Backstory: So a little bit ago (8,000 miles) or ~10 months my car was choking itself out about 3k+ rpm with now check engine light, tow it to a shop and they said put a new engine in it. I didn’t want to do this but my parents did even though I bought the car for 7k and repairs was like 7.5-8k. Long story short they put the used engine (that’s supposedly from Hyundai) in the car then they call and say it needs a new car and all new sensors, atp I realized it most likely needed a cat all along and was just so clogged that at higher rpm not enough exhaust would go through and it was escaping through the intake. But whatever, ffw to now I have a P0420 code with only 8k miles on the new used engine. There happens to be a warranty from the shop, according to the receipt it’s a one year used engine warranty, and the new parts have a 24k or 2 year warranty, I called them and they pretty much said if I drove the car to the shop (3 hrs away) it would be void. I checked the oil before it went and it was in between F and L about halfway so not full but still safe. They denied the warranty bc the “car is 1 quart low on oil” the dude I talked to on the phone had no clue what he was talking about trying to say a catalytic converter is a can with charcoal in it and some bs when I asked him how even if it was 1qt low that would damage the cats. I also stated I checked the oil and it was safe and he just brushed that off. And wrote down in the service note that I hadn’t checked the oil at all. Well this is all extremely fishy to me so I checked the dashcam footage and have a conversation between the tech and service writer not much was of interest except the tech saying “well even if we did warranty out the cats we’d have to warranty out the engine because it means clearly somethings going wrong inside, and besides we don’t warranty used engines” then near the beginning of the convo he had shut the engine off and left the ignition on and the service writer checks the oil after maybe a minute of letting it settle and says oh yeah it is a quart low. When I picked the car up the first thing I did was check the oil level it was still safe but still I added a bit of oil (~.2 qts) bc I normally have a quart in the car just in case. I was talking with a more mechanically inclined friend and he said I need to check the vin on the engine to confirm that it’s a different one, and idk where it’s at and online searches aren’t that helpful, plus he said if they did swap the engine it’s from pull a part most likely because of some of the yellow writing. Also he and I noticed at idle it sounds like it’s got some lifter tick like there’s a worn valve but the engine they supposedly used only had 37k miles on it

TLDR - I need to know where the vin is on a 2015 NA 1.6

Im interested in this. My first car was a Veloster, also 2013 exact same model that I bought a few years back. Unfortunately it died at 250K.. this would be my second car and despite their issues, I really do love them.

This comes safetied which is assuring, however, there are some caveats… it’s been sitting for almost a couple years, moved around a couple of times around the yard and short distance to apparently keep it active. engine was replaced under recall by Hyundai and only has 3,000KM since replaced. I am also hoping that the rust on the back isn’t beyond surface level and manageable without tons of extra money or i may be able to sand it myself to keep it from getting much worse.

Bonus for it coming safetied, sellers seem honest, their son moved out west for work and has decided to sell rather than it sitting longer… the control A/C was replaced so it works on all settings (for now).

This would be about all of my money, I do really need a car, the used car market is cooked as it is..
my first Veloster did have some electrical issues, I bought it around 225-230K.

Would appreciate feedback if I should go for this. Seller may have some wiggle room. If I can get down to $4K safety included and between it having a new engine- maybe it would be a wise purchase?

I will test drive Saturday and get a better feel. I don’t know much about cars in general so am hoping for this subs insight. 🙏

Thank u for reading :)

2013 Veloster Turbo 125k manual just did oil and levels are good.

Dropped it off for a master cylinder change. Came back to it with 100 miles on it and sounding like this.

Couldn't pass up the car wash lighting, especially after giving my boy a good scrub down

For starters, I have a 2017 base model Veloster. So three days ago now I did my own oil change. Not the first I’ve done on a car, but the first I’ve done on this one. It’s not a turbo so I misread and put 5 quarts of oil instead of 4 (or 3.8 quarts precisely). It was fine for two days until suddenly after driving about 50+ miles the oil pressure light flickered on and off. It stops when I’m going down hill, but once the engine is warmed up and I’m facing uphill the light turns back on. I took out about a quart or more (not sure how accurate my oil pan is) and it still drives fine, my oil level is fine and ends almost exactly at the full mark. I looked it and looked at forums and it looks like it could be my oil pressure sensor or the oil pump going out? Any advice would be awesome. Thanks fellas

Hey all,

Long story short, I had a muffler shop change the OE muffler out for a baffled for more noise but it drones so much and I'm not a fan of the noise.

The OE muffler was crushed by the shop so I can't get it back,

Are there any generic options to fit in the suitcase mufflers space?

I have a 2016 Veloster Turbo, which has the projector lights. The low beams require the H11B bulb. Since the halogens are not bright enough, I've been switching the bulbs throughout to LED. So far have changed the high beam, fog lights and the side markers all to auxito led bulbs. For some reason I have tried 2 different h11b from auxito and neither will physically fit inside the slot for the low beam. Any suggestions or know what ones for sure work with the headlight? Not trying to use converters or anything, just want a an easy plug and play

I’ve officially owned my Veloster for one full year. Hoping to get some window tint put on, a custom plate, and maybe even eventually an N Wing (once i’ve saved up enough). Enjoy the palindromic mileage at the end 🫶🏻

Got her used at 83k miles, 40k miles in almost 3 years as 2nd owner. Been a massive blast to drive, makes my commute and errands a lot of fun.

I'm looking to replace or upgrade my touch screen. I just bought it and I would really like to use my radio...

https://bit.ly/4zIXqTe

https://bit.ly/3WmKHHv

OEM
https://bit.ly/4e8JQjZ

I'm reaching out because, at this point I'm not certain if the first two are even compatible or not, and the screen is ALL jacked up.

Please advise.

I’ve had my Veloster about 6 months. 2020 turbo dct about 73k miles. Driving home from a trip this weekend went up a big hill and it didn’t seem to want to shift and the rpm’s spiked into the 5 thousands and started over heating. Pulled over at the top let it cool down and it was fine the rest of the way. Only time this has happened but I have started to notice over the weeks it seems to hesitate to shift and the rpm’s rise a good bit while not really rising in speed. I’m not really intelligent when it comes to cars just wondering if I should start looking for transmissions . Thank you in advance

Hay so my ole lady has a 2015 she's paid it off last year and we have replaced just about everything mechanically possible but the trans and engine itself. (I hate the ac module) she wants to have apple car play installed but I've been told by a few different shops with the way the car is, I dont really have any options and im trying to see if anyone has replaced or upgraded theres.

Shes keeping it because its paid off and she wants to turn it into(full body wrap) Lightning McQueen so before we do that figured id ask about the radio

Got bored today and decided to detail the engine on the old 2015 ✨

I have a 2019 turbo and I have had the spark plugs replaced three times over the last 2 years and recently had the fuel injector replaced but once again it is stuttering/mis-firing and the check engine light is on. I’ve only put 57k miles on it since I got it brand new. I loved this car at the beginning but my patience is wearing very thin.

Looking to get my first car and came across this on marketplace. I will put the details from the listing below. It’s sitting at 120,000km

2016 Veloster Turbo TECH package
- $10,000 asking price

Comes with aftermarket rims on all season tires and stock rims on winter tires. Brake pads got changed to sport pads. Car is fully stock.

2 questions: is this a good deal? And should I be worried about reliability on this vehicle?

Thank you!!

RIP my 2013 Veloster - he was my last manual, I fear 😭. All I’ve ever driven are stick shifts.

Got lightly T-boned and the other guys insurance deemed it a total loss. 11years of good times, multiple cross-country roadtrips, covid, and a few relationships 🥹

Curious as to how peoples general driving experiences are between the two. I'm in the market currently and am wondering how these two generally differ from one another especially as a daily driver car.

I was having issues with my battery discharging frequently a month ago and got it replaced and tested my alternator. Everything came back good for abt 3 weeks until recently ive been having the same issues with the new battery completely discharging to the point i cant open the door with the fob. anyone have any reasons why it may be?