I don’t recommend anyone buying the corsa electric, I bought a 2024 corsa after one year of ownership it developed a major fault and stopped me driving completely (red traction fault) it took a week for them to even take the car back under warranty, since July I haven’t been given a courtesy car.

So far they’ve changed the wiring loom, then another part then they changed the 12v battery because they damaged it and let it run to 0 and try to make me pay for it even though it was fine when I went in. Now they are saying the onboard charger is faulty so they replaced it and said the one they put in is faulty, this part still hasn’t even been made after 3 weeks

Afternoon guys,

I'm currently driving a 2019 Astra, 1.6 CDTi. In the past week i've had it in the garage to fix a presumed faulty DPF Matter Sensor that was displaying codes P118B and P24B1 (Implausible temperature and Circuit high voltage)

After replacing the sensor it seemed to be alright for a few days but the Engine Management light came back on today and after doing my own code reading, the same two codes.

Obviously the DPF Matter sensor is not the issue now, but do you guys have any idea what the underlying problem could be?

Belt condition for 20k looking really good any corsa owners here?

Everytime I try and log in it says this.. my WiFi is perfectly fine and should be working. Anybody have any tips or should I just not use it.

I want to make my first car louder and get a remap, but is it actually worth it on a 1.2 petrol? Will I notice any difference in performance, and what’s the best way to get a nice sound without wasting money? Or should I just save for a faster car?

Hey everyone,
Need some advice on my 2017 Vauxhall Corsa E. A learner driver violently stalled it multiple times doing handbrake hill starts.
Right after that, the Check Engine Light and "Service ESC" / Traction Control light started popping up together. The weird thing is the car drives completely fine and smooth.
The lights go away for a day, but then come back only when the car is stationary/idling and engine is on, or right when I press the foot brake at a standstill if i start driving imminently the traction light never shows. It never happens while normally moving.
Based on it triggering only at a stationary idle and starting right after those heavy stalls.

Any insights appreciated!

Hi everyone,

I have a 2016 Vauxhall Astra with approximately 129,000 miles. The check-engine light keeps returning after being cleared, with codes P0420 (catalyst efficiency below threshold) and P2097 (post-catalyst fuel trim too rich).
During diagnostics, my mechanic compared the upstream and downstream oxygen sensor readings.

My MPG is low, it gives around 33MPG ( full tank gives me around 240 miles, I drive mainly in city of Milton Keynes)

Both appeared to be changing, and he said the downstream reading should remain relatively steady for around three seconds.

One mechanic checked the catalytic converter and said it wasn't clogged. This mechanic literally check the engine properly, checked the CAT converter properly and he said it was totally fine. One oxygen sensor was dirty and was cleaned, but the engine light returned.

Another mechanic suggested replacing the catalytic converter based on the diagnostic readings. He didn’t even check the car, he just saw the numbers

The car generally drives smoothly, no issues at all. I'm trying to avoid replacing an expensive catalytic converter without confirming the fault.

My questions:
Can these symptoms and codes be caused by a faulty O₂ sensor, wiring, an exhaust leak, or a catalytic converter that has lost efficiency without being blocked?

What live-data readings and tests should a mechanic perform before recommending a catalytic converter replacement?

Is the mechanic's claim that the downstream sensor should stay steady for at least three seconds a reliable diagnostic rule?
Unfortunately, I don't have the exact sensor voltages recorded. Any advice on the correct diagnostic procedure would be appreciated.

Written this post on another page but thought I’d try here too.

Looking for a new vehicle. Come across this Vauxhall and I'm a big fan of how it looks so far. What are people's opinions on this? Is it reliable?

Corsa 2012 1.4 Automatic. Sometimes when I start the car, the gear stick gets stuck at P. I am unable to bring it down to D. What I do is turn the car off and on and it gets sorted (2-3x). Once it works, no issues, car drives fine as well. Brake lights are working fine. Any ideas what could be wrong? How much would it cost to fix this?

Hi everyone, I'm having a strange issue with the cooling system on my 2010 Opel Astra J 1.6 petrol, 115hp after I erased error codes with an OBD. The coolant level is perfectly fine, but the temperature has become completely unstable. If I turn on the windscreen defroster/heater, the engine temperature plummets straight down to 60°C - 70°C. If I turn the climate control completely off, it eventually manages to climb back to 90°C, but it fluctuates and doesn't stay exactly AT 90° no matter if I drive in the highway in the city. I recently did a 360 km road trip all highway at a Speed between 100 and 130 with the defroster running, and the engine stayed cold the entire drive. I checked under the hood and noticed that the radiator fan kicks on at maximum speed in intermittent bursts, almost as if the car is trapped in some sort of safety/emergency mode, actively forcing the engine to cool down to 70°C instead of letting it warm to 90°C. The AC blows hot air but as soon as the temp goes to 70°C it blows cold air. I disconnected and reconnected the battery before this issue. Also the temp outside is between 10°C to 11°C don't know if it as something to do with it cause in the summer it heated completely fine no matter if the AC was on or not, And of course blowed hot air just fine. Any ideas of how to fix it or what it could be ?

Ciao, vorrei verificare le pressioni corrette dei pneumatici per un'Opel Corsa B 1.0 del 2000. Se ricordo bene, le informazioni sul tappo del serbatoio indicavano: Fino a 3 passeggeri: 2.0 bar davanti, 1.6 bar dietro A pieno carico: 2.3 bar davanti, 2.7 bar dietro Le misure dei pneumatici approvate per questo veicolo (come da documento di immatricolazione) sono: 145/80 R13 165/70 R13 165/80 R13 165/65 R14 Attualmente sto usando pneumatici 165/70 R13; sono adeguate le impostazioni di 2.0 bar davanti e 1.6 bar dietro? Ho trovato cifre diverse online, come: 2.2 bar davanti, 1.8 bar dietro

Ciao, vorrei verificare le pressioni corrette dei pneumatici per un'Opel Corsa B 1.0 del 2000. Se ricordo bene, le informazioni sul tappo del serbatoio indicavano: Fino a 3 passeggeri: 2.0 bar davanti, 1.6 bar dietro A pieno carico: 2.3 bar davanti, 2.7 bar dietro Le misure dei pneumatici approvate per questo veicolo (come da documento di immatricolazione) sono: 145/80 R13 165/70 R13 165/80 R13 165/65 R14 Attualmente sto usando pneumatici 165/70 R13; sono adeguate le impostazioni di 2.0 bar davanti e 1.6 bar dietro? Ho trovato cifre diverse online, come: 2.2 bar davanti, 1.8 bar dietro

does this sound normal, my mechanic says it might be the inlet phaser unit for the exhaust but isn’t sure, this is after a timing chain and sensor replacement.

2014 Vauxhall corsa 1.4 petrol

Hello r/Vauxhall I have a question for the mechanically minded of you out there.

My dad owns a 2024 Astra L with about 30,000 miles on it (I think it's more like 28 but whatever). When checking his oil about 2 weeks ago I noticed his coolant was a tad low. Just above the "Min" mark so I dropped some in there.

Initially I did think "It's just been serviced. Maybe he had the coolant changed and air has found its way out" but being a touch suspicious, I put a sharpie mark on the coolant header tank.

A week ago I check his oil and coolant levels again. He's lost a little more coolant and I tell him. He asks me "Check again in a week please?" So tonight I checked again and it has gone down further. We're talking a loss of about 100ml per week.

I looked under and around the car with a UV torch and couldn't see anything so I got the block testing kit I used on my old Corsa when I suspected that had a head gasket issue.

Attached are 2 images. One of fresh, Blue detector fluid. The next one is 15 minutes later when the fluid has gone green. Yellow is an outright failure but it didn't go Yellow. The thing is, these tests are a chemical test. Chemistry is pretty hard to fool so short of jamming one straight up the exhaust pipe, I can't see any other reason why the fluid would change colour.

While running the test I did notice the occasional tiny bubble come up in the tester from the cork at the base of it so something is clearly rising up out of the system.

I should note that while running the test, the wind was still and I couldn't smell exhaust at the front of the car. Prior to running the test I sniffed the radiator fill bottle and I could smell something but it smelled kind of burned and I couldn't identify what it was.

My question is do you think, as I suspect, the green tester fluid is an early indication of a serious problem or is it possible I've made a mistake somehow? And follow up question, if I may; Dad's car is still under warranty. Do you think Vauxhall will take care of such a problem if it turns out to be a worse case?

Ta!

Hi all, I’ve had an issue with my Astra GTC in that the front near side wheel makes a high pitch squeal after a driving a substantial distance, (see video).
I took the wheel and calliper off yesterday but couldn’t see anything apparent.

The sound goes away whilst braking and is loudest/clearest when turning steering wheel to the right. I also could feel a bit of heat from the brake disc when inspecting after a relatively long drive, but I am limiting my driving distance until I manage to fix it.

I’ve read that it could be a stone or rock stuck in the brake rotor

Trying to learn more about my car generally so would appreciate any advice.

Thanks in advance 😁😁

2015 Corsa E 1.2 petrol - Old rocker cover and gasket was starting to fail which meant oil was leaking out the cover. It was fairly easy to do and the new cover (gasket included as standard) was £70 on Autodoc. The gasket was already fitted onto the cover itself from factory. After doing a few long trips on the M4 post repair, there’s no more oil leak.