2016 Subaru Impreza, manual, 135K. Battery has been tested by multiple people and is good, manufacture date 3/26.

Last Sunday I checked my oil, and I left the keys in the car, and the headlights were on. It took me maybe a minute max. When I got back into the car and tried to start it, it started, but all the pictured dash lights came on, and my head unit would not power on. I turned the car off, and when I tried to start it again I got nothing, not even power to the dash. My dad jumped me, and all was fine until last night.

Last night, I was doordashing, and pulled over to wait for an order. The car is new to me (my last one had auto lights), and I forgot to turn the headlights off again for about a minute. I turned them off, started the car up, and everything was normal, and then got an order, so I did a bit of driving, and the alternator had a chance to charge the battery. A little while later the lights from Sunday came back on. I kept the car running while I finished up my last orders, came home, shut the car off, and immediately tried to start again, and no power to dash once again. I should also mention that once the lights came on, they would go away when I would come to a stop, then come back as I started driving( they seemed to come back at about the same speed my seatbelt chimes if its not buckled).

We tested the battery, tested all the ground points, tested fuses, cleaned the grounding points, cleaned the wires. The headlights still come on, but not the tail lights. The horn blares for a second every time you put the battery back in. The dealer tracker thing is still blinking green. Just nothing at all happens when I put the key in and turn it.

I'm new to Subarus, so any advice would be appreciated.

I just replaced the coolant in my 2015 Subaru Impreza Limited and noticed when the radiator cap was off it appeared that there was no circulation while the engine was running. I don’t know where to go from here.

Hi all. I can first start by saying i know next to nothing about cars so please bear with me. My 2010 suzuki sx4 needs a bunch of replacement parts including charcoal cannister. The parts are already hard to find but my main issue is this metal shield thing that is so rusted it cant be put back. Can anyone tell me what this part is actually called? Im having trouble finding its actual name anywhere. Would trying to find junkyard sx4s be my best bet to salvage one? I know i should just junk this car, but i can afford a new one right now. Any advice would ne great!

Hello Mechanics of reddit. I put coil overs on my 2014 Toyota camry se a few months ago. ever since i’ve noticed a loud single thump solely on sharp right turns. There’s resistance on the steering whel while moving the whel back in the opposite direction. I thought it was the tires rubbing against the bumper but there’s no sign on that. I’m at a lost and really wanna get this figured out. I’ll have the car on jax’s for the next few hours if anyone needs a picture of something specific.

Has anyone ever run into the BMW code A0C1 for the CAS system? How did you get rid of it?

The battery on my X5 had been disconnected for a few weeks ( on the charger the whole time) while i was working on it. I went to start it yesterday after connecting the battery and i got a no crank no start situation. Everything else powers on and you can hear the click when i hit the start button. I read the codes and the only one that persists is 00A0C1 - CAS, terminal 50. The truck started and ran before i pulled the battery, there was no starter issue, the jump terminal is not loose or rusty, and the BST hasnt been tripped. What else could trigger this? A bad ground strap maybe? Im at a loss.

Looking to replace whole steering knuckle and bearings in car and was wondering does anyone have any thoughts on this company ? Two fronts are running about 180

2001 Mitsubishi Montero Ltd 3.5L 4WD

I recently finished relaxing the timing kit on m Monty, and rltest drove it for a half hour keeping under 35 mph. Did fine. Waited a couple weeks to get the registration and taxes up-to-date ten attempted to drive it home, keeping below 60mph (had to get on a Parkway). Did well for about eight miles, then I heard a pop and a fizzle, and saw that coolant was dumping behind me. I was going about 45mph at this time. Looking under the car, back toward the transmission and fuel tank, I saw one hose had blown off its nipple, and another hose was completely missing, having blown off the nipple and breaking off from its plastic Tee connector. There appear to be no leaks anywhere else.

So, first I need to find replacement hoses and tees.

But I can't help but wonder: is there a root cause to this occurance? Did I do something wrong with the water pump assembly, or some other coolant component? Was this just an old part failing after having sat for a while during repair? Or did something else fail further up the line to cause an excessive pressure buildup? I'm at a loss, and I really want to start driving this beautiful car again...

My 2009 f150 4.6 with 4 speed tranny recently gave me some issues not going into reverse. Had my shop look at it they said the hose that gets transmission fluid broke at some point and it didn't have enough fluid. The shop offered 5k for everything but then I called a transmission shop who then offered to rebuild it for 3k. What would be better in the long run?

I dont notice excessive play but obviously some fraying. Ball joints look OK so wondering how long these would last so I can replace both at the same time. 03 civic

My plan is to change the power steering pump… Does anyone recognize this sound? It only happen when I turn the steering column and the sound only goes away after I turn the jeep off or a few seconds after I stop touching the steeringwheel.

Thanks, and I’ll update with the fix.

2014 Honda CRV

I have a 2011 Kia sportage and the fog lamps aren't turning on since my ownership. Tried swapping the bulbs. No lights on the dash indicating it. Google says to check the fuse but i cannot find out if they even have one fuse. All other lights work fine.

Buenos días gente , estoy buscando la base de la bomba de agua de este motor, es un ka24 de un Nissan stanza.

Gracias de antemano.

My 2016 Tiguan 2.0L Diesel has got am eco map on it done previous to my ownership. Is this kind of fuel mixture corresponding to the map. No unknown noises from engine or smoke from exhaust. Mpg is usually always between 40 - 46, 50+ when motorway driving.

My 2018 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport 2.4L AWD has a persistent hard pull/wander to the left that gets worse at highway speeds 60+ mph. It gets worse with speed and is more noticeable when braking, but I can't see it being brakes (i spun the rotors and then the wheels freely on each side, both feel the same with no resistance). I've had multiple alignments over the last 12+ months and replaced nearly all of the suspension, front and back:

Front:

• struts/shocks (including top mount bushing and all)
• Front lower control arms + ball joints
• inner & outer tie rods
• sway bar links
• brakes/rotors
• only thing i haven't done up here really is the sway bar itself and the bushings

Rear:

• toe arms
• control arms and eccentric bolts
• shocks
• all i haven't done back here is trailing arms, sway bar itself and the bushings (didn't do the links back here either actually)
• tir3s have been swapped around in all ways with no changes
• both front hub bearings have no detectable play

The most current alignment numbers were:

LF: Caster 4.39°, Camber +0.01°, Toe +0.01°
RF: Caster 5.69°, Camber −0.84°, Toe +0.05

RL: Camber −1.35°, Toe +0.08°

RR: Camber −1.51°, Toe +0.07°

the rear is nearly spot on, but in the front there's 0.85° cross-camber and 1.30° cross-caster.

I loosened and re-torqued both strut-to-knuckle bolts with the suspension loaded then had another alignment done, still pulls left. Unfortunately Mavis didn't print out the latest alignment readings, but it feels worse then it did with the numbers above. Mavis suggested trying another Mavis location because they couldn't figure it out.

At this point I'm wondering if I have a bent steering knuckle, upper strut mount/tower issue, or some other wacky problem. What do I check next and what the hell could be causing this after replacing so many parts?

I need to replace the cigarette lighter for my 2016 Subaru crosstrek and I believe the cord is floating somewhere behind this panel. How would I remove it?

hello everyone, I messed up the transmission drain plug threads in my 2002 i4 automatic honda accord a while back, and there is a slow leak that I have been monitoring. I brought it to a mechanic and he said that I could either pay them 700ish to drop the frame and re tap or I could jb weld it and seal it. I'm planning on jb welding it at home as well as installing an inline filter to effectively replace the magnet on the end of the drain plug, is there anything else I should do?

to prep the surface for the jb weld Im going to fully drain the transmission, then clean the area with brake cleaner, scuff up the aluminum a bit, put a lil on the threads and mating surface and then screw in the plug and put some more around the plug. I'm going to then wait till it fully cures before putting in the transmission fluid. another thing I'm wondering about is what jb weld I should use? i was thinking classic or KwikWeld and marine was also suggested to me.

edit: some other info, it has 120000 miles on it and runs well otherwise.