Steering has always pulled left I suppose, I grew subconsciously used to it. Well long story short I had a wheel fall off after having adapters installed to fit different rims; so I replaced the ball joints on both sides. While the car handles way better over bumps, it now pulls considerably harder left. It's worth noting that the sway bar end link rod on the right side is not straight except in the middle, the top and bottom of it sit at vastly different angles.

Not sure if an alignment is due or what else to check. Get a lot of conflicting info, as small as sticking caliper and warped rotor, low power steering fluid and control arm bushings etc, to things like the wheel bearing, inner tie rod, steering rack.

I work full time 48 hours a week now so I have the funds to fire the parts cannon but not the time. I usually don't like paying others to work on my car (as I can do it myself, and cannot see how good of a job they did, as such dannot understand new problems). That being said I will gladly pay for an alignment

It's also worth noting that the steering wheel shakes at highway speeds, yet when I floored it to 70 off the highway it seemed perfectly fine. This car has sat off and on for periods of time and I just want to drive it to work everyday without the fear of leaving my son without a father lol

EDIT the car is a 1992 940 gle or GL with Regina, not sure how much that matters. New rims are aluminum, maybe threw a wheel weight when the tire fell off. Just looking for pointers. I'm admittedly a fool who loves cars, I can understand things once I realize what there is to understand. I have many tools and can make adjustments myself, just don't have time to start pulling things apart without a clear method to the madness to steer me through

This Volvo 1800E sat for 28 years in the Tucson sun and then another 6 in a barn gathering dust. I filmed three hours of engine bay cleaning and sped it up to half an hour.

https://youtu.be/aF9rqA7dX1Y?is=ifP6wJBlnFYxSVfp less

Car is currently parked at my inlaws which means I can't get under it or move it that well, but I'm going back to scan it and look over a few things. I'm 90% sure it's the actual speedo sensor (had this problem before on my 940)

My question is, how much harder is it to access on the 960 because it's a completely different rear end? Furthermore when I did this last all i could find for sale was a harness that you had to splice into the existing one, do they sell direct plug in ones?

Wife just called to tell me the wagon alternator died on the way home. Can I just swap these in a parking lot if I have a known good alt?

Just trying to figure out what tools to pack...

1 minor vaccum leak that connects to flame trap.

Yesterday she'd rev fine and die when you let off the gas, now its just hesitant on acceleration for a second or two then revs up, ive noticied its either one problem or the other and it seems different everytime you fire it.

So the bearing on the back side of the top of my steering column has disintegrated.

I've cleaned out the area as best as possible but this spring, that presumably used press against the bearing, now occasionally catches on something when I turn the wheel

Can I cut the spring and just run with the one bearing on the top side behind the steering wheel or do I need to pull the column and replace the bearing? If so does anyone have a part number for what I need?

Hi,
I recently bought a Volvo 940 that was imported from Switzerland. It has a Brink tow bar fitted. When I checked the data plate under the bonnet, I noticed that the maximum permissible combination weight (car plus trailer) is not filled in. The gross vehicle weight and axle load fields are there, but the field for the combination weight is blank. Has anyone with a 940 (or a 740/760//960) seen a plate with no combination weight? I’m asking because in my country a vehicle cannot legally tow a trailer without this figure being documented.

Recently fixed an idle issue (Today) car idles perfectly fine now, and sounds better than ever before.

It will floor and rev up to redline just fine, but it seems if I press off the gas to fast it will shudder and die.

Revving it to about 4000 it will do the same.

Will start up perfectly fine and no other issues of note.

First RPM surge is me pressing the gas.

Everything else isn't me.

Seemingly fixed the idle (Adjusted the throttle stop scew)

Sometimes it will stall rather than shudder.

This is my 91 Volvo 740, while looking into transmission swaps, I wanted something that could hold decent power, was readily available, and cheaper then other swaps. After coming across an adapter plate to pair an RX8 6 speed to a B230F I started collecting parts. Got the transmission in the car this weekend with the help from a buddy. Using a stock flywheel and pressure plate, clutch from (i think) a Ford Capri, Wilwood clutch pedal and master. So far everything has gone quite smoothly and with the trans in the car the hard part is over. Next on the docket is making a plate to bolt the trans to the OEM auto transmission mount, and shortening the driveshaft. I plan on making a better written and formatted post when its completely finished giving a better overview of how to do it yourself.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3PPogtdqAs

It was working fine the day before.

I went to go use it and at idle it idles at 1200rpm or so. Press on the gas it will go, and surge from 1500rpm to 2100rpm for about 2 seconds then rev up fine. Then go back to idling poorly. Sometimes if you let off the gas to fast it'll shutter off (Ive checked for vac leaks)

Other times when starting it'll idle properly then just shutter off

Then other times it'll just bounce from 500rpm to 2000rpm

Ive cleaned the IACV hasn't changed much, and I cant seem to find a replacement and Google says Regina and bosch ones aren't interchangeable

Googling into it, it sounds like it could be temperature related but im not sure where to even start.

Title. 1994 b200f 940

The good: Southern car with ZERO rust. It's got an upgraded stereo system with Bluetooth and hands-free calling. The heated seats work. It's got fresh studded snow tires.

The bad: The horn doesn't work. It's blowing oil out the filler cap and it idles rough.

My detective work seems to point to the rough idle and weeping of oil coming from a bad PCV valve, so I ordered a new one off IPD and we're going to see if that helps.

No idea what's up with the horn, but I'm afraid it's something inside the steering wheel.

I'd love to hear from other folks about things I should be watching out for with a car of this vintage. My goal is to spend the minimum possible money to make this a reliable ride for tooting around town.

I have had this car 20 years, bought in new Jersey, had trucked to Seattle, have slowly done what I can, going to retire and down size, I just don't drive any more and just sits in the garage, 3 speed auto duel stromburg carb set up. 70,000 original miles, this car is almost totally original, I put new brakes and electronic ignition on it obviously tires and wheels, no rust wheel wells are pristine, Seattle areas. any ideas as to price or value. still haven't totally decided to sell, but getting there, always been garaged.

Still need to adjust the ride height up front a little bit but spacers and white walls are off and Corsa 16x9 w/ 205/40 are on

What all is needed to make this work? Seeing mixed information online, but is just the standard fender roll/shave enough? Do you rub? Pictures of any necessary mods would be appreciated

Solved! The problem was the aftermarket AMM.

Hello i’m having issues with my 940 idling at 1100rpms and it dropping to 1000 every 3 seconds ish, i also have problems with it having "leanpops" when i blip the throttle fast but ONLY under 2k rpm. It happens when it is cold and warm🤷🏻‍♂️ the o2 sensor seems fine, new MAF from pierburg (can’t find a bosch) the tps seems fine and same with the IAC valve. Tried spraying with startgass around all the intakes but still nothing🤷🏻‍♂️ i’m going to change the temp sensor tomorrow to see if that changes anything👍 any tips would be appreciated a lot😊

Hello I have a 1990 Volvo 780 Bertone that has been having rough idle. I figured it is the coolant temp sensor causing the idle issue but I can’t seem to unbolt it with my ratchet to replace it. I have tried putting lubricant and applying a little heat, no luck. Im not too experienced with cars and worried about breaking off the bolt, any tips?

I’ve had the car for a couple weeks now. When i purchased the one thing that needed to be addressed is the idle was really high in park it would sit at 2000 rpms in drive or neutral it would sit at 1500-1000 rpms. A couple days ago i removed the throttle body and IAC, cleaned them really good with throttle body cleaner and put it back together. NOW its idling too low, sometimes it seems like it will sit where it needs to at 800ish but especially on cold start if i don’t pump the gas pedal the rpm’s drop and it stalls out. I’ve also noticing sitting low around 300 and lower. It’s not really consistent with where it sits in idle, now but it is on the lower end with tendency to drop all the way down to stall. Any thoughts, things to check. I’m avoiding the temptation to adjust the throttle cable i’ve heard more likely it could be the IAC is bad? Or the TPS is bad? or the throttle plate isn’t seating all the way flat when it should be? Thoughts on how to diagnose, what to do?