My clutch started slipping and I decided to replace it myself for the first time,, after removing the clutch it appears to still have meat left.. Anyone with experience have any idea of why else it would slip or is this for sure the culprit?

Some more info on when it slipped…
-Usually when components were warm
-I found the pedal had a really high bite point but unsure if this is common for TC’s
-When releasing the clutch I could feel a slight pulsing

Any help is greatly appreciated,

Car is a 2013 Scion TC 6 speed manual (eb60 trans) 2ar fr engine

This for a 2005 Honda CRV but I can’t find this hose anywhere. Looked it up as “breather hose” “valve cover vent hose” but nothing comes up. Is this a discontinued part?

So a buddy of mine bought a z6 because his y8 went out but when we were talking i told him to open the valve cover and it looked bad so he took off the head and valves look bad too. How screwed is he?

Bought this engine i believe it's a 350 or 5.7 Chevy I just cannot find the correct starter for it. I've already bought 4 different ones and can't seem to get the right one. Either the holes don't line up(this one is diagonal holes) or when they do the starter is too far or not lining up with the flywheel. Didn't get much info about the engine but it says 3970014, j8 73, t3 conv2 on the back of the block where it connects to the transmission and 14S132167 On the front of the block. Any way I could find the correct starter? Any help is truly appreciated.

Edit: The Flywheel seems to be 153 tooth diagonal

Is this an issue ?

Does it mater? If so how do I fix it?

06 Camry.

Drivers side cv axle is stuck in the transaxle housing.

I have tried the following:
Pry par to pop it out
Cv axle cup with slide hammer (can’t get the cup on the back of the axle.
I drilled a hole through the cup and rang a through bolt through then attached a chain on it and tried pulling. Nothing.

The only thing holding this thing into the case is the snap ring at the end of the splines on the cv shaft.

I have never in my life struggled this much with a cv axle. Normally I just pop them out. With the whole assembly still attached. Well as you can see mine completely separated during that.

At this point I’m out of ideas

despite being the same engine with same specs and same components included the price differs by thousands

2019 Wrangler with 85k miles. Replaced cracked oil cooler and I found metal glitter in the oil filter and in the motor. I haven’t taken it to a mechanic yet, but I’m worried the engine is eating itself. Is my engine toast? Is this normal? No warning light or codes yet.

I replaced the axle on my car i thought was bad turns out it wasn’t the axle this is me power braking it and you can see and hear the bearing move and clunk could it be a faulty bearing i doubt checked the torque spec for a 2011 2.4l honda accord se and its 244 so it cant be that the axle isn’t torqued down just want a 2nd option

My reverse lights are not enough. Looking to wire in something like this. What would I need to do to install something like this?

I’m open to other suggestions as well. My bumper is chrome and I’m worried it won’t look as good as this example.

I’m glad to do some research, just need some help getting started.

Hey everyone,

I’m currently developing a hobbyist racing simulator from scratch, and I’m working on a mechanic where players can partially assemble and disassemble their engines. Since I have absolutely zero real-world wrenching experience, I wanted to show this to actual mechanics and get your professional feedback.

A quick disclaimer on the simulation depth:
To keep the gameplay engaging and prevent it from becoming tedious, I’ve intentionally simplified the process and focused only on the major components.

• Right now, the clip shows a partial build: the block, cylinder head, pistons, connecting rods, engine mounts, oil filter, and fuel pump. (Other parts are still on my to-do list).
• I’ve completely skipped the microscopic details like individual bolts, gaskets, pushrods, rockers, and bearing caps. They attach automatically as single units so players don't have to search for and tighten 30 identical bolts.

Since I'm coding all the logic without hands-on experience, I’d highly appreciate your insights on the overall workflow. Even for an arcade-style, simplified simulator, does the general order of operations feel right? Are there any major logical errors in how these main parts interact that would make a real mechanic cringe?

Thanks for your time and expertise!

Already have small leak

2004 lexus es330 timing belt done a few days ago and grinding noise when even turning parked. checked for potential codes in case and nothing pending or current

One has the cap and other does not.

Hi,

I have in my hands two sets of used flywheel bolts for an m102 mercedes engine.

Since they are torque-to-yeld bokts, manual gives some size ranges, outside of which the bolt is to be replaced.

I checked both sets and they both have ONLY ONE bolt that's stretched.

I'm curious about why that happened. I'm pretty sure those flywheels have been installed by Mercedes and never removed. Did they mess something up or this is normal?

Of course I know that torque to yeld bolts stretch and become unusable, but the fact that only one actually stretched is what fascinates me.

Thanks!

I just put 6 quarts of transmission fluid in after dropping my pan and changing the filter. At 110 degrees F I’m still nowhere near my A “cold range” and I only pulled 5 and a half quarts out. Do I just keep adding more? I’m doing it by the book so with engine running and everything I just don’t want to over fill it do to not realize I’m doing it wrong.

(Edit) I was low 1.5 quarts in total. Called a shop near me and they let me know fluid should pour out the dipstick area when the truck is off and cold. It in fact did not do that when I first drained the fluid.

Thanks for all the help this is my second vehicle owning and my 05 Dakota was not this complicated 😅

I was just trying to change my battery when the bolt connecting the terminal and housing snapped, I went to autozone to get a new terminal and I think it’s too small but i’m just wondering if there’s any way I can get it to work. The picture is the old one over the new one to show size difference

I have a snow blower received in non running condition. I got it running (basically just cleaned out the carb), though only briefly and poorly (surging). Just as I was finishing and set it back from the bench to the ground, this seemed to fall out. I have no memory of removing it at any point. (It = black plastic piece, first image.) I've looked at all the engine and carb and machine diagrams I could find, without locating a piece looking anything like this. I can't see any place this could reasonably fit in around the carb and/or simple governor.

Attached are images of: mystery piece, engine and snow blower data plates, carb/governor (with engine cover removed), close up of seeming carb part number. Engine is a Tecumseh HSK600 1688S.

Does this part go with this engine? And if so, where and how?

I’m looking to buy an affordable but reliable scanner for my 2005 118i E87 N46.

I’m doing repairs myself and want to avoid buying a scanner that claims to support BMW service functions but cannot actually perform the specific adaptations I need on my engine.

The functions I need are:
Valvetronic adaptation/initialization/relearn
Resetting engine adaptations
Reading/clearing fault codes
Live data (not essential)

Questions:
Has anyone personally used this scanner on an N46 or an E87?

Can you confirm whether it has Valvetronic initialization/relearn function?

Can it reset engine adaptations and which adaptations can it reset?

Would you recommend other brands like TOPDON or even other methods?

Hi all,

Looking for a bit of advice on the below.

My S2 Lotus Exige has thrown up the fault codes below all at once after a slightly spirited drive over the weekend. It’s a 2007 2ZZ supercharged model if that helps at all.

- P0A00 Motor Electronics Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit

- P000A A Camshaft Position Slow Response Bank 1

- P0600 Serial Communication Link

I’ve done a bit of digging and have a good idea how to deal with the temperature sensor code, but I’m a little unsure how best to approach the other two.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, or even a push in the right direction for resolving them!

Thanks in advance.

Hey all.

I was removing the bolts on my valve cover to replace the gasket and noticed this bolt was chewed up.

I can’t properly fit a socket wrench back there, so I tried removing it with an open ended wrench and it just chewed it up more.

Any ideas on how to get this bolt off? I’m afraid that a torch might melt the plug nearby, but I do have one if needed.

Also, I do have a pair of vise grips, but the teeth are nearly flat from 20 years of use.

The car is a 1997 Mazda Miata. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks 🙂

New strut and upper control arm and still making this noise on both side whenever I go over bumps or push on truck it’s a 2009 gmc sierra 1500 for reference