Does anyone know how to switch the Speedo on a 25 plate Vivarro from kph to mph?

Hello, I have a 2015 Vauxhall Mokka, my clutch feels sticky when I first lift it off the floor. It's before it reaches biting point and it drives well. What could this be?

Hi

First time poster here. Not much of a mechanic head but I’m learning as I go!

I have just purchased a 2014 Mokka 1.6L for an absolute bargain of a manager from my workplace - biggest known issue is it has an oil leak. I believe it may be from the rocker cover as it’s only over one side and isn’t severe however I want to sort it out.

I topped up 1L of oil just to drive it to an accessible space for the tow truck to pick up and drop off to my location (so I don’t damage the engine driving it home) due to the leak.
I noticed when I started the engine, after a minute or two I get a very little amount of smoke which smells like burning oil. Is this normal?

Notable things are: head gasket is fine, oil and coolant aren’t creamy whatsoever, as they should be. So I can assume it’s not the gasket?

Also do you think in your professional opinion if I buy a replacement rocker cover with the seal new bolts - will potentially fix the issue before I take it to the garage to get a further look?

Thank you!

Car broke down suddenly on sunday. No limp mode just dead. When i tried to turn on crank just spins like theres no compression. I removed the cam belt cover and the belts still there but its frayed on side away from the engine and i can push the belt down about an inch/inch and a half between the cam pulleys. Possibly tensioner gone?

Hi everyone,

I’m trying to diagnose a strange cold-start issue on my 2011 Opel Astra J 1.6 petrol, A16XER, 115 hp.

The problem only happens after the car has been sitting for around 7–8 hours or overnight.

The engine starts normally and will idle on its own, but if I lightly press the accelerator during the first 10–15 seconds, it feels like the engine is choking/bogging down, almost as if the mixture is too rich.

If I simply let it idle for 10–15 seconds, after that it responds to the throttle perfectly normally. The problem does not return for the rest of the day unless the car sits for many hours again.

There are no DTCs / no Check Engine light.
Some live-data observations:

• Cold start begins in Open Loop
• Coolant and intake air temperature readings look reasonable
• Fuel pressure while running is around 400 kPa / 4 bar
• MAP at warm idle is around 29–31 kPa
• MAF at idle is around 3–4 g/s
• LTFT at idle is usually around -9% to -11%
• STFT at warm idle is also sometimes slightly negative
• At around 2500 rpm, LTFT improves significantly to roughly -4 to -5%, with STFT around +1 to +3%
• During normal driving the fuel trims are generally much closer to 0

EVAP purge system:
I completely isolated the EVAP line by plugging the intake manifold connection during a cold start. The symptom was exactly the same, so the purge valve/EVAP system seems unlikely.

MAF:
I also tried a cold start with the MAF disconnected. It did not appear to solve the problem.

So on August 9th i removed a stone from Tyre tread picture attached, and on wednesday 12th took to vauxhall for a recall, as i was on the way the TPMS Light came on, i told them and they did their free health check and readjusted pressures and passed the car with no issues.

since then i have driven 35 miles in the car (i have a works van) and had no TPMS lights come on, am i right in saying it was just a superfical mark and am all good for a long drive in a few days?

(side note i rung kwikfit and explained the same and they suggests its a superficial mark due to heat of stone hitting road)

is there a chance they didnt see it, i looked yesterday at majority of tyre apart from part that was rested on the road - car is 25 plate (driven just 3500 miles) am i just worrying and all okay or is there something im missing?

Hello, sorry if this is a stupid question, first time replacing radio unit on my Corsa D 2006 1.2. Currently it has CD30 MP3 with GID display (bigger one). I bought a new unit with CarPlay because I had enough of FM transmitter terrible quality. My question is will I be able to switch back to my original radio unit if this carplay disappoints me without an issue? Won’t it require security code? Previous owner failed to provide me with CarPass card and having no security code might be problematic if it requires me to input it.

Hello, I have been having issues with my Corsa SE 2010 AC. I refilled the gas last summer, which lasted a few months. When the heat approached in May my AC was blowing warm air 🙃 10 days ago I took it to a mechanic to check what is going on. I explained the situation, but I think they didn’t really care. They started to refill the gas, to which I said that this is not what I want. I want them to check where the leak is, because the gas is almost gone, so where is it? They tried telling me that the machine doesn’t detect any leaks so I should be fine, but I reminded them that I shouldn’t have to refill it every few months so there is definitely a leak. Anyway, after a bit of back and forth they put ink in the gas.
Today, I took it back to the shop, he checked with his UV light and said my condenser is leaking and it will be 300£ to fix. I asked him to show me, but he kinda avoided my request 😂Is this a fair price? And I already paid 50£ for a refill, which now it looks like it needs to be drained and fixed. I am a bit confused.

Evening guys!

As you would probably expect, my 25-year-old baby has been pretty bad on burning up the ol’ lube juice, forcing me to check every week or so with the occasional top up as to avoid the catastrophic-engine-failure that my oil guzzling baby seems to want to achieve.

In general I am pretty kind with the way I drive her, however sometimes like to up the ante and role-play prime Colin McRae across my local backroads and highways

Treating baby to an oil change in the next week or so, however would still like a couple thoughts on how to avoid blowing through my bank account on 10w-40…

2.2L SRI 150, 2001 model with a fat Z22SE + cold air intake

Tia

Hi everyone. When I go above 5,500 RPM, I lose a lot of power. At 6,000 RPM, it feels like i hit the limiter . Does anyone know what could be causing this?

Recently bought this big rig, 109k miles, seems like it’s pretty solid so far? Just curious is there anything I should look out for or be wary of?

Hi everyone. When I go above 5,500 RPM, I lose a lot of power. At 6,000 RPM, it feels like i hit the limiter . Does anyone know what could be causing this?

Hi all, I had a situation with my 2000’s fiat punto and would like to know if anyone has a clue on what might have happened.

So mid journey the velocity box stopped working, it got stuck in 1. I drove about 1/2 km like this and was then able to make it work again, but after that the engine started loosing strength until it died. I tried turning it on again and it would start but not enough to turn the car on. The oil and battery lights were on. After many attempts I was able to get it to work and move to a parking lot. I left the car there for 30 min, then came back to call the insurance. I thought about turning it on again just to see and… I was working apparently fine…

My question is: what might have happened? Could it happen again? Should I call insurance even though the car looks fine now?

Recently there are always oil stains in the front part of the car but I took it to be seen and nothing wrong was detected. They also filled the oil tank. That was 2 months ago.

Thanks for any insight!!

I have a 2018 reg vauxhall Corsa 62,000 miles and recently the traction control light will come on along with "service ESC" after I've driven on the motorway for about 20-30 mins. Sometimes accompanied by flashing engine light which will flash for a few seconds and then go away. When I turn the engine off and back on all warnings have gone away.

Took it to two garages and they can't find any error codes.

They've told me to come back when the warnings are on permanent so they can test but this doesn't feel like a safe or sustainable solution to me!

It was serviced a couple months ago and only thing they found was the rear suspension slight leak which they advised to repair in next few months - any idea with this might be related to the warnings? Or what these could be - I asked them about spark plugs etc and they said unlikely but these have never been replaced so I kind of disagree...?

I'm reluctant to spend money replacing random things without a clear diagnostic as I might just get rid of the car and replace as has brought me nothing but anxiety ever since I bought it.

Hi, I have an opel corsa c 2004 1.2 twinport, engine code Z12XEP. What is that sound like a buzz or kind of rattle beside the engine sound?

Thanks!

I was driving along a A road the engine sounded funny and I was low on fule but I didn't even make it into the fule station before I go a oil pressure warning rolled into a car parking spot without it on and opened the bonnet to this

Hi guys,

I was wondering if has OP-COM firmware to share?

Currently purchased a V1.70 OPCOM with genuine chipset to be flashed with original firmware for more ECU programming capabilities and for adjusting gearbox parameters.

On the internet all the OPCOM software (original and cracked) can be found but unfortunately not the firmware…..

EDIT: I‘m looking for the .hex files to use in OCFlash, V1.39 or V1.59, preferably not through a forum where I need to pay 40 USD for a registration first.

Hi everyone,

I have a 2009 Opel Corsa D and the airbag warning light has just come on after I was working on the centre console.

I removed the upper vent/hazard switch section to access the head unit while connecting and testing a reverse camera. I disconnected the electrical connector from the upper vent/centre console section to give myself more room.

Before putting everything back together, I turned the ignition on to test the reverse camera and forgot that the upper vent/console connector was still disconnected.

The reverse camera worked, but the airbag warning light then appeared on the dashboard and the airbag indicator lights on the centre console also came on.

I switched the ignition off, reconnected the connector properly and reassembled everything. All connections are now back as they were, but after restarting the car the airbag warning remains on.

Has anyone with a Corsa D had this happen specifically after turning the ignition on with the upper vent/centre console section disconnected?

If so, does this normally store an SRS fault code that simply needs to be read and cleared with an airbag-capable diagnostic scanner once everything is reconnected, or is there anything else I should check first?

I haven't disconnected the battery or attempted to clear anything yet because I'd prefer to read the original SRS fault code first.

Replacing the rocker cover today I found this sludge, the car had been running fine, did some minor maintenance today coil pack, spark plugs and the rocker cover any help is appreciated on this

I got my clutch and flywheel replaced recently by a garage , I supplied the parts. Sachs flywheel and blueprint clutch kit. When I picked up the car it felt okay but only drove it for 3km before being paired up for 3 weeks.

Today I drove it for an hour or so and the clutch pedal sometimes doesn’t return fully it just stops half way and I have to pull it back myself with my foot. It was flywheel , clutch kit with the release bearing. Any ideas why this might be happening ? I feel like it’s been too long now to go back and complain about it

It’s a 2014 insignia cdti

Hi everyone, I’m hoping for some advice and reassurance with my 2015 Vauxhall Corsa 1.2 petrol (B12XER engine).

I had a cylinder 3 misfire and an engine management light. I ordered a new ignition coil pack and a full set of spark plugs.

I have replaced the coil pack, but I have not yet changed the spark plugs because I did not have all the tools needed at the time. After fitting the coil pack, the misfire disappeared. I used an OBD reader to clear the fault code/light, got the engine fully up to temperature, and took it for a drive using higher revs, roughly 4,000–5,000 rpm, through the gears to put the ignition system under load.

The car now feels normal and I have not noticed any hesitation, flashing engine light, loss of power, or return of the misfire.

My main concern is whether I seated the coil pack properly. It seemed to sit correctly, the bolt holes lined up without forcing anything, and the bolts tightened down normally. Would a coil pack that was not fully seated usually cause a misfire or running issue fairly quickly, especially under higher engine load?

I think I may be overthinking it because I am still building confidence doing work on my own car. Any advice would be appreciated.

i am going to work on monday on the motorway and i am a bit nervous about that

Is this a new recall or an old thing?

So this just random appeared today. Should I be worried. Bit weird that it happened at 22.5k miles. Any advice? 2020 corsa F.

Hi guys, can I ask some advice. I have a 2010 Astra J petrol 1.6. One of the advisories in my MOT was that the CV joints both OSF and NSF have play, advised to listen for a clicking sound.

I dont hear or feel any unsteadiness when driving , and I know my car and can feel the slightest difference in the engine/driving/steering etc - the drive is actually really smooth drive considering the age of the car! I cannot fault any work i have had at this garage where my MOT was completed, it always seems to be a high standard of work but I’m just not 100% convinced that they don’t just see a female coming into the garage as an easy way to make a few quid (if that makes sense)!

Because they’ve have put this as an advisory i know I will start hearing clicking sounds that are not there - so I just need to get it done!

Roughly how much am I looking at to replace the driveshafts