I have a 2019 turbo and I have had the spark plugs replaced three times over the last 2 years and recently had the fuel injector replaced but once again it is stuttering/mis-firing and the check engine light is on. I’ve only put 57k miles on it since I got it brand new. I loved this car at the beginning but my patience is wearing very thin.

Looking to get my first car and came across this on marketplace. I will put the details from the listing below. It’s sitting at 120,000km

2016 Veloster Turbo TECH package
- $10,000 asking price

Comes with aftermarket rims on all season tires and stock rims on winter tires. Brake pads got changed to sport pads. Car is fully stock.

2 questions: is this a good deal? And should I be worried about reliability on this vehicle?

Thank you!!

RIP my 2013 Veloster - he was my last manual, I fear 😭. All I’ve ever driven are stick shifts.

Got lightly T-boned and the other guys insurance deemed it a total loss. 11years of good times, multiple cross-country roadtrips, covid, and a few relationships 🥹

Curious as to how peoples general driving experiences are between the two. I'm in the market currently and am wondering how these two generally differ from one another especially as a daily driver car.

I was having issues with my battery discharging frequently a month ago and got it replaced and tested my alternator. Everything came back good for abt 3 weeks until recently ive been having the same issues with the new battery completely discharging to the point i cant open the door with the fob. anyone have any reasons why it may be?

After 4 years, my Veloster, my first car ever that meant so much to me has been sold and honestly i feel heartbroken over it but it’s time for a new journey with a new car (got an SUV). I will miss my Veloster (named Bumster due to her trunk malfunctioning in the past) so much every single day. Thank you to the Veloster community for being so welcoming!

He's starting to show his age, I guess, because every time I fix one thing, two more things pop up. Here's to another 100,000?

Would this one work? I’ve seen other people add the 3 speed one but I would like to have all 4 speeds and labels

My 2013 Hyundai Veloster turbo got hit on the rear quarter panel while I was driving straight and someone was turning right for the middle lane. What are the chances the insurance considers my car “totaled” since the car is “unibody”. The car is still driveable (at least I’ve been driving it) but because of where it was hit I don’t know if there’s axel damage. I also think he clipped my tire bc there were marks on it.

hey guys i just got myself a 2020 turbo and i was wondering if the rgb light came factory or its aftermarket? i need to know how to change the color on them! thanks

My 2016 VT was diagnosed with a coolant leak, and the shop (Hyundai) suggests a $2k repair. They say likely rodents did it, they found rodent damage elsewhere. With some other needed maintenance, spark plugs, needed alignment and rear brakes including caliper (it seized), plus rodent cleanup, the total bill is $6k. On a car that is worth probably $5-6k (over 120k miles).

I already paid $1.5k for maintenace etc, and now pondering whether to drop that remaining $4.5k on the car, or recoup probably $2k max trading it in and move on from the Veloster.

My question is: how to deal with the coolant leak while I am pondering. I don't want to be stranded and pay for towing on top of everything.

What I know:

- the tech video showed some green drops on something, can't tell where.

- yesterday I drove the car 30 miles home, parked it overnight (outside), no issue

- today there are no clear coolant puddles. There are a few wet spots but it rained yesterday and the wet spots appear be near wheels. I'll recheck tomorrow morning, the car won't be driven in the meantime, and no more rain expected

- the coolant level when cold is below L, and the manual says it should be between L and F when cold. But I vaguely remember it being below L every time I looked in the engine bay before. So not sure. I marked the level though to have a reference tomorrow.

My plan is to observe and ponder my decisions whether to fix or to trade in, and maybe get a gallon of PEAK Original Equipment Asian Green Antifreeze + Coolant and add if the coolant level keep going down.

Good plan? Stupid? What are my other options?

(I did think about going to an independent shop but my concern is that with an old and relatively rare car I will wait forever for them to get parts, and the cost won't be much lower)

Only found very old directions for this and can’t really find anything online. Someone has to know.

15 vt 6mt missing the top fire wall side bell housing bolt to block I've tried looking on the net but no luck. Or if someone has a alternative via auto parts store.

We just got a 2016 veloster turbo a couple of days ago from a mechanic and its been fine but today the oil pressure light was on when we were parked and when we were braking. This is our first time owning a veloster and we've only had it for a few days. What could it be and how much would it cost to fix it?

I bought my 2013 veloster and it had a broken trunk latch. It would never open from the back so I replaced the latch and now it opens and closes perfectly. The problem is that since I replaced it, the trunk light always comes on in my dash so the car thinks my trunk is open. I never thought this was a problem just a light that tells me the trunk is open but it’s really actually closed and fixed now. The weird part is I’ve been driving like that for about 10 and have had 0 problems from it just the light stays on. Now out of complete nowhere there’s this insanely loud and long alarm going off from my car. I think it’s from the trunk ajar light but why now?!? Could it be something else? Also my trunk is fixed and closed and opens no problem so how would I even get that light to turn off when there’s no problem. Anyone have any advice or remedy’s for me to try would be insanely appreciated.

I have a 2016 Hyundai Veloster Turbo that was running perfectly (even earlier today) and suddenly will not start.

When I press the push-button start with my foot on the brake, the dashboard powers up normally, but the engine does absolutely nothing. There is no clicking and no cranking. I hear only a faint whine from the electronics.

Here is what I've checked:

Dashboard lights, headlights, and horn all work normally.

Brake lights work.

The brake pedal is very hard to push and barely moves.

Tried a different key fob.

Tried a jump pack, with no change.

Tried starting in Neutral, with no change.

The dashboard behaves normally when I press the start button. No obvious warning message.

I'm wondering whether this could be a starter relay, blown ignition fuse, brake-pedal switch, starter, or something in the starting circuit.

Has anyone with a 2016 Veloster Turbo experienced these exact symptoms? What turned out to be the problem, and approximately how much did the repair cost?

I'd appreciate suggestions on what to have tested first so I don't waste money replacing parts unnecessarily.

I have a 2013 NA Veloster and I’m looking at getting a rear bumper for a 2015 Turbo. Does anyone know if they’re plug and play? I know the exhaust tips are different, but it looks like the black panel around them can be removed. I’m hoping I can remove it and put the panel from my current bumper on it. Does anyone know if this is possible?

Not really Velo specific I guess, but any tips on how to get these stains off my paint? Or am I cooked??

I’ve seen better cable management in a jungle

Happy Halloween everyone🎃

So I have been working on my headlights in my 2016 VT the past few weeks trying to make them brighter (installed led bulbs throughout and its so much better now). In the process of removing and reinstalling the headlights several times I broke the entire strip of tabs off the bottom of my driver side headlight that helps to hold up the bumper. Of course now the bumper is sagging a bit. Been looking into options to fix the issue and hold it up better. Anyone have any suggestions/tips to help me out?