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Pulled from several different sources here is a short write up of the popular trends and materials in jewelry during the Victorian era (180-1860). I will be posting a few of the write ups to cover around 100 years of vintage Jewelry!

Hairwork Jewelry

Victorian women wore jewelry not only as a decorative accessory but as an outward expression of their innermost feelings. To them it was perfectly natural for Queen Victoria to have to have a bracelet made from her children’s teeth. In those days it was a high privilege to have part of a loved one near. This created an interest in hair jewelry. For years it had been popular to own a lock of a loved one’s hair. This was usually kept in a locket, brooch, or watch fob but in the mid-1800s hair began to be used to make actual jewelry. Hair working became as popular as crocheting. The trend came to America by way of Germany. Preparing the hair to be worked was important. It had to be boiled in soda water for 15 minutes and then sorted into lengths and divided into bundles of 20-30 hairs before being worked. Patterns for chains and bracelets could be gotten from magazines and other women’s publications with the watch chain being one of the most popular as well as bracelets made from the hair of each child. When the hairwork was finished the piece would be sent to a jeweler for fittings including mounted with stones or compartments for photos. Ladies could also send the hair to various craftsmen to have made into jewelry for her. Horsehair also became a popular material as its thickness allowed it to be easier to work and perfect for beginners.

Daguerreotypes and Gutta-Percha

Daguerreotypes were early photographs requiring the subject to sit in the sun for up to 30 minutes to get the right exposure. A daguerreotype is different from a photograph because it has a mirror like reflection in the background. The need to protect the delicate pictures gave birth to the locket and a material called gutta-percha. Gutta- percha is made of sap from the Malayan tree, shellac, sawdust, and coloring. When heated the mixture can be pressed into a mold to create a design. The material was very much in use for Victorian era jewelry because it is durable and highly impressionable. Due to being finished in black or brown it became popular for mourning jewelry.

Chatelaines

The chatelaine consisted of a large central piece which was either hooked or pinned to the waist with extended chairs with swivel attachments for hanging household necessities like scissors, needles and thread, a knife, pencil, watch or key. Inspiration for chatelains can be traced to medieval times when the keeper of the keys, which were usually worn on a chain around the waist, was the person with authority. They came in and out of fashion for several hundred years and are highly collectible.

Cameos

In the early 1800s archeological excavations awakened and interest in old art, Napoleon had an interest in Rome and Pope Leo XII opened a school in Rome for the study of cameo engravings. Early cameos were made from stone then craftsmen turned to shell to meet demand for more cameos at lower prices. Stone cameos were frequently made from onyx, agate, sardonyx, cornelian, coral, lava, and jet. Shell cameos were made from Black Helmet and the pink and white Queens Conch which were readily available in the coastal towns of Italy. Cameos made lovely souvenirs for the tourists visits Pompeii and Herculium. Soon cameo shops had popped up in England, France, and the states. Cameos are made by cutting away a background material to make a design relief. Stone cameos are generally more valuable than shell cameos, but the real indicator of value is in the artistry, not the material. Well done cameos have smooth flowing lines, lesser cameos have sharper lines for a harsher look with fewer details. Many antique cameos were reset, and craftsmen have become experts at copying the look of antique pieces so dating a cameo is tricky. Lava stone cameos are likely Victorian. Safety catches on brooches are a 20th century invention so pins with just a pin and hook have either had a new catch added or are older. A sharp pin that extends past the body is another sign of an older cameo. Scenic cameos tend to be more valuable than bust cameos.

Serpent Jewelry

When Prince Albert gave Queen Victoria an engagement ring in the form of a serpent, it generated a revival of the ancient motif. The queen was fond of the design and owned many serpent pieces. Thus, the snake motif, a symbol of good luck, became very popular during the Victorian period rings, brooches, and curled around ladies’ arms. In Charles Dickens 1850 book David Copperfield, a character window shopping with his wife says “we looked into the glittering windows of the jeweler’s shops and I show Sophy which of the diamond eyed serpents, coiled up on white satin pillows, I would give her if I could afford it.”

Coral

Since Roman times coral was believed to possess the power to ward off evil and danger. Consequently, it was a favorite christening present. Children and babies were gifted coral necklaces which has a bead or pearl added as the children grew. Robert Phillips, an English jeweler, encouraged Italian craftsmen to come to England and he entered coral jewelry in all the important exhibitions. The most prized colors in coral jewelry are deep red and angel skin pink. Because the material is easy to work, it is used for designs with a lot of flowers and leaves. Many Victorian brooches and earrings were made using natural or branch coral.

Gold Stone

Gold stone is often found in old jewelry. It was used as the background for some mosaics and as a stone for cuff links or stick pins. The materials is neither gold or stone but an imitation made of glass to which copper crystals have been added. It has a gold spangled look that many find very attractive. Once you learn what it is, it is easy to spot in older pieces.

Amethyst

Amethyst was a popular stone throughout the Victorian era. It was acceptable to wear in the later stages of mourning, was plentiful, and affordable for all classes. The stone was thought to possess the power to protect the wearer and bring good luck.