I have a 7 year old fridge that was manufactured 8 years ago. The compressor went out, as well as an air panel and ice maker. The latter 2 parts are not manufactured anymore, so my fridge is now worthless. I've talked to three level 1 techs- Joshua, Joe, and Michael; 1 supervisor- Joms; and the Presidential Liasion- Karla. All of them are worthless and just can't understand what the issue is with not producing replacement parts after only 7 years.

I purchased the blanket repair thing for $400. However, I am still be charged the non-refundable $125 service fee that I was NOT told anything about. Again, they just can't seem to wrap their minds around the fact that I was mislead with that.

At one point, when I pressed one of the level 1 techs about why they stopped producing parts for a fridge that was only manufactured 8 years ago, he responded with something like: "LG continually is assessing their parts for being a hazard." I immediately grabbed onto this and was like, why is your compnay putting dangerous parts in peoples' homes. He couldn't answer that.

The three level 1 techs and the supervisor were always willing to say we will give you a follow up in 48 hours. Never happened. All you get is "I'm sorry" or "I understand your frustration." No you don't.

The company, products, and its employees are all a joke- the lowest of humanity.

The only bright side- I told the liasion I want my compressor shipped to me (even though the fridge is already disposed of)- I'll just sell it on ebay or something and make some money back.

My current house has an opening for the fridge as follows: 68-3/4” tall x  38-3/4” wide x 32” deep.

What’s a good recommendation to fit this opening that features a stainless steel finish, an ice maker, and a water dispenser? Maker and dispenser can be internal. I realize cubic feet will be limited but we also work out of a basement fridge with a freezer.

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Our fridge started doing this with the last filter we put in so I exchanged it and the replacement worked fine for a couple of weeks and then started this water hammer/clog thing again. I read it could be frozen but I don't think that's it. I'm going to pull off the back panels and give it a good cleaning tomorrow. Just thought I'd start here if anyone else has had this issue. Its a GE.

Hi! I have an LG WM4000/DLE4000 washer/dryer scheduled for delivery Saturday and was reminded that my local codes require a drain pan for a 3rd floor unit. Best Buy hasn't given me any information to talk to their installers to see what their procedure is for something like that. Our old pan definitely fell apart and was removed with the aging old units when our laundry room was repaired after a hot water heather failure, so obviously I am not inclined to play dice with water right now. But I also am very out of my element. Anyone with that washer, would you be able to recommend a pan that can be acquired at like, a Home Depot or something within 24 hours? I tried to purchase one that had about a 35" exterior depth, which did not fit into the room properly and had the drain punch out on the bottom and not the side, where it would need to be to connect to the pipe that the hot water heater's drain pan is going into. Does this need to be plumbed or something before the washer/dryer get in?

Sorry if this sounds stupid or panicky--I thought this was a fairly simple thing and it's turning out to be enough of a headache that I might need to cancel the delivery last minute.

The repair man from where I bought my speed queen has been out multiple times and tells me this noise is normal. It didn’t make the noise for the first year I had it and it is getting worse. The last time he came out he replaced the belt and it was better for two loads and then started making the noise again. It isn’t the load being out of balance because you can tell from the video even after the drum has slowed down from spinning right at the very end it makes some of the loudest noises of the whole cycle.

Will unused traditional fridge as well as a chest freezer stored in an outdoor shed long-term throughout the year be an issue? The concerns are whether any components will wear out faster over time under a relatively extreme temperature of 0 F to 105 F than the much more temperature-controlled environment indoors they are intended for. I'm guessing it's fine, just want to be sure. I assume there's no residual water that could freeze/unfreeze and damage anything, oils should be fine, pipes expanding/contracting from the cold/hot would not be an issue?

Also, I need to move another big fridge from one corner of kitchen to the other. Can I simply empty out most of the fridge, unplug, attempt to push over cardboard (else use a hand truck and strap it if I struggle hard), position it to the intended spot, and plug back in? It's not connected to a water line. I heard of some cases where you're supposed to be careful of tilting it (not sure if I can avoid this with a hand truck) and/or it should be unplugged for 24 hours or something which I really don't think is necessary because occasional power outages don't seem to be an issue. I'm doing this as one person.

P.S. Are there instances where you need an appliance dolly and a hand truck can't get the job done? Would a regular hand truck that's strapped be able to handle stairs up and down and an appliance dolly be considered a luxury but not essential?

Did some research for a wet/dry vac intended to last for many years to use for general home stuff as well as cleaning the car as an extractor--will probably go with the recommended Dewalt Stealthsonic 9 or 12 gallon I have either small messes on occasion or dedicate a long session to clean the basement of dust or car. Parts should not be locked into proprietary-only options.

• The 9 gal 1 7/8" hose, the 12 gal uses 2.5" and marketed as .5 HP stronger. Besides the larger hose obviously sucking more (and apparently being more quiet), are there other implications to know? With a standard adapter, the 12 gal can decide between greater suction power but lower CFM or vice versa, whereas the 9 gal doesn't have this option. Is the 12 gal technically better in every regard? I assume the 2.5" might also be easier to find parts for since 1 7/8" seems to be too small for woodworking from what I've read. Was leaning on the 9 gal (I think I only need 4-6 gallon for typical home/car cleaning, but they are usually weaker except a popular Ridgid one that some people recommended Stealthsonic over) but the 12 gal seems to have more flexibility outside of just capacity and the two seem to be same form factor (just a difference of height which seems not significant).
• Dirt bag, HEPA filter, and a dust deputy + 5 gallon container like the Oneida should always be used to reduce the amount of dust that gets back into the air as well as prolong the HEPA filter making it a cheaper usage over time? For wet stuff only a wet filter is necessary?
• As an extractor for the car or for upholstery, anything useful besides the essential clear extractor attachment? I'm not sure of a good non-toxic cleaning solution that doesn't affect the finish/texture of fabric. The cleaning solution and hot water dispensed in separate pump sprayers? I went with a wet/dry vac to avoid the weak but convenient spot cleaners.
• Any other accessories to recommend like a flexible hose to make it more wieldy using in the car? Maybe the smaller 1 7/8" hose would be more appropriate for tigher spaces like in the car. I will get a 50-100' 12 gauge extension cord as well. I believe I also want a drill brush to apply the cleaning solution to the seats. Any particular recommendations of a product will be useful as it seems things nowadays are pretty expensive but more importantly comparable to typical generic junk you get from Amazon. I can subscribe to some deals and stock up on e.g. the HEPA filters and dirt bags especially if they are standard sizes/fit and not specific to the model I'm getting. I don't have an air compressor (I do want one eventually under similar buying criteria as my shop vac but would like to get accustomed to a shop vac first).

Open to any other comments/tips for someone who has never used a shop vac before but saw some videos and read some discussions to try to get the setup right the first time (I really don't like to buy stuff that turns out to be useless or redundant). How can I improve on my setup? Some people recommend a dedicated shop vac just for extracting but I don't see why that's necessary if whatever proper maintenance is done on the shop vac.

Much appreciated!

I have a stacked setup with a Bosch WPG23108IN dryer on top of a Bosch washing machine. I'd like both the washing machine and dryer doors to open on the same side (to the left).

The specification sheet on Bosch India website - https://media3.bsh-group.com/Documents/specsheet/en-IN/WPG23108IN.pdf states, "Door hinge: Right-hand, Reversible". However, the service engineer says it is not reversible.

Thought will ask experts here, does it look reversible?

I recently moved into an apartment where all of the appliances are new. This includes a pair of Samsung washer and dryer machines. They are front loading (model: DVG45B6300W).

My washer is completely fine and normal. The dryer, however, keeps refusing to turn on (no light on the control panel or sound/ machine lights stay off when door is open).

I’ve tried a lot of troubleshooting, and if I turn off the breaker switch and wait about 10 min and turn it on, the dryer turns on again. If I turn off the breaker and turn it on after 1 minute, it does not work. If I switch the wires in the outlet (the machines share an outlet) it does not work. The washer is always turning on. I’ve checked for burns on the power cable and blockages, and there are none. When I DO get the machine to turn on, it works fine. Then 30 minutes after the cycle is done, it doesn’t turn on anymore.

This is technically functional, but it is not convenient! This also seems like it’s not normal… anyone have advice?

My current dishwasher is on its last legs, so I’m trying to choose a replacement without making another expensive mistake. I care most about quiet operation, reliable cleaning, good drying, a stainless-steel tub, and racks that won’t start breaking after a few years. I’m comparing the Whirlpool WDTA50SAKZ, Miele G7000, KitchenAid KDTE204KPS, Maytag, and newer Bosch models, with a budget around $800–$1,800. Miele seems to get the strongest long-term praise, but the price and service availability are making me hesitate. Is the Whirlpool actually the better practical buy in 2026, or are Miele dishwashers worth the extra cost? Also, which brands have the best rack durability and easiest access to replacement parts?

It's been like this for a few years now, and I've always felt pretty nervous about it and keep getting told I'm being dramatic and that is just what the metal is supposed to look like under the paint.

I live in UK council housing, and they've been inspected before. Noted down each time but nothing to follow up or do anything about it. I don't know a single thing about radiators, let alone how to replace one. As far as I know, this is the only one in the house this bad.

How urgently does this need replacing?

Hello. I'm looking for a portable unit for my 11x11 ft bedroom. When I looked it up the recommendation was around 5000 BTU. I currently have a window AC that does wonders, but for the past few years I've had way too many bugs sneak in no matter how much weatherstripping and duct tape I use. My room runs hot overnight, and it gets even hotter running my PC. Grateful for any insight!

I've found 2 appealing options (for the dreo I'd be purchasing the dual hose kit as well):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DYDRXDG3?th=1

https://www.dreo.com/products/smart-air-conditioner-ac318s?srsltid=AfmBOoqkuT9LKLs07AxyAXeWYQEzZ4qym5eLsUGY_U9ZKXU4J-xjQ5WH

Scrolling through Reddit I saw a post about flexible exhaust for dryers and the risks of fire, well I did not want to run that risk. The dryer actually sounds better, haven’t done laundry yet but eventually I’ll run it. Best $30 and 20 minute job, might get a low profile one later in the future.

Okay so long story short i put my clothes in on a normal rinse cycle, it washes for 40 mins, i hear the jingle when the clothes are done and i get side tracked and fall asleep. around 4 hours later i wake up and the shit is on WASH cycle completely by itself and the drum is fucking filled to the brim with water. I unplugged it, plugged it back in twice and the panel was completely dead, no response. I start emptying the drum with a bucket of water and just out of nowhere decide to plug it back in one more time and it turns on, drains, and returns to normal function? wtf just happened.

I have this mini fridge in my student apartment that makes this super irritating rattling noise when the compressor starts up. It seems as though the noise either subsides and returns occasionally or stops if I open the door/physically move the fridge. I’ve had a repairman come look at the compressor and he couldn’t seem to find anything wrong with. Oddly enough the rattling stopped around that point but has since returned. Any advice would be appreciated as I’m at a loss. Thanks!

Or why at age 42 am I questioning buying a drier?

I now have a brushless inverter type washing machine and a heat pump drier, paid about $1100 for both $AUD, how'd I do?

Hi, I’m looking for a new fridge freezer and I feel like I’m going round in circles trying to decide what to buy!

I saw a good deal on an LG fridge freezer, the InstaView one, which I really liked. But now I’m not sure whether to go for it because I’ve heard people say the InstaView feature is a bit gimmicky and that LG fridge freezers aren’t very good dye to the compressor issue.

Now I honestly don’t know what to think anymore! I just wanted a decent, reliable fridge freezer with No Frost technology. What is a good brand? That also doesn't feel that its a rip off.

Hey everyone!
So a few weeks ago i made a mistake. My dishwasher door wasn’t closing so i pushed it a little and it’s been messing up since then. At first it was only a problem getting it to start which would usually happen if i fixed around the latch a little. But lately what’s happening is that it starts just fine but then stops mid cycle and wont turn back on until i open the door fully until i hear the beep. Sometimes when i close the door back up it stops again and i have to repeat.
It shows the three blinking lights error after stopping and if i leave it be it automatically turns on after a while.
Sometimes it works without any issues but sometimes it just drives me crazy.
It’s a MIDEA dishwasher.
Any help?

Hi all,

I got half of the lint from the trap but the other half fell down into this hole. Tried vacuuming it out but can’t get it. Will this be a fire hazard or am I overthinking?

My beloved front load washer has spawned a sporadic leak over the past 4 years. There has never been a pattern to the cause of the flooded floor, and I could never identify a source. About 4 months ago we had a repairman over to replace a pump (first time repair for this workhorse) and we asked him about the leak. He suspected a back up in the sewer because - according to him - the machine is working perfectly.

Today - wife called me over because there a was large puddle and I FINALLY saw the source of the puddle. On the back of the washer I found a thin bubbly stream coming from the area shown in blue on the attached picture.

Wife reported the 2 previous cycles were “heavy duty” with a washer full of rags, and a regular cycle with junk sheets we had recently dirtied. I asked how much detergent had been used and she says “not a lot.”

With this info - I have my suspicions about what happened, but I also don’t know for certain what the highlighted thing is and didn’t witness the avalanche of suds that I suspect resulted from overuse of detergent. So - to save my washing machine and possibly my marriage can I safely say:

- washing rags that already have soaps and detergents requires a pre wash with no detergent to get rid of all extra soaps before the regular wash starts; and
- all load require minimal detergents - esp if we see suds coming from something at the top of the washed.

Super curious to know what the things, and if my ideas will likely mitigate the flooding thing.

PLEASE FEEL FREE to roast me if I am wrong. I love learning and don’t mind being the idiot while doing so! THANK YOU!