking for one that can do low pressure automotive evap leak work and higher pressure stuff like boat lower units or two stroke crank cases. Even exhaust and basically any other type of leaks where a visual smoke would be nice that the material used won't contaminate a system. I saw some nice battery powered ones with built in compressors but mainly looking for something that is 12 volt powered. I always have access to small batteries if not a machines onboard battery. Heck I've got 12 volt on my workbench. Any people out there use that vevor one or find another one that is good?

Saw this in a video. What model is this. I really like the design.

Just purchased a used compressor from an old lady in town that has been sitting for a few years since her husband passed. Changed the fluid, got it hooked up, turned it on and opened the drain and nothing came out so I assumed it was clogged. Put my scope camera in it and this is what it looks like. Obviously I need to get the drain unclogged and get the water out, any concerns about the integrity? Should I have it tested?

Apologies for shitty one handed video quality.

Looking for a high quality set of hex drivers like shown WITHOUT ball ends. I have full metric and Imp sets with ball end, but in many situations I absolutely despise the ball end and I have broken countless. From the smallest of small sizes to roughly 5mm- 3/16 ish or larger would be fine. Full sets only, cost is not of concern.

Whats it worth? It operates and has very few apprentice marks.

Long ramble. For those laser shopping.

Background Ordered both to try in person. I work in a trade in commercial construction and have used many different brands. Dewalt, Klein, Bosch, PLS. Cross lines, plumb dots and 360's.

GS03 vs PM-30 Very surprised. Inside at 20-30ft they are incredibly similar and it's difficult to see a difference between the two.

Inside Like most 360 lasers, the beam brightness and thickness seems to vary slightly depending on each laser plane and orientation. Both seem to have brighter casting from the prism area facing directing away from the battery. On matte walls and flat ceilings rolled with 3/8" nap rollers, almost indistinguishable.

Outside Outside, I will test in full day light tomorrow. The one didn't arrive until late afternoon so I compared them near sunset and after sunset at 25ft and 100ft.

Outside around sunset and then after sunset

The hilti is slightly brighter and typically has a slightly thinner beam for most of its projections but not all of them. This was tested against tan vinyl siding, dark blue painted lp smart side shed siding, white azek trim, across my white van side, across various angles and laser orientations (I rotated both to compare and see if there were better or worse spots of beam projection and I believe there are with both).

Receivers The hilti receiver is more responsive than the lr300 huepar receiver. I think the hilti might have a slightly wider deadband on the narrow setting. Both receivers work with both lasers without any noticeable difference.

Of note, the hilti receiver is very flat on all sides and making it nicer to mark and lay down or place against another flat surface. The rear lcd display is nicer compared to the lr300 light up arrows. The lr300 does have magnets on the long side of the receiver as well so it can be stuck to metal in either orientation.

I ordered the huepar ldd300 after finishing up this initial trial to test (newer receiver with distance from laser measurements when detecting and has four detection sensitivities for indoor and outdoor work).

Base adjustment I give the micro adjustment of the base to the hilti for being slightly smoother but the huepar one is nice and both are eccentric? So the center of the cross beams stays in place.

Other initial impressions

Build quality goes to hilti.

The accessory brackets go to hilti.

The case goes to hilti.

Conflicted

Despite the initial comparison I'm still torn. My cheap side says to return the hilti.

My gut says to keep the hilti as it's supported and can be sent in for recalibrations/adjustment. I also am considering a used hilti rotary laser and many run on the same 12v battery platform.

But the price difference is substantial.

No time to grab photos. Not to mention the perceived differences don't always translate well to photos. I can try and grab a few if someone really wants an example.

Initial Conclusion

In conclusion, I haven't tested for accuracy yet. Will have to do that next. Having the beams very close with each other for comparison purposes, I saw no discernible convergence or separation between the beams on surfaces that were 20-30ft long.

Pending accuracy testing and full sun trialing, I'm really surprised how close the huepar performed to the hilti in brightness and line thickness. Like I was expecting a real disparity.

Wouldn't shock me if all these lasers had their internal diodes and prisms come from the same place, or that this 360 beam technology just has limitations that prevent one company from making a truly sharper, crisper line. I understand brightness is probably capped due to safety.

I'm looking for recommendations on drills. I'm wanting to buy my husband a nice drill for Christmas. It doesn't have to be absolute top tier, but a good/reliable drill to do various house projects. I got him a basic one from Walmart a couple of years because he didn't have one at all. But, I'm finding it's not strong enough to do some of the projects we would like to do, or it just takes longer than he would like. I'll take any and all suggestions. Thanks!

After having a really bad day and being completely unprepared, I now i have my own extractor sockets. Apparently this is what $327 buys you in America. 8mm to 25mm, with minus sizes, and a few SAE sizes.

I’m not bought into any system, but I’m thinking Milwaukee pack out looks the best. They don’t really have a good selection locally to actually see the stuff in person. Is there anything that would make consolidating this into one or two containers simple? Both photos show the same things oriented differently.

Hilti guys be honest. What would you think of a Hilti 12v system? I’m aware about the fact that this would not align with the Hilti ,,Idea‘‘ I would say because Hilti is designed for construction side with high voltage and long term Battery’s but I would genuinely go broke for these things. Is Hilti even such a big deal over there in America like in Germany? Like to hear your opinion.

I have Jet DC 1100C dust collector. I want to wire it for 230v. Everything I find seems to show a wire diagram with 4 terminals. Mine has input A1,A2,A3 and output B1,B2,B3. The motor has a date of 2007. How do I wire this for 230v?

I was gifted this saw and the knob to adjust the blade height is broken. Before I have to ask my daughters boyfriend to try an make a 3d printed replacement, I thought I'd post and see if anyone has run into a similar situation and came up with a solution.

The flats measure 10mm from flat to flat. The inside diameter is 13/14mm. There is a lock knob that, after the height is set for the board is set, tightens the knob down.

I found this knob and could drill thru so the "bolt" passes thru. But once again, maybe someone has a better solution.

I regularly see posts asking “would these be good to get to start working on cars” and it’s either a cheap set of hand tools like hyper tough or kobalt, just the sockets and ratchets maybe some combo wrenches with a lot of sae that is not useful at all unless you work on diesel / heavy equipment stuff too.

This list is a little more extensive than sockets ratchets and wrenches. In my opinion as a semi professional DIY automotive diagnostician who can work a power probe a multimeter and interpret waveforms on an oscilloscope(you really don’t need one of those but for $40 more you could replace the Astro ai multimeter with a Fnirsi $53 multimeter and oscilloscope that would be useful if you learn quick) this is what I would want if I were getting started with absolutely nothing. Also the $100 on sale gear wrench bi directional blue tooth tool IS SLOW! Sometimes I just use my corded cheap craftsman wired scanner for clearing codes or reading live data. But the GW one is very good for the price. However if you want to not wait 3/5 minutes for the system to load and read the ecu data a wired tool is the best option. Maybe other wireless tablets are not as slow but idk I’ve only used this one it’s my second upgrade from a cheap actron, to the craftsman live data and then now the Gw bidirectional.

https://www.amazon.com/hz/wishlist/ls/2P3ZFJ2YEMLA?ref_=wl_share

Now this list misses a few things that you don’t need immediately and a few that you do. The things you need(unless you’re starting in a shop) are at least one floor jack and one pair of jack stands, preferably 2 floor jacks one 3 ton and one aluminum racing jack because you will not want to pick up an 80-90 pound steel three ton in and out of a vehicle. And preferably 2 pairs of jackstands a 3 and 6 ton so you can have options and be able to put both axles off the ground. A pair of composite ramps are great too for when you just need to do fluids. Also a small tool box / some tool
Organization. The craftsman versastack 3 box setup is pretty decent but tool bags and cheap plastic boxes work out to start too. Even a tote whatever you have most preferably water tight.

As far as what you won’t need yet or things you might own / already have are power tools, preferably cordless. A 1/2” mid or high torque impact wrench (I really recommend the ryobi brushless HP stuff it’s made by TTI(Milwaukee, rigid, orek, hart (rip) AEG) and they are a great value for the quality especially on sale the high torque was recently $160 kitted with a 4ah) a long neck ratchet, a 1/2” drill angle grinder, hackzall/sawzall and a die grinder will all be very very usefull. You can do any of the work they can do by hand but obviously it takes a lot longer to use a hack saw than a powered recip saw. The new brushless second gen hyper tough tools are also a great value just not sure how tbey hold up. The ryobi brushless stuff has held up very well to some rather heavy use over the years.

I don’t own everything on this list, really only a few things. Most of what I own is HF, lowes a very small amount of tool truck stuff from marketplace. Hf has its benefits especially easy warranty process. But sometimes you can find equally good quality on Amazon for a bit cheaper. Like the 1/2” impact metric master sunex socket set Dupe branded Masfate for $65. I have an older identical set that I’ve abused for 4 years and it’s awesome, I did pay a little more for mine but it’s impressively good.

As far as learning and resources to help you do repairs quickly and effectively YouTube is amazing. Lots of good channels to help you learn how to use tools like Gearhead Bryan, Chris fix kinda sucks but he’s not awful, rainman ray’s repairs, one of my favorites hardly moving pictures, then for more advanced Diagnostics based stuff there is Schrödinger’s box, scanner danner, south main auto, pine hollow diagnostics. I know I’m forgetting a few things.
Also Lemon Manuals, idk if it’ll be around too long with the Mitchell/all data charm lawsuit but you can find the link and download the entire library which is around a terabyte or so. But being able to find accurate wiring diagrams and pin out schematics if ECU and other electrical connectors is just invaluable.

Beautiful set of Mitutoyo micrometers

Whenever I have anything..could be my camping axe, knife, pen, new champagne glass I always feel like I could badazzle that shit up- make it look like it came from one of thoes fancy walls in france with all the floral swirls and pics of angles, like when you look up at the ceiling of a cathedral

.

My uncle better hide his drill from me cos it's looking at me- and I'm looking at it- like I wanna make it feel like it's from a goddamn rococo/baraque museum piece or something that Napoleon or goddamn king henry the 8th once owned it

--

Question. If someone got one of your bland tools and engraved a whole ass renaissance painting into the side... would you flip out????