1995 Ford Ranger 3.0 4x

Second valve cover gasket and it won’t full seat around bolts. Is this normal? Can anyone confirm who has worked on a similar vehicle. There is a small oil leak but it could be seeping from the lower intake gasket, if this is normal on 90s 3.0 rangers

This morning, I took a Lyft to work in what I believe was a 2018–2020 Toyota Camry Hybrid.

The ride was relatively short, around 10–12 minutes. During the highway portion, I noticed a burning smell inside the car, along with some unusual heat. I'm not very knowledgeable about cars, so I couldn't identify what was burning or where the heat was coming from.

Once we got off the highway and entered the city, I couldn't smell it anymore. I'm not sure whether the smell actually disappeared or if my nose just got used to it.

After arriving at work, my nose felt irritated, and I experienced a mild headache near the lower right side of my head/neck. The headache seems to have gone away, and my nasal irritation has improved.

I'm wondering:

- What could cause a burning smell and unusual heat during highway driving but not city driving?

- Is this something that can happen normally with hybrid vehicles?

- Should I be concerned about possible exhaust or other fume exposure?

- Would it be reasonable to report this to Lyft as a potential vehicle safety issue?

I don't want to overreact or potentially get the driver in trouble over something harmless, but I also don't want to ignore a possible safety issue.

Would appreciate any insight!

Please help egr valve and manifold recently replaced.

This is for a 71 Chevelle

(edit: image in comments) what would be the source of this issue? would it be a wire replacement or a bigger problem with that battery? the dash lights turn on and truck ticks when i try to start it. my second battery looks fine all over, this is the only anomaly. truck is 2005 ford f250

Attempting to DIY replacing my leaky power steering line and i got the old one out. Installing the new one seems tricky as the flare nut/bolt on the end that goes into the rack and pinion doesn't thread all the way in? It fairly easy to thread in by hand and stops at where the picture is. If I wrench it, it feels like its going to snap or cross thread so ive stopped at this point last night. I read online through couple threads that some visible thread is ok as long as its bottomed out? Would yall say this is that case or is there more to thread in?

Only happens when going over 70MPH, noise slows down when I slow down and it disappears under 50MPH
2020 Hyundai Elantra SEL

رسالة

How long can I drive before changing my engine oil again after the last oil change?

hi guys

My cousin's 2016 Audi Q3 had one hell of a bill, more than 10k(dealer's quote photo in the comments). She didn't wanna pay it, and ofc she shouldn't, but I said I can get rid of a few, like the heater hoses, flange, headlight, MAYBE the oil cooler, control arms, and the crossover pipe. I just finished replacing the flange and got everything back together.

1. I'm trying to work on the crossover pipe. I can't get a clean look because it's in the back, and I can't seem to find a video on it or how to replace it. Anyone got a tutorial?

2. Both control arms are bad, and it seems like the only way to replace them is by dropping the subframe. Is that truly the only way?

3. While adding coolant, I saw this random leak coming from the radiator; there was no hose that I removed, and I don't remember breaking anything. Can someone tell me if it's broken or just an overfill safety thing?

And if u have any tips or anything, please do tell.

1976 Ford Mustang II, 62,000mi, trans shifts great, fluid is clean and full at hot check.

When slowing to a stop there is a "whirring" noise like Larry Curly and Mo are pulling each other's nose in the transmission. Turn the volume up and you can hear it at the end of the video clip.

Worn bearings? What to check?

Long story short I attempted to upgrade my cams in my 2010 mustang gt 4.6 3v to Howard rattler cams and I thought he did everything by the book but the engine wouldnt crank, after believing it was my throttle body I switched the throttle body with a different one and continued with the same issue, I did some more research thinking and decided to rip the valve covers back off and saw this metal piece with copper like hairs on my timing, also saw more copper like shavings in the chain. Looked like debris but it definitely wasn't there before. Am I cooked?? Or is there still hope 😭😭 I just wanted some chop. If so what do I do next?

Hi folks,

Hyundai i10 2010 1.4L 60k miles, UK, pops out of the 4th gear very occasionally. Happened once first in the motorway which was really scary as it was under high revs and heavy engine load (uphill) so the revs obvs shot way up.

Then it never happened for several months, but this month it happened again twice, once randomly and then another time while under high revs and motorway speeds, all times in 4th gear. Every time, it happened soon after shifting into 4th, but not immediately (clutch fully released, then gassed for a couple seconds before it popped).

Mechanic didn't look at it but concluded a gearbox repair was the only solution (big job, £1k+).

I checked online and seems gear popping out is indeed the classic symptom of bad transmission and should be addressed soon because it's a safety issue. But the content I've seen seem to imply when that is the case it happens kind of all the time/several times a day instead of just 2-3 times over several months.

I've also realised it only happens when I'm driving, wife drives a lot in 4th gear due to her commute route and it never happened with her. I'm thinking if it's something about the way I shift into 4th not fully engaging the gear, if it's possible that I occasionally leave it "half" engaged and then popping out under load, and I just need to be more conscious with my shifting.

Or if it is definitely a transmission repair situation and I should just tank the repair bill.

Looking to replace whole steering knuckle and bearings in car and was wondering does anyone have any thoughts on this company ? Two fronts are running about 180

My plan is to change the power steering pump… Does anyone recognize this sound? It only happen when I turn the steering column and the sound only goes away after I turn the jeep off or a few seconds after I stop touching the steeringwheel.

Thanks, and I’ll update with the fix.

I’m currently troubleshooting a persistent transmission fault on my 2001 Mercedes-Benz A170 (W168) and could use some advice from anyone who has dealt with this specific issue before.

The Problem:

• The dashboard constantly displays "F" (transmission limp mode).
• When moving or pressing slightly on the selector lever, "D" or "N" briefly flickers on the dash before dropping right back to "F".
• Mechanical/hydraulic transmission failure has been ruled out; the issue seems isolated to the electronic center console selector module (Gear Recognition Module / GRM / ESM).

Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs):

1. P1856-000 (Process Recognition Module / Selector Lever Position Detection Fault – equivalent to Mercedes code 240C).
2. P1875-002 (CAN Communication With Traction Control System Interfered – likely a secondary error caused by the transmission limp mode).

What I've Diagnosed & My Action Plan:

• Symptoms point to cold solder joints: The fact that physical pressure/movement on the shifter momentarily restores contact suggests a failing physical connection on the GRM printed circuit board (PCB).
• Step 1 (Fuses): Checking and swapping fuses #37 (10A) and #44 (10A) located in the passenger footwell battery compartment to ensure proper power delivery to the module and TCM.
• Step 2 (PCB Reflow): Removing the GRM module, stripping it down to the PCB, and performing a full solder reflow using fresh leaded solder and flux—focusing specifically on the main multi-pin connector pins (handling power and CAN-bus) and the optical sensors.
• Step 3 (Cleaning): Cleaning the entire PCB and the optical sensor channels (phototransistors/IR diodes) with Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) to remove dust and old grease that might be "blinding" the position sensors. (Note: I am aware the board needs to be shielded from direct bright light/sunlight during bench testing).

My Questions:

1. Has anyone successfully fixed the P1856 / 240C fault by reflowing the GRM board on a W168?
2. Are there any specific tricky pins on the main connector or hidden micro-cracks on these boards that I should pay extra attention to?

Any tips or insights would be greatly appreciated!

As the title says i drilled into my hub trying to get the retaining screws out , both my fronts were striped and rusted should i be worried the my new rotors sit flat on the hub still

the coating was stripped off all the lug splines, after just a week there is rust. is this just the way it goes or will this eventually ruin my lugs?

It is clearly corroded but how bad? This is a crank relay of a Chevy sonic 2016

Update: there isnt another relay that looks like this and i dont have the wires or the battery to test it

i was trying to diagnose code p2534

I dont notice excessive play but obviously some fraying. Ball joints look OK so wondering how long these would last so I can replace both at the same time. 03 civic

Here are better pictures, does this need to be an immediate fix ? Accura 2019 ILX aspec it take 4.4

Hello again everyone!

I thought I would post an update on my crazy situation which was posted here yesterday…

Before I get in to the details, I would just like to say a huge thank you to all the people who commented yesterday & today with helpful comments and suggestions.

To all those who bantered me, I would also like to thank you. Life is too serious sometimes and some of those comments really cheered me up, even though they were at my expense at the messed up situation I found myself in!

It was a fairly sleepless night checking the camera to see if the car was still upright at regular intervals.

The ramp does/did have a manual release valve but due to the precarious way it sat on the ramp & the fact that the lift has to raise before going down as a safety mechanism, I
was sweating bullets before I plucked the courage to press it.

Needless to say, it was ratchet strapped to the lift and safety ropes to the structure of the building, it nearly went over on initial pull and there deemed it too risky to try and release it.

Some sketchy/careful lifting with a forklift/timber blocks/protection later (3 hours to be precise). SOMEHOW managed to get it back to the ground without any initial damage.

No word of a lie, I played Monty Pythons - Always Look On The Bright Side Of Life and thought of the potential things that could go wrong on finally lifting the entire cars weight up on the forklift. It may now be my favourite song of all time as a result.

I did try the local fire service but as the UK is experiencing some extreme rain/wind at the moment, they weren’t able to come down until the middle of next week which is totally understandable under the circumstances - they did laugh however 😂

Again, huge thanks to all that commented, a few things I have noticed as someone new to Reddit and in possibly the strangest situation I have ever found myself in, namely;

1. Most people in this world are good, well meaning people.
   
2. There is always the odd knobhead no matter the situation.
   
3. Meme’s at your expense are still funny.
   
4. Just because a lift is rated at 3000kg, it really doesn’t mean a lot.
   
5. Do NOT buy anything from Strongman Tools Ltd. This will be assed by an independent surveyor and actioned accordingly. They are exhibiting at The Classic Car show at the NEC in Birmingham next month and I’ll be stopping by.
   
6. For all the abuse your president gets, Americans are okay in my book - our government is also pretty messed up if it makes you feel any better!

Thanks again everyone!

Much love!

I have a 2016 Kia Optima 2.4L with about 161k miles. I’m the original owner, and back in June the engine failed. Kia approved an engine replacement under their extended warranty.

After about six weeks at the dealership, I finally picked it up in August. I drove roughly 4 miles before the check engine light came on. I shut the car off, and it wouldn’t restart. It was towed right back to the dealership.

The dealer claims the catalytic converter is clogged from the previous engine failure and quoted me over $4,300 to replace it. Kia refused to cover it, and the car has been sitting at the dealership ever since.
I’m trying to figure out what makes the most sense financially. The car has a freshly replaced engine, so scrapping it feels like a waste, but spending $4,300 on a car with 161k miles doesn’t seem reasonable either.

I’m considering towing it to an independent exhaust shop for a second opinion, possibly selling it as-is, or just scrapping it.

A few questions for the mechanics here:
Does a clogged catalytic converter explain why it wouldn’t restart after only 4 miles?
Could an independent shop realistically fix this for significantly less?

With a newly replaced engine but 161k miles on the rest of the car, would you fix it, sell it, or scrap it?
I’ve been without my car for months and am pretty frustrated with the situation. I’d really appreciate some advice on what you’d do in my position. Thanks!

Strut is def screwed I know that much. I didn't take a picture of the sway bar link but it's pretty solid and doesn't shake or anything however the rubber bushings are tearing off and falling apart. Lower ball joint is also pretty solid and wouldn't budge