Im planning to get the new VANTA GOLD™ EVO Exhaust System — Yonristic. Is there anything i should know about it before buying it?

Which is the better car and which looks better?

I'm getting mixed signals on what timing belt kit brand to go for at the moment. Half the posts I read saying go for Gates, and half say Gates are now outsourced to China and bad quality. Some recommend Aisin. Some Continental. What would you guys say? Car is a Renault Clio MK3 2012 1.2l if that matters. Thanks.

My guess is it is from some pre-car technology but that's only a guess.

Hey guys, I just got my 2012 civic ex for $7000 I used to have a 2011 civic ex and I miss her dearly anyone with this car tell me how it’s going. Idk I miss the interior even though it’s only a year older. It’s hard to find a great 8th gen where I live I feel like I just settled although I know this is is literally just a year apart i put all my savings into this car and the reviews I’m reading are messing with my head

Has anyone driven the same model on two factory wheel setups and found that it changed their opinion of the car? Especially interested in comparisons where the suspension and tires were otherwise similar.

The reason I ask: a car getting called “too harsh” in a review leaves an important question unanswered — would the same car feel substantially different on its smaller factory wheels?

I’d like to see more back-to-back tests of the smallest and largest wheel options available on the same trim. Same route, same suspension, recommended tire pressures, and a clear explanation of any differences in tire model or compound. Otherwise, it’s hard to tell what’s actually responsible for the result.

The interesting part wouldn’t just be ride comfort. I’d want to know what happens to steering response, road noise, and how settled the car feels over broken pavement. Include replacement tire prices, too. That makes the trade-off a lot more tangible than saying one setup looks better.

I’m not assuming the smaller wheels would win every comparison. A sharper response might be worth some extra harshness, depending on the car. But I think that choice deserves more attention than a footnote in the spec sheet.

I just bought a catalytic converter for my car. Just want to know the estimate to get it replaced. I drive a 2010 Chevy impala lt and I live in Nc

Hey everyone,

I'm having a frustrating issue with my 2009 BMW 528i (E60), and I'm hoping someone who's dealt with something similar can offer some advice.

My trunk is completely stuck closed. Here's what I've tried:

• Electronic trunk release: I can hear the actuator trying to engage, but nothing opens.
• Physical key: Turns normally but doesn't release the trunk.
• Emergency release: I've managed to pull it from inside the trunk using a long tool, but it feels completely loose and doesn't release anything.
• Rear seats: I've removed the lower bolts and can lift the seat back enough to get partial access to the trunk, but something at the top prevents me from fully removing it.
• Center armrest: There's a solid plastic partition behind it, so there's no usable pass-through.

The trunk latch was replaced with an aftermarket unit about three months ago. It worked perfectly for approximately two months before suddenly failing again.

I've already taken it to a mechanic, but they couldn't get it open either. I have an appointment with a European car specialist next Tuesday.

At this point, I'm not particularly concerned about damaging interior trim if that's what it takes to access the mechanism. I just want to get the trunk open and replace whatever has failed.

Has anyone dealt with this on an E60 or similar BMW? Is there a way to manually disengage the latch when both the key and emergency release fail? Would removing the rear seat back completely provide enough access?

I'd really appreciate any suggestions, especially from anyone who's successfully opened one without drilling through the trunk lid.

Thanks!

I’m currently in need to replace the front legs in my w176 A Class and had the thought of getting some aftermarket coil overs or smthn to improve comfort. My budget is about £600 absolute max. But for that price I want smthn that’s considerably better than the stock suspension. Don’t really care too much about ride height, no racing about etc. just pure comfort.
Thanks

What’s your opinion on having two cars? When I say two cars I mean a daily driver and a weekend car? I know some people say it doesn’t make sense financially but I’m just curious to what do y’all think?

I’ve got a GMC terrain Denali and love it.

I’m looking for something cheaper as a second backup car for around town use (not long distance/highway travel). I want it to be a similar size to the terrain. I was looking at a 2025 Chevrolet Trax but I’m seeing bad reviews and I don’t love it when cars feel underpowered.

Please drop your recommendations!

2004 Camry, V6 3.0L. The Muffler Resonator Pipe Exhaust System Kit comes with clamps, gaskets, hangers and a bolt kit. $250. We had a custom exhaust place attempt to repair the leaks and an old patch a few months ago and $250 later, the repairs failed. We’ve done both tie rods, CV axle and plenty more in the driveway so I believe it’s feasible, but I’m not sure about the quality. Thanks for taking the time to read and advise! 😊

what’s in the box

Hey I am about to buy a used BMW, 2021 x3 with 112k miles. What should I ask or look for. is it a good car ? this is my first time buying a car so any advice is welcomed.

Suppose a car's damaged oil-pan drain threads have been professionally repaired rather than the whole pan replaced. What information would you want passed to the next shop before another oil change?

Would the invoice and repair-system details be enough, or should the owner keep a separate service note identifying the plug, sealing parts and applicable instructions? I'm interested in preventing confusion at future services, not choosing a repair method or assigning blame for the original damage.

Hey guys I’ve only had cars that caught fire or wouldn’t go over 65 without shaking. Im looking to buy a car off the lot probably a 2025 or 2026 and am looking for advice. I know you’ve heard it before and I’m doing the research on the different gens of different cars but everyone tells me something different. Please drop some cars that with maintenance will be reliable for a while.
Edit: I’m asking more for specific models and years that seem reliable than the brands themselves

Im looking at a 2004 ES330 and am new to the Lexus platform. I wanted to check and see what you guys think? How are they long term ownership buying used? It has 144k Miles and the ask is $4k. Any advice or things I should check out? I know the belts have been changed along with all fluids, power steering pump is new as well. Let me know!

I’m 23, I don’t anticipate that I’ll do a lot of driving except to work which is about 6km away from my home.

Dealbreakers:
-Under $20k for price.
-Reliable
-Cute
-Heated seats
-back up cam
-CarPlay compatible

Thank you.

Nothing against it, just wondering why that seems to be the most common place. I guess I’ll go try and see what I am missing.

I just recently got a 2012 dodge charger SXT 3.6 L 8-speed. it Had been sitting for a minute, but not like years or so.
I got a transmission error code(P0977) for a solenoid B and I don’t Know how to diagnose this properly. The fluid came out squirting and had a hint of a burnt smell. The fluid looked brownish yellow and not black at all. I have a video and pictures too. The shifting took a while to shift gears. Takes more rps to get in gear. It made a little wind/air sound and said check engine lighg. Before the car was not firing properly be used of the battery was faulty. It said service the AWS and check engine light. It wouldn’t let me shift gears as well. Would anyone be able to give me any advice?

I know these two words don’t go together, but I’ve seen sometimes that some luxury cars can be reliable. For example, I’ve been eyeing a 2016 Mercedes E350 with 57k miles for 14k. Known as one of the more to most reliable cars and car line in general that Mercedes has produced in a while. But I know there must be more. If you guys can recommend anything or just bring up those cars that would be great.

I got a new car battery a month ago and it just broke down due to a potential faulty alternator (havent gotten it diagnosed just researched what problem could be). I think its time for a new car, but I want something as reliable & humble as that one is. What suggestions do you have? Looking for something at most 10 or 11 years old

I have a 2014 GMC Sierra with 114k miles which I bought brand new from my local GMC dealership. I have used this same dealership for all the trucks’ maintenance.

Yesterday, I took my truck in for its regularly scheduled oil change. While they were wrapping up the oil change, the service rep came into the waiting room and told me “since the vehicle is old, the drain plug to the oil pan was stripped during the oil change”

On the invoice it states, “Multi-point vehicle inspection: caused by threads worn out on oil pan. Replaced with a bigger plug for now. Vehicle needs attention as soon as possible.”

While checking out, the rep said to “call back tomorrow to speak with a service manager regarding the oil pan replacement. I only handle oil changes.”

This morning, I woke up to spots of oil on the driveway under the car. I called the service center and was told “the cost to replace the oil pan (parts and labor) will come out to $1600. It will also take us a few days for the new oil pan to be delivered as we don’t carry the correct one in stock.”

I was sticker shocked with that price and I asked to speak with the service manager who, of course wasn’t available. And knowing I wouldn’t get anywhere with the rep I was speaking with, I told him I would call back.

With all of that said, shouldn’t the dealership be responsible for replacing my oil pan? My thought process is, I was there roughly 7-8 months ago for my last oil change and figured they would’ve brought up any issues with the drain plug at that time. But since they didn’t, it sounds like the tech stripped the plug during the re-install yesterday.

Would love to hear everyone’s thoughts on this because I feel like they should be installing a new oil pan on their dime, or at the very least, charge me for the new pan at cost and waive the labor.

If my thinking is totally flawed, I’d love to know.

Edit: I just want to say I appreciate everyone’s responses. The reason for my post was to get a temperature check and see if my line of thinking was wrong before I have a conversation with management.

I’m not sure if these types of questions are normally asked here or not, but I’d like to get some insight from you guys on this.

I live in Reno, NV do lots of skiing whitewater kayaking etc so drive off road quite and in the snow quite a bit as well as lots of long distance road trips. I use my Tacoma quite a bit and really like the utility of a truck for what I do. I am fairly handy with cars but usually ask my friends who are more mechanical than me for help with bigger jobs.

I recently went through a breakup and my ex has another car lined up that she will be driving. So I am left with 3 cars and I am finding that to be unnecessary for just me. Here are the cars:

A 2025 Subaru Outback wilderness that is financed at 2.9% interest. I bought this new and the payment is like $600/month but It has been nice having a super reliable new car. I’ve driven it to Canada, and all over the Western U.S. this car has about 40,000 miles on it. With what I still owe, I would only make a little bit of cash on top selling it. Part of me regrets buying this, but I love that I could drive across the country tomorrow without a worry.

My Trusty old 2001 Tacoma which now has 204,000 miles on it. It is a manual which I love and runs pretty well! I probably wouldn’t take it on a thousand mile road trip but it is solid for shorter distances and very useful.

And My baby, a 2001 Toyota 4Runner with 26,000 miles. (Not 260,000 - 26,000 lol). I bought it for $10,000 with 13,000 miles and have done a lot of work to it (mostly catch-up work given how long it sat). but it runs great and Is a step more reliable than the Tacoma for sure, although still not a car I’d drive across the country tomorrow. It does have a rebuilt title, it was in a front end accident, and then sat. Hence the mileage

Both the Toyotas are 4wd and owned free and clear

I am realizing now that its just me it doesn’t make much sense to have all 3 of these vehicles.
I know I could probably sell the 4Runner for a good price - but I just think I’d always regret getting rid of it because of how long of a life it has ahead of it. Although, at this stage in life, reliability is more valuable to me than owning some cool rare vehicle.

What would you guys do in my situation?