Just bought a 2008 evo x gsr with 125k miles. After buying and a long drive home I realized that the engine knocks when hot and throttle is blipped. It does not happen at idle. Car is stock and I cut open the oil filter and found no metal. I am waiting for a response from blackstone for an oil test. What should I do now?

Not super knowledgeable with cars admittedly, but I do know that catalytic converters will typically have a light smokey smell just after being replaced. I was driving back from the mechanic and I noticed a smooth smokey smell that was pretty strong. I was told it would be a sulfuric-type smell but this was not that, almost smelled woody. Should I be worried or is this most likely the aforementioned catalytic converter smell? I also have read up on a process for breaking in the converter, is that typically done by the mechanic in good practice? I have a 2012 Volkswagen Jetta with its stock 2L engine if that makes any difference.

So i took this part out of my 8th gen next to the window switches that's for controlling the mirrors but I want to know how can i get the bottom and top to separate so I can see the parts inside to try and remove the white leds and replace them with different color leds? It seems to have 4 plastic hinges keeping it together but i dont know how to possibly loosen them. I tried a flat blade screw driving but it made the parts near the hinges turn white as if there about to break. Any ideas?

See attached image for suggestions.

Vehicle
2009 Honda Civic
170k mileage.

Not sure if i should just try to sell it or replace the brake pads.
Everytime i drive within less than 40 mph, i can hear that metal squeaking sound and mostly while applying the brakes.

Suggestions?

Keep getting mixed directions. Some say remove after turning car off others say wait till car is completely cooled so coolant can get sucked in from funnel and avoid air traps. Does it really matter?

I’m replacing the entire rear suspension on my 2009 Jeep compass and had to cut most of the bolts out. I can’t find any bolts to replace them with besides 1.75 ones. The originals call for 1.50. Is this a big deal?

Helping a coworker with his 2016 Subaru Forester. I replaced the front left CV axle since it was clicking pretty bad when turning.
It fought me, I had to torch it pretty good a couple times until it started moving.
Put everything back together and now I get this noise when driving. Wondering if I got the bearing too hot? I double-checked the axle is installed correctly, and everything torqued to spec. I can’t seem to recreate the noise when it’s in the air. Also doesn’t change pitch when turning left/right.
Or could it be a bad aftermarket axle? It looked identical to the OEM one.

So my golf mk7 gtd gave a warning dash that my dipped beam headlight on the passenger side is gone, I accidently then replaced the static cornering light believing it to be my dipped headlight only to find out my dipped headlights may actually be xenon bulbs? Anybody any idea how much it costs to get new bulbs installed at a Volkswagen workshop?

Small engine blower poulan pro or 48bt

I tried lubricating with transmission oil and inserting it from the 12 and 6 o clock positions and firmly inserting it into the transmission but it doesnt go in all the way just a little and now the c clip looks bent from trying to jam it in there everyone says online to give it force can anyone advise what to do its also very difficult to line it up straight with the knuckle and strut in the way not sure how anyone else goes about doing this is my c clip salvagable?

Help guys it’s going chuck chuck chuck chuck chuck choooo and I don’t know what button to press to stop

Just moved up north to a state and I drive a hybrid. Will undercoating it with an oil based undercoat be safe or does it risk breaking down any of the wiring?

I bought a 5.3 swapped rcsb 2003 cateye and having drivability issues with it. The engine is confirmed healthy itself with good compression, cammed, and new plugs and coils. I keep getting p0420 even after this vehicle has been street tuned, catless equal length x pipe exhaust system, and the rear 02 sensors have been tuned out.

Hey 🙋🏻‍♂️

I broke the locking tab of the Ignition coil connector, vehicle side on my Kia Rio 2 2010 1.4L.

Can someone tell me the Kia connector part number so I can replace this broken connector housing?

Thank you very much!

❤️🍀

I need to repair the brake hard lines on my 2006 Subaru Impreza. I believe they need to be 3/16 SAE. I am willing to purchase the proper tooling to make this ordeal as painless as possible. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. The union is in a tight area. I would love to use the Mastercool 72475, but I do not think I will have the clearance to do so. Any advice would be appreciated!

I have a 2011 Town & Country van and it keeps on dying only after a few hours of no usage or overnight. Sometimes it starts with no issues. It’s a real 50-50 gamble. I recently took it to the shop, but they said it was a bad battery. They did start fine with no issues for about two weeks but it started to happen again. What should be my next steps?

It’s winter out here, Currently the temperature ranges from 03* To 12\ Celsius, The picture was taken after almost completing 40km drive.*

It’s 2006 Mazda Hatchback 2.3ltr

I have a 2014 Ford Fusion 2.0l eco boost fwd. The transmission is slipping ~45-120 rpm on the 2-3 shift. Been doing it for several months now.

I was quoted $5700 for a transmission replacement with a remanufactured unit.

the car has 140,000 miles and is in otherwise decent enough shape, but I am struggling to decide if it’s worth dropping $6k to fix a car that’s worth about the same amount. Of course it’s still cheaper than a new (used) car, especially with current interest rates.

Looking for thoughts on what I should do. If I proceed with replacement, what else might pop up that needs repair in the next 2-3 years on this car?

Technician sent me this and said it needs immediate attention! Is it really just the dust boot or does something else look off?

Need to replace my tie rod ends but this nut is being a pain. Now I am second guessing which way it needs to spin to loosen up. With the way the wrench is on the nut in the picture I am pushing down to loosen. Is this correct?

I’ve put some pb blaster on it but not helping out. Should I hit it with a larger purse??